50 Amp Cord

[UTRod]

Does anyone have a good site for purchasing a 50 amp 100ft cord? Wanting to buy a 100ft cord right now so that I can supply power to trailer while it is parked at my house.

Thanks
Chris

[UTRod]

I didn't describe what I was wanting to do very well I want to be able to full power my trailer so that I can use it for a place for over night guest if need be are to just get ready to go for a trip I found a cord online for around $600 didn't know if anyone else might have suggestions on a place to look for a 50 amp 100 ft cord.

[Bob Landry]

Standard size wire for 50A is #6. #12 is only rated for 20A. Anyone who says they have been good with #12 on a 50A circuit has been very lucky that they haven't started a fire. You would have to do some careful energy management to do it with #12, especially at 100'. Even at maintaining the load at 20A, I would go a size larger at that distance.

[smiller]

I've done 20 amps at 100' with 10-gauge and voltage drop was acceptable, don't think I go with any lighter gauge though. 20 amps @ 240 is probably plenty for most uses, as long as you don't have any excessive A/C or heating loads.

[mikell]

I would run underground wire to a 50 amp plug that cost $30 give or take. I would think $150 should handle it

[JRTJH]

I'd suggest the following:

Southwire 14782702 UF-B Underground Feeder Cable, 6/3 AWG, 125 ft $286
part number 14-50R. (50 Amp Female Plug) $28
10 sticks of 1" gray conduit $20
Appropriate size gray plastic box to house plug $8
50Amp 220V circuit breaker (to fit your box) $15
6' 4x4 pressure treated post $10

Hire an electrician if you're not handy doing the wiring, but you can easily dig a trench, run the cable through the conduit (run each 10' piece, then glue them together after the wire is in each piece), install the plug in an appropriate box on a 4x4 pole next to your RV, If you already have a 50 AMP outlet outside, you can just wire the new cable into that outlet and not have to go to the circuit breaker panel in the house.

then you can plug in without having an extension cord run across the top of the ground. You'll find that over the summer, having to move that monster to mow, or worse yet, possibly driving over it and damaging it just isn't worth the hassle.

The materials to do it permanently will run about 1/3 less than buying an extension cord. And, if you've never moved a 50 amp cord that's 100' long, you might want to buy a tractor to pull it out to the RV (not really that bad, but it is heavy)

Once you have the wiring permanently installed, you're golden and won't need to mess around with extension cords.

Just one guy's opinion, others may differ.

[dbrinklow]

If you want a true 50 amp supply for the TT this requires a 4 wire connection. 2 hots a neutral and a ground.

Use this only if the TT is designed for a 50 amp feed. Otherwise wire for a 30 amp feed with 3 wire configuration.

[rhagfo]

Do you have any idea what 100' of 50 amp cable would weigh!!! I like JRTJH suggestion to place a permanent feeder box is far better than an extension cord.

[byrdr1]

I'd suggest the following:

Southwire 14782702 UF-B Underground Feeder Cable, 6/3 AWG, 125 ft $286
part number 14-50R. (50 Amp Female Plug) $28
10 sticks of 1" gray conduit $20
Appropriate size gray plastic box to house plug $8
50Amp 220V circuit breaker (to fit your box) $15
6' 4x4 pressure treated post $10

Hire an electrician if you're not handy doing the wiring, but you can easily dig a trench, run the cable through the conduit (run each 10' piece, then glue them together after the wire is in each piece), install the plug in an appropriate box on a 4x4 pole next to your RV, If you already have a 50 AMP outlet outside, you can just wire the new cable into that outlet and not have to go to the circuit breaker panel in the house.

then you can plug in without having an extension cord run across the top of the ground. You'll find that over the summer, having to move that monster to mow, or worse yet, possibly driving over it and damaging it just isn't worth the hassle.

The materials to do it permanently will run about 1/3 less than buying an extension cord. And, if you've never moved a 50 amp cord that's 100' long, you might want to buy a tractor to pull it out to the RV (not really that bad, but it is heavy)

Once you have the wiring permanently installed, you're golden and won't need to mess around with extension cords.

Just one guy's opinion, others may differ.
i like this option best. I have a 30amp wired since the popup days. I use one of the marinco 30 amp cords with a built in male 50A end. It goes straight on the 50a end of the camper and plugs straight into the 30a box on the house. One day I may upgrade the house plug but this set up works for all my household needs. Plus it keeps my 30ft 50a cord nice and safe in the camper.
(of subject)I did buy the 90 degree angle 50a cord set for my Christmas present from my grandson. He gives great presents to paw-paw..
but unless you are running more than one ac or one heater the 30 amp will work for most things.
JMHO
randy

[SAD]

I'd suggest the following:

Southwire 14782702 UF-B Underground Feeder Cable, 6/3 AWG, 125 ft $286
part number 14-50R. (50 Amp Female Plug) $28
10 sticks of 1" gray conduit $20
Appropriate size gray plastic box to house plug $8
50Amp 220V circuit breaker (to fit your box) $15
6' 4x4 pressure treated post $10

Hire an electrician if you're not handy doing the wiring, but you can easily dig a trench, run the cable through the conduit (run each 10' piece, then glue them together after the wire is in each piece), install the plug in an appropriate box on a 4x4 pole next to your RV, If you already have a 50 AMP outlet outside, you can just wire the new cable into that outlet and not have to go to the circuit breaker panel in the house.

then you can plug in without having an extension cord run across the top of the ground. You'll find that over the summer, having to move that monster to mow, or worse yet, possibly driving over it and damaging it just isn't worth the hassle.

