Steadyfast system

[Jim & Kay]

After reading many positive comments about the Steadyfast System, we placed our order for one today. Hoping it does all it is advertised to do, will keep you posted. It will be installed on a 2012 Cougar HC 291RLS 5er.

[reubenray]

Let me know how it works. I have also been researching this brand and the J.T. brand. It appears to me that the Steadyfast system only installs on three locations. Where the other brands it appears that they will go on all four jacks and in all directions.

[Str8shooter]

Speaking from experience the SteadyFast system works very well for our 36' toyhauler. It's design is simple and the parts well made from quality steel so there is no need for more than three braces. I especially like the large locking knobs for each brace - easy to tighten and release.

Good luck.

[f6bits]

No more than three braces? Where do you put these three?

[Festus2]

sdayman:
If you go to their website (www.steadyfast.com) you can find out all the information you need to know about this system. There is even a video you can watch to see how it is installed and how it works to keep your unit steady.
Plenty of detailed and additional information about this system and other RV additions and modifications that you have expressed interest in, is usually available and easily accessible by going to the various manufacturers' websites or by simply doing a Google search.

[f6bits]

Thanks, Festus. That *totally* slipped by me, and I’ve checked out their site before. I thought it was $300 for 6 stabilizers, like the Strong Arm and BAL. I didn’t realize that it was just three stabilizers. I dunno, I think more is better.

[msp2jxr]

I have the steadyfast system and It works well and I am very happy with the system. Why would you want to drag more weight around it you don't have too?
IMHO JAY

[kschitoskey]

I specifically chose the Steady Fast because of the longer arms. Longer arms triangulating works very well (I'm sure an engineer can better explain torque moments etc to illustrate the advantages of this design). Must be seen to be believed.

Instructions are thorough and even included drill bits. The owner even included his cell phone # in case you have any questions. I first met the owner at the national rally in ABQ a few years back. I purchased the kit for my 5er, as well as a deep well 9/16 socket with a drill adapter that he was selling. I walked away without the adapter. The owner remembered me, and included it when he shipped me my Steady Fast system. Honesty and integrity - rare these days.

[Jim & Kay]

Got our Steady Fast today, will be a week or so before I am ready to install it but will let you know how easy or difficult the installation is after I complete it. I did order the extra 2 footpads thinking it would give a little more stability.

[reubenray]

That would be perfect timing for me to decide/order them for my new Cougar.

[jq1031]

My TT has electric stabelizers, whereas the arms swing out rather than straight down as in crank jacks......like the theory, but have been told it won't work for me. If any one has them on electric stabelizers weigh in here!

[Str8shooter]

Jim,

I went with two extra footpads also just to keep everything equal. I think it looks better with all pads the same.

Here's a tip for drilling into the trailers I-Beams and keeping the drill bit cool and in good shape; Put cutting oil into a small short cup (I may have used the lid from a can of spray paint) and dip the tip of the bit into it often. It really made drilling up side down much better. A full face shield was a big help keeping the cuttings out of eyes and face. If I recall correctly I believe I clamped the SteadyFast attaching parts to the I-Beams to make certain the holes were properly aligned.

Good luch with your installation!

[reubenray]

With the Steadyfast system will I still need the in-between tires adjustable wheel chocks?

[smabernethy]

I have the steadyfast and it is rock solid.... I do still use an x-chock between the wheels

[jje1960]

I would continue to use the chocks for a bunch of reasons, just my perspective though.

[SteveC7010]

With the Steadyfast system will I still need the in-between tires adjustable wheel chocks?

Yes. The SteadyFast won't prevent the trailer from rolling if you're on a sloped site.

And locking the wheels and tires in place is always the first step in stabilizing an RV.

[Str8shooter]

Bottle jacks. Campco, Walmart $39.00 for four. Put on each side of trailer for and aft of wheels. Stops bouncing from tires and springs. SteadyFast and other systems don't stop this movement.
40 bucks vs 500 bucks. Even a caveman can figure this out.
:rofl:

Really? Speaking from experience? . . . hmmm. Must have watched too many Geico commercials (the caveman thingy - old material). Didn't pay 500 bucks either but as long as you're happy with your $40 investment that's great. If you check around you'll be hard pressed to find any disappointed SteadyFast customers.

