Fridge Manual online ?

[dankent]

Hello all,


Getting ready to go on our first camping trip and having an issue with the fridge. I cannot figure out if its working or not. I have power connected from my house to the trailer. Lights are on .. light comes on in the fridge as well. I have two buttons on the top of fridge that do on/off and auto. I have it set to On and not auto and have a green light. but i dont hear anything and i dont feel any temp change inside the trailer. Does anyone know where i can get the manual for the fridge if such a thing exists ?



thanks.

[SAD]

Hello all,


Getting ready to go on our first camping trip and having an issue with the fridge. I cannot figure out if its working or not. I have power connected from my house to the trailer. Lights are on .. light comes on in the fridge as well. I have two buttons on the top of fridge that do on/off and auto. I have it set to On and not auto and have a green light. but i dont hear anything and i dont feel any temp change inside the trailer. Does anyone know where i can get the manual for the fridge if such a thing exists ?



thanks.

Depending on if you have a Norcold or Dometic - both companies have online manuals. Google your maker and model number.

But in regards to your question... These fridges do not make any noticeable noise like a traditional household or small dorm fridge would. There is no compressor. It generates it's cooling with a chemical reaction (ammonium gas absorption) so there is no noise or fan.

It takes 8-12+ hours for the fridge to come up to temp. You'll notice the change first in the freezer compartment.

Most people who don't store there RV with the fridge on, will turn it on a day or two before their planned trip. I leave mine on 24x7x365 (we store it in our shop/garage at home) and only turn it off for defrosting the cooling fins.

You should be able to leave the fridge on "auto" mode. It will choose A/C power as a priority. When A/C power is not available, it will use propane gas as long as a 12v supply is available.

The only time I manually move mine from "auto" over to "A/C" is when I might be plugged in to a 20 amp outlet and want to conserve available amps for other electrical devices.

[JRTJH]

Chances are based on the buttons you say you have on your referigerrator, it's a Dometic RM2652. Here is the link to the user manual for that refrigerator:

http://www.dometic.com/FileOrganizer/1-international/Operation%20&%20Installation%20Manuals/Refrigerators%20-%20Caravan-Motorhomes-RV/US/DM2652%20User.pdf

Hope this helps.

[CincyGus]

If you are going to leave it hooked up like SAD, his method works fine. If your concerned about the cord becoming unplugged or won't leave your trailer on power when stored, AC is the better setting because if left on auto and unpluged, it will switch to gas and use 12v to power the circuits which could run you out of gas and drain your battery if left too long this way.

I don't leave my camper plugged in when stored and leave by propane bottles turned off and the fridge turned off. I open the propane bottles and put it on auto 2 days prior to my trip, plugging it in so it is running of house current. The night before or morning of the trip, I load it with pre-cooled and frozen food and when I disconnect from house power, it switches to propane/12v for the trip. Hook up at the campsite if I have electric and it switches back to AC. Unplug and it's back to propane and 12v for the trip home. Unload the fridge and it gets turned back off along with the propane.

A little fridge thermometer is helpful in checking temps which ideally will be between 34-39 degrees in the frig and below freezing in the freezer.

Remember to pre cool or freeze food. It is more a maintainer of temps and not as powerful as a household fridge. Putting unchilled food, liquids, cans of beer/pop in it really takes it a while to recover from and drives the inside temps up. Ban Fridge browzing with the door open.

[f6bits]

My fridge makes a very quiet whirring noise that cycles on and off every five to ten minutes. I keep mine on Auto so it saves propane, but the quiet whirr occurs in either setting. (anybody know what that whirring noise is?)

One of my control lights is “CHECK” which the manual says only applies to running in Auto (propane) mode. I suppose that if you set yours to Auto and the CHECK light comes on, it’s not working. However, give it a few hours and you’ll know for sure if it’s cooling or not.

[SAD]

My fridge makes a very quiet whirring noise that cycles on and off every five to ten minutes. I keep mine on Auto so it saves propane, but the quiet whirr occurs in either setting. (anybody know what that whirring noise is?)...

When you hear it... Go outside to the fridge access panel on the outer wall of the RV... If you hear it more pronounced, it's the cooling fan. When the air-temp in the access panel reaches a pre-set point, it comes on to circulate air/draw cooler air in.

[SAD]

...Ban Fridge browzing with the door open.

I like this.. LOL

[fivergeezer]

I find that if it is especially hot inside as well as outside it could take considerably longer for the fridge to get cold. Because there are no moving parts except some models with cooling fans, you will hear nothing on electric power to a slight flame noise outside when on propane. Give it at least overnight before you suspect trouble.

[dankent]

Turns out i wasnt waiting long enough and i wont hear it running. seems to be nice and cold and only took a couple hours to start showing coolness in the freezer. Thanks all for replying.

Dan

[ptunya]

WE have the most annoying refrigerator. The good news is that it freezes and cools, BUT it makes a rhythmic little motor sound, like it is trying to start up, every 15 seconds all day and all darn night when we are trying to sleep.:banghead: It is so annoying at night, that we have to turn our refrigerator completely off until morning so we can get to sleep! Anyone know why they would make such an annoying refrigerator inside a camper where you sleep! I wonder if that is why the first owners sold this camper! I like everything else about this camper, but that! help!(tx)

[jtyphoid]

Some fridges, especially those in slide outs, have a fan in the back to circulate air in the bottom vent and out the top. Have you opened the bottom vent and listened at the vent opening?

[JRTJH]

In 2010 and it looks like some of 2011, Keystone used Dometic 2652 refrigerators in almost all their low and medium priced models. At that time, there wasn't a difference in the refrigerators that were installed in slides and those that were installed with a roof vent. Dometic apparently included the fans in all their 2652 models. Our Springdale (with a roof vent for the reefer) had the fan connected and operational. It was extremely loud and annoying. I did some research online and with the service manager at CW and we determined that the fan was necessary for "in slide" installations, but was not required for "roof vented" installations. I opened the rear lower vent and disconnected the red wire that came from the black "control box", removed the 3 amp fuse from the inline fuse holder, and that cut power to the fan. I never heard it again and the refrigerator worked normally for the rest of the time we owned it.

I'd think that in your Passport, with the roof vented refrigerator, you also don't need the fan. Take the outside refrigerator vent door off, you'll see a red wire with a fuse holder. The wire originates in the lower left corner of the refrigerator and goes upwards at about 45 degrees to the upper right side of the refrigerator. Open the inline fuse holder, remove the fuse, close the fuse holder and reinstall the vent door. You'll get a good night's sleep and your refrigerator will operate normally.

Good Luck,