PDA

View Full Version : Cold weather


Trigger12
12-05-2011, 07:05 PM
This is going to be my first winter in my 5er. In Austin, TX right now we are in the mid-low 30's.

Questions for the more experienced:

Using space heaters, I still have moisture buildup on the windows, how can I fix this?

What methods do y'all have for winterizing(water hose, windows, etc.) while living in yours?

Any other helpful tips you can think of, feel free

SteveC7010
12-05-2011, 08:31 PM
Using space heaters, I still have moisture buildup on the windows, how can I fix this?

What methods do y'all have for winterizing(water hose, windows, etc.) while living in yours?

Have you tried using the 3M or Frost King window treatments? Basically, they are a plastic film that is held in place by double sided tape around the window frame. It creates a second layer much like a double pane window.

RV windows are pretty leaky when it comes to cold weather and adding the window treatments stops all of that. It will prevent condensation on the windows. What it won't do is lower the humidity in your unit.

If you stop the condensate on windows, it will still build up on certain walls, window frames, door frames, etc. Most any item on an outside wall that is metal and goes from the outside to the inside is a conductor of heat or cold. Aluminum window and door frames are notorious for this.

Compared to a house, RV's are small and the humidity builds up fast. Surprisingly, most of it comes from our own bodies as we exhale water and CO2.

So, the real answer is a dehumidifier. I know that is contrary to what we'd do in our homes in the winter, but the RV is different. A dehumidifier combined with the RV furnace which circulates air throughout the unit will help a bunch. And, since dehumidifiers put out a bit of heat, it will actually help heat the place.

The water line needs an electric heat tape wrapped around it from the spigot to where ever it enters the rig. Most folks wrap an insulation layer on top of that.

Don't leave the gray water drains open if you are sure the tanks won't freeze. Use the accumulated gray water to flush after draining black. Holding tanks probably should have heaters on them, too.

Skirting is important. Hankaye has a nice thread on that going at the moment.

I've seen little entry housings placed on RV's so that the two doors create a bit of an entryway that prevents heat from escaping when the outer door is opened. It does not have to be permanently attached to the unit, but just pressed up tightly with foam gasketing.

Roof vents need to be insulated. That single layer of plastic isn't much for keeping cold out or heat in and neither is the metal frame of it. You can buy little pillows designed to fit up in there or make your own.

That should get you thinking in the right direction.

hankaye
12-06-2011, 07:32 AM
Trigger12, Howdy;

As far as the water hose goes, I get some heat-tape and waterline insulation.

The folks at Easy-Heat, make various lengths of the stuff. Get some to cover the length of your hose. When I have to buy a new one (not often), I get one that will cover the length of the hose Plus a few inches more to help cover the tap.
I prefer (everyone has their own favorite), the foam pipe insulation like pool nooldels (sp?).

Follow the directions when installing the heat-tape and make sure the insulation for the hose is taped on securely.

Be sure that the Thermostate is exposed to the air temp. so it will know when to turn on and off.

Have fun and enjoy the puzzle of warm living in an RV during the winter.....

Any other questions ???????

hankaye

Bob Landry
12-06-2011, 01:09 PM
You're in Austin and it's not going to stay freezing for very long. I would just leave the water dripping like you would ina stick house. Your furnace is ducted below the floor to keep the tanks from freezing so set it to turn on occasionally to supplement the space heaters.

hankaye
12-06-2011, 04:46 PM
Trigger12, Howdy;

You haven't said what year and model you have.
Should you deciede to tell us, them maybe someone with a simulur (sp?), model can give you some specific item or item/s that need particular attention paid to it/them.
Most stuff is generic and the application of some common sense will go far.
Most importantly is the fact that it is NOT a sticks & bricks home, and all of the systems bear watching. Not to the point of it being obsessive, but ya don't want to negelect anything either...
Keep on comming back and ask all the questions ya want...

hankaye

Trigger12
12-06-2011, 08:38 PM
Thanks for the ideas y'all.
I have a 2012 Springdale 279fwssrl.

I wrapped the water hose with foam pipe insulation tonight. Cracked a few windows to help with humidity but still not helping. Kinda feel like my heat (and money) is going out the window...
I looked at dehumidifiers, but not for $200+. So I'm going to try finding dessicant crystals for a cheaper route.

hankaye
12-06-2011, 09:01 PM
Trigger12, Howdy;

Don't throw your hands up in dispare yet.

Try just cracking the highest roof vent, I have enough
'cool' air creeping in around the windows.

hankaye

JRTJH
12-06-2011, 09:16 PM
Springdale is Keystone's entry level fifth wheel. (not putting it down, it's what I have also) and there is not a lot of insulation in them. I believe it's R7 walls, floor ceiling. That's adequate for summer use, push it to spring and fall, but winter use is tough. There's going to be enough BTU's escaping through the walls, through the metal window frames and out the skylight/vent domes to tax your furnace so it runs nearly nonstop. Those windows are "cold as hell" with single panes. Especially that huge thing in the back. Adding vent pillows or homemade vent insulation will help tremendously on heat loss, but will also reduce the only place you have for moisture to escape.

Things to consider: If your underside is like mine, there's holes the size of Texas (pun intended) at every point where anything enters or exits, sealing those holes, and then looking critically at the front storage compartment with it's holes to the outside world and deciding how to insulate that without causing vent problems for the propane tanks, then adding 1" foam sheeting under the trailer and using it as skirting are all things to consider. Just above your kingpin is your bed. There's almost no insulation there and it's open to the little insulation that is available. I bought corrogated sheeting like under the trailer to cover that area and insulated it with 2" foam board in all the structure. That helped warm our bedroom 5F just by doing that. Consider siding, etc, but only if you're going to be in one place for a while. It's hard to set all that up and then try to tear it down when it's frozen to the ground, wet and cold and muddy. Add a heat tape to the inside of your foam insulation on the water line. Don't rely on the dump valves to stay thawed, look at a small heat tape to wrap them, then insulate with fiberglass pipe wrap also. Stormking plastic window film on all the big windows, and figure out how to leave the fan on in the bathroom to exhaust humidity. Trying to use the crystals will be useless, they absorb a little humidity, but you're talking pints a day with 2 people breathing, cooking, showering in a small space like your RV. If you do decide to put up skirting, make sure you leave some way to ventilate it on warm days, moisture will collect under there and you don't want it to stay wet all winter. Some people have put a couple of 60watt lights under there just to help keep it dry and somewhat warm.

We lived in Alexandria, LA for 20+ years, Bob is right when he said to hang on, it won't be 30 for long in Austin. But it is not comfortable at 40 in a cold wet trailer either. Reconsider a humidifier, the crystals just don't absorb enough water. If you cover all your windows to eliminate the condensation, it will find the coolest spot and collect there. That might be inside an open cabinet, under the bed or on the wall by the door, but until you get the moisture out of the air, it's going to pose a problem.

Good luck, don't think it's an impossible task, people do it all the time, you just have to figure out what works for you and deal with getting prepared.

Trigger12
12-07-2011, 05:33 AM
Well I woke up this morning with no water...

Wrapped the hose last night but it seems like it still froze even with the sink dripping overnight. I think when I get home tonight I'll fill my tank and disconnect and drain water hose.