I can speak from experience however, that our camper was rock solid under extremely high wind conditions with our SteadyFast setup. The 30 seconds it takes to walk around the 5'ver and lock each brace isn't bad either.

Your 2 cents appreciated however - have fun!

[Jim & Kay]

I have ordered the scissor type wheel chocks from PPL and will use them with the Steady Fast. All info on this forum is greatly appreciated, thank all who have weighed in and any future comments are welcome. Thanks Rick, I will heed your advice.

[reubenray]

The SteadyFast system will most likely be what I order also. I will need to check out the "PPL" that you are ordering the wheel chocks from?

[MILBY]

I think the steadyfasy is getting ordered very soon ( can't install till cougar is out os storage) as for the $40 over the $ 500 I priced it at about $300 and there is no way I would ever pump 4 jacks under my trailer maybe back in the 70's. Tech. has come a long way

[f6bits]

I’d like to install the Steadyfast. If it’s still bouncy, then I’d opt for another set of stabilizers mounted as close to center as possible.

[Str8shooter]

You are too funny!! Hope you like your bouncy trailer. Get some bottle jacks under your springs and your knees will thank you!

Burno4, you silly negative boy. You still don't get it! Geez, I never said your bottle jacks wouldn't work for me, nor did I say it wasn't working for you either. Yet, you continue to infer my SteadyFast setup doesn't work for me. Hang in there pal, tell me enough times I don't know what I'm talking about and just maybe I'll start to believe you. Oh, my knees are just fine thank you.

Again, REALLY! Put down the other guy because his method is different from yours or costs more than yours? Not surprising, however. I just clicked on your username and read your posts; a bit of a naysayer (def: habitually expresses negative or pessimistic views) then a positive contributor to the forum. Was an eye opener for me but now I understand where you're coming from.

Bottom line: We have a wonderful camper, not cheap by any means, so investing (there's an idea) another $350 for a permanent, fast and easy stabilizing system that works very well (there I go lyin' to ya again) was an easy choice. I can't say SteadyFast will work for everyone. Had I spent the money and effort and the system didn't work I would not hesitate to share that view here, either.

Have fun.

[mr.windows1]

Since our trailer is brand new and have not been camping yet will the steadyfast system be nessasary for coaches with the 6 point leveling system? I know in our TT the movement drove us crazy I was under the impression that the 6 points would really help in this matter anyone have experiance with this yet

[Str8shooter]

I'm uncertain if you will benefit from the Steadyfast System. . .I will say however, the Montana fifth wheel you have is dandy! The Ford 6.7L diesel is a great TV also.

You might benefit by giving Paul Hanscom the company owner and engineer behind the Steadyfast product a call. Their web site, www.steadyfast.com/ has the contact info. I purchased my set up directly from Mr. Hanscom here in Bakersfield, CA a year ago at an RV and outdoor show. I believe he is the kind of person who will give you an honest, straight forward answer whether or not your coach will benefit from the system. I asked all sorts of questions before buying and he was most willing to answer each one. You get impressions when you spend a bit of time with people and I found Mr. Hanscom to be genuine and very helpful.

Again, wonderful 5'er you have there and I hope you have many great memories from your travels with it.

[mr.windows1]

Thanks Str8Shooter,cant wait to get her out and test all the bells and whistles so to speak i will check the steadyfast system out and call with my questions

[SteveC7010]

Since our trailer is brand new and have not been camping yet will the steadyfast system be nessasary for coaches with the 6 point leveling system? I know in our TT the movement drove us crazy I was under the impression that the 6 points would really help in this matter anyone have experiance with this yet

Str8shooter gave you some good advice.

Let me add that you really don't need to make a firm decision (and purchase) about added stabilization before you take it out camping. An add-on like this isn't an absolute necessity anyway, and since you're getting the 6 point auto-leveling system, it may be prudent to use the trailer a bit to see if you feel you need the SteadyFast system.

