Water heater not working? Outback 210URS

[Natej30]

Hey everybody, I'm new to this group. We were getting our water set up and the water heater is not producing hot water.

The water tank is full, water pump is working, and water comes out of the sink when we turn on the hot water and also when we turn on the cold water, the only problem is hot water is not coming out.

I hit the reset button on the back of the water heater, for both electric and propane, I've tried doing just electric for the water heater, and I've tried doing just propane for the water heater, I haven't tried both.

I also tried releasing water from the pressure release valve, but nothing comes out. So I don't know if that means there's no water in the water heater section or if there's just no pressure so no water is coming out the pressure release valve.

I don't even know if there's any water in the water heater reservoir or how that whole water heater system even works.

Everything is properly screwed into the water heater, there was that long metal rod that might be called an anode or something, and that is hand tightened in with one slight turn with a wrench.

It appears that all the valves are turned on underneath the couch as well, we had to take off the front paneling under the couch the access.

Help! We are camping in 3 days

[travelin texans]

If you're not getting water out the pressure relief that indicates no water in the tank. I'd guess the valves are set to bypass on the back of the water heater & if so you've burnt up the electric heating element until replaced it'll only heat on gas if/when you get it full of water.

[jsb5717]

I'm not familiar with your trailer's configuration. There must be some kind of Convenience Center or area where the water goes into the trailer. Check the settings there for the Bypass that Danny mentioned.

[wiredgeorge]

First thing... turn off propane and electric to water heater. Step two is take the panel off the inside covering the rear of the water heater. Step three turn the bypass valve so it points in direction of the pex going into the water heater. Step four: Let the water heater fill to where you get water out of the pressure relief valve when you open it a tad on the outside. Step 5, turn on just the propane by activating the toggle switch on the inside. A light will come on, you will hear the propane light. Step 6, open hot water tap nearest the propane heater and nothing will come out. Let it stay open as there is air in the lines and it take awhile to purge. You will get a dribble of water and after awhile it will flow. Do the same for the other taps progressively farther away. Step 7: you can now try the electric heat which may or may not work as it may be burned up. If it is burned up it won't have tripped the breaker but the electric element doesn't like to be on when the tank is empty. They are simple to change, if need be.

[Natej30]

I checked certainly where all the tubing is at valves and the bypasses and every valve is in the open position. And outside where the water heater access is to flip the on/off switch and to remove the metal rod, there's no valve there. So at this point I have full access to the water heater on both sides and cannot find a valve.

I must have to continue searching.

[Natej30]

The water heater never got hot, so even when I had the electric turned on for the power source to take the water heater it never even got warm. There's a chance I could have damaged it I suppose, but I only had it on for about 2 hours.

[Javi]

The water heater never got hot, so even when I had the electric turned on for the power source to take the water heater it never even got warm. There's a chance I could have damaged it I suppose, but I only had it on for about 2 hours.

Take a cell phone photo of the back of your water heater and post it...

Or... See the BLUE PEX line running to the bottom of the water heater... put you hand on it and move your hand until it contacts the PEX line going up to the RED line coming from the top of the water heater... at that junction where the blue PEX meets the line going UP there will be a valve... it's probably on the side away from you but it's there...

[JRTJH]

I checked certainly where all the tubing is at valves and the bypasses and every valve is in the open position. And outside where the water heater access is to flip the on/off switch and to remove the metal rod, there's no valve there. So at this point I have full access to the water heater on both sides and cannot find a valve.

I must have to continue searching.

It will look like this and will be located at the point where the PEX connection goes INTO the bottom of the water heater on the inside of the trailer. Look for a PEX elbow with a handle on it. It's there, and hard to see, especially if the valve is installed so the valve handle is toward the water heater tank. In the first photo it's turned away from the tank and easy to see.

In the second photo, you can barely see the handle. It's located "on the water heater tank side" of the valve that's attached to the vertical PEX tube, about 4" to the right of the 90 degree elbow that's screwed into the water heater inlet port.

[Natej30]

Good chance I'm just missing something, so I have photos of the water storage compartment and a photo of the water heater from the outside.

To recap, water flows fine through faucets from both the hot water faucet and the cold water faucet, but the water is just not hot. And when I release the pressure release valve no water comes out, but I think that's because there's no pressure from heat in the water heater.

The logical side of me would think the water heater temperature is turned all the way down, but for my research there is no temperature control on the water heater so that's not it.

