Electric stabilizers on BH250

[witekjm]

We own a 2009 Passport 250BH. We have the Powerpackage that includes the electric stabilizers. Does the unit need to be plugged into shorepower when lowering the stabilizers for leveling? Our unit was pretty unstable while camping. We took it to the dealer but could not replicate the problem. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks, JW:confused:

[Flyguy]

The stabilizers should operate on 12 volts DC so your battery should power them, the shore power is only to charge the battery and supply power for the 110v outlets, the AC unit, and the microwave. The shore power works through the battery for 12v power, once you unplug from it your on the battery alone. If the stabilizers don't work when on battery power (you should see them going up and down) then there is something wrong.

[SLIMSHADIE]

When i got mine home they didnt work. The fuse was blown and it was the one that wasnt marked. It still blows the fuse every third time, but I know and marked it but something still aint right.:confused:

[witekjm]

Our stabilizers both work, but when coming in contact with the ground, the motor hums and then stops. It cannot lift the trailer as Keystone reps said it would (visted them at the RV show in Hershey PA). When walking in the trailer, it is pretty wobbly. I'm guessing I'm not stabilizing it enough. Any suggestions? Thanks, JW

[Flyguy]

If the power jacks have a manual override feature, then after the power assist gets them to the ground use the crank to finish the job, I have the manual jacks on my RV and I get them down hard enough to feel that they are doing some good, even with this there is still some wobble when walking in the trailer, I guess when you build light, strength has to come from somewhere.

[witekjm]

Just got back from the Washington DC RV show and came across a Keystone Passport with stabilizer jacks. Walked around in it and it was pretty stable.

I'll try a couple of stabilizer jacks on our trailer. Has anyone experienced JR Strong Arms for trailer stability? JW

[prov431]

Our 2010 Sprinter 264BHS has front and rear electric stabilizer jacks.
The pricinpal of operation is that when one of the jacks contacts the ground, it's limit switch will cut out the motor when the torque set point is reached. The opposite jack will continue to operate until it's limit swich operates.
So, if you are on uneven ground, both jacks will be able to give a firm base.
The jacks are NOT designed to "lift" the trailer, they are designed to "stabilize". That being said, I've experienced no sway or rocking whatsoever, in fact, the trailer is rock solid!
To be sure that you are getting the most of the stabilizer jacks, don't extend them too far, there jack legs cannot be straight up and down or they will never work as designed. If the reach to the ground is too high, be sure to block them first.

-Dan
N. Carolina

[witekjm]

Thanks, Dan. I'll try your suggestions this spring. JW

[prov431]

Also, if you still don't feel like you got enough out of the jack(s) you could always use the supplied manual wrench to crank them a bit more.

[tedstr]

When i got mine home they didnt work. The fuse was blown and it was the one that wasnt marked. It still blows the fuse every third time, but I know and marked it but something still aint right.:confused:

We have a Laredo 28RBS with the electric stabilizer jacks. When my wife and I try to lower the front and back jacks at the same time, we will blow the fuze you mentioned. I assume that using both motors at the same time causes an overload, so we always lower them one at a time. I also lower or raise the jacks when I'm hooked up to shore power to keep my batteries charged. I keep a set of spare fuses in the electric panel just in case you need it. Lowered or raising the jacks with the crank can take a long time, but is good exercise.

[SLIMSHADIE]

I also thought the same thing about lowering the jacks together, so I do one at a time to figure out which one it is. I think its the front. I check the switch and connections this spring. After a week of hand cranking, good thing for kids, I know now how everything should work. I bought plenty of fuses this time too, and marked the panel.

[soundman]

Hello
The way I keep my 301RMP stable is using X chock between the wheels. Purchased them at Caming World.
Good Luck

[witekjm]

I took our Passport to the dealer and upon hooking up, I noticed there was no battery current to the living quarters even though the battery was fully charged. I investigated the wiring and came across a rubber fuse harness and after opening it noticed severe corrosion on the fuse and fuse socket. The dealer repaired it under warranty.

The corrosion might have contributed to weak battery power to stabilizers. I will check it out next week at the campsite. JW :)

[witekjm]

After bringing our camper to the dealer for a "refresher" course in decoupling, I came across a fuse box that was pretty corroded. It was between battery and living quarters. The dealer replaced the fuse box and on our first camping trip in late March, the stabilizers worked fine. It must have been the corrosion that created a weaker current to the stabilizers last Sept. The next problem to solve is the front-back wiggle and up and down movement while camping. JW

[john.witek62]

Another stabilizer issue: During our camping trip last week, there was no 12-volt (battery) electrical power to the stabilizers and slide-out. Both are included in the PowerPackage along with the Tongue jack and Power Awning. Interior and exterior lights worked. All worked when 7-pin plug was plugged into tow vehicle with the engine off. Not a camping trip stopper, but a problem. I checked and replaced the fuse at the front of the RV but still no battery power. Any ideas?? 😟

[ctbruce]

Another stabilizer issue: During our camping trip last week, there was no 12-volt (battery) electrical power to the stabilizers and slide-out. Both are included in the PowerPackage along with the Tongue jack and Power Awning. Interior and exterior lights worked. All worked when 7-pin plug was plugged into tow vehicle with the engine off. Not a camping trip stopper, but a problem. I checked and replaced the fuse at the front of the RV but still no battery power. Any ideas?? [emoji45]John, great post but it's on a post that is 8 years old. You'll get more responses if you post a new thread in the proper forum.

[JimSchwenk]

I'd love to know where that fuse is. Both of mine stopped working, but before they stopped completely I would have intermittent success. Then one day they just quit. The switches are one the outside walls of my 26RB, and they feel cheesy. I took them out and the wires of course go into a sealed back side.
I've also heard that the cheap Chinese motors will toast themselves, and rather than purchasing new, still cheap, motors you can go to a guy who rewinds starters and anternators and have them do the motors the right way, so they will last.
My last T/S trick will be to run striaght from the battery to the motors to see if they are actually the issue. I was thinking there might be a resettable circuit breaker somewhere but as I said the switches themselves feel mushy. Tried a contact cleaner bath but no joy...