I know we need it on our rig, but we don't the auto-level system. We used the trailer for a week or so before putting it away for the winter so we were able to see for ourselves if it was needed before buying.

[Ron]

Since our trailer is brand new and have not been camping yet will the steadyfast system be nessasary for coaches with the 6 point leveling system? I know in our TT the movement drove us crazy I was under the impression that the 6 points would really help in this matter anyone have experiance with this yet

Hello Mr.windows1, our 6 point level up system is fantastic as we are in AZ at the present time using it. There is very little movement inside the trailer. Be sure you read instructions very carefully when unhooking and then pressing the auto level as trailer will dip in the front end to start the leveling process. Happy Campin.........Ron

[mr.windows1]

Thank guys, I did briefly get a chance to use the 6 point system while it was home while we were loading our things into the new coach it seemed very stable but then again I wasnt just sitting in it when you would really be able to tell.I did find myself using manual mode the short time it was here before we put her to sleep it is quite the system and im sure i will learn more when we get her out, thanks for all the advice, it is very valueable as it is real world advice!!

[SAABDOCTOR]

HI MR.WINDOWS! I WOULD HOLD OFF ON THE STEADY FAST TILL YOU USE IYOU 5ER AND SEE IF YOU NEED IT. I DO NOT HAVE THE 6 POINT LEVEL SYSTEM (RATS) BUT WITH THE TRIPOD UP FRONT IT DID NOT MOVE TO MUCH! I HATE THE TRIPOD SO I BOUGHT A STEADY FAST. BUT I WAS IN A 6 POINT AT THE DEALERSHIP AND IT SURE FELT ROCKSOILD! SO MABY WITH SOME LUCK YOU CAN PUT THAT MONEY INTO ANOTHER ADVENTURE. BARNEY:bdance:

[2011 keystone]

Igor4 & bruno4 Hmmmmmmmmmmmm

[hankpage]

Igor4 & bruno4 Hmmmmmmmmmmmm

My little moderator fingers can only work so fast. And Steve thanks for the heads up. :thumbsup:

[SteveC7010]

My little moderator fingers can only work so fast. And Steve thanks for the heads up. :thumbsup:

Sadly, I fear we've still not heard the last of him.

[reubenray]

Jim & Kay,

How was the install on your Cougar? We picked up our 291 yesterday and I looked at the underbelly good today. I could not see where to bolt onto the frame without having to cut the underbelly. Am I looking at the wrong locations?

[Jim & Kay]

No Reuben, I did not have to cut any part of the underbelly. The system comes with great instructions, I'm sure you won't have any problem with the installation. I installed the rear parts first but don't think it would matter,if you installed the front parts first. I installed mine with 6" blocks under the rear jacks and plan to carry the blocks with me, couldn't see extending the rear jacks all the way to the ground. The blocks did not change the rock solid stability with the Steadyfast.

[reubenray]

I looked again and I "do not see the frame". My Cougar has the Polar Express underbelly insulation so am wondering if this is different than yours.

In my post above yours I left out the word "not".

[SteveC7010]

I looked again and I "do not see the frame". My Cougar has the Polar Express underbelly insulation so am wondering if this is different than yours.

In my post above yours I left out the word "not".
There are a number of threads on the underbelly cover that tell all about dropping a portion of it to do things like add the SteadyFast system.

Search on "coroplast" without the quotes, too, as that is the correct name for the material.

[Tim&Patty]

Reuben,
Trust me there is a frame and if ya look in the right places you'll find it. In the front both propane tanks on the bottom open to the frame (any leaking gas sinks and exits outside) that part of the visible frame will be one of your attaching points (I believe Jim went from the drivers side frame to the passenger side foot plate, I went the other way) On the rear the stair opening and the bumper attchement are visible access along with opening the slide gives you a great view. Another hint is the coroplast is attached on the inside of the I-beam with the body skirting screwed to the outside.

