303TG Winterize

[tribalsimba]

I watched the Keystone RV Winterize Video.
I know the bypass valves are accessible when you remove the lower kitchen drawer behind the sink.
I know that there is an area in the front storage; on the drivers side, where there are hoses and such for the fresh water tank, and the city water lines.

What I don't know; is how to access the water pump, so I can suck RV antifreeze directly into the lines. If doing the antifreeze method, do you have to blow out the lines with air first?

Has anyone just blowed the lines out before? If so, how do you ensure the fresh tank pump is blowed out?

I hope to compile a much more detailed winterize prodecure specifically for the 291/303TG.

[SteveC7010]

Drain the fresh water tank completely. What little water is in the line between the tank and the pump won't matter and it will mostly dissipate before winter.

You will have to locate your pump. It is likely behind a removable panel or drawer.

It's not necessary to blow out the lines before pumping in the antifreeze as long as you get strong pink at every faucet, toilet, etc.

Some folks will winterize with just blowing out the lines. It takes some experience doing it to be sure you get it right. The little valve that controls the toilet flow is especially vulnerable to freeze damage and it's easy to leave just enough water in there to break it.

Don't forget to drain the water heater.

All the waste tanks should be drained completely and a little pink tossed in each to lay against the valves.

Remember that freezing water breaks things when it has no place to expand into. A little water on the floor of the fresh water tank won't matter because it has plenty of expansion space.

[audio1der]

That's so much to remember AND get 100% right every year. I only know how to pay the dealer $80 to do it, and if they mess up, they fix it.
I figure I can pay them to winterize it every year and it will still cost less than one major repair, never mind the time.
My $.02

[AlCorr]

The little valve that controls the toilet flow is especially vulnerable to freeze damage and it's easy to leave just enough water in there to break it.

After I complete my winterizing, I leave all the faucets open, also the toilet. I'll put something heavy on the peddle or wedge it down.

Also, remove the outside and inside shower hoses and hang them in the shower to drain all winter.

[DTJ9610]

1) Empty the Water heater & leave unplugged
2) Empty the 2 low point drains on the passenger side and the fresh water on the driver’s side.
3) Switch the water heater by pass (located behind the panel under the sink)
4) Engage the bypass to the fresh water tank to allow for the hose to pull in the antifreeze with the pump (located in the pass through on the driver's side behind the wood panel)
5) Place the hose in the antifreeze and turn on the water pump inside the camper
6) Run it through every faucet (both hot & cold) - Kitchen sink, bathroom sink, bathtub and shower head (or at least disconnect the shower head to let drain out), toilet (leave some in the bowl to keep seal moist), outside sink, outside shower, and last don't forget the black tank flush (I used 2 pipe fittings to take the outside shower hose and connect it and run the antifreeze through that way - watch under the sink to ensure you get some in and also that there is nothing leaking out. for some reason I always get some under the bathroom sink).

I think that's about it.

[ams]

1) Empty the Water heater & leave unplugged
2) Empty the 2 low point drains on the passenger side and the fresh water on the driver’s side.
3) Switch the water heater by pass (located behind the panel under the sink)
4) Engage the bypass to the fresh water tank to allow for the hose to pull in the antifreeze with the pump (located in the pass through on the driver's side behind the wood panel)
5) Place the hose in the antifreeze and turn on the water pump inside the camper
6) Run it through every faucet (both hot & cold) - Kitchen sink, bathroom sink, bathtub and shower head (or at least disconnect the shower head to let drain out), toilet (leave some in the bowl to keep seal moist), outside sink, outside shower, and last don't forget the black tank flush (I used 2 pipe fittings to take the outside shower hose and connect it and run the antifreeze through that way - watch under the sink to ensure you get some in and also that there is nothing leaking out. for some reason I always get some under the bathroom sink).

I think that's about it.

Is the outside shower not on the opposite side? I am doing mine soon & never thought about the black flush, thanks. Could you connect to the outside sink??? I have a hose for filling the ice maker I mount on the bumper.

[SLIMSHADIE]

On my 291 tg the outside shower is right next to the blank tank flush. I bought a 3/4 mip x 1/2 mip fitting to replace the shower head and connect to the blank tank flush. Presto pumping antifreeze into the black tank flush line. As this was mentioned earlier. "bouncey:

[parkgirl]

We bought an antifreeze hand-pump (inexpensive at our RV dealer) to do our black tank flush. Very easy, works great and then we also used it to put a shot in the city water inlet. (This was advised instead of pressing on that valve till antifreeze shoots out which some other videos suggest doing. Keystone says touching that valve may cause problems later with leaks.)

[JRTJH]

We bought an antifreeze hand-pump (inexpensive at our RV dealer) to do our black tank flush. Very easy, works great and then we also used it to put a shot in the city water inlet. (This was advised instead of pressing on that valve till antifreeze shoots out which some other videos suggest doing. Keystone says touching that valve may cause problems later with leaks.)

There is an O ring in the valve that may dislodge if you press the center of the valve with pressure on the inside plumbing. There is, however a "trick" you can do that eliminates the need for trying to get antifreeze back to that part of the fresh water supply line.

If you use air and blow out your water lines using an air adapter on the fresh water fill port, then there will be no water from the pump back to the city water inlet. Then,when you use the water pump and the winterizing kit to pump antifreeze to the fixtures, some of that antifreeze will flow back to the valve in the city water fill. The air removed all the water, so you'll have only antifreeze and a small amount of compressed air in that part of the water system. There's no need to use a hand pump to add extra antifreeze, using this method, it's already there.

Hope this makes sense to you.....

[tribalsimba]

Above and beyond the recommended I did the following:

#1 - I removed the access panel inside the drivers side outside storage, and then used a saw to cut a hole so I never have to remove it again. Next I may add some insulation around the pump to quiet it down.

#2 - I removed the lower kitchen drawer, in the entrance hallway, rather than the panel in the undersink cupboard. It does not require a screw driver to remove the drawer, and the bypass valve is right there.

I still need to address the black tank flush, and double check all the P-Traps, I don't think I used enough antifreeze to ensure each P-Trap was fully flushed with antifreeze.

The entire unit used only 1 gallon of antifreeze to purge every line (kitchen, bath, shower including hose, toilet, outside shower, outside sink, blow out city water opening) to the point it stopped sputtering air.

I've read many suggestions to ensure there is antifreeze in the tanks and toilet bowl to 'condition' the rubber seals through the winter, so adding that extra antifreeze, for the few dollars can't hurt.

I'll post some images of the panel mod maybe in the spring. I'm going to try to create a step-by-step procedure with images/video of EVERYTHING to be done, from washing the awnings and roof, to removing the battery.

It really is a warm weather (or inside garage) job, if you want to ensure the most satisfaction.