The materials to do it permanently will run about 1/3 less than buying an extension cord. And, if you've never moved a 50 amp cord that's 100' long, you might want to buy a tractor to pull it out to the RV (not really that bad, but it is heavy)

Once you have the wiring permanently installed, you're golden and won't need to mess around with extension cords.

Just one guy's opinion, others may differ.

Best idea. Rated for the service (if needed). Is only heavy one time (when installed). And doesn't have to be put away (like when mowing!).

[gduff]

A few years ago we decided to make our own RV site at home as we live out in the country. I hired most of the Landscaping out (Dozer, Excavator). We did not pave the site, just stone. We have water, sewer, satellite TV and 50 amp electric. At the time our camper was 30a but I decided to run 50a in case we ever traded up. We recently purchased a 2013 Montana so I am glad I did that. The trench is about 150' from the source and I ran 4-3 and grounded at the hook-up box with the typical 8' brass rod. I purchased a 50 amp RV box from a supplier for RV parks. Also have a separate grounded 50 amp box at the source from the house. I also ran the direct TV cables in a separate conduit to eliminate any electrical interference. We even get Wi-Fi from our home network as we are close enough to the S&B. I am able to run everything without any problems. In the summer we pretty much “full-time" in the back 40 when we are not traveling. We are very happy with the results.

[nuskovich]

Installing the 50 amp service plug with underground wiring is the way to go...an 85 pound 50 amp cord is not something you want to lug around.

[tanman32225]

Dbrinklow is right.. Listen close he is right... Use a 4 wire conductor to a remote pole like an underground feed. That extra wire is your safety net to keep you from getting fried.
As an added measure I would put i a ground rod with a hard copper wire to ground at the remote pole.

And I agree I would go with a UF (underground Feed) instead of a long long camper cable. It would be a monster to try to carry that chunk of wire also.

[JRTJH]

Dbrinklow is right.. Listen close he is right... Use a 4 wire conductor to a remote pole like an underground feed. That extra wire is your safety net to keep you from getting fried.
As an added measure I would put i a ground rod with a hard copper wire to ground at the remote pole.

And I agree I would go with a UF (underground Feed) instead of a long long camper cable. It would be a monster to try to carry that chunk of wire also.

There may be some confusion on how AGW is configured.

Southwire 14782702 UF-B Underground Feeder Cable, 6/3 AWG is a 4 wire cable. There are two hot wires, a return neutral and a ground wire.

AGW standards list the gage of the wire and the number of conductors in the sheath... ie: 6/2 AGW is 6 gage wire, two conductors and a ground and 6/3 AGW is 6 gage wire, three conductors and a ground.

All romex cable has been identified "with ground" for some time now.

The wire brand and part number listed in my post is a certified UNDERGROUND cable (can be used without conduit) which has two hot leads, a return (neutral) lead and a ground wire. It is certified to be buried underground without conduit in a two hot lead system (240VAC circuit) and is commonly used to wire 50 AMP RV circuits. The ground rod you recommend is not a "bad idea" but is not required by any electrical code that I am aware of (if the proper cable is used).

[tanman32225]

There may be some confusion on how AGW is configured.

Southwire 14782702 UF-B Underground Feeder Cable, 6/3 AWG is a 4 wire cable. There are two hot wires, a return neutral and a ground wire.

AGW standards list the gage of the wire and the number of conductors in the sheath... ie: 6/2 AGW is 6 gage wire, two conductors and a ground and 6/3 AGW is 6 gage wire, three conductors and a ground.

All romex cable has been identified "with ground" for some time now.

The wire brand and part number listed in my post is a certified UNDERGROUND cable (can be used without conduit) which has two hot leads, a return (neutral) lead and a ground wire. It is certified to be buried underground without conduit in a two hot lead system (240VAC circuit) and is commonly used to wire 50 AMP RV circuits. The ground rod you recommend is not a "bad idea" but is not required by any electrical code that I am aware of (if the proper cable is used).

Exactly. thanks for any clarification.

[wmcclay]

I would go with direct burial, but at 100 foot plus risers = 110 ft I would use #4 wire so you do not get a voltage drop at full load. While you have the trench open I would throw in a water line and a second wire for a 110 volt outlet. When I put mine in I also put in telephone and cable.

Good luck

[mhs4771]

If you put in the water line you could put a self draining hydrant at the post, then you wouldn't have to worry about freezing if not in use.

[wmcclay]

Being I am from central California, all this talk abount freezing makes me cold. We are going to the coast this weekend, the weather is supposed to be in the 50s. We camp all year around, the down side is I live in California with all of its crazyness.

