geo
04-09-2012, 07:46 AM
I had not had any problems with the vacuum breaker valve on the black tank flush system, but just knowing where the lines to this valve ran made me nervous. (VacBrk_before.jpg) In the picture VacBrk_before.jpg, one can see two Pex lines to the left of the Iota Transfer Switch that press on the switch case and disappear above the case. Those Pex lines run up into the wall between the toilet closet and the bedroom to the vacuum breaker valve. There is no access to this valve from either the toilet closet or the bedroom. I viewed this as just a bad accident waiting to happen.
When I replaced the Iota Transfer Switch, I also replaced the vacuum breaker valve. I found a brass check valve rated to 200 pounds pressure WOG (water-oil-gas) with half-inch thread. There were already two half inch connections on the black tank flush Pex tubing behind the WaterWorks area. It was a very simple matter that took no time at all to unscrew the existing fittings, move the old Pex to the side, and install the brass check valve in place. (Check_valve.jpg)
To finish the installation, I used a cable tie to secure the check valve to the aluminum structural member in an upright position. The flapper gate inside the check valve is gravity influenced to remain closed when no pressure is applied, thus there is an "up and down". The "blocked portion of the Y" should be above, or upright, of the flow connections.
As there was no way to remove the vacuum check valve (it was secured in the wall space), I pulled the Pex piping down as far as I could, cut and removed it. I used a low-expansion foam to seal the two inch hole that remained.
Ron
When I replaced the Iota Transfer Switch, I also replaced the vacuum breaker valve. I found a brass check valve rated to 200 pounds pressure WOG (water-oil-gas) with half-inch thread. There were already two half inch connections on the black tank flush Pex tubing behind the WaterWorks area. It was a very simple matter that took no time at all to unscrew the existing fittings, move the old Pex to the side, and install the brass check valve in place. (Check_valve.jpg)
To finish the installation, I used a cable tie to secure the check valve to the aluminum structural member in an upright position. The flapper gate inside the check valve is gravity influenced to remain closed when no pressure is applied, thus there is an "up and down". The "blocked portion of the Y" should be above, or upright, of the flow connections.
As there was no way to remove the vacuum check valve (it was secured in the wall space), I pulled the Pex piping down as far as I could, cut and removed it. I used a low-expansion foam to seal the two inch hole that remained.
Ron