Replacement Bulbs for pendant lights

[Devildogmom]

We have a 2012 Couger RES. I've been trying to replace the bulbs in the lights above the sink and bar. They are #1076. Once the bulbs go in, there is no way to turn them to tighten and they fall out and break all over the counter!!! Please help.

[MILBY]

we also have a 327 and have replaced the a few times. you have to push in and turn a quarter turn right

[SteveC7010]

At your local auto parts store, pick up a small tube of dielectric grease. Apply a light coating of the grease to the contacts and barrel of the bulb and the inside of the barrel of the socket.

Be sure to completely wipe off any grease on the glass of the bulb. Wash and dry your hands as well before inserting the bulb into the socket.

The bulb should insert and twist much easier, and the dielectric grease will prevent oxidation and corrosion.

I use the stuff on every bulb on the outside of the trailer and my vehicles. Inside the trailer, I use it in the bathroom and kitchen areas, and on any bulb socket that presents problems like yours.

I also thoroughly coat all the contacts in the 7 pin trailer connector on the truck and on the pigtail.

[Handysam]

I have found corrosion on those bulbs on the socket tips, and scraped away the crud and then worked fine. Steve has a good idea with grease.

[Camp I am]

Yes those bulbs if you look up into the socket have to be twisted into the slots for the bulb pins, grease is a good idea along with cleaning that corrosion off of the bulb contacts. Last week I had a puzzling surprise, it looks like the 1076 bulb possibly may be discontinued. I went to two auto parts stores and a lighting store and each one of them didnt have them in stock. They all showed me on their computers that the bulb was discontinued. I think this is strange and not sure if I believe it yet or not but I found a pack of 10 from Amazon so at least I have 9 to burn through after I replace my burnt out one before I have to think of finding an alternative. Anyone else run into this:rolleyes:

[SteveC7010]

The 1142 bulb will work, and I think there are several others. The base is a B15d and there are a number of 12vdc automotive bulbs available in that configuration with a single filament. The difference will be the current draw and light output.

Also, there are a number of LED's available in that bulb configuration as well.

[LarryL]

I replaced the shade with longer shades so when sitting down in living room
light would not be in my eyes shades I got at Lowe's I put led lights
in fixtures leds I got at superbrightleds.com they 1142-w12 cool white
15 degree's

[SteveC7010]

dup post - sorry

[LarryL]

whats dup post?

[SteveC7010]

whats dup post?

Uh, that means a "dup"licate post. My fumbly fingers....

[LarryL]

thanks now I know

[Devildogmom]

At your local auto parts store, pick up a small tube of dielectric grease. Apply a light coating of the grease to the contacts and barrel of the bulb and the inside of the barrel of the socket.

Be sure to completely wipe off any grease on the glass of the bulb. Wash and dry your hands as well before inserting the bulb into the socket.

The bulb should insert and twist much easier, and the dielectric grease will prevent oxidation and corrosion.

I use the stuff on every bulb on the outside of the trailer and my vehicles. Inside the trailer, I use it in the bathroom and kitchen areas, and on any bulb socket that presents problems like yours.

I also thoroughly coat all the contacts in the 7 pin trailer connector on the truck and on the pigtail.

I will try the grease and let you know how it works. :wave:

[suza]

Our 279RKS has the following "chandelier" lamp over the dining table. I am assuming the bulb is the twist and pull out type. Haven't yet determined the bulb number (it's hard to read overhead with bifocals :o )

Has anyone removed this bulb? My concern is, when I do get the bulb loose, there is a rather hefty bolt from the lamp frame sticking up directly under the bulb. Should I put some padding between the bolt and the bulb before attempting to remove the bulb? I'm afraid, if the bulb comes out hard, it might hit the bolt and break :(

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_88702_0_2dde8b413f5eeedea0d1a084acc56c96.jpg[/URL][/IMG]

[PND]

Go to Lowes or Home Depot and in the electrical department, get a tube of "No-Ok" (not sure of spelling), it is an electrical paste that prevents corrosion. We use it on Alum. wire in service panels. Use in in my plugs also.

PND

[suza]

Go to Lowes or Home Depot and in the electrical department, get a tube of "No-Ok" (not sure of spelling), it is an electrical paste that prevents corrosion. We use it on Alum. wire in service panels. Use in in my plugs also.

