gray water valve leaking

[Ayotte]

I have a 2012 cougar x-lite 26sab and the bathroom gray water valve is seeping. With the bottom fully enclosed I have no idea where to cut a hole to access the valve. Has anyone replaced the rubbers ? if so could you give me an idea where they are located? Changing the rubber seals is easy -just don't know an easy way to locate them. Thanks.

[SteveC7010]

I have a 2012 cougar x-lite 26sab and the bathroom gray water valve is seeping. With the bottom fully enclosed I have no idea where to cut a hole to access the valve. Has anyone replaced the rubbers ? if so could you give me an idea where they are located? Changing the rubber seals is easy -just don't know an easy way to locate them. Thanks.

The black plastic coroplast is held up with screws. Try removing a few of them until the panel drops down enough so that you can see up in there with a flashlight. You should be able to locate the Valterra valve easily once the coroplast is opened up a bit.

[geo]

X2 on what Steve suggested. Just take a ratchet with a 3/8 socket, take 3 maybe 4 self-tapping screws out, and you will be able to see inside with a flashlight or drop light. Cutting should be the last resort. Because then, you have to get underbelly tape! :D

Ron

[azlee56]

I don't know if this will help, but our black tank was seeping when we bought our Montana a few months ago. I said something before the 15 day warranty period and the dealers asked if they could just put another valve at the end of the pipe, since it was a pain to do it on the actual valves. I checked here with the members and no one did a red flag (if I described it right to them), so they did and it has worked great so far.

[Ayotte]

Yes I would drop the covering but there is propane lines on both sides where the front tanks are located. The covering is just above the lines.

[allentx1]

drop the coroplast further away from the propane lines. At least that will give you an idea of where to cut. Also, I have been using Gorilla black tape (like duct tape only stronger). I have yet to have any issues with it coming off anything, including me. Sheaper than underbelly tape and seems to have same consistency of adhesive. Also, on the second valve idea, I had thought about that too and my only fear was that the fluid remaining in the line after the original valve could freeze more readily in winter (assuming fluid in there at all). I cut and replaced my rubbers.

[Ayotte]

I did drop the underbelly at the front and got a measurement, Cut a whole about 6in by 15in. Was able to remove valve-seemed like nothing wrong with seals (didn't realize that the front gray valve is a 3.5in) cleaned it up and lubed it a bit so it worked easier. reinstalled and used a 1x6 and screwed the underbelly onto it to seal the hole. No leaks. Hope it works better now.

[billstuart]

If it's a 2012 it should be under warranty. I'd let the dealer deal with it - and get them to show me where to go next time it leaks.

[Ayotte]

It is under warranty but I am 300Km from my dealer. Thought if I could fix it myself it would be much cheaper than towing it all that distance.

[Roberson4]

It is under warranty but I am 300Km from my dealer. Thought if I could fix it myself it would be much cheaper than towing it all that distance.

I am not near that far from our dealer, but try and fix allot of stuff myself rather than our camper set at the dealer for 3 weeks 'waiting in line'.
There should be a way for owners to make repairs while the RV is still under warrentee, and get paid for making the repair. Although the documentation/proof of problem/proof of work done, would (and probably should) be a big hassle.

[scottm1]

My 2010 Laredo 318RL was doing the same thing you are describing....seeping past the black tank valve leaving me with a nice stinky surprise everytime I took off the dump cap. I looked into dropping my underbelly to replace the valve or the valve seal, but once I saw how much trouble it was I decided to try something else first. I found out that my valve or seals weren't actually bad,, but the remote cable was binding not allowing the cable to push in far enough to slam the gate valve completely shut. I simply pulled the cable all the way out, sprayed WD-40 on the cable and into the cable housing the best I could, then pushed the cable in and out several times, then repeated this several times. After the WD-40 got all through the cable housing, it them moved in and out much more freely allowing the cable to push the gate valve completely shut causing the seepage to stop. Then just shoot WD-40 in the cable periodically to keep it from happening again. It worked for me, and sure beats having to drop the underbelly, or even having to hook up and take it to the dealer even if it is under warranty. I think it is really just a maintenance thing most people just overlook. Give it a try before doing anything else first is my opinion.

[SteveC7010]

Just a word of caution about WD-40. It's great stuff, but everyone should understand that it is more of a solvent than a lubricant. It will dry out and dissipate fairly quickly and that is why you find yourself re-applying it regularly.

Once the cable is freed up and working properly thanks to the WD-40, it is better to use a lubricant that will stick around for a long time.

I think in the case of the cables in the Valterra remote systems, either a silicone spray lube or one of the liquid borne graphite spray lubes would be good choices. Either can be forced into the cable and work its way down the entire length. (Remember that the standard Valterra cable is 72" long.) And they stay in place for a long time.

I fully agree that maintenance of the cable is a good first approach if you have access to the handle end of the cable housing. My Cougar, however, has the cables buried behind a bulkhead with only the "T" handles and a couple of inches of aluminum shaft accessible from the outside. Dropping the coroplast is my only choice for maintenance of two out of the three dump valves.

[scottm1]

Steve, I agree with you on the WD-40 not lasting very long, and I thought I should have been using a light grease, but I was afraid if I used the wrong stuff it would cause the cable to actually stick worse if it got dirty or sticky with age. I felt the WD-40 was safe to not cause later problems, but like you said, it would dissipate quickly. Do you know of a better, longer lasting lubricant(brand name) that would work better-longer? I guess now that I think of it there are actually lubricants that are designed specifically for lubricating cables that would keep the cable from binding or sticking later. So yea, I do agree with you Steve.

[SteveC7010]

Steve, I agree with you on the WD-40 not lasting very long, and I thought I should have been using a light grease, but I was afraid if I used the wrong stuff it would cause the cable to actually stick worse if it got dirty or sticky with age. I felt the WD-40 was safe to not cause later problems, but like you said, it would dissipate quickly. Do you know of a better, longer lasting lubricant(brand name) that would work better-longer? I guess now that I think of it there are actually lubricants that are designed specifically for lubricating cables that would keep the cable from binding or sticking later. So yea, I do agree with you Steve.

Any decent silicone spray or one of the liquid borne graphite sprays should do the trick. Auto parts store or Home Depot or Ace Hardware will all have a good assortment.