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Old 02-28-2012, 06:58 PM   #5
turbopilot51
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: WA State
Posts: 250
Quote:
Originally Posted by geo View Post
Turbopilot51 -

Definitely! I had to use a couple of 3' lengths (or maybe about a meter length) of dowel or PVC to manuever the shore power cable and to move the duct pipe. The power cable was pressing more than half way into the flexile duct pipe. This is an insulated duct, so I would guess that the inner duct was probably just about closed. Once I moved the power line over (also arranged it from above reaching around the transfer switch) and got the U-turn of the duct "softened", I could feel very warm air coming from the rear heat vent. BIG difference.

When I replace the Iota transfer switch, I plan to move that shore power cable even more out of the way and get it totally away from the duct. In fact, I think most of the slack that is in the basement will be taken out by the re-routing of the power cable needed to come into the top of the new Surge Protector ATS. I can then reach back with my meter stick and round out the U-turn of the duct and probably even get a little more heated air flowing aft. I also know that another forum member, travelbugger, said that she discovered that the duct was somewhat constricted on a hanger back in the aft area. But I would recommend just taking off the storage basement wall panel right behind the WaterWorks, get the flashlight and lay down in the storage basement, and take a long peek through the lower basement area. It's easier. Even though we have different models, I bet there will be some similarities.

I also got the vents with the damper from CW for the bath and bedroom. That is a very short run from the furnace to the bed and bath, so even if it is through a smaller duct, there is less overall resistance.

And let us know what you find!

Ron
Thanks for the information. I will do some investigating and let you know what I find.
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