Dazed and confused about the Suburban water heater

[jeretp]

I have a 2010 Keystone Laredo, and until now my Suburban electric/gas water heater has ran on gas and worked efficiently. Overnight, the darn thing just stopped heating and the pilot will not re-ignite the propane gas. One of the propane tanks ran out of gas over the last 12 hours, and this may have caused the beginning of my trouble. I have replaced the tank and it still will not light.

It clicks constantly for 6 seconds, and goes through the reset then tries again without lighting until it goes into lockout mode. :banghead:

My electric switch has been off for the entire time that I have owned the coach, but I decided today that I would try that to see if it would produce enough heat to generate hot water until I figure this out.

I am thinking that if I replaced the Diode it might help since its been about a year since I replaced the old one, but I don't think that would be the solution to this issue.
I am thinking that the heating element may have burned out, or that there may be trash in there that I cannot see. I dont know how to replace the heating element, and I can buy a can of air to blow out the trash.

I was wondering if any of you may have had the same issue where the electric pilot continued to "click" and not ignite the gas?? Is there a simple solution to this problem or will I need to take it in to the dealer? By the way there is not a dealer around these parts..

[Javi]

Go inside and light the burners on your stove, when they are burning well give it a couple of minutes and re-light the hot water heater..

[SteveC7010]

We just had this conversation here a week ago.

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8035

[fla-gypsy]

A few questions; You have the tanked turned on? Do you have gas at the stove? Did you turn the valve on the tank on slowly? The changeover indicator shows you on the correct tank?

[jeretp]

Steve, I had read this prior to posting my problem, and tried to research it before I posted. I ran the burners, and I checked the weight of the tanks. One was full and the other empty. So, I placed the full tank on the system, and took the empty off the system for replacement. I am thinking that the full tank has enough pressure to light the heater. It is doing well for the furnace and the stove. Still, I believe that I have some sort of blockage or the element burned out due to leaving the switch on overnight????

[jeretp]

fla-gypsy, the one tank is on, and is full. Didnt turn on slowly, but the changeover indicator is green (opposed to red). Ran the burner to purge the air and it did flicker a few times until I had a nice running flame. I appreciate all of your quick responses!

[SteveC7010]

Steve, I had read this prior to posting my problem, and tried to research it before I posted. I ran the burners, and I checked the weight of the tanks. One was full and the other empty. So, I placed the full tank on the system, and took the empty off the system for replacement. I am thinking that the full tank has enough pressure to light the heater. It is doing well for the furnace and the stove. Still, I believe that I have some sort of blockage or the element burned out due to leaving the switch on overnight????

Depending on the distance from the tanks to the water heater, it may take 5 to 10 fault cycles to get the water heater going.

The combustion tube is easy to clean out as is the burner tube. Best to run something through them, kind of like cleaning a gun barrel, to make sure there is nothing blocking either.

While the burner is attempting to light, be at the heater and see if you can smell the captene (stinky stuff in propane), even briefly. If no odor, you may have a bad thermocouple. Also check the venturi for clogging or obstruction.

The service manual for this heater is available online, too.

[jeretp]

Steve, being a layman, I dont know what the difference is between the burner and combustion tubes. I have one tube that I can see on the outer part of the heater. I can see at the base there is an port opening, and I tried to light the thing by sticking a match up to the port as I had it on, and was hoping that that might light it. the flame went inside the tube (probably due to wind) but failed to light anything. So it appears that there is airflow in the tube..(burner tube?). I dont know where the combustion tube could be found? Thank you very much for your suggestions!

[jeretp]

Update! I turned on the electric heater which was the bottom left switch on the heater that has a cotter pin locking it in the off position. I have hot water! I still have the gas issue, but the lamp on the switch inside doesnt come on at all. I am thinking the electric heater makes the gas null and void? My question now is can I run the electric heater at all times and just bypass the gas? OR...Am I going to cause further damage?

[SteveC7010]

Update! I turned on the electric heater which was the bottom left switch on the heater that has a cotter pin locking it in the off position. I have hot water! I still have the gas issue, but the lamp on the switch inside doesnt come on at all. I am thinking the electric heater makes the gas null and void? My question now is can I run the electric heater at all times and just bypass the gas? OR...Am I going to cause further damage?

They can be run either/or/both just fine.

[SteveC7010]

Steve, being a layman, I dont know what the difference is between the burner and combustion tubes. I have one tube that I can see on the outer part of the heater. I can see at the base there is an port opening, and I tried to light the thing by sticking a match up to the port as I had it on, and was hoping that that might light it. the flame went inside the tube (probably due to wind) but failed to light anything. So it appears that there is airflow in the tube..(burner tube?). I dont know where the combustion tube could be found? Thank you very much for your suggestions!

http://www.rv-boondocking-adventure.com/rv-water-heater.html for detailed descriptions and pic.

I used the wrong name for the little tube where the gas is mixed with air. That is called the mixing tube. Still needs to be clean.

http://www.rvsupplywarehouse.com/content/images/thumbs/0004726_atwood_rv_water_heater_6_gal_125.jpg

The combustion tube is where the flame actually occurs. The head of the mixing tube and the thermocouple are in the circular opening at the lower right of the heater. The tube itself is actually U shaped and comes back out beneath the metal baffles in the upper left. They are easily removed with a screw driver. It can be cleaned out with most anything that would work similar to a gun barrel cleaner. Do it dry just to get cobwebs, spider houses, etc. out.

[CUFFS054]

Jeretp,
I had similar problem last week. 2010 Springdale 291. Past owner always ran WH on ele. I wanted gas. Switched on gas, got red light and it went out shortly. Tried again. Same sequence. Tried again. Same sequence. Tried again and this time NO red light, but also no burner. Switched off ele, flushed tank to cool it and tried again. Still no red light and no flame.
Took the black cover off where the reset buttons live. Neither had tripped nor would reset but while I was futzing with the gas hi/temp switch I got spark and ignition (somewhat of a surprise since my hand and arm were pretty much in the wrong place). WH has worked perfectly since.
The recovery time on gas is quicker than ele. I can run dishwasher and immediately shower and have enough water.

[mikell]

Were fulltimers and run the electric 24-7 but in the morning when we both are getting ready for work I turn the gas on. Usually about the time the first shower is done the gas comes on. I give it about 5 minutes and never have a cold shower. We turn the gas off when the showers are over and it's back to electric. Great setup for us. Between that and the heat pump we don't use hardly any propane

[maxx1963]

I had the same problem on my Fuzion. The valve that the tube comes out has 2 coil packs on them. I removed them and checked ohm resistance and they had none. they should have 35-45. I went to a local rv repair shop, they said you could not buy just the coil packs and a new valve was $100. but, they had an old used one that they gave me the coils off, I put them on and it fired right up!!!