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jje1960
08-03-2012, 01:49 PM
Just wondering how happy others are with their SRX, we are having a ball! We purchased ours in Fall of 2010 (2011 model), and have continued to be amazed at how this model has held it's value (we paid like $33.5K) and love being able to carry our golf cart and have the garage space while at destination! Getting ready to add an extra aircon unit in the bedroom, was a challenge at Myrtle this year keeping it cool, however other than that and the cabinets next to the bed popping staples, just can't find anything to really complain about! Highly recommend this small toyhauler for those that do not want to deal with triple axle 40' models, it's 'just enough'. Finally, anyone else going to Bristol ???? We will be there!

smiller
08-03-2012, 05:26 PM
Yes to all of the above, including adding the 2nd A/C (has been a lifesaver) and replacing the closet staples with screws (has held up fine after that.) We're fulltiming in ours! So far so good and no problems, let's see how long it takes us to destroy it under fulltime use... :D

jje1960
08-04-2012, 11:01 AM
I also replaced/augmented the staples with 4 black drywall screws each. I had the dealer 'fix' it last year, pop'd first trip. It's kind of humorous actually... I specifically requested they not just re-staple it, so they used some high quality adhesive... however used it like caulking after they re-stapled it...... It actually only took me about 30 mins, should have done it myself in the first place.

dave-g
08-05-2012, 04:16 AM
I'm VERY happy with my 325srx- mine gets dual use-

1st its a toy hauler for my son and I to race motorcycles out of. I thought I would only use it for far races, but use it for the close ones as camping at the races is free!!! We go to 10-12 races per year.

2nd its a family camper- I have 3 teenage kids- and we fit fine- We went to walmart and bought a futon and throw rug for the garage- $125 total. Now the kids have a place to hang out and my oldest sleeps out there.

Also when family camping I use an extra rolling island in the kitchen for more counter space.

My problems-
1. Busted water hose- May have been a high water pressure issue- I do not know for sure- I now use a pressure regulator.
2. Shower base leaking- This is some thing every one should check- The base of the shower has some flex- the ridge abs piping does not flex. After re-caulking- I added a fernco ( flexible connector) to the drain.

If it was stolen tomorrow- I would be at the dealer in 10 minutes to buy another. I can not believe the value of the trailer.

smiller
08-05-2012, 08:36 AM
As long as we're talking about tweaks here are two more I'd add to to any 325SRX...

1. Add a line of stick-on gutter above the cargo door and an additional strip of weatherseal to the top of the door. Horizontal seals are always a challenge and these two steps will ensure no leaks even in the heaviest downpour.

2. Add a screw or retaining strap to the bunk ladder. Without this it is possible (rare, but possible) for it to deploy due to rough roads. If this happens you won't know it until you hear a crunching sound when you deploy the slide, DAMHIK :( Two bucks of hardware will eliminate this possibility forever.

And I agree with Dave, if the unit disappeared tomorrow I'd buy another. Excellent value and if you want a toy hauler with a completely separate and finished garage and don't want a triple-axle behemoth it's one of the very few choices available.

jje1960
08-05-2012, 11:12 AM
Well, only thing we have not added is the gutter for the back door, man... we have been in some serious downpours, however no problem yet! Knocking on wood here..... Our changes have been with the screws/adhesive with the cabinets and the re-seal of the shower stall. And yea... if it got taken tomorrow.... would be bee-lining for the same for a replacement!

dave-g
08-07-2012, 02:43 AM
Well, only thing we have not added is the gutter for the back door, man... we have been in some serious downpours, however no problem yet! Knocking on wood here..... Our changes have been with the screws/adhesive with the cabinets and the re-seal of the shower stall. And yea... if it got taken tomorrow.... would be bee-lining for the same for a replacement!