The instructions are good, RHDW loved them, me being the typical Anal Retentive Alpha Male doesn't read instructions (nor maps or ask for directions) found the pictures perfect :bdance:

Instead of oil for the screws I used LocTite on the threads, 1/2 electric drill (I only use battery powered for wood projects around the house) FACE SHIELD a must, long straws = saves job time, didn't have to roll out from under her for my 2 drilled holes=1 cold beverage. Heck with a 3 hour install, took me two days:rofl:

[Dutch & Di]

Keep in mind that the Level up and the Big Foot are just that-leveling systems.
They DO offer some stabilization but for us it was not enough and we continue to use our plug it right stabilizers. Before BF we were quite stable. After BF install we were somewhat stable but not enough for Mama to be happy and you know what happens when "Mamma Ain't Happy" so the stabilizers went back on. The only time we use any type of chock if if we are unlevel ground. Di

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Pulled the trigger, ordered my Steady-fast Thursday. Supposed to be here Monday. Ordered the set with extra feets.
Got some freh batteries for my DeWalt drill. the old ones were 9 years old and would have a hard time pullin' knotted string outta a wildcat's a&& with a 50 yard head start... :rolleyes:.
The Parl manager is going to drag his weilder down to my site to attach the rear frame mount to the sliding rack's slide frame like 66ken did here;

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4262&page=2

Should have'er done sometime next week..

hankaye

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Seems the weilder isn't as portable as we thought ... :rolleyes:

So, I'm just going to have it done (weilded), the day before I leave to
return to Utah. To much hassel taken down and puttin' up the skirting,
and un-hooking and re-hooking the trailer for a 10 minute weilding job
... just to do it all again for the trip. Should be the last week in April.

I promise to take pix and post'em.

hankaye

[GaryAnnaW062378]

We have the Steadyfast System on our Cougar 318SAB. It is totally awesome..stopped 100% of the sideways shaking we had in our 5th wheel. It was so bad. Feel very slight tire movement. Good luck with your Steadyfast system. Paul Hanscom is awesome to deal with also.

[dave-g]

Well I have ordered mine- should be here on Friday.

[Str8shooter]

Dave . . . you will never regret the investment you've made in your SteadyFast system. Simplicity and performance at its best!

Have fun.

[blackty]

Had the Steadyfast on our Chaparral for a year. Took it off and put the front set on saturday at the campground. Had the rear bracket modified to bolt onto the bumper slideout channel. I used two of the extra 'L' brackets from the kit and had them welded to the wing nut bracket. Wire wheeled it down and hit it with a coat of Rustoleum. Will get long bolts, washers and nuts so I can bolt through the bumper bracket. I'll take pictures of the rear install if anyone is interested...Jim

[hankaye]

blackty, Howdy;

By all means.. take plenty ... up close and personnal like......

Thanks much in advance.

hankaye

[blackty]

Ok, here we go...

This picture is of one of the three brackets that came with the Steadyfast kit. They would be used on a "C" type frame rv, not used on the "I" beam.
http://s879.photobucket.com/albums/ab356/blackty100/?action=view&current=100_0889.jpg

I measured the width of the channel that the bike rack slides into. Then cut one bracket so that when the two "L" were put together, they were tight. Then had the two "L" pieces welded to the wingnut bracket. I marked and drilled for the mounting bolts.
http://s879.photobucket.com/albums/ab356/blackty100/?action=view&current=100_0886.jpg

I used stainless hardware. The picture didn't come out as well as I had hoped, but I'll try my best to explain the sequence of hardware and bracket...
Bolt head--bracket--slide channel--flat washer--nut--threads inside of channel--nut--washer--slide channel--bracket--washer--nut
I did this so that the channel could not get disformed by tightening the bracket too much. Keep in mind that the bike rack is in the extended position with the bracket installed. I moved the spare tire to the pass through storage. Any questions, ask away...Jim

[hankaye]

blackty, Howdy;

Ok, here we go...

