PDA

View Full Version : New Outlet Install In Bedroom


trailerdayschris
10-19-2021, 02:51 PM
We have a 2015 Coachmen Express 248RBS, and we have replaced the mounted tv with a mini projector which is mounted above the top of the bed (between the led lights).

As the only outlets are beside the bed and one on the ceiling, I was wondering if anyone has installed new outlets above the bed or in the wardrobes? How difficult would it be?

chuckster57
10-19-2021, 03:43 PM
Welcome to the forum :wlcm:

The problem will be running the Romex without it showing. If you donít care then any big box hardware store will the Romex and cover to route it up the wall.

I would consider how itís going to look, if you think there is a chance you might want to trade it in or sell it.

quaddriver
10-19-2021, 06:32 PM
it can be done, in fact, we put away after weekend next and I got some projects lined up. For an RV, you must use stranded wire and as such crimp connections. (if you want to stay with code) I dont know of any rv parts store that will give you much more than dumb stares, a good mariner store (good luck finding) have the equipment to do cruisers. THHN 12g stranded is easy at lowes or HD, but you gotta buy half a damn mile. from a marine dealer, 100ft of triplex (3 conductors) will run about $1/ft, but it starts at 100ft. but it is tinned copper. use speed receps for stranded wire, but if you use a solid wire recep, use crimps to terminate the wire, SOLDER them, then screw it on. (just did a quick search and have zero source for stranded wire receps anywhere near me - typical, as diy skill drop to zero no one stocks jack....search amazon

chuckster57
10-19-2021, 06:35 PM
it can be done, in fact, we put away after weekend next and I got some projects lined up. For an RV, you must use stranded wire and as such crimp connections. (if you want to stay with code) I dont know of any rv parts store that will give you much more than dumb stares, a good mariner store (good luck finding) have the equipment to do cruisers. THHN 12g stranded is easy at lowes or HD, but you gotta buy half a damn mile. from a marine dealer, 100ft of triplex (3 conductors) will run about $1/ft, but it starts at 100ft. but it is tinned copper. use speed receps for stranded wire, but if you use a solid wire recep, use crimps to terminate the wire, SOLDER them, then screw it on. (just did a quick search and have zero source for stranded wire receps anywhere near me - typical, as diy skill drop to zero no one stocks jack....search amazon

Stranded for all 110VAC wiring in an RV?

Just askinÖ:confused:

trailerdayschris
10-19-2021, 06:40 PM
Thanks for all the replies, and the welcome :)

My plan is to split one of the current outlets and run the new cables up to where the lights are so we have an outlet above our bed or maybe just in the wardrobe.

My biggest unknown is where all the wiring goes, as I think it all goes behind the wardrobe and down into the trailer somewhere. I have had a look online for resources but cant seem to find anything helpful.

Here is what we are currently doing, but it involves running an extension cord from the side of the bed up into one of the wardrobes. Not very nice.

https://i.imgur.com/EpckoY0.png

chuckster57
10-19-2021, 06:45 PM
Take the outlet your going to tap into out and you should get an idea which way the Romex runs.

quaddriver
10-19-2021, 06:49 PM
Stranded for all 110VAC wiring in an RV?

Just askinÖ:confused:
'sposed to be for rvs and boats - if it moves it vibrates etc etc.


im gonna make no promises for todays rv oems however...but I did notice the umbilical moving for my slide last trip so thats stranded.


the recep problem is the wire twisted around the screw spreads . some recepts have a back plate that pulls towards the screw - not at all unlike the trailer plug or recep for the 7pin connection...


I will be wiring in a recep, cig plug, and 200-ish w inverter into the wall space to the side of the converter in my 290

travelin texans
10-19-2021, 08:44 PM
I can say 100% that my last 2 5th wheels was 14 gauge solid copper wire as I replaced faulty GFCI plugs in both.
I did add a shallow construction box to each & used standard GFCI plugs rather than the cheap a## press in wire type RV plugs.

Falcon67
10-21-2021, 12:44 PM
I would expect normal "romex" 12 or 14 gauge solid. IMHO should be wired like a house, no different. I'd leave the stranded for 12V runs with crimp connections. If the crimp is done correctly with the proper tool, no solder needed.

quaddriver
10-21-2021, 01:58 PM
I can say 100% that my last 2 5th wheels was 14 gauge solid copper wire as I replaced faulty GFCI plugs in both.
I did add a shallow construction box to each & used standard GFCI plugs rather than the cheap a## press in wire type RV plugs.


believe it or not there is actually no all reaching LAW governing this. the NFPA code has to be adopted by the AHJ - and to whom does that apply? the manu? where you park it? There is a reason they build a crap ton of these in IN and OH - lax lax lax! Current 2020 NFPA 1192 code simply references the NFPA 70 and section 551 and 400 govern what you must do.


