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Old 03-07-2017, 08:52 AM   #17
PARAPTOR
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Western PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
When you get home do the following: get a multi meter and take the plug that plugs into the trailer. Put the common lead of the meter on the ground leg of the 50A plug and the red lead on one of the hot legs as shown in the diagram (one of the plugs on the sides) and see if you have 120V. Do the same for the other hot lead. If you have 120V on each leg THEN start looking for tripped or blown fuses, GFCI plugs etc. No need to start chasing anything until you know you are actually good at the trailer plug.

If everything worked at the trailer when at the dealer, and now it doesn't at your house, logic says it's something in the way it is hooked up. However, if you have the 120v on both legs the trailer is getting what it needs for all of your "stuff" to work, which then points at the distribution panel, fuse, breaker or GFCI circuit. I've not had to pull or work on a ground fault plug in a trailer but in a house you can have outlets wired past the initial plug that will go "dark" if the original GFCI plug is tripped. Good luck and let us know.
Daisy chaining RV outlets off a single GFI, usually in located in the bathroom, is common practice. That GFI protects its own plugs as as well those plugs daisy chained down stream of it (connected to the output terminals of that GFI). A fault in any of these plugs will trip the breaker and open power to all of them. As noted in previous posts(search) it was found that the wires on the identified output terminal were loose or disconnected. If I recall some GFI terminations where push in terminals. Also noted were faulty GFI's. A search of these posts will provide methods used to check these GFI devices.

As noted by many ensuring that both legs in the power distribution panel have power is the place to start.
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