This picture is of one of the three brackets that came with the Steadyfast kit. They would be used on a "C" type frame rv, not used on the "I" beam.
http://s879.photobucket.com/albums/ab356/blackty100/?action=view&current=100_0889.jpg

I measured the width of the channel that the bike rack slides into. Then cut one bracket so that when the two "L" were put together, they were tight. Then had the two "L" pieces welded to the wingnut bracket. I marked and drilled for the mounting bolts.
http://s879.photobucket.com/albums/ab356/blackty100/?action=view&current=100_0886.jpg

Those carriage bolts that you have securing to 'L' brackets ... do they interfer with the slideing POS (fancy techie term for sliding tray)? What 'grade' rating are they (carriage bolts). Why not just weild the 'L' brackets to the slide channel ?????
Just a few questions that popped into my head. I'll close this here before I ask enough to make ya angry. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the pix...

hankaye

[blackty]

Yes, it absolutely interferes with the bike rack slide. My bike rack stays out. I can't weld and my camper is an hour and a half away. (too far to ask someone to drive for 5 min. of work). Grade, don't know, not a safety concern. Hope that answered your questions. I'm too easy going to get angry over a couple of questions, don't sweat it...Jim

[hankaye]

blackty, Howdy;

Sometimes I have to stop myself or I start rattiling off questions till
even the Pope would lose patience ..... I know ... he's a busy guy
has a ton of other problems other than mine ...

I don't weild either, however the manager of this Park does and the machine is about 100 yds. away.

Did you have to trim the angles any ???

How much of the cloroplast did you have to peel back for the front sections???

Oops, there I go again :o

Thanks for the help.

hankaye

[blackty]

Approx. 1/4" from one of the "L" brackets. Didn't peel any of the chloroplast away...Jim

[hankaye]

blackty, Howdy;

Sorry to be a pest (or PITA, whichever fits best for you...),
When youtrimmed one of the 'L' brackets ...was that on the
horizontal plane???
Hopefully this will be the last question... :o

I'm asking alot of questions because I still have my skirting up
and am waiting till I get ready to move back to Utah before I;
A) remove skirting and, B) get the brackets weilded on.
Again, many thanks for your patience.

hankaye

[blackty]

Yes, if you look at the "L" bracket, one side has two holes and the other side has one. If you were to put the one hole sides down flat making a "U" with the two hole sides facing opposite each other, I trimmed about 1/4" from ONE of the one hole sides. You could certainly trim more, but make sure the measurements are accurate. It was easier to cut the brackets exact and hold together with vice grips and take to welder as one piece to eliminate possible mistakes. I hope this makes sense...Jim

Oh, by the way, fold your skirt back down. You are scaring the children.j/k

[hankaye]

blackty, Howdy;

Thanks Bud...

Think I'll get the sharpies out and give the skirting a checkerboard design and call it a Kilt.....:bdance:

hankaye

[SteveC7010]

Brought the Cougar home yesterday (Friday), and spent most of today installing the SteadyFast. I figured out how to fasten the main clamp bracket to the underside of the track for the slide out bike rack without interfering with the in/out movement of the rack. Took a bit of filing and drilling, but it works pretty well.

The whole process would have been a lot faster if I had a second battery on hand for the cordless drill. I had to take several breaks while the battery recharged. Time to get the Li-Ion batteries, I think.

Like several others, I did not cut away the coroplast or the aluminum pan that both fasten to the frame rail. The bracket sits just fine on top of them, held in place with the four bolts.

I drilled out the holes in the frame rails in steps starting with a 1/8" bit and working up to the 17/64" needed for the self tapping bolts. Drilling in steps is much easier and requires far less effort.

I have an old Makita electric impact wrench that I found invaluable for running in the bolts that fasten to the frame rail. I highly recommend having one on hand when installing the SteadyFast.

I was very pleased with overall ease of installation and the quality of the parts and materials.

[dave-g]

Installed mine sat morning in about 3 hours. Last night gave it a test. Not wiggle free, but 95% better. Very nice quality.

[hankaye]

SteveC7010, Howdy;

Courious about the effect that the compression (or lack of), of the coloroplast.....

Got pix ???????

Will be gratefully appericated.

hankaye

PS. Pix of BOTH front & Rear.....

[SteveC7010]

SteveC7010, Howdy;

Courious about the effect that the compression (or lack of), of the coloroplast.....

Got pix ???????

Will be gratefully appericated.

hankaye

PS. Pix of BOTH front & Rear.....

Here we go....

