brake issues

[Lack of HP]

I need some advice. I have a Cougar 327 res and I continue to have brake issues. Controller works great, traded it out once. Have had CW adjust the brakes 4 ( about every 1500 miles ) times since I purchased the unit. Nearly crashed this weekend as I had to stop fairly quick and guess what no brakes.
Anyone else having these issues or any ideas? thanks HP

[f6bits]

Not that you had time to watch the controller, but did you notice if it was sending current to your trailer?

[mhs4771]

More info: What's the TV, what Brand Controller, and the big one, just because CW adjusted the brakes, did they check out that each magnet is drawing current and that there's no broken or frayed wires?? If you're going slow approx 15-20 and apply the trailer brakes manually, do they work??

[66ken]

I had the same problem on my 327. I finally pulled the wheels and found that the grease seals were bad and the linings were soaked with grease. Replaced all the brakes and seals and now have brakes. The Dexter kits come complete with linings, backing plates and all hardware including magnets ready to bolt on. Seems like the price was around $250 for everything.

[eds451]

One way to check if the trailer brakes are working is to jack up one side so a wheel spins freely and make a jumper wire from the rv battery to the 12v and brake pins on the 7 pin trailer power connector. Once you have it jumped, try to spin the wheel. If the magnets are working, you will not be able to spin the wheel.

[chuck&gail]

Again, what model and make of brake controller. In my opinion you could try hundreds of Voyagers for example and never find one that worked right.

If you are using a Prodigy, then I think the problem is in the TT or your wiring.

[Lack of HP]

Thanks to all who replied, I have my fifth wheel at CW now, not had a chance to look at it yet. Never had this problem with a unit before. I do have a Prodigy contoller. I just have never had good brakes on this unit from the day I purchased it. I have walked along side and had my DW apply the brakes. I can hear what I think are the magnets making contact. Will post when I find out hopefully what the problem was. thanks again. HP

[mhs4771]

If they've never worked right from day one, I vote for blown rear seals and brakes swiming in grease. I had one that way direct from the Factory, and several others on the MOC have had the same problem, anywhere from 1 wheel to all 4 wheels. Either someone at Dexter is pumping in to much grease or someone at the Dealer Ship, of course this would only happen if you have the grease zerks in the ends of the spindles

[MILBY]

It could be something as easy as a bad ground?

[rjsurfer]

A easy way to check if the brake magnets are working is to just hold a compass next to the brake drum and have someone push the manual slider on the controller to full brake. The compass needle should swing quickly towards the drum, if it doesn't move you have a problem.

Of course it can't give you an accurate reading of the brake current but it's a quick and dirty way to see whats going on when on the road.

Ron W.

[flybouy]

I need some advice. I have a Cougar 327 res and I continue to have brake issues. Controller works great, traded it out once. Have had CW adjust the brakes 4 ( about every 1500 miles ) times since I purchased the unit. Nearly crashed this weekend as I had to stop fairly quick and guess what no brakes.
Anyone else having these issues or any ideas? thanks HP

Take the unit to a large level parking lot, pull the pin on the break away switch and and pull forward a few feet. If the the trailer wheels turn the problem is the camper, if they are locked up the issue is with the tow vehicle.

[Johnnyfry]

A very crafty and definitive test, Flybuoy, thanks.

John

[Lack of HP]

well alot of you were right on. Blown seals. They are replacing everything under warranty. I guess this has been my issue all along. Kinda upset they did not find this right off as it burned the bearings out on one wheel. Evidently when I had it in they did not do to good of job checking, just adjusted up enough to stop, out the door and then I am back. Hopefully this will cure the problem. I think you guys were right on Dexter maybe over filling and blowing the seals if there are several having this problem. Took a little bit of converstation to get CW and Keystone to come to agreement to fix and replace everything but I showed them my records, made a couple of calls and they agreed.
Even though I was upset, sometimes a cool head, calm voice they will be a little more under standing. (ps, keep your records on your work) thanks again to all of you. HP

[tidwood]

I had a friend show me a supposedly good way to check the brakes. On level ground, put the tv in drive, slowly accelerate and once moving use the slide on the controller to engage the brakes. I do this each time we get going and it seem to work.

[rhagfo]

It could be something as easy as a bad ground?

I agree!

Make sure the ground through the 7 pin is good and strong on both ends. Make sure especially on the trailer end.

[happytrails]

I agree!

Make sure the ground through the 7 pin is good and strong on both ends. Make sure especially on the trailer end.

Do you think this could be the case for intermittent brakes as well? My brake controller only has an amber LED that gets brighter with more brake intensity or off for no brakes at all. When I have my "issue" it flickers which is not what I want! I located the grounds on my TT and and took them off to find that no paint was removed and the hole for the screw was rusty. I scraped off all the pain for both grounds and have not had a chance to test the brakes yet. One of the grounds had some oxidation on it which, as I have seen with other electrical problems on cars, is a common issue for a bad ground. I am hoping this solves the issue but was wondering what others think.

Thanks!

***Edit
Okay, well I found my issues. I checked each wheel hub and found that three had issues. One had no issues at all, two had small issues that I taped up for now, and one had major issues. The picture shows the two wires in the major issue hub. One wire is just worn and exposing the copper and the other is worn all the way through for a nice open. The other two hubs looked like the worn wire so I just taped over them for now. I think I am going to replace the magnets to make sure it's done right, but why in the world does this problem still exist after all these years of making these things? You would have thought there could be a better way to route the wires. Well I did do something that may not work in the one I had to fix. I butt-spliced wires to each side of the broken wires, but I also routed them through the actuator spring to keep them out of the way of the hub. I hope this helps and doesn't get in the way. There's no telling how long I have been driving around with no brakes on that one wheel. So lesson learned here for me is to just go ahead and remove those wheels and hubs and check them out. It took a few hours and it was a pain in 96 degree temps, but it was a learning experience.

I am looking for ideas at this point on what others have done to keep these wires from rubbing the hub.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=230&pictureid=1043