[JRTJH]

In your third photo there are two valves, one on the blue PEX where it connects to the water heater "cold inlet" and one on the red PEX where it connects to the water heater "hot outlet". BOTH of those valves are used to either divert water into/out of the water heater (normal operation) or to divert water away from the water heater (winterize function). That is your "water heater bypass system".

Turn those valves so they "match positions". To get cold water into the water heater, the lower valve must flow into the cold water inlet. To get hot water out of the water heater, the top valve must flow out of the hot water outlet....

In the photo, your valves are in the "winterize position" and water is bypassing the water heater. It is flowing through the white tubing, bypassing the water heater. Turn those valves 1/4 turn so the handles are pointing toward the water heater connections and the tank will fill with cold water. Then turn on the gas switch and the water heater should "fire to heat water". You'll need to troubleshoot your electric element to see if it's working. Chances are by energizing it with an empty water heater tank, it's burned up. Replacements are available at Lowe's, Home Depot, any RV parts store or most local hardware stores... Take the old one with you so the clerk can match the size and wattage. It's a 120 VAC, 1100 watt element.

The instructions on how to operate the winterize bypass are shown in your photo on the white square label that's attached to the white bypass hose. Follow those instructions that show you how to position the valves for "normal operation" or for "winter bypass".....

[jsb5717]

Doesn't the bottom valve need to be turned 1/4 turn to divert water into the tank? Looks to me like it is set to bypass the tank, looping straight to the upper hot water pipe rather than through the tank.


Perhaps the upper valve also needs to be turned 1/4 turn as well so that it will pull water from the tank.



I could be wrong but that's how it looks from the pics

[Javi]

Good chance I'm just missing something, so I have photos of the water storage compartment and a photo of the water heater from the outside.

To recap, water flows fine through faucets from both the hot water faucet and the cold water faucet, but the water is just not hot. And when I release the pressure release valve no water comes out, but I think that's because there's no pressure from heat in the water heater.

The logical side of me would think the water heater temperature is turned all the way down, but for my research there is no temperature control on the water heater so that's not it.

Here ya' go... That's a new type of bypass but I think that you should follow the instructions.. and turn the handles toward the tank... Then open a faucet in the kitchen until it quits burbing... after that you can try the heater and see if you've burned out the electric heating element.. (most likely)

[Poppy]

Natej30,
You said you only had the electric on for about 2 hours, but if the tank was empty it only takes a few seconds for the electric element to burn out. Don’t ask me how I know. LOL!

[curtiscapk]

+1 it is right there! I would've missed it to!

[sourdough]

If you have a VOM you can test the element by reading from each side on the ohms scale. I believe it should read somewhere in the vicinity of 10 ohms if I recall. If it reads infinity it is toast.

[Natej30]

Thanks everybody! I think you guys were correct, it was in bypass and I had to turn it facing the water heater.

Now the rod that's inserted into the outside of the water heater from the exterior of the trailer does not seal properly, and there's a constant dripping leak. So I have to release the pressure from it and now I'm going to put some plumbers tape on it and hope that does the trick.

There was already plumbers tape on it, but didn't really seal it 100%. 99.9%, but not 100.

And it may have messed up the electrical heating unit. I guess I'll find out once I get the leak to stop.

Thank you guys for your help! Such a good group

[flybouy]

Thanks everybody! I think you guys were correct, it was in bypass and I had to turn it facing the water heater.

Now the rod that's inserted into the outside of the water heater from the exterior of the trailer does not seal properly, and there's a constant dripping leak. So I have to release the pressure from it and now I'm going to put some plumbers tape on it and hope that does the trick.

There was already plumbers tape on it, but didn't really seal it 100%. 99.9%, but not 100.

And it may have messed up the electrical heating unit. I guess I'll find out once I get the leak to stop.

Thank you guys for your help! Such a good group

That is the anode rod, not the electric heating element. A drip from the anode rod will not damage the heating element. Having the electric heating element energized without water in the tank most assuredly will cause it to fail. I'd urge you to read the operating instructions for the water heater and familiarize yourself with the operations and maintenance.

[wiredgeorge]

If you did fry the heating element, it is easy to change and you may want to purchase a new rocker switch as they often fry as well when the heating element dies. I changed mine also replace both the thermostats to allow higher temps on both propane and gas with the theory that hotter water will allow less use of that water combined with the cold for longer showers. I think the original was like 120F and the new one 140F as near as I can recall.