Add the gutter to the rear door- I bought my with the $50 store credit when I bought the trailer. The service managers thought it was a great Idea- he see a lot of used toy haulers with rotted floors and door. Very cheap insurance.

cvgkid
02-10-2013, 11:47 AM
Moving up from a 20' Weekend Warrier bumper pull Toy Hauler to the 325SRX next weekend.

Question for those of you hauling larger bikes...I have a H-D Street Glide and I've been using a WheelDock chock http://www.wheeldock.com/ .

In the Weekend Warrier I drilled two holes through the plywood floor to insert the two 1/2" bolts that hold the chock in place.

Any issues doing the same in the 325SRX? The chock cost a chunk of change so I want to continue using it.

By the way, the things posted here about gutters, portable kitchen islands and cabinet staples have been very helpful. Thanks.

JRTJH
02-10-2013, 02:09 PM
Use caution drilling through the floor of your toy hauler. There are two 30 gallon fuel tanks under there "somewhere" so I'd urge you to locate them, as well as your holding tanks before you start drilling.

smiller
02-10-2013, 02:13 PM
There are no fuel tanks in the 325SRX, and the holding and water tanks are forward of the garage compartment.

cvgkid
02-11-2013, 02:36 PM
The plan is to measure and check underneath 2 times and drill once...maybe measure/check 5-10 times just to be sure.

Dave-g. What size is that rolling island you purchased (LxWxH)? I went to Lowes and they have several I can special order...I guess I can wait to figure it out when I get the 325 home but just wondering what worked for you.

While I'm here, has anyone purchased a screen for the ramp door so you can leave it open and not let the bugs in while you're drinking a cold one while watching TV in the garage? I bought one for current Toy Hauler but the ramp is the width of the trailer. Since the door on this one is pretty narrow, that wouldn't work so well. Any leads appreciated.

smiller
02-11-2013, 04:38 PM
While I'm here, has anyone purchased a screen for the ramp door so you can leave it open and not let the bugs in while you're drinking a cold one while watching TV in the garage? I bought one for current Toy Hauler but the ramp is the width of the trailer. Since the door on this one is pretty narrow, that wouldn't work so well. Any leads appreciated.
Get some flexible magnetic stripping and attach it to the sides of the inside ramp door frame (which is flat metal, so the strip can be attached easily.) Then attach a roll of screen above the door, just long enough to reach the floor (use some velcro ties to keep it rolled up when not in use.) When you want to use the screen just unroll it and use some more magnet strip to seal the sides.

cvgkid
02-12-2013, 06:29 PM
Has anyone added a TV mount for an LCD TV in the underbelly space where the 110 and cable oulet is located so you can swing out the TV for outside viewing? The LCD's are light so it's not that big a deal to store it inside and carry it out and set up on a table, but having a mount to swing it out would be cool.

dave-g
02-14-2013, 06:00 PM
check here-
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1615&highlight=dave-g&page=3

pic of island and where I got it.

cvgkid
02-17-2013, 04:11 PM
Well, I picked up the 2011 SRX on Friday. Spent most of yesterday cleaning the inside. It was really dirty but looks much better now. It did pull very well on the way home (6hr trip). Gas mileage wasn't much worse than the little 20' Weekend Warrior I sold to help pay for the SRX.

I checked under the garage and it looks sealed so no bolts will be possible for the motorcycle wheel chock. It has the tracks for an E-Track system but the previous owner removed them so I will re-install them to tie down the bike.

We are now looking for the table for the kitchen. I assume those of you who bought the rolling table secure it in the garage when you're in transit? I didn't see anyplace to secure it in the kitchen area.

About the only thing that will need replacement is the outside shower. Previous owner says it leaks, but since there's anti-freeze in the lines, I'll wait till it gets a bit warmer to check it out.

That's about it for now. Enjoying the new toy!