First, the front of the trailer with everything installed:

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_34214_0_9c0fdfea666337d225016c15606ad3a4.jpg

Then a side view of the front install:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_34214_1_41896f821e9809ad5b31a465b035b01d.jpg

Closeup of the front locking mechanism. This one bolted right to the frame with nothing in the way. I did have to shim up one side because the plate that forms the floor of the front compartment only covered half of the I beam. A couple of flat washers fixed that:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_34214_2_4a501af0dc8278178091d48c7ef69c4a.jpg

The side one is the only one that has fender and coroplast in the way. I dropped enough of the fender to check for wires and such on each side of the beam. Then I accurately measured the beam location, buttoned it back up, marked my first hole, drilled it, and ran in the first bolt. Then I just drilled out the other three holes and ran in the bolts. The aluminum skin of the fender and coroplast compressed tightly, and I am very confident that nothing is going to loosen up over time:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_34214_3_0801ab752991bc1c6f8d17bfbb37f720.jpg

See next post for the rear install.

[SteveC7010]

This is the rear locking mechanism. I shot several pics from different angles:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_34216_0_1bd232ae168d748902001a687c1bb3c1.jpg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_34216_1_a89d31ce4eca2ebbf14b452670271ae0.jpg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_34216_2_9284827f36e4dd9d801b3d3d442f5a83.jpg

There's a mounting plate below the track for the sliding bike thingie. It has some holes in it already so with a little bit of filing, I got two of the holes in the SteadyFast bracket to line up with the bracket on the trailer. There's enough clearance between the rail of the bike bracket and the plate that I could insert bolts from the top, and they would not interfere with the sliding action. I had to drill a third hole in the SteadyFast bracket, too. I ran a nut on each bolt to space things down a quarter of an inch or so and then fastened in the SteadyFast bracket.

Since the whole rail system for the sliding bike rack is made up of stamped sheet metal, there's probably a limit to its lateral strength, and I suspect the SteadyFast bracket way exceeds that. So I felt that three bolts instead of four would be adequate. If I notice any signs of stress on the Cougar sheet metal bracketry, I think I'll consider a whole different mounting plan, or add another SteadyFast arm going the other way across the back. Adding another SteadyFast arm should theoretically reduce the stress on the existing mount by half.

Comments on installation:

I am not sure how I could have dealt with the self-tapping 5/16" bolts for the two mounts in the front if I did not have the impact wrench. They were tough to get started, even with the Makita. And they were almost as tough to run down tight. If I had to do that by hand, I think I would have drilled the holes out and used nuts on the top side of the flange of the I beams.

I took my time figuring out the mounting issue with the sliding bike rack in the rear so the whole job probably took around 5 hours. But then, I am not as limber as I used to be so crawling under the trailer and back out is not quite as fast as it used to be. :( I spent most of the day on it with time out for lunch, coffee, and to respond on an ambulance call.

SteadyFast includes plenty of nuts and bolts for a variety of installation choices. I still needed to add some 5/16" flat washers and hex nuts because of the custom mount in the back, but was to be expected.

[hankaye]

SteveC7010, Howdy;

Thanks kind Sir. I'm realizing that there are more than one way to skin the cat (told me he won't mind till I get to #7 or 8).
One question (again), on the front set you have the feet turned (or it appears so), sideways to what is showen on the web site and your cross tube is running 'between' the legs of the landing gear. Is there some reason that you chose to do so ??? Not being critical, just courious.

Thanks again for takin' the time to go rollin' 'round and takin' the pictures.

hankaye

[SteveC7010]

Thanks kind Sir. I'm realizing that there are more than one way to skin the cat (told me he won't mind till I get to #7 or 8).
One question (again), on the front set you have the feet turned (or it appears so), sideways to what is showen on the web site and your cross tube is running 'between' the legs of the landing gear. Is there some reason that you chose to do so ??? Not being critical, just courious.

I positioned the front feet to match the picture in the instruction sheets. Thinking about, it probably doesn't really matter which way they are pointed.

I placed the tube mounts on the feet so that the one that runs parallel to the frame rail would not cross the one that runs between the frame rails when raised for travel. There wasn't enough frame forward of the landing gear to mount the clamping bracket so I went behind just a tad.