smart cookie OEMs, who dont cut corners, use stranded for RV and marine units simply because of the constant movement. You can do NM (dont say romex, romex is a trade name for non mettalic sheathed cable. Use NM or equiv) solid cable, but according to section 551 and 400 it has to be in rigid conduit (non mettalic ok) or constantly supported and grommeted at every pass thru. did any OEM REALLY do that? I have only had 2 of my previous 4 coaches apart in the 120v section...the 86 prowler and the 93 winnie. These were both (at the time) TOTL consumer units and before the age of 'cheapen everything to the point of instant failure' we currently enjoy. I modified both and both used stranded and the proper boxes. Like I said, I do not trust todays OEMS unless you are buying a $2M Prevost. And indeed, not one post in all of IRV2 is complaining that travel trailers are built too well.



if you want to use a 'goes both way' box, look for one that is rear terminating AND side terminating. It will have that plate I spoke of that will pull a stranded wire into the contact surface and will not 'squish' out conductors. You are gonna pay a lot more per unit, but its not like you are wiring a 3000sf home.... The rear attaching jabber boxes just use tension...and tension relaxes a few years down the road...



as for soldering crimped connections...this isnt a car stereo. its household current carrying equipment that just traveled 400 miles over dreamlike-smooth roads (<---that was sarcasm) I would not want a live conductor to get loose whilst in bed at night. the whole NFPA was built about those 'what ifs...' that never happen right?

flybouy
10-21-2021, 05:01 PM
I don't think you'll find 120v ac run with standed wire unless it's to a connect a slide-out in any Keystone product. If I'm misteaken someone please post some pictures.

rjniles
10-28-2021, 07:46 AM
The floor of the over the bed cabinets is a chase to run wiring, there is about a 1.5" gap between the cabinet floor and the ceiling the lights are mounted on. I would tap into one of the receptacles in the bed side night stands, run it up inside the wardrobe and drill into the wire chase. Pull the wire out to the center location and surface mount a Wiremold receptacle box. Cover the wire in the wardrobe with plastic Wiremold conduit.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Wiremold-Non-Metallic-PVC-Raceway-5-ft-Wire-Channel-White-NMW1/100038290#overlay

Use NM Romex cable, 14-2 if a 15 amp circuit, 12-2 if a 20 amp circuit.

trailerdayschris
10-28-2021, 11:41 AM
Thanks for all the responses, gives me a great places to start. Feel alot more confident in this modification now :)

bigdave_185
10-28-2021, 06:49 PM
I can promise every piece of electrical communication equipment I built and designed that is in everything from black hawks, f22, submarines and aircraft carries, predators and reapers all have crimped connections. Not to discredit solder but crimping is ISO certified and standard practice in level 1 electronic.

Crimp away my friend solder is way over kill.

Every connection in the tow vehicle is almost certainly crimped powering the ECm and TCm

Your solder connections in the truck are on the ac control, dash junk and so forth

chuckster57
10-28-2021, 07:00 PM
Having been into the “guts” of RV’s between the price range of $5,000.00 and $900,000.00 over a decade+, the only place I have encountered stranded 110VAC is when it carries said current to a slide. It is a “molex” plug at each end and the other side is in fact solid copper wire.

I can’t speak to Prevost, because I haven’t had the pleasure ( or misfortune) to have to do any surgery. I will also say, anywhere there is a junction box, said solid copper wires are secured with wire nuts. Haven’t run into a single 110VAC connection that was soldered, or even butt connected.

rhagfo
10-28-2021, 10:25 PM
Having been into the “guts” of RV’s between the price range of $5,000.00 and $900,000.00 over a decade+, the only place I have encountered stranded 110VAC is when it carries said current to a slide. It is a “molex” plug at each end and the other side is in fact solid copper wire.

I can’t speak to Prevost, because I haven’t had the pleasure ( or misfortune) to have to do any surgery. I will also say, anywhere there is a junction box, said solid copper wires are secured with wire nuts. Haven’t run into a single 110VAC connection that was soldered, or even butt connected.

Could do a multiple quote, but it is obvious of those that have worked on the 120/240 volt wiring in their RVs.
The only stranded in our 5er is the connection to the slide, from a j-box to a j-box, stranded would not work well in the outlets used in RVs.

Walnuts
10-29-2021, 05:31 AM
I bet that wardrobe has a false bottom. I ran reading lights above the bed to replace the beacon of a light that was there originally. Found it to have a false bottom, drill holes where you want the location of the projector and fish the wires through.

bigdave_185
10-29-2021, 08:22 AM
I bet that wardrobe has a false bottom. I ran reading lights above the bed to replace the beacon of a light that was there originally. Found it to have a false bottom, drill holes where you want the location of the projector and fish the wires through.


Can you post a picture of your reading lights? Iíd like to get rid of the center light to something much less in the eyes of both people

Falcon67
10-29-2021, 08:34 AM
>Haven’t run into a single 110VAC connection that was soldered, or even butt connected.

No soldered connections on my race cars, all crimp. Some exceptions might be a wire splice but those are rare and home runs are preferred. Solder induces stiffness at the joint and that doesn't ride well with vibration. One of my cars is a hard tail dragster, which means the "suspension" is the 7.5 lbs of air in the 33x15 back tires. It's the very definition of vibration LOL.