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davidjsimons
12-01-2012, 05:25 AM
I am towing a Cougar 28RBS. The tongue weight of the trailer is listed at just over 900 lbs. My truck is a 2012 Ram 3500 with dual rear wheels and also equipped with air bags. The hitch on the truck is a DMI Quic n' Easy, with a tongue weight rating of 1400 lbs. I really feel that the WDH is unnecessary and I am really just asking for some experienced opinions. I regularly tow loads grossing over 30,000 lbs with this truck with no use of any type of WDH. Any thoughts?http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/01/tusu7y9y.jpg This is my old dually with the regular load that I tow.


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KenBob
12-01-2012, 06:44 AM
Weigh the RV's tongue weight fully loaded, ready to go. Consider cargo in the bed of the truck that would be behind the rear axle as added to tongue weight. Then figure your actual tongue weight. WD hitch may not be "needed" but distrubuting some of the RV weight to the front of the TV wouldn't hurt either.

You can't compare an RV to the 30k trailer as they are designed for different purposes. The 30k trailer is designed to have the majority of the load over the axles and those massive tires. Tonque weight is likely not changing much.

Badboy
12-01-2012, 07:43 AM
I would not think of pulling a TT without a W/D hitch i would not core how big my truck was.:(

2011 keystone
12-01-2012, 08:43 AM
I cant answer your question about the wdh. But WOW that trailer is awsome. What is it used for?

JRTJH
12-01-2012, 08:54 AM
According to the Dodge Towing Guide, the requirement for towing a Class IV trailer does include a weight distribution hitch. So, Dodge is saying yes, you need to use a WD hitch

12,000-pound maximum
Largest travel trailers made for recreation
Weight-distributing hitch is required; as indicated by each weight classification, there are three types of hitches that are required


You can find the actual page here: http://www.dodge.com/towing/D/basics/trailer_weight_class.html

Additionally, I checked the online owners manual for the hitch and it states to use weight distribution when appropriate for the load. Since the trailer and truck manufacturers call for it, then even though the truck supports the weight without a WD hitch, even the hitch manufacturer states to use WD.

And.... a couple other comments:
how else are you going to mechanically connect any sway control devices?
Have you found a ball carrier rated for 1400 lbs hitch weight/14000 lbs trailer weight rated for use without WD? I can only find a carrier rated to 10K.

davidjsimons
12-01-2012, 09:02 AM
The hitch on my truck is not the factory class IV hitch. It is a 14,000 lb. DMI with a tongue rating of 1400 lbs. I just went up the road without it to see the difference and I will say that my truck rode 100% better without it.


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davidjsimons
12-01-2012, 09:07 AM
I cant answer your question about the wdh. But WOW that trailer is awsome. What is it used for?

That trailer is a manure spreader. It will hold 30 tons per load. The machine is very well balanced but it is still WAY heavier on the tongue than my TT. It is the reason for the airbags on the dually.


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davidjsimons
12-01-2012, 09:35 AM
According to the Dodge Towing Guide, the requirement for towing a Class IV trailer does include a weight distribution hitch. So, Dodge is saying yes, you need to use a WD hitch

12,000-pound maximum
Largest travel trailers made for recreation
Weight-distributing hitch is required; as indicated by each weight classification, there are three types of hitches that are required


You can find the actual page here: http://www.dodge.com/towing/D/basics/trailer_weight_class.html

Additionally, I checked the online owners manual for the hitch and it states to use weight distribution when appropriate for the load. Since the trailer and truck manufacturers call for it, then even though the truck supports the weight without a WD hitch, even the hitch manufacturer states to use WD.

And.... a couple other comments:
how else are you going to mechanically connect any sway control devices?
Have you found a ball carrier rated for 1400 lbs hitch weight/14000 lbs trailer weight rated for use without WD? I can only find a carrier rated to 10K.