I probably could have moved the foot end of the front tube to the inner mounting point on the foot, and may yet do so. Again, I think there is a lot room for variation in this system without affecting performance. As far as I can tell, minor variations in positioning like you noted don't change the way the system works in the least. Paul Hansen of SteadyFast did a remarkable job of designing a product that is adaptable to almost any installation needs.

[dave-g]

I positioned the front feet to match the picture in the instruction sheets. Thinking about, it probably doesn't really matter which way they are pointed.



I think you got yourself turned around in the pictures- I installed mine this weekend and the "t" part is shown pointing in towards the center of the rv. As long as the cross bar does not hit the leg I do not think it would matter.

For me It would matter as I found a good place to mount to the frame that was not 90 degrees from the foot.

Good write up and pictures- I also went on top of plastic and sheet metal. When on the sheet metal I used washers to level the mount.

[gkainz]

I thought I read on the steadyfast site instructions that the orientation of the foot was installer's choice and didn't really matter.

[gkainz]

Sorry, auto correct bites again -steadyfast not steadfast. And I just found "edit" on tapatalk, corrected the auto correct but don't see a "delete" option

[Scarpo]

I just ordered my Steadyfast last Friday; I am excited to get it installed. Does anyone have a recommendation for what type of wheel chocks work best with Steadyfast? I just purchased my fiver so I am still gearing up and don't have wheel chocks yet.

[dave-g]

Some photos of the install. I need to zip tie the gas line back so it does not rub the brace.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_34500_0_af8e7700795445bfa81b994d1beac6c5.jpg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_34500_1_21ae9c2020e50bdbe69995baed2bee20.jpg

[hankaye]

dave-g, Howdy;

Thanks for showing a 'hidden hazard'. Nice pix.
What's the rear brace look like (attach points)?


Thanks

hankaye

[dave-g]

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_35213_0_d47fc9e3426b75e20826fd8af7a60232.jpg

rear brace - attached to tube that goes to the bumper. Jack is up, that is why the bar looks level.

[hankaye]

dave-g, Howdy;

Thanks for the pic. Do you have one of the sliding 'bike rack'
thingies ? From the words you used I'm not sure...
Would you be so kind as to enlighten me/us ...

Thanks Bud, appericate it.

hankaye

[dave-g]

mine is a cougar 325srx toy hauler- no bike rack I have a garage!

Take the plunge on the steadyfast you will be happy you did.

[Scarpo]

I installed my Steadyfast system last night, took me 4 hours. There were a few mistakes that I made that slowed me down a little. One big one was I don't have a tow vehicle because we are seasonal campers so I had to rig up some blocks in the bed of my 1500 sierra pickup and lower the trailer down until the landing gear was off the ground so I could change the foot pad. That with a few other minor items cost me about an hour. I actually didn't even walk inside yet to test how it works since I got done around 8:30 last night. I will let everyone know my opinion on how effective it is later today.
I can say that the quality of the material if first rate, they give you plenty of fasteners and mounting options. I had a new cordless drill that worked great and a Bosch cordless driver that was fantastic to install the bolts. Those tools helped make the install fast.

[hankaye]

dave-g, Howdy;

Thanks for the reply and clarification.
I have already purchased a kit from Steady-fast.
As I full-time, and need to weild (I think so), the rear
bracket to the 'bike rack' I'm having that done today
in a few hours. Getting ready to re-locate
back to Utah, so this is also a 'test pack-up and systems
check'.

hankaye

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Update;

Had the weilding done yesterday. went with the stright to the channel
that the sliding tray (?), slides in and out in. Looks just like;

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4262&page=2

Post #18... We also weilded the new 'feet' (I bought 4), to the rear Satbilizer feet as they are the round ones and very thick.
I'll drill and mount the front system next week when I get back to Utah.
Pull out in the Morning....

hankaye

[2011 keystone]

Hankaye have a safe trip home:wave:

[jwv]

i just installed steadyfast on my 39ft toy hauler. back from a short camping trip. Had 3 adults and 3 teenagers sleeping in it and not once was awakened by the trailer rocking. very stable.