Al

JRTJH
02-17-2013, 06:03 PM
cvgkid,

If you do find that the outside shower is leaking, you can buy just the faucet or just the hose or shower head without having to buy (and remove/reseal) the actual shower container. If you don't have any problems with the box leaking around the RV wall, I'd leave that alone. No need to introduce "issues" with sealant gaps if there's not a problem now......

cvgkid
02-17-2013, 07:32 PM
It looks really easy to fix/replace. Has two flexible hoses attached for hot/cold water and the whole thing is attached to the side wall like the faucets on a bathroom sink. Unscrew it from the back and the whole assemby should come out. I just have to figure out where it's leaking...heck it may just need a gasket.

dave-g
02-18-2013, 02:43 AM
I checked under the garage and it looks sealed so no bolts will be possible for the motorcycle wheel chock. It has the tracks for an E-Track system but the previous owner removed them so I will re-install them to tie down the bike.

We are now looking for the table for the kitchen. I assume those of you who bought the rolling table secure it in the garage when you're in transit? I didn't see anyplace to secure it in the kitchen area.

That's about it for now. Enjoying the new toy!

Al

The factory tie downs use self taping screws in to the floor beams- which are metal. I took 3/4 in ply wood that I made a clamp system for to the factory tie downs. Then I mounted my wheel chocks to the ply wood. I did this so when I family camping- I remove the ply wood and have a nice clean floor. Also allowed me to mount the wheel chocks are where I wanted. It gets very tight with 3 bike in the rear.

cvgkid
02-18-2013, 03:18 PM
The factory tie downs use self taping screws in to the floor beams- which are metal. I took 3/4 in ply wood that I made a clamp system for to the factory tie downs. Then I mounted my wheel chocks to the ply wood. I did this so when I family camping- I remove the ply wood and have a nice clean floor. Also allowed me to mount the wheel chocks are where I wanted. It gets very tight with 3 bike in the rear.

Got a picture? So the factory tie downs hold the plywood in place?

dave-g
02-18-2013, 05:46 PM
I do not have a picture and the rv is in storage. But what I did was take 3/4 in plywood 3ft by the length of the garage. I took a 3 in hole saw and cut 3 holes to expose the factory tie down. I then took metal to build a 3 in high bridge over the hole in the ply wood. In the middle of the bridge is a piece of threaded rod with a hook on the end. The hook grabs the factory tie down.

These have held 3 dirt bike for about 2500 mile last year. Worked great.

Also a cheap screen for the back is to go buy a garage door screen. I picked one up for $19.00 on line. A few screws and Velcro and it works fine to keep the bugs out.

cvgkid
02-24-2013, 07:00 PM
So after spending a good bit of the weekend unscrewing bolts on the bottom of the SRX, I finally ended up installing toggle bolts to keep my WheelDock Motorcycle chock in place. I needed the Chock to be in the narrow space between the side garage door and the door by the dinette. After unscrewing the bottom membrane and some of the fiberglass I found what appeard to be insulation, so running bolts through the floor was becoming more of a challenge than I wanted.

I ended up buying some toggle bolts which seem to be working OK. Not exactly what I was planning but we'll see if it works out.

We spent most of the weekend loading all our stuff in and getting things cleaned up. We're now ready for some serious camping while taking the bike along for fun.

dave-g
02-25-2013, 02:41 AM
glad it worked out for you. One more thing- I see you are putting a Harley in the back- be very careful with site selection. The cougar 325srx has a high ramp to start with- If the truck is facing up hill, when you level out, the rear of the trailer can be 2-3' higher! I find it interesting to get a 250 lb dirt bike out of the back with a very steep ramp backwards- I could not imagine trying to get a 1000+ lb Harley out.

cvgkid
02-25-2013, 03:11 PM
So first of all, I ordered a larger toggle bolt system from Grainger. The biggest one I could find at Lowes was a 1/4" bolt...that just didn't seem big enough so I ordered a nice big 1/2" bolt system today.

