Quote:
Originally Posted by KRumm
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Your worry about the "other end of the negative cable falling down and contacting the frame somewhere" is not anything to be concerned about. The "other end" of that cable is already screwed to the frame, making contact, so if the "battery end that was disconnected happens to touch the frame, it's already bolted to it anyway....
You're correct in being concerned if you disconnect the POSITIVE battery cable and have the trailer plugged into shore power. The converter battery charging circuit will provide power to the positive side of the battery wiring, rendering that cable "hot". Should it touch the frame, it would cause a "direct short to ground" from the converter to the positive battery cable.
Your 30 amp fuse terminal may be too small for the trailer battery. There are some (many) trailers that require up to 50-80 amps to power the hydraulic pump, the leveling system and the slides. In most Keystone trailers produced since about 2010, the WFCO converters used are rated at 55 amps. Theoretically, "normal operation of the converter/charger" could apply up to 55 amps of DC power directly to the battery terminals. Additionally, the "other end of that white (in older trailers) or red (in newer trailers) positive battery cable goes directly to a 40 amp or a 30 amp DC circuit breaker. So essentially, you're "fusing both ends of a wire" with installation of that terminal fuse block.
ADDED: I see (after posting the comment about the 30 amp fuse terminal) that it is actually a 300 amp fuse terminal. That is a "marine device" intended to prevent "meltdown of battery cables" in the event of a wet/shorted marine engine starter. It would serve no purpose in the RV environment since the other end of that cable is already fused at 30 or 40 amps in most trailers.