Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortimer
2. I have the trailer plugged into 15A household shore power at my home using an adapter. The water heater will not work. The switch is set to electrical, the water pump switch is on, the propane is off at the tanks. Shouldn't the water heater work on electric only? Or is 15A not enough juice?
3. The main entrance door does not have a catch on either the door or the trailer wall to secure the door in the open position. Shouldn't the door come with a magnetic or manual catch?
4. Not a problem but a question. Can I leave the trailer plugged in 24/7 at home (15A) without it cooking the batts? I know the converter must be an automatic unit, but still... I will have everything turned off, just want to keep the batts up while the trailer is not in use.
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2. Open the outside grill for the water heater. Look at the bottom left for the safety rocker switch. Mine was obscured behind vinyl tape that exactly matched the interior paint, so look closely. It will be upside down. Flip it downwards to enable the heater. This is the switch you flip off when you empty the water heater, so no doofus will accidentally turn it on empty with the inside controls.
3. Many doors now have "friction hinges" that are supposed to stay where you leave them (except in really strong winds). These will not have stay-open latches.
4. Yes. Your converter is built for this. Jut make sure you don't boil off the water in the battery.
(Can't help you with #1, but I would suspect a faulty circuit board / shorted pushbuttons in the display/control panel.)