Yes, the ramp is a bit intimidating. In order to figure out the position of the chock, I had to go up/down a few times. Our drive way is on an incline so I pulled the trailer out on level ground before giving it a try. I was worried about the fairing on the front of the bike, but as it turned out, I was able to pull the chock back several inches and more to center, which helped on the second round. I also bottomed out the bike on transition from ramp to garage on the first run so I extended the legs on the bottom part of the ramp to make the bottom part a bit steeper and the top part more level. That took care of the problem. I also backed out with the motor off in 1st gear so I could use the front brake and clutch for a nice easy exit. I've pulled out of my previous toy hauler with just the brake and ended up sliding down...and that wasn't as steep.

I'll take a picture once I get everything installed the way I want it.

LittleJoe
02-26-2013, 01:47 PM
If you unhook from truck and raise the front end (I go 11"from starting point on extension of jacks) the ramp supports will need to be all the way in and the breakover angle will be good and the ramp angle will be good also.

Make sure you keep 80psi in tires as the rear axle on bike side WILL be over 2500lb by more than you might think. My BMW is over the max 800lb cargo wieght without any accessories or baggage on bike AND anything else in cargo area. That being said, I have traveled several thousand miles without issue, but try not to exceed 65mph.

cvgkid
02-26-2013, 05:42 PM
Thanks for the tips. I guess as long as the wheels are chocked really well and the landing gear is down in the back raising the front of the trailer should help a lot with the ramp angle.

I didn't think about the additional load on the right side of the trailer since I can't load the bike in the middle. I will definitely check the tires.

I thought the stated rated of the garage was 1,000 lbs? You mentioned 800lbs - I think my bike alone is 850lbs. Are you sure about that limit? I expect to be pretty close to 1,000 lbs when everything is loaded.

smiller
02-28-2013, 07:02 PM
The label in the garage of my 325SX says maximum load is 1,000 lbs.

coastrider
03-10-2013, 04:14 PM
I have just recently found this forum and am about to pick up my newly purchased 325SRX. There are a lot of great recommendations and am getting pretty antsy about picking it up when it's delivered from the factory. The wife and I have only had one opportunity to walk through a demo and really liked what we saw. One thing that glaringly stood out was that the ramp door latches didn't have any kind of locking mechanism. Is that the norm? If so, I know I could drill for a couple of padlocks, but thought this would be something Keystone could have rectified with little or no effort. Any thoughts? Thanks.

tightline
03-10-2013, 06:04 PM
The holes for the locks are in the top of the bracket the lever hooks behind hard to see. nice camper

FTWingRiders
03-10-2013, 06:47 PM
The holes for the locks are in the top of the bracket the lever hooks behind hard to see. nice camper

Thats nice to know! Just posted our intro stating we've just ordered a new 325srx, and that was something my wife and I were wondering about. :D

dave-g
03-11-2013, 03:54 AM
I have just recently found this forum and am about to pick up my newly purchased 325SRX. There are a lot of great recommendations and am getting pretty antsy about picking it up when it's delivered from the factory. The wife and I have only had one opportunity to walk through a demo and really liked what we saw. One thing that glaringly stood out was that the ramp door latches didn't have any kind of locking mechanism. Is that the norm? If so, I know I could drill for a couple of padlocks, but thought this would be something Keystone could have rectified with little or no effort. Any thoughts? Thanks.

I do not know if this is your 1st rv, but before you pay for the unit- and accept it at yours, do a top to bottom pre delivery inspection. Run and work EVERYTHING- get it fixed before you leave.