When pulling those types of heavy loads, I use a solid drawbar and a straight pin, not a ball carrier. With that particular piece of equipment, there is so much rubber on the ground, you can not make it sway, in fact it is hard to actually turn it around on concrete or asphalt.
I went to the hitch site but I didn't see anything that would give me any indications that the 1400 lb tongue rating was for a WDH.
I am going to go ahead and make that all time crazy statement though, in reference to the manure spreader, I've towed it countless times over the past ten years with that same set up and have never had an issue. And to top it off, it has no brakes! Everything is on the truck and the driver.
But back to my original question, we are only talking about 900 lbs of tongue weight and only 6500 lbs of trailer, of course, I understand that those are empty numbers. I guess it comes down to a point of with what you are comfortable.
I appreciate the input. I may just go ahead and use them, I already have them.


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a1albert
12-01-2012, 12:42 PM
Towing on the farm and towing at 65mph down the road are two differant stories. You may not need a WDH but you may need some kind of sway control unless your familey is not with you.

Albert

Javi
12-01-2012, 01:06 PM
Class IV
Class IV hitches are weight carrying (WC) and weight distributing (WD) hitches depending on the vehicle and hitch specifications.
Not all Class IV hitches are rated to be both. See the specific hitch for that information.
Class IV hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1000 lbs.
Class IV hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 14,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1400 lbs.
A Class IV hitch usually has a 2" square receiver opening.
A higher class drawbar does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch. To use this class of hitch for weight distribution requires a weight distribution system.
Class IV hitches attach to the vehicle frame only.

davidjsimons
12-01-2012, 02:06 PM
I'm not talking about towing on a farm. I pull that rig 45-50 mph on the highway. My reference to the drawbar was to illustrate the fact that a ball coupler was not in use. I would be petrified of that load on a ball mount. I guess in the end, as I stated, I may go ahead and use the WDH for the TT just for the sake of already having it. I'm new to the TT but I've got a pretty firm handle on how to move the heavy equipment.


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Bob Landry
12-01-2012, 02:27 PM
If the front end of the truck does not stay at the unhitched height when you hitch the trailer, then you need W/D. You are likely going to need sway control and it's going to be hard to hook that up without a WD hitch. If you don't need W/D you can adjust it for zero weight transfer, but I think even on a 1 ton truck, you're likely to see some rise in the front end. If you use any kind of suspension support, that will transfer some weight back to the front axle, but it doesn't change any of the ratings on the truck.

davidjsimons
12-01-2012, 02:34 PM
The answer to that question is no, my front end does not rise at all. The wheelbase is 169", so there is a lot of leverage. The rear only drops about an inch or an inch and a half.


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f6bits
12-01-2012, 02:35 PM
I couldn’t find a spec on the DMI site, either, for WDH, but Javi’s description sure leans toward needing one.

And I agree with a1albert that you’ll *still* need sway control, which you get with many WDH setups.

I’d get one because 1) it does give you better load balancing, even if you’re well within your GAWRs, and 2) for the sway control.

Bob Landry
12-01-2012, 02:39 PM
The answer to that question is no, my front end does not rise at all. The wheelbase is 169", so there is a lot of leverage. The rear only drops about an inch or an inch and a half.


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Then you are good as far as weight transfer, as the squat in the rear is a non-issue. A lot of people sweat the amount of drop in the back, but the current thought is to get the front right and let the back take care of itself. The only question now is, are you within the receiver ratings by not using WD. if not then you may need it anyway.

davidjsimons
12-01-2012, 02:41 PM
Can the sway control be used while backing? I have one with my WDH but was told that it had to be removed before making any sharp turns or while backing. I've never used it.


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rrohrer
12-01-2012, 02:47 PM
i usually remove my sway control to back up.

Javi
12-01-2012, 02:57 PM
According to the DMI web site the hitch is a class IV which give a max of 1K weight bearing for tongue weight..

They do offer a class V hitch but it is not the Quick & easy hitch.. It also has a 2 1/2" reciever... while the Q&E has a 2"...

