[JRTJH]

If you look at the picture I posted, you'll see a "welded aluminum rafter" that is installed on top of the rear wall studding. There is a "squared off top" on the rear wall framework and the "rounded rafter" sits on top of that. The "curved part" of the rafter is where the aluminum transition molding is attached that joins the TPO and the FILON. If you carefully remove the transition molding you'll see that the TPO is folded over the rafter and the FILON is pressed up against it, sealed with BUTYL tape and the transition molding is then screwed in place to secure the assembly. It's not difficult to remove the aluminum transition molding, clean the surface of the TPO and the FILON, reseal the area and reinstall the transition molding. BE SURE TO USE BUTYL PUTTY TAPE and DICOR !!! DON'T USE ATV or silicone on the roof !!!!!!


Next time you're at your trailer, you'll notice there are only 8 or 10 #2 screws that hold that transition molding in place. They are on the roof, covered with DICOR self-leveling sealant. Just pull that piece off, the rest will "fall into place" once you see how simple the structure really is.

DON'T try to "jamb it back in place" you won't get it properly inserted, you won't be able to seal it and any water will "wick" back up into the joint and you're going to have major problems a couple of years downstream.... Do it right the first time. If you're lucky, you can get it completely disassembled in a couple of hours, then 2 or 3 hours to clean everything up and a couple of hours to reassemble it. Be sure to wipe everything down carefully with alcohol before the final coat of DICOR self-leveling sealant. The, relax, watch the paint dry and enjoy a "cool one"....

ADDED: Chuckster and I were "typing at the same time" again !! LOL