Having said that- I think the 325srx is one of the best value toy haulers out there. Just started the 2013 camping season. 23 degrees sat night- and we all stayed toasty warm. Enjoy you new camper.

coastrider
03-11-2013, 05:29 AM
Tightline/dave-g...thanks for the reply about the lock on the ramp door and inspection. Wife & I only had about 1/2 hour for the walk through the demo. This will be my second camper (will be my first 5er) and I learned hard lessons from the purchase of my first travel trailer. Live in Florida and bought the Coachmen Adrenaline Blast from South Carolina. In a hurry and left with a couple of issues as it turns out. This time, the dealer is 3 miles from my house, the owner goes to my church, and I plan to do a whole lot more crawling around and looking for those gremlins. Thanks for the advise.

smiller
03-11-2013, 05:46 AM
As has been mentioned there are holes for locks in the latches, they are just a little hard to see. I don't usually bother to lock mine though, we're normally in campgrounds and I just can't imagine someone coming along and deciding to open the loading door. And in an isolated area if someone wanted to break in they could do it pretty easily whether there was a lock back there or not, there are about 100 easy ways into most RVs.

cvgkid
03-12-2013, 06:49 PM
Sending a few pictures of modificaitons to the garage area. 1st of all, I used a 1/2" toggle to mount my Wheel Dock chock using the 1/2" bolts provided by the manufacturer. I'm also including pictures of the etrack system in my 325srx. Lastly, a mod we put in the garage is a wire drawer system. Lightweight and only took drilling two screws into the sidewall to keep it from tipping over.

jgilbert
05-14-2013, 11:13 AM
Just wondering how happy others are with their SRX, we are having a ball! We purchased ours in Fall of 2010 (2011 model), and have continued to be amazed at how this model has held it's value (we paid like $33.5K) and love being able to carry our golf cart and have the garage space while at destination! Getting ready to add an extra aircon unit in the bedroom, was a challenge at Myrtle this year keeping it cool, however other than that and the cabinets next to the bed popping staples, just can't find anything to really complain about! Highly recommend this small toyhauler for those that do not want to deal with triple axle 40' models, it's 'just enough'. Finally, anyone else going to Bristol ???? We will be there!

Could you tell me what golf cart you have? Mines doesen't fit and I cant seem to find one that will. Thank you

Lms
07-14-2013, 06:29 PM
Sending a few pictures of modificaitons to the garage area. 1st of all, I used a 1/2" toggle to mount my Wheel Dock chock using the 1/2" bolts provided by the manufacturer. I'm also including pictures of the etrack system in my 325srx. Lastly, a mod we put in the garage is a wire drawer system. Lightweight and only took drilling two screws into the sidewall to keep it from tipping over.

My husband is interested in having this wheel dock installed. How long did it take to install it your self? Also is it easily removed if not in use?

cvgkid
07-29-2013, 06:11 PM
My husband is interested in having this wheel dock installed. How long did it take to install it your self? Also is it easily removed if not in use?

Well, total elapsed time was a few weeks - that's because it took me a while to figure out what to do. I tried going underneath the garage to drill through the floor but abandoned that idea after finding finding lots of insulation under the floor. So, option B was using the 1/2" toggle. I wanted to use the 1/2" bolts that came with the wheel dock but couldn't find anything bigger than a 1/4" toggle at places like Lowes. Had to order through Grainger. Once I got the toggle and a drill bit big enough to handle the toggle it was just a matter of deciding where to install the wheel dock and drilling through the plywood floor. It is very easy to take the wheel dock out by just loosening the bolts using the allen wrench that comes with the wheel dock. I just missed one of the aluminum joists, so be careful when you start drilling.

jje1960
08-04-2013, 08:10 AM
Could you tell me what golf cart you have? Mines doesen't fit and I cant seem to find one that will. Thank you

Hey. Our current cart is a very old EZGO. It's tight, however poking the front of the cart in the open area between the doors is how we have ours, it's in there right now as a matter of fact. I'll take a picture.

dave-g
08-07-2013, 01:26 AM
Just got back from a 9 day trip. No motorcycles in the back- but my family can surely fill the garage up.

We had a futon bed in the back for my son. along with surf boards- beach chairs and coolers for camping at Assateague island MD. Dry camping in 90+ degrees - the garage was the best room in the house with the door down and the full screen in place.

