Iota Transfer Switch Maintenance

[geo]

About a couple of months ago, I decided to find out if there was a better Transfer Switch than the Iota (the brand Keystone installed in my Alpine). To Keystone's credit, the results of my search informed me that Iota was one of the better transfer switch units on the market. I keep running across this trend . . . it seems as though "important" items in the trailer manufacture are best quality, and other obvious items in the trailer are, well, cheap. (Like the sleeper sofa I just replaced!)

However, one item from my "better transfer switch" search does raise a concern for me and, perhaps, all the members of the forum. While the Keystone Recall of a year ago was caused by the lug screws not being torqued to proper level, several sources I found stated that the Transfer Switch lug screws should be checked YEARLY for proper torque! Previous to this search, I had never heard this bit of maintenance news! And knowing the consequences, I hope everyone might like to know!

Finding a torque screwdriver is a small challenge. No auto parts dealers in north Texas gave me anymore than a puzzled look. :rolleyes: However, I found a couple of brands at Amazon and with different torque ratings.

The IMPORTANT information to know! The Iota ITS-50R Transfer Switch should have the lug screws torqued to 45 inch-pounds! It is recommended that this torque be checked yearly. Of course, if you are like me and prefer to "do it yourself" with the assumption it might be done correctly - BE SURE to disconnect the power cable and disable the generator! :eek: I'm so OCD that I disconnect the batteries also! You don't want to FRY :eek: while performing this task! Make the trailer electrically dead!

You can find the Iota manual at: http://www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/50rman.pdf.

An another note: In my Alpine 3640RL, the black tank flush piping ascends into the wall for the vacuum breaker IMMEDIATELY above the Transfer Switch! I think this might be a Keystone Rocket Scientist at work - whoever installed this puppy! I'm planning on taking a tip from Hankaye while working on the Alpine in a few weeks - I'm going to replace the vacuum breaker ABOVE the transfer switch with just a simple splice fitting and move this splice away from the transfer switch area! I already have a anti-siphon device (from HD) on my black tank rinse hose semi-permanently attached! I don't think the proper torque on the lug screws would help a water drip situation.

Ron

[hankpage]

Ron, All great advise on the transfer switch but on the black tank rinse you need a "Back-flow preventer" not just an anti siphon valve. A full black tank ( or just sewer gases) could give you a smelly surprise. :eek:

[geo]

Hmmm. Hank, you are correct. Think I might have to get the Dremel tool out to cut a hole in the back of the linen closet. Just don't want it above the live voltage! See, thought I would get out of this easy!

Ron

[JRTJH]

Ron, Not sure if you found a torque wrench that will work or not, but Harbor Freight has one on sale for $20 that is adjustable from 20 - 200 in lb. We used the same type in missile assembly in the USAF and they were really easy to use.

Here's a link to HF, just put a bit that fits in a 1/4" driver and torque away.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-2696.html

[geo]

JRTJH -

Thanks! However, I do have a torque screwdriver on the way. But I am positive that others will be interested.

Let me stress, as you obviously understood, that the torque is measured in "inch pounds"! The torque wrench one uses to check the lug nuts on the wheels is calibrated in "foot pounds" - not the same.

My apologies to our Canadian members. The torque was given in "Imperial" and I've been too lazy to convert. But from what I know, I seriously doubt if this is a problem.

Ron

[JRTJH]

Ron, We had 10-12 InLb, 15-18, 22-25, and 42-45 InLb Tee handle square drive "clicker" wrenches that were much easier to use, but I haven't found any adjustable Tee handle wrenches. They are all set at one torque value which limits their use.

As for Inch Pounds/Foot Pounds, the formula to convert is simple, Multiply Foot pounds by 12 to calculate Inch Pounds, Divide Inch Pounds by 12 to calculate Foot Pounds. Really, either wrench will work if you can adjust it to the value needed after converting the value.

85 Foot Pounds (lug nuts) is 1020 Inch Pounds... (85 x 12 = 1020)

Note: (For those who need to be exact) it's actually 12.0000000048 but with a 2% tolerance on most torques, using 12 is close enough .

[geo]

It's early, I'm on the train heading to work, and basically bored. What better time than to switch the phone to Calculator and convert inch pounds! :rofl: Sad, isn't it?

So, it looks like 45 inch pounds works out to be:

5.2017 Newton meters (or metres)
0.5196 kilogram force meters

And as JRTJH has already mentioned, 3.75 foot pounds.

Today's message is brought to you by the letter M for Metric and the letter B for Bored.

How long 'til retirement? :confused:

Ron

[JRTJH]

Now that is boredom at it's "finest" ROFLMAO.

How long did you say you had until retirement, Ron????? :cool3:

Ya know, I really wonder when dealing with "farm maintenance" if being so precise on torque values is really necessary. I say "farm maintenance" because that's the way we used to describe the bailing wire, hammer and pliers method of repairing tractors at the silo. We'd never bring that philosophy inside, but likewise, we'd never take the torque wrench and white cotton gloves out to the tractor shed either.

For those without a torque wrench and wondering if it's really needed, probably not, a common screwdriver, a firm grip on the handle and confirm that the lugs on the wiring are secure and move on to the RV-que or the "cool one" and a lawn chair. It's not "rocket science" I don't think there's any reason to be so precise about torquing the lugs to a specific value, tight is "good enough" in this situation :wave:

[geo]

JRTJH -

Yes, you are so correct! :bdance: We used to say:

"Measure with a micrometer, mark with chaulk, cut with an axe."

I would dare say, a good solid feel on the turn would be sufficient. I would guess that the torque requirements go more along the line of not tightening the lug screw so much as to break it at the slot. In the same way, using a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts on the wheels is more of a safety feature to prevent one from shearing a lug bolt. That one who could shear a lug bolt would not be me! :wave:

Ron