AC Undersized

[Timothyjs]

I have a 2016 Keystone Hideout 272LHS with a single AC unit but I feel like it struggles to cool the camper in hot weather. Does anyone know if you can have a larger unit installed or is the only option a second unit?

[flybouy]

What size is your current unit? 13.5K btu or 15K btu? What’s the amperage of the trailer? 30 amp or 50 amp?

[roadglide]

I installed 2 rv Airflow inserts it’s A high density Styrofoam insert that directs the airflow under pressure within the camper. I posted a thread under Modifications and upgrades . There is a good YouTube video explaining how it works and measuring at 40% increase in cooling. I can see for myself and experience with the insert that would be correct. Titled airflow plantain inventor.

[wiredgeorge]

The OP has a 30' wood frame / aluminum siding trailer. It will be a 30A trailer. The A/C installed will very likely be a 13.5K BTU and if upgraded to a 15K BTU the trailer will still not get chilly in warmer temps. Not sure how hot it gets in Michigan but here in Texas it isn't unusual to see 105-110F in direct sunlight in the summer (summer lasts from April till January some years but peak temps more in the May-Sept span).

My trailer is 28.7' long. It couldn't get under 85F in triple digit temps. Swapped 13.5K to 15K BTU Dometic Brisk II and temps got to about 80F at best. Sealed up all my ductwork with foil duct tape and put styrafoam on the ends of the duct runs so air wasn't lost. Put real dark tint on my windows. Now we are into the upper 70s F. Added a 14K BTU portable that vents out a window (custom window insert made that removes when travelling). Now 75F in triple digits. Added an RV Airflow insert to my 15K BTU A/C this spring and camped last weekend; temps were only in the low 90s but never needed my portable to be hooked up and temps stayed in the low 70s and could likely have been lower if I turned the thermostat lower. I didn't use a pedestal fan to distribute air as we normally did as airflow through the ductwork was great. I don't have some measurement device but the RV Airflow system seems to be the real deal. No doubt triple digit temps will have us using the portable but 90s... didn't need it as I said.

[Ken / Claudia]

Cannot remember what the max the RVs A/Cs from the factory are supposed to do something like 20 degrees cooler than outside?
I remember in 115 degree CA July temps and it was alway hot in the unit. That was in a truck camper with A/C running nearly 24/7.

[Sarge2]

My Passport is 27' body with a 13.5 AC.... I've been in 85 to 100 degree weather without a problem..... so I'm not sure how large that trailer is but might need a second or larger unit... haven't been out of Michigan but had to quarantine in my rig last July from Covid and it was 2 weeks of 90 degree temps without a hitch...keep the trailer at 72 without an issue... didn't cycle on and off much but it does.

[Timothyjs]

It’s a 30amp trailer. Not sure of the ac size. Can’t seem to find it in my paperwork anywhere. 48,000 series AirXcel

[sourdough]

At 30A I'm sure it's not prepped for a 2nd AC as it couldn't handle it. Have you searched for all the ways you can improve your cold air by checking the vents etc.? You could also install a 15k unit (I'm sure yours is 13.5k). That's a big trailer to cool in hot weather with one 13.5.

[Timothyjs]

I agree not prepped for a second unit. I need to see what size is up there. To be fair, this is a really hot year in northern Minnesota and it’s not keeping up but this is the first time. Also, I was parked in direct sun because there was no shade available.

[sourdough]

Don't know your travel habits but you should be prepared for staying in sites in direct sun in hot weather; happens to us all the time and I generally prefer it vs all the "stuff" that ends up on the trailer when under trees.

After sealing everything up the Airflow insert that wiredgeorge referenced seems to make a great improvement by all the reviews I've read.

[JRTJH]

We are currently in Memphis, TN, it's over 90F and our "single 15K rooftop A/C is keeping the trailer cool. We do have the awning extended to help shade the trailer, but otherwise, we're out in the open sun, sitting in a "concrete parking lot" behind a casino. Our A/C is "keeping up with the heat" in 90F temps. I will say though, that 3 years ago, in Kansas, when it was 105F and we were in the sun, we closed off the front part of the fifth wheel and closed all the vents up there so we could cool the lower level in the trailer. It was "hot to pee" but after the sun went down and it cooled off some, we could open the doors to cool the bedroom and the bathroom.... Trust me when I say that we did not do any cooking in the trailer during those days......