[Tresslerd]

Since both heating methods are not working try simple stuff first. Replace the two thermostats on the back of the water heater. Next easy step is the control module. Both are easy to do. If not this you need to check the wiring which requires electrical knowledge…..good luck

[skids]

My wife had ours on with an empty tank for about an hour. We lucked out! Element still good. Mine plugs into an electrical box next to the water heater. The easy way to check it is to unplug it and check ohms across the plug.

[rlh1957]

You won’t feel anything get hot if electric heating element is on for 10 minutes without sufficient water… it will already have burned up before breaker even had excessive amps on it.

[rlh1957]

Photo #1 check the gas regulator and tube going into heater. Look behind that regulator down low, there is an on/off switch for the electric. If it’s off the electric can’t come on. It is basically a double safety to keep someone inside from inadvertently turning AC power on to an empty tank.

[nitrohorse]

You might want to wait on pulling the anode and reinstalling it until you replace the electric heating element. It will save you having to drain the water heater tank twice. Also, use plumber's dope and teflon tape.

[Stumpy75]

Since both heating methods are not working try simple stuff first. Replace the two thermostats on the back of the water heater. Next easy step is the control module. Both are easy to do. If not this you need to check the wiring which requires electrical knowledge…..good luck

With the lack of water in the tank probably explaining the problems with the lack of hot water, the only thing that is probably burned out is the electric heating element and maybe the switch on the tank for the electric element.

Either have it repaired now(with probably a long wait time), or just use propane for the water heater to get you through this season. If the OP is handy enough to do the repairs, then it's not a hard job. Either that or wait until the repair shops slow down some in the late fall/winter and have it fixed then.

IMHO, go enjoy the season and work on this later!

[sourdough]

Until we hear back I'm under the assumption the tank was empty thus no hot water from any source. With that resolved I'm figuring propane will work. My electric side died last fall and we ran all winter on propane alone because I wanted warranty to pull and repair the water heater. Whether the element or possibly the switch they are both easy to replace and probably both in stock in a home improvement store (element) or RV parts store (switch - if Suburban).

[jsb5717]

Until we hear back I'm under the assumption the tank was empty thus no hot water from any source. With that resolved I'm figuring propane will work. My electric side died last fall and we ran all winter on propane alone because I wanted warranty to pull and repair the water heater. Whether the element or possibly the switch they are both easy to replace and probably both in stock in a home improvement store (element) or RV parts store (switch - if Suburban).


Danny, I assume you have the Suburban water heater as I do. A few weeks ago ours stopped working on propane...igniter wouldn't fire. We've been using it on electric. I did contact Suburban and they said that they would supply parts and pay labor to repair but would require a certified repair facility to assess and report. That assessment won't happen until September...soonest I can get an appointment.

[JRTJH]

Danny, I assume you have the Suburban water heater as I do. A few weeks ago ours stopped working on propane...igniter wouldn't fire. We've been using it on electric. I did contact Suburban and they said that they would supply parts and pay labor to repair but would require a certified repair facility to assess and report. That assessment won't happen until September...soonest I can get an appointment.

It doesn't have to be an RV service center. Suburban has a listing of "approved service centers" many of which are independent repair shops, some not even remotely associated with the RV community. Boats, cabins, mobile homes all use Suburban water heaters and furnaces. Any of those "approved repair facilities" can do warranty work and many have an "open door policy" that's much more available than an RV dealership that's too busy to help their customers.....

Take a look at your water heater owner's manual or contact Suburban for a listing of repair centers in your area... You might just be pleasantly surprised at what you find.....

[jsb5717]

It doesn't have to be an RV service center. Suburban has a listing of "approved service centers" many of which are independent repair shops, some not even remotely associated with the RV community. Boats, cabins, mobile homes all use Suburban water heaters and furnaces. Any of those "approved repair facilities" can do warranty work and many have an "open door policy" that's much more available than an RV dealership that's too busy to help their customers.....

Take a look at your water heater owner's manual or contact Suburban for a listing of repair centers in your area... You might just be pleasantly surprised at what you find.....
Thanks, John, great suggestion. As it happens we have several trips planned for the next couple months and are already scheduled in September with our dealer for adding an AC unit. I asked them to assess the water heater as well at that time.