The 325srx has meet all my needs-
1. Toy hauler for racing motor cycles.
2. Classy rv for those really nice rv parks- with the family.
3. Now beach house- dry camping for 4 days at the beach.
4. Furniture hauler for bring kids back to collage.

All for these different uses mean it gets used more.

jje1960
08-07-2013, 01:28 PM
Cool! Where did you buy the full screen? Can you post pic please.

Jim

dave-g
08-11-2013, 05:58 AM
I'll have to get a pic but

this is similar to what I used-

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R4EPDM

It just mounts with a few screws- and i centered the opening and cut off the extra. It has a magnet closure and weights on the bottom.

Meets 99% of what I want for 10% of wants cw want for one

Lrdchaos
08-22-2013, 03:15 PM
Does anyone have the pin weight of a fully loaded out camping ready 325srx? Thank you

LittleJoe
08-24-2013, 03:55 PM
Our 325SRX fully loaded for road trip is IIRC =/- 9800 on trailer axles, and 2400lbs on the pin with 900lb bike + gear etc in garage. Can't remember if I had any fresh water at the time I weighed a couple years ago but holding tanks were empty.
My sig truck with aux tank full and with wife and I and stuff for a month combination weight is 21000Lb .

coastrider
12-14-2013, 07:05 AM
I've had my SRX325 for about 8 months now and it has been plagued with little problems. I've had to have (4) new main control panels (they finally fixed the issue), a remote control brain box (they caught the camper on fire while fixing another issue), the awning motor had to be replaced by recall, the main dometic AC had to be replaced, and the list goes on.

My current issue (to anyone who would be of assistance) is that on our last camping trip I found a rat running around in our bathroom after we went for a bike ride. I promptly ran him out and thought the issue might be over, but wanted to see where he could have gotten in. I found two rather large openings, each by both the rear stabilizers, that look like Keystone ran out of enough sheet metal for the outer skin to reach the underside of the camper. The sheet metal comes about 3 or 4 inches from wrapping completely to the bottom at those points. The rest of the camper outer skin meets the bottom nicely. The openings are just at the stabilizers only. I wasn't sure that was the entry point until we left the campground with my wife driving behind. The same rat or maybe his sibling fell out of the camper at the back left stabilizer going down the road at 30 mph.

Does anybody else have that same issue? Or is it just mine? Thanks in advance, your response would be very helpful in getting Keystone to fix this issue by pop-riveting some sheet metal around those areas to keep critters out.

jje1960
12-14-2013, 07:50 AM
Has anyone added a TV mount for an LCD TV in the underbelly space where the 110 and cable oulet is located so you can swing out the TV for outside viewing? The LCD's are light so it's not that big a deal to store it inside and carry it out and set up on a table, but having a mount to swing it out would be cool.

Yes, ours came out awesome.

dave-g
12-15-2013, 05:19 AM
My current issue (to anyone who would be of assistance) is that on our last camping trip I found a rat running around in our bathroom after we went for a bike ride. I promptly ran him out and thought the issue might be over, but wanted to see where he could have gotten in. I found two rather large openings, each by both the rear stabilizers, that look like Keystone ran out of enough sheet metal for the outer skin to reach the underside of the camper. The sheet metal comes about 3 or 4 inches from wrapping completely to the bottom at those points. The rest of the camper outer skin meets the bottom nicely. The openings are just at the stabilizers only. I wasn't sure that was the entry point until we left the campground with my wife driving behind. The same rat or maybe his sibling fell out of the camper at the back left stabilizer going down the road at 30 mph.

Does anybody else have that same issue? Or is it just mine? Thanks in advance, your response would be very helpful in getting Keystone to fix this issue by pop-riveting some sheet metal around those areas to keep critters out.

I'm not missing any- but one thing I always do is to put a rag in the water,cable hook up hole. You will a ways see ships with large rings on the ropes- this is to keep critters out.