Wayne

[JRTJH]

I would go with direct burial, but at 100 foot plus risers = 110 ft I would use #4 wire so you do not get a voltage drop at full load. While you have the trench open I would throw in a water line and a second wire for a 110 volt outlet. When I put mine in I also put in telephone and cable.

Good luck

Using the calculated voltage drop, here's the actual figures:

6/3 AGW wire, at 125 ft distance carrying a total 50 Amp load with an input voltage of 120 VAC single phase would deliver (at the terminal plug) 114.992 volts AC. the total voltage drop would be 5.078 volts (well within the acceptable range for RV use)

4/3 AGW at the same distance carrying the same load would provide 116.807 volts with a total voltage drop of 3.192 volts.

While there would be less heat generated by using 4 gage wire, the voltage drop with either configuration would have no effect on operation of a 50 Amp RV at full capacity.

The cost of TC-ER 4/3 Underground Tray Cable is $6.09 per foot, so 125 ft would cost $761.00 plus shipping. That's a far cry from the $286 for 6/3 AWG UF cable.

For the money, and the operational voltage delivered, I'd seriously question if the upgrade to 4 gage would offset the cost.

[wmcclay]

The previous poster is correct, I tend to overbuild as almost everyone tends to add this or that. Hey I have power out there I can use it for this. Or I am not happy with the fabric cover and I want to build a shed, now I need lights, etc, etc. So I overbuild, at 700.00 to 800.00 I would consider both options, both direct burial and conduit and multi rated wire. That price seems a little steep, but I buy wire in the 1000 foot rolls. What ever you do do it once and at least code so you do not have problems later.

Wayne

[John Shaw]

I've never heard of AGW. I actually think you are talking about AWG which stands for American Wire Gauge.

Also the one post talked about running three wires and driving a ground rod at the outlet. You can only do that if you put a disconnect there and reestablish ground and bond the neutral to the ground. The NEC is very specific in stating the earth shall not be the sole means of equipment ground.

[LHaven]

[Edit: The post this replies to is no longer there. I guess the mods agreed it was spam and removed it.]

There are so many gotchas in this post.

The link isn't to Amazon. The product at the link doesn't have a twist-lock connector, at least not as pictured. Its gauge is 6/8, not 12 (which would be vastly undersized). The manufacturer rates it at 50A not 15, which would be ludicrous for a "50 amp cord." The "100ft extension cord" sold there is really a three-pack of their 36ft cord.

"so you can plug into any standard outlet without worrying about whether it's female or male" makes zero sense. Neither does "you can leave it outside all year long. This will help prevent corrosion and rusting of the metal parts in the weather." (Leaving it inside would always be better than outside.)

Finally, the wattage math is wrong, as a 50A cord carries 240V (2 circuits x 120V), but wattage isn't a useful parameter for a trailer anyway.

Add to all this the observation that it's the poster's first post, and my conclusion is: spam.

[wiredgeorge]

"so you can plug into any standard outlet without worrying about whether it's female or male" makes zero sense. Neither does "you can leave it outside all year long. This will help prevent corrosion and rusting of the metal parts in the weather." (Leaving it inside would always be better than outside.)

I can't answer this question because I am not a biologist. :lol:

[Carl n Susan]

This is a 10 year old post.

[solv3nt]

Using the calculated voltage drop, here's the actual figures:

6/3 AGW wire, at 125 ft distance carrying a total 50 Amp load with an input voltage of 120 VAC single phase would deliver (at the terminal plug) 114.992 volts AC. the total voltage drop would be 5.078 volts (well within the acceptable range for RV use)

4/3 AGW at the same distance carrying the same load would provide 116.807 volts with a total voltage drop of 3.192 volts.


Industry design standard is 5% drop from the service entrance, which includes the 2% from service to the panel and 3% for the feeder. If you're pulling from the panel, which is also the service, then you're probably ok using the whole 5% on the run.

That said, voltage drop fries motors. Motors are typically rated at 115v and the service is likely closer to 130v.

I believe the 50A plugs are 240v, not 120, so you're even better off there. That said, southwire has an online calculator that you can use.

[markcee]

This is a 10 year old post.

Yeah! Was wondering about that myself. LHaven bored and doing a late night forum archive deep dive!

[LHaven]

This is a 10 year old post.

Actually, the post to which I was replying was made just yesterday. Looks like the mods agreed it was advertising spam and removed it. You probably never saw it.

[markcee]

Actually, the post to which I was replying was made just yesterday. Looks like the mods agreed it was advertising spam and removed it. You probably never saw it.

Yep, must be right. I was wondering about the links you mentioned.

[flybouy]

Industry design standard is 5% drop from the service entrance, which includes the 2% from service to the panel and 3% for the feeder. If you're pulling from the panel, which is also the service, then you're probably ok using the whole 5% on the run.

That said, voltage drop fries motors. Motors are typically rated at 115v and the service is likely closer to 130v.

I believe the 50A plugs are 240v, not 120, so you're even better off there. That said, southwire has an online calculator that you can use.

Just to clarify, the 50 amp rv service is 2 lines of 120 vac each. You can use both lines to get 240 vac but nothing in a Keystone trailer is wired for 240 v that I'm aware of.