PND

Thanks, PND. I did finally get the bulb out. Had to push up really hard to get it to release. It helped to use a small piece of non-slip drawer liner to hold onto the bulb. The LED went in easily. I will look for your suggested electrical paste the next time I'm at our "hometown" hardware store. The closest Lowe's and Home Depot are 50 miles away :( The price you pay for living in the country :) Thank goodness for online shopping!

[suza]

The 1142 bulb will work, and I think there are several others. The base is a B15d and there are a number of 12vdc automotive bulbs available in that configuration with a single filament. The difference will be the current draw and light output.

Also, there are a number of LED's available in that bulb configuration as well.

I haven't tried an 1142 incandescent bulb in place of the 1076 in our dining table chandelier, but when I tried replacing the 1076 with an LED (1141/1142 compatible) it blew the fuse, twice :( Perhaps it could be a bad LED bulb.

Has anyone replaced a 1076 with an LED? Did you use a 1141/1142 and did it work?

I see there are LED bulbs for 1076 replacement, but they are 3x the $$$$ as the 1141/42 LED. For now I'm keeping the 1076 regular bulbs. It's not worth $60+ to have LEDs over the dining table. We only use this light occasionally for breakfast, since we often eat lunch and dinner outside.

[nano]

Has anyone replaced a 1076 with an LED? Did you use a 1141/1142 and did it work?


Yes. The bulbs I ordered from Amazon are "LED 2W 12V White Omni Bulb BA15D 1142 1076 Brake Tail 18 5050" and they worked just fine.

[suza]

Yes. The bulbs I ordered from Amazon are "LED 2W 12V White Omni Bulb BA15D 1142 1076 Brake Tail 18 5050" and they worked just fine.

I bought my bulb at our dealer's. It is a Lumi RV 1141. I think I see the problem: It replaces 1156 and 1141 - not 1142. Apparently 1141 and 1142 are not interchangeable and you cannot substitute a 1141 for a 1076.

I'm returning the bulb to the dealer.

Thanks for your help.

[frankyb01]

Just as a point of interest concerning discontinued bulbs, All incandescent bulbs are eventually going to be discontinued, both automotive as well as residential. the process has already started. So we are all going to eventually have to switch over to compatible LED equivalents. Kind of sucks when you start looking at the price difference.

[JRTJH]

If you go to a RV dealership or to an electronics supply house, the LED replacements are relatively expensive. If you check Amazon.com or EBay, there are much cheaper alternatives. Keep in mind that in today's market, all LED's are manufactured in China, so when it comes to "quality for price" if you pay "too much" you still get the same product wrapped in a prettier package. Wise shopping goes a long way with LED's.....

[suza]

If you go to a RV dealership or to an electronics supply house, the LED replacements are relatively expensive. If you check Amazon.com or EBay, there are much cheaper alternatives. Keep in mind that in today's market, all LED's are manufactured in China, so when it comes to "quality for price" if you pay "too much" you still get the same product wrapped in a prettier package. Wise shopping goes a long way with LED's.....

And so goes the politics of marketing :rolleyes:

[rdrunr]

We have a 3 week old Raptor 332TS. While camping this weekend, the bulb in one of the pendant lights blew and turned black. I looked at the bulb and instantly knew that you should be about to simply push it in and turn it slightly to get it out. The problem is, you can't push it in or turn it. I even tried on the good side and could not get that one to push in or turn either.
I am wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem with these bulbs and what did you do about it?

[suza]

We have a 3 week old Raptor 332TS. While camping this weekend, the bulb in one of the pendant lights blew and turned black. I looked at the bulb and instantly knew that you should be about to simply push it in and turn it slightly to get it out. The problem is, you can't push it in or turn it. I even tried on the good side and could not get that one to push in or turn either.
I am wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem with these bulbs and what did you do about it?

I found the twist and turn bulbs difficult, too. Our "chandelier" over the dining table was especially hard to remove the bulbs from because the frame of the light was in the way. My solution was to use a small piece of anti-slip matting to grip the bulb (this also dispelled my fear that the bulb might break in my hand). And, remember, you have to push up while turning to release the bulb from the socket. They are very tight. I believe someone, in an earlier post, recommended using lubricant to prevent corrosion that compounds the problem.

[rdrunr]

It was nothing that a little but of PB Blaster couldn't handle. I gave it a quick shot, let it set for a while and they twisted right out!