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View Full Version : Ground Control Travel Trailer leveling System problems.


Aric G
05-08-2021, 06:21 PM
Hello,

I have had two problems with errors while trying to level the camper. 1st was LF error and the second was out of stroke error. The Lippert system seems to be very sensitive. Is there advice you can give to help prevent more errors in the future? Do I need to level trailer as best I can before I engage the system? Thank you.

2016 Ford F150 3.5 Ecoboost
2021 Cougar 26RKS

sourdough
05-08-2021, 06:24 PM
Aric is this the Ground Control 3.0 4 point system?

Wyldfire
05-08-2021, 06:34 PM
Get the trailer close in side to side level. Very sensitive to low voltage so plug into shore power or generator before using when possible. Jacks are counting movement so too much blocking or to little causes out of stroke errors. Experience helps by looking anymore I can tell if I should use no blocking, my 4 inch blocks or 7 inch buckets.

chuckster57
05-08-2021, 06:40 PM
Out of stroke means the jacks are at full extension and finish leveling. As suggested put blocks under the jacks.

Only way to clear any jack error, is to “regime” them by making sure all the jacks are extended at least 6” and then retracting all.

GC is VOLTAGE sensitive. Best to be plugged into shore power or the tow vehicle with engine running while operating GC.

Aric G
05-09-2021, 05:21 AM
It has four levelers on the four corners plus the jack.

dutchmensport
05-09-2021, 05:37 AM
The electric Lippert Jack self-leveling system is very sensitive. If you are off (something like) 3 degrees left-to-right (side-to-side), you'll get an error. If the jacks extend full length, you get the RF, LR type errors, meaning they have stroked-out.

Like you, I thought the trailer would level itself under any condition. Was I sure wrong. It took me several months to even remotely begin to understand how this system works. With that said, I learned to level the trailer as much as possible, left-to-right with the same lumber I used for my previous travel trailer that had hand crank stabilizer jacks. So, I make sure I always have enough lumber to roll the low side tires at least 5 or 6 inches high (level side-to-side). After that, I still use my small carpenter's square and lower or raise the front and bring the trailer to as level as possible front-to-back. When the carpenter's level is close, then I hit the Auto Level. If the front jacks have to go lower and the carpenter's level is still not close at the lowest setting, then I need to add more lumber under both tires to raise the front higher, so the jacks can go down enough to achieve level. And yes, especially in Indiana State Parks, I've had to hitch and unhitch and hitch again because the camp site was so unlevel and the front or back hit the ground before the camper actually achieve "level". That's the problem with a 41.5 foot long trailer. Small slopes become large problems over the longer distance.

Wyldfire
05-09-2021, 09:30 PM
I never worry about front to back level. Doing so would eliminate the auto hitch height feature I love. Never been an issue if I'm close side to side. After unhitching and moving truck. Hit autolevel. Front of camper drops down till level. Front jacks come down till grounded. Hitch jack goes up for 20 seconds. Rear jacks come down till ground. Jacks make appropriate adjustments and done. If battery voltage gets low or you unhook battery you have to manually level and reset zero calibration as without power memory is lost.

Wyldfire
05-09-2021, 09:45 PM
I never worry about front to back level. Doing so would eliminate the auto hitch height feature I love. Never been an issue if I'm close side to side. After unhitching and moving truck. Hit autolevel. Front of camper drops down till level. Front jacks come down till grounded. Hitch jack goes up for 20 seconds. Rear jacks come down till ground. Jacks make appropriate adjustments and done. If battery voltage gets low or you unhook battery you have to manually level and reset zero calibration as without power memory is lost.

MarkEHansen
05-11-2021, 04:10 AM
First, the "level" memory is not lost when you remove the coach batteries. The auto hitch height may be affected (I expect it would, but have never done this).

I ran into "out of stroke" errors when I first starting using this system. I found that if I just put blocks under the two "low side" jack pads, I can press auto-level and it works every time. I do not have to manually level the trailer first (partially or otherwise).

So now, I just eyeball which way the trailer is leaning (left, right, forward or backward) and place 4 of the lego-style stacking blocks under each of the two pads and it levels.

CedarCreekWoody
05-11-2021, 06:07 AM
Be sure the nose is a bit high before pressing auto level. Place blocks as stated above if any jack has an extra long stroke needed. No need to pre level.

travelin texans
05-11-2021, 07:53 AM
First, the "level" memory is not lost when you remove the coach batteries. The auto hitch height may be affected (I expect it would, but have never done this).

I ran into "out of stroke" errors when I first starting using this system. I found that if I just put blocks under the two "low side" jack pads, I can press auto-level and it works every time. I do not have to manually level the trailer first (partially or otherwise).

So now, I just eyeball which way the trailer is leaning (left, right, forward or backward) and place 4 of the lego-style stacking blocks under each of the two pads and it levels.

Did the same with the level up system.
Carrying 2-3 sets of the Lynx Levelers is much less weight/bulk + easier to store than several lengths of lumber & much easier than the hitch/unhitch back/forth in/out of the truck backing onto that lumber, just add whatever is necessary on the low side & push the button.