Thread: Dometic AC Unit
View Single Post
Old 01-12-2021, 08:24 AM   #31
flybouy
Site Team
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,714
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredgeorge View Post
If someone is uncomfortable with soldering copper tubing, then a saddle valve will work without soldering. It basically clamps around the tubing and penetrates it and adds a service port to the system. This is the service port saddle valve shown in the video:
https://www.amazon.com/TJ90BPV31-GEN...18da41b18feae6


Personally I would not go with a saddle valve if I were planning on keeping the unit for any length of time. IMHO you're just adding another leak. If your goal is to sell it (depending on your morales there, I wouldn't do this myself), or just "get thru the season" until you either fix or replace it then maybe.

My thoughts are that if the unit is low on refrigerant then it has a leak. To fix a leak you need to repair the source of the leak, replace the receiver dryer, vacuum down the system and then charge with the proper refrigerant including the proper oil charge if the system requires it. Doing that work would call for the equipment and knowledge to weld the lines so insert T and install service ports on the high and low pressure side.

RV a/c units are nothing more than a window air conditioner and are disposable IMO. If there's a leak in the coils chances are you won't be able to get to it to repair and a replacement coil won't be available because it just isn't economically feasible for a repair company to charge the necessary labor.

Bottom line, recharging the a/c doesn't fix the leak, it just kicks the can down the road.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
flybouy is offline   Reply With Quote