Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmith0404
I get that, but giving the impression that they will be way heavy and there isn’t anything they can do about it isn’t good either. I’m being realistic. I simply stated what my ACTUAL numbers are with a 5er that has a dry pin weight a couple hundred lbs more than his. Personally, I have quite a bit of stuff packed in mine, I don’t know how I could ever get my payload to 4000 lbs. 23% of my GVWR would give me 300 lbs more than the OP.
However, as I stated, he could possibly get that high, but I also let him know that he may be well below that as well. We don’t always have to be gloom and doom. Someone pointed out worst case scenario, I pointed out it MAY not be that bad. We can speculate high, low, or anywhere in between. He doesn’t have to, he already has the truck and trailer, he can go weigh it.
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It's not "giving the impression" they will be way heavy, it's reality. The dry pin weight alone exceeds the payload of the truck. Ignoring the payload (that little sticker on the door) and worrying only about rawr is not a good choice - especially for someone new to towing - why not forget the rawr and just go straight to tire capacity only and get heavier tires? They CAN do something about it and the OP even listed some options himself - he knows what he's looking at and has done some homework. He said Keystone states the dry pin is 2080 - there is no need to weigh to find that out and it will be way low from a loaded trailer. He's weighed the truck, no guessing there and we know that the gvwr of the truck should be 10k. This isn't "trying" to be realistic, they are
real numbers. You say it might not be "that" bad but how much is "that" bad? He will be over payload by several hundred pounds, to me that's bad...and unsafe.
OP, first welcome to the forum! You asked a question about a topic that generates a lot of conversation. You asked some specific questions that really only you can answer, primarily because some of them involve spending money and only you know how that will work for you.
Changing the combo would be in order IMO. Is the truck just what you want and a 1 ton just not right for you? There's your answer. Does the RV have everything you want and you just wouldn't be happy with anything else? There would be your answer as well. The option that doesn't seem logical is selling it all and worrying about different things. You obviously bought this combo because you want to get into RVing. Everyone has their own ideas of what "RVing" should be but IMO it's something you should do if you're inclined - it's a lot of fun.
The last thing I would do is ignore the stated payload and figure it's OK to run hundreds of lbs. over. Lots of reasons not to for the safety of you, your family and others along with possible legalities. Having driven over payload knowingly I can assure you that it is one of those things you will worry about every time you get ready for a trip and every mile of the trip. Trying to take out everything before a trip and carry the bare essentials, not able to carry the "fun" stuff, gets really old really fast....and takes the joy out of RVing. Combine that with the possible loss of control due to being overweight, and staring into a 400' abyss, makes one want to take the safe route.
Those "commercial" drivers? They come in all kinds of truck; many use 3/4 ton trucks and at times are very overloaded. I always figured it was because one day they may be hauling a 6k bumper pull and tomorrow a 14k 5th wheel so try to meet the bare minimum. Virtually all are empty. Because you see someone do it doesn't mean they are doing it properly.
Lots of commentary and opinions - you will get all kinds of viewpoints. Ask away and I have no doubt others will share their thoughts - and good luck on getting the right combo for you and yours.