For what it's worth I would never even consider pulling a tongue pull travel trailer weighing over 5K without a W/D and a sway control of some sort, even with the Class V hitch I have on my truck...

f6bits
12-01-2012, 03:39 PM
My Equalizer WDH doesn't require removal for backing up or sharp turns.

Can the sway control be used while backing? I have one with my WDH but was told that it had to be removed before making any sharp turns or while backing. I've never used it.


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Georgia Rambler
12-01-2012, 03:49 PM
I had an Equalizer Hitch on my previous TT and it worked really well. I never had to remove it to back up or turn.

davidjsimons
12-01-2012, 03:56 PM
I would probably not consider it either with a 3/4 SRW pickup. The backing question was about the sway controller added to the hitch. Thanks for all of the advice and varying opinions. As stated, being that I already have it, I will most likely continue to use it.


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Javi
12-01-2012, 07:56 PM
I generally stop and pull my friction sway control off before I back int a tight spot, if I don't need to make a hard angle with the trailer I don't worry about it.. The problem happens when you back at an angle that bottoms out the sway bar and bend it..

As for the SWR 3/4 ton vs a dually 1 ton... it isn't the truck thats the problem it is the hitch itself... a class IV just isn't designed for more than 1K tongue weight without the W/D... I used to be in the Ag business and used 1 ton trucks to haul equipment... and the air bags do help with the sag but the load is still on the hitch... the W/D spreads it out to the truck and trailer.. Travel trailers don't balance and tow like them manure trailers... :D

davidjsimons
12-02-2012, 03:50 AM
I appreciate the input and that answers my question on the sway controller. I've just never had sway issues except for when there wasn't enough tongue weight with a loads. I am guess that this concern about sway control has more to do with wind?


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Javi
12-02-2012, 05:49 AM
I appreciate the input and that answers my question on the sway controller. I've just never had sway issues except for when there wasn't enough tongue weight with a loads. I am guess that this concern about sway control has more to do with wind?


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Yes with a properly setup trailer the wind and the bow wave of passing trucks are the major cause of sway.

Good luck and safe travels...

JRTJH
12-02-2012, 06:52 AM
I appreciate the input and that answers my question on the sway controller. I've just never had sway issues except for when there wasn't enough tongue weight with a loads. I am guess that this concern about sway control has more to do with wind?


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David, Your experience with the manure spreader and sway is very much different than you'll have with a flat wall travel trailer. The manure spreader sits lower, has convaluted sides that deflect the wind away from the trailer. Plus, at the weights you say it hauls, there's not much wind below hurricane force that will affect it. Travel trailers, on the othe hand, are much lighter, have a very large flat side area that acts as a sail and catches the side wind far too easily. This large flat area can (and will) whip a 30+ ft travel trailer all over the road. Also, the bow wave of passing 18wheelers will push the trailerr away from the passing truck, but the vaccuum behind that same 18wheeler will pull it back toward it, so when you're passed by a large truck you'll get a "double whammy" which can be enough force to cause you to move half a lane or more. Add a wet, slippery road and you could be in for a disaster waiting to happen.

Sway control devices help to minimize that "pushme-pullyou" effect and can help to keep the flatwalled RV tracking in line behind your truck. Granted, you have a large, fairly stabile platform with a hitch that should tow your RV without the need for WD help, but sway is something you're going to fight with on the road. Every time you tow, you'll be subjected to being whipped around either by side winds or buffetted by passing trucks.

I think you've come to the conclusion that since you have a WD system already, it's not going to cost you anything to just go ahead and use it. I think you'll find that to be the right choice and I'm sure that others will agree.

davidjsimons
12-02-2012, 07:02 AM
I understand now, it is not the weight but the lack there of that is the problem with sway. I once had an enclosed car trailer that did not like passing or being passed by empty car carriers. A larger, triple axle enclosed trailer cured that problem. Again, more rubber on the ground and more weight was the fix I suppose.
I wish that I had seen the Andersen No Sway system before my dealer sold me the Reese.

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