View Full Version : Completely Enclosed Bottom 245RB

Mr. T.
09-02-2012, 05:42 PM
The bottom of my Passport 245RB is completely covered.
I have recently touched up all the visible underbody components of my trailer.
It is a 2009, and the frame was showing some rust.
I am concerned that there may be rust under the Bottom Cover, which extends from just aft the front A frame, to the rear bumper.
Is the cover to:
A. To add some insulation to the trailer floor.
B. To aid in aerodynamics.
C. To help support underbody fittings, such as plumbing or wiring.
I'd like to inspect the bottom of the trailer before I store it for winter, but
I am reluctant to remove the bottom cover, for fear that C. might be the case.
Can anyone who has removed this cover advise me
Mr. T.

09-02-2012, 05:47 PM
I don't believe "C" is true; that said, I do believe A&B are part of the equation. The enclosed bottom also serves to protect vulnerable components from damage during travel (electrical, hoses, etc.).

Several people both here and on other forums have removed this barrier for either service, repairs, or modification issues. :)

Mr. T.
09-02-2012, 05:53 PM
Thanks for the quick reply.
Never hurts to check.
Happy motoring. We still have a few weeks camping left.

09-02-2012, 05:55 PM
There have been a number of threads on this topic already.

The material is called coroplast. It's basically corrugated plastic. They enclose the underbellies to add insulation capacity for three season camping.

Feel free to pull the screws and drop the panel as you see fit. You won't hurt anything.

Mr. T.
09-02-2012, 06:03 PM
Thanks Steve.
That's the answer I was hoping for.
Happy Labour Day W/E
Mr. T.

09-02-2012, 06:50 PM
The coroplast underbelly isn't supporting anything but it does provide a minimal amount of insulation and protection for wiring, holding tanks, and plumbing lines. Don't be fooled into thinking that it provides much in the way of insulation during cold temperatures. There are just too many holes and openings and too much empty air space inside the coroplast for it to do much in the way of stopping your pipes from freezing.

Mr. T.
09-02-2012, 08:13 PM
Thank you very much.
Being retired, I welcome a new, "make work project" for next week.
Happy Motoring/Camping.

09-02-2012, 08:30 PM
Just a reminder on coroplast removal. Usually it's one peace of material. I had to cut mine in 3 sections to remove. And to reinstall, I had to buy angle iron for the 3 cut sections for support. And do not forget the cans of spray foam.

Jim & Kay
09-03-2012, 09:01 AM
Looks like your questions have been answered by other members so we'd just like to welcome you to the forum. You have joined a great group of fellow campers. Safe travels.

09-03-2012, 01:47 PM
My trailer even has a furnace duct that runs into the underbelly. I think that’s a futile effort, so I blocked that duct at the furnace.

Keystone also touts the underbelly covering as aerodynamic, so I vote for A&B.

Mr. T.
09-03-2012, 03:00 PM
Yes, it's a big sheet of material to remove in one section.
At this point, I may not even replace it, although I may do so once
I've seen the hidden secrets.
My previous outfits didn't have a bottom cover, and all was fine.
Thanks and good camping
Nice looking trailer, and you have a great taste in trucks.

Mr. T.
09-03-2012, 03:03 PM
Thanks for the thoughts.
Happy motoring.
Wayne and Bernice

09-03-2012, 03:44 PM
Although Keystone puts the coroplast under the bottom for aerodynamics and some insulation they also use it to cover up all the wires ect that they leave hanging and run all over the place. When I took the cover down it was like a birds nest under there. Also I was surprised at the amount of wiring just sitting loose on various frame members and such.

09-03-2012, 05:50 PM
Terrydactile is right and for the reasons he stated, you should replace the Coroplast after you have done whatever you intended to do under the coach. If for no other reason, than to protect the exposed components from rocks, and road debris that might get kicked up under there during travel. :(

You might try cutting the Coroplast across the width of the trailer in manageable sections; you can reseal it later with Gorilla tape which works incredibly well for this purpose. While you are at it, you might cut "access doors" in the Coroplast so that you can get to the dump valves if you need to in the future. I needed to do this when my pull rod broke off at the valve (black tank) when we were out camping. The access door made it easy to get to the valve for a quick fix!! :D