Quote:
Originally Posted by 1jeep
My truck has a 110volt outlet, if I had to I could connect the trailer to it to get the generator started, that's what I meant. Aside from that doesn't the trailer receive 12 volts from the truck via the trailer cord when the truck is running, everything I had read about my truck gave me the impression it did as long as it was running.
And yes, I have already told everyone it wont be like sleeping in the house.
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Your truck's 110 volt outlet (if you are talking about the one in the dash) is rated at 400 watts (surge) and will not power any "suitable battery charger".... You'd be better off using jumper cables connected to your trailer battery bank and your truck's battery (while the truck is running).
Ideally, just jump start the generator and let the onboard battery charger take care of your "RV battery bank".....
ADDED: I "thought" that in 2016 Ford increased the size of the inverter from 150 watts to 400 watts. Apparently that did not happen and the maximum rating for the "in dash" inverter is 150 watts, making it even less capable of powering an automotive battery charger. The "maximum" amperage output (surge) of the "Ford installed inverter" is 150 watts, at 115 VAC, that's a maximum surge amperage of 1.3 Amps. As an example, my Craftsman 2/10/50 Amp charger input rating is 120 VAC, 2.0 amps at 10 amp setting and 120 VAC, 9.4 amps at 50 amp setting. Far more input power requirement than the Ford inverter is capable of producing.
If you mean to "somehow" plug the trailer's electrical shore power cord into that 110 dash outlet, the input power requirement of the trailer's converter alone (without any other trailer equipment involved) is going to be at least 10 amps (with a depleted RV battery bank), that's 1150 watts. No way your little "in dash inverter" would ever be able to cope with that kind of load.