As an alternative, you might consider this:

There are several "free standing air conditioners" in the 5K-8K BTU range. Most are 120 VAC. I installed a 20 amp "passthrough plug" on the back of my Cougar and installed a "old work electrical box" next to the power center.

Now I have an additional 20 amp electrical outlet that is not tied into the trailer 30 amp power service. We use it for an electric heater in the winter and, if we found the need, I could put a free standing A/C in the corner of the slide and vent the heat ducting out the slide window.

Here's a link to one such air conditioner and the Marinco "passthrough" plug I installed on the trailer exterior wall. The "old work box and plug" are just standard Lowe's electrical parts.

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco-200BBI-RV-Power-Inlets/dp/B000NUYZOE/ref=asc_df_B000NUYZOE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312062016371&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=126218243920999437&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013753&hvtargid=pla-492416606304&psc=1

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hisense-6-500-BTU-10-000-BTU-ASHRAE-115-Volt-Portable-Air-Conditioner-Factory-Refurbished/232485163?athcpid=232485163&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWTIC&athieid=v0&athstid=CS020&athguid=430e9879-007-17a2043d5f94bb&athancid=null&athena=true

[wiredgeorge]

Don't know your travel habits buy you should be prepared for staying in sites in direct sun in hot weather; happens to us all the time and I generally prefer it vs all the "stuff" that ends up on the trailer when under trees.

After sealing everything up the Airflow insert that wiredgeorge referenced seems to make a great improvement by all the reviews I've read.

RV AIRFLOW. https://rvairflow.com/ Note I mentioned sealing ducting and tinting windows, etc.

[wiredgeorge]

There are several "free standing air conditioners" in the 5K-8K BTU range. Most are 120 VAC. I installed a 20 amp "passthrough plug" on the back of my Cougar and installed a "old work electrical box" next to the power center.

Now I have an additional 20 amp electrical outlet that is not tied into the trailer 30 amp power service. We use it for an electric heater in the winter and, if we found the need, I could put a free standing A/C in the corner of the slide and vent the heat ducting out the slide window.

Here's a link to one such air conditioner and the Marinco "passthrough" plug I installed on the trailer exterior wall. The "old work box and plug" are just standard Lowe's electrical parts.

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco-200BBI-RV-Power-Inlets/dp/B000NUYZOE/ref=asc_df_B000NUYZOE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312062016371&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=126218243920999437&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013753&hvtargid=pla-492416606304&psc=1

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hisense-6-500-BTU-10-000-BTU-ASHRAE-115-Volt-Portable-Air-Conditioner-Factory-Refurbished/232485163?athcpid=232485163&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWTIC&athieid=v0&athstid=CS020&athguid=430e9879-007-17a2043d5f94bb&athancid=null&athena=true

I use that receptacle tied to my microwave and plug in using an extension cord so the missus doesn't have to turn off the A/C when using the microwave. I have a 10 ga extension cord I use through the window of my camper when we use our 14K BTU portable along with the 15K BTU Dometic Brisk II on the roof.

[Timothyjs]

Great ideas!

[wiredgeorge]

Camping in triple digit temps make ideas of this sort necessity. 30A one A/C ~30' trailers are really not a great idea in areas where the temps get north of 90F not to mention 100F plus.

[Laredo Tugger]

I had a 27 ft. Bunkhouse TT of another brand that had the same problem (with a 30 amp/13.5 unit) also. Upon cleaning the filters I noticed an excessive amount of (dried) expandable foam that was used during the installation of the AC and that it was blocking return air flow. I removed the filter shroud and CAREFULLY (some wiring may be inside of the dried foam) took a knife and cut and removed some pretty good size chunks of the foam, thus increasing the airflow, it made a noticeable difference with the ACs performance. Maybe a quick fix until you install something like roadglide recommended, which I may consider for my FW.
Thanks,
RMc

[rlh1957]

You’ll find that real cooling difference won't be felt to the amount you’re wanting with those air re-directors.
They can’t increase the cooling capacity .
In 95+ degrees especially high humidity even a 15K unit can't keep up. Fans around rig can help some.
Two AC’s sometime struggle to cool it down.

[xrated]

Cannot remember what the max the RVs A/Cs from the factory are supposed to do something like 20 degrees cooler than outside?
I remember in 115 degree CA July temps and it was alway hot in the unit. That was in a truck camper with A/C running nearly 24/7.

The 20 degree differential that you are referring to is the difference between the air coming out of the A/C unit and the air going back in the return duct or register. So no outside air is involved in the differential reading.

