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Wildhorse · 04-02-2016, 04:25 PM

Here is some more general information that I have been unable to find by searching the forum, and thought it might help others as well. I have been identifying and isolating parasitic drains as well as measuring the draws from the various circuits in my trailer to make up a laminated card to be stored in the camper. Most of what I have found online is regarding isolating the batteries for storage, but not cutting down on the drains while boondocking as well. In addition to a battery isolator to kill everything during storage I have put in a switch so that the backup cameras can be turned off when camping. As wired from the factory they are drawing current if the battery isolator switch in closed and the camper is live. Also drawing all the time is the soundbar. I've installed a switch so that I can kill power to it instead of leaving it in STBY. Also noteworthy is the tiny microswitch that powers the TV antenna amplifier. If this is left on the draw is significant, but it is hidden behind the TV. Out of sight out of mind but draining the batteries just the same. I haven't covered everything yet, so I'll add as I nail down the current draws on the rest of the circuits. I got hot today and quit. LOL

Here's what I'll call for lack of a better name the Static State of my Raptor. In the static state the batteries are connected, the refrigerator is on propane and drawing DC to run the control module and fans, and the Jenson control module for the trailer systems is powered on. At this point the trailer is AS Shipped from Keystone. and sitting idle if you will as if camping but not using anything or nobody is at home if you will. In this condition the current draw is 1.59 amps.

By turning off the switches that I installed for the cameras and the soundbar the Static State drops to 1 amp. This is about the best it is going to get while boondocking without killing the carbon monoxide detector and smoke detector.

Draws from circuits...
Soundbar on STBY = .46 amps
Cameras = .13 amps
Hall light switch 1 = .22 amps (light above stairs to bedroom)
Hall light switch 2 = 3.23 amps (Pendent lights over island)

Controlled on Jenson Control Module:
Night lights = 1.1 amps
Main Living lights = 1.47 amps
Indirect lights = 2.34 amps
Light Group 4 = 1.51 amps
Awning Light = 3.37 amps

Front bath:
Fan = 1.9 amps
light = .96 amps

Bedroom lights = 1.32 amps
Bedroom reading lights (both on) = .96 amps

TV Antenna Amp = .4 amps
Pantry light = .4 amps

Again this is a work in progress and there is lots more to check such as the heater, porch lights, garage area, Blue LED lights on front cap, hitch light, etc.

04-02-2016, 04:25 PM	#1
Wildhorse Member Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Bakersfield, CA Posts: 37	Current Draws Raptor 2016 355TS Here is some more general information that I have been unable to find by searching the forum, and thought it might help others as well. I have been identifying and isolating parasitic drains as well as measuring the draws from the various circuits in my trailer to make up a laminated card to be stored in the camper. Most of what I have found online is regarding isolating the batteries for storage, but not cutting down on the drains while boondocking as well. In addition to a battery isolator to kill everything during storage I have put in a switch so that the backup cameras can be turned off when camping. As wired from the factory they are drawing current if the battery isolator switch in closed and the camper is live. Also drawing all the time is the soundbar. I've installed a switch so that I can kill power to it instead of leaving it in STBY. Also noteworthy is the tiny microswitch that powers the TV antenna amplifier. If this is left on the draw is significant, but it is hidden behind the TV. Out of sight out of mind but draining the batteries just the same. I haven't covered everything yet, so I'll add as I nail down the current draws on the rest of the circuits. I got hot today and quit. LOL Here's what I'll call for lack of a better name the Static State of my Raptor. In the static state the batteries are connected, the refrigerator is on propane and drawing DC to run the control module and fans, and the Jenson control module for the trailer systems is powered on. At this point the trailer is AS Shipped from Keystone. and sitting idle if you will as if camping but not using anything or nobody is at home if you will. In this condition the current draw is 1.59 amps. By turning off the switches that I installed for the cameras and the soundbar the Static State drops to 1 amp. This is about the best it is going to get while boondocking without killing the carbon monoxide detector and smoke detector. Draws from circuits... Soundbar on STBY = .46 amps Cameras = .13 amps Hall light switch 1 = .22 amps (light above stairs to bedroom) Hall light switch 2 = 3.23 amps (Pendent lights over island) Controlled on Jenson Control Module: Night lights = 1.1 amps Main Living lights = 1.47 amps Indirect lights = 2.34 amps Light Group 4 = 1.51 amps Awning Light = 3.37 amps Front bath: Fan = 1.9 amps light = .96 amps Bedroom lights = 1.32 amps Bedroom reading lights (both on) = .96 amps TV Antenna Amp = .4 amps Pantry light = .4 amps Again this is a work in progress and there is lots more to check such as the heater, porch lights, garage area, Blue LED lights on front cap, hitch light, etc.