[markjamestx]

We have a 2017 31 foot camper with one AC unit and it has done very well for four years now. However we are on a trip thru Louisiana and the Gulf Coast states currently, and are experiencing lots of inside condensation at the air vents and the AC unit. Only thing that has changed is we had the air conditioner maintenanced last week and we have added a portable AC unit in the bunk room. Of course the humidity outside has been very high and very hot in the 90's. We have our AC fan running on low continuously. Has anyone experienced this excessive condensation on the inside of the camper? The AC unit is discharging about five to seven gallons per day. Using a five gallon bucket to collect.

[wiredgeorge]

We have a 2017 31 foot camper with one AC unit and it has done very well for four years now. However we are on a trip thru Louisiana and the Gulf Coast states currently, and are experiencing lots of inside condensation at the air vents and the AC unit. Only thing that has changed is we had the air conditioner maintenanced last week and we have added a portable AC unit in the bunk room. Of course the humidity outside has been very high and very hot in the 90's. We have our AC fan running on low continuously. Has anyone experienced this excessive condensation on the inside of the camper? The AC unit is discharging about five to seven gallons per day. Using a five gallon bucket to collect.

We bought this unit and one of reasons was it has a "self evaporation" feature. I have never had to dump the water tank as it doesn't collect anything.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V3C7JX5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SELF-EVAPORATION - Automatic self-evaporation technology - no bucket to empty (except in some high humidity area) - Built-in dehumidifier removes up to 50 pints/24 hours with continuous drain option for long unattended operation. Condensing water can Pump to Evaporator self to support energy and make high efficient .

[wiredgeorge]

You’ll find that real cooling difference won't be felt to the amount you’re wanting with those air re-directors.
They can’t increase the cooling capacity .
In 95+ degrees especially high humidity even a 15K unit can't keep up. Fans around rig can help some.
Two AC’s sometime struggle to cool it down.

Bet you haven't installed one of the RV Airflow gizmos or used one. While it can't make a unit get colder than its design restrictions it does up the volume of cold airflow out the vents by quite a bit and this in turn makes the thermometer in my camper show cooler inside temps. We usually use a 2nd 14K BTU portable as an adjunct to our 15K BTU roof Brisk II in temps over 90F but this last time out the portable wasn't needed and we kept the cabin temps just over 70F in mid-90F out temps in direct sun. I attribute that to the RV Airflow. A BIG improvement over operation without the thing in place.

[mjsibe]

See attached
AIR conditioners can only do approximately 20° difference.
@90° outside air Best it can do is around 70°
@100° around 80°
And so on.

[Steveo57]

See attached
AIR conditioners can only do approximately 20° difference.
@90° outside air Best it can do is around 70°
@100° around 80°
And so on.

That must be news to the millions of people who live in areas with 100+ degree temps during the summer who are all enjoying their 70 degree air conditioned homes and businesses.....

[rhagfo]

Sounds like you need a dehumidifier before additional AC, that much moisture you are lucky your AC hasn’t iced up.

[JRTJH]

See attached
AIR conditioners can only do approximately 20° difference.
@90° outside air Best it can do is around 70°
@100° around 80°
And so on.

Whoever "wrote" that article for Google has no idea what they're talking about.

Air conditioners DO NOT operate on a 20 degree differential based on OUTSIDE air... They function and are measured based on AMBIENT air... Ambient air is the differential between "air going into the air conditioner return grill" and "air flowing out of the discharge vents"... In other words, the differential is based on INTERIOR air temperatures (ambient air) all measured INSIDE the RV.

If the inside of your RV is 90F, then the air going into your A/C return vent is 90F and the air flowing out of the discharge vents "should be 20 degrees cooler" (minimum). That too, is based on the length of the duct run, the insulation around the duct and the velocity of airflow.

As the trailer "cools off" the air going into the A/C return air grill will be cooler and the discharge air temperature will also be cooler. When the interior of the trailer is lowered to 80F, then the discharge air at the vents "should be" closer to 60F. Once the trailer cools to near the thermostat setting, there should be "about a 20 degree difference" between the ambient air (that's the air around the air conditioner return air filter) and the discharge air outlets in the ceiling.

If you think about what that "google expert" explained, it would be impossible for any building in Las Vegas to be cooler than 100F when the "outside air temperature" is 120F, which is a common condition in Las Vegas in July/August.....

So, don't believe everything Google tells you, they're as "full of dressing as the Thanksgiving turkey".....