Parking diesel heater installation-question

[Hugo-H]

My TT is winterized, and covered...but to keep the moisture out, the furnace is on all the time, set to 52°F, together with a dehumidifier to "collect" the moisture.
BUT, since the furnace (on LP running) is quite noisy, and the neighbours complaining, I bought a (car) parking heater diesel to use instead.
Now my question is,does someone can give me a good idea / advice how to install it, without having to drill extra wholes in the TT, so the heated air can get / circulate inside the TT ?
Are there any "unused" wholes i don't know of, which I could use?
Installing it permanently is not yet in order now...perhaps after the winter I will install it in my van...or if I can find a way to install it without drilling extra wholes in the trailer, it could be an added value...

[chuckster57]

How close is your neighbor? I haven’t found a furnace to be “loud” when your say 10 feet away.

[GilaElkHunter]

How close is your neighbor? I haven’t found a furnace to be “loud” when your say 10 feet away.

My neighbor is 150 yards away, his dad lives in his TT next to his house and his furnace sounds like a jet engine running all night.

[flybouy]

If that's normal than campgrounds in colder climates should sound like the takeoff runway hold at JFK airport.

[Pull Toy]

One way to quickly resolve the issue is to see if "ZONING" allows his father to live in the camper full time in a residential area. LOL

It might leave room for negotiation about your heater noise. Sounds like nit-picking to me!

Good Luck,

[gearhead]

I would return the diesel heater where you bought it. I'm assuming you have the RV plugged into residential electricity. Why not just get a small free standing electrical space heater? I think a diesel fired heater would release a lot of moisture, depending of course on its efficiency.

[notanlines]

Here is the site to order this thing. https://www.amazon.com/Parking-Thermostat-Caravans-Campervans-Silencer/dp/B07W66KXR8/ref=asc_df_B07W66KXR8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=398540768796&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1614718116019215503&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012434&hvtargid=pla-851768415824&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=92996539388&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=398540768796&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1614718116019215503&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012434&hvtargid=pla-851768415824
I would avoid it like the mall.

[jxnbbl]

I would return the diesel heater where you bought it. I'm assuming you have the RV plugged into residential electricity. Why not just get a small free standing electrical space heater? I think a diesel fired heater would release a lot of moisture, depending of course on its efficiency.

I'll give a thumbs up to this suggestion, this is probably the driest heat. I am also confused on why you would keep it at 50+ degrees if it is winterized. I'd put it on electric with as low as that thermostat goes (usually 45 or so).

[JRTJH]

My TT is winterized, and covered......
BUT, since the furnace (on LP running) is quite noisy, and the neighbours complaining,...

My neighbor is 150 yards away, his dad lives in his TT next to his house and his furnace sounds like a jet engine running all night.

I'm not sure I completely understand this situation. There are TWO furnaces that are loud, the neighbor complains so you're going to put an "active fire inside your covered and winterized TV" while his continues to "sound like a jet engine running all night" ????

First, if YOUR trailer is covered there should be no "combustion device" operating inside the "closed and sealed" trailer that could deplete the oxygen level.

Second, if YOUR trailer is winterized, there is no need to keep heat on the trailer.

Third, if the neighbor's furnace is keeping you awake (150 yards away from your house) and YOUR furnace is NOT keeping you awake (parked next to your house) I'd suggest that it's NOT your furnace that's the problem.....

Adding a "smelly, messy, diesel burner" to the inside of a trailer, even if it's vented to the outside, brings all sorts of hazards as well as inconveniences to your RV. You'll need to refuel this diesel heater. If it's "permanently mounted and vented" then that means "spilling diesel inside your trailer when you refuel".... If it is removeable, that means diesel exhaust inside your trailer. Neither is a suitable alternative.

Then, to "top it all off" burning that diesel heater inside (with no connection to the furnace (that's the source of the noise issue) means that functionally, there is NO difference between the "area heated" whether you use the diesel burner or an electric space heater.....

Why "introduce more problems to solve a heat issue that's not even required in a "covered and winterized" RV ?????

ADDED: I looked at the Amazon link to what is supposed to be this heater. It has a 10 liter fuel tank and burns 0.64 liters per hour. That means it won't even last 24 hours before refueling. Actually 15.6 hours. And, diesel is about $2.50-$2.75 per gallon. 10 liters = 2.65 gallons. That's roughly $7 a day to operate this diesel heater. That, would be significantly more expensive than nearly any electric space heater. But again, why heat a winterized and covered trailer?

[Brentw]

I too am wondering why you feel the need to heat this unit if it is winterized. Not knowing your geographic area, I do not understand the moisture concerns, many rvs are laid up for the winter without heat. Nonetheless, if you want heat, go with electric, dependable, quiet, unlimited fuel source.

[flybouy]

So many questions with all of this but first question is this. In the OP he states he has a dehumidifier AND the heat on to reduce humidity. Seem logical to me if you truly need both then replace the current dehumidifier with a larger, higher capacity unit. The rest of this mess is just complicating what I see as a simple fix.

[Ken / Claudia]

When we had the 40ft park model on the Washington coast. The prior owner used a radiant oil heater in the winter when away. Said left it on low the keep moisture down. We tried it and it works darn well. No sound, will not get burned if touching it when on high. Unknown what the cost to keep it running 24/7 was but much better than the propane furnace.
I still have it and use it in the garage here in ID. Looks like 55 bucks at HP. When using an extension cord and the unit is on high, I found the cord gets warm. I just do not lay the extension cord across things that can burn.

[gearhead]

Looks like he's in Belgium. I believe their subsidized diesel is much cheaper than ours so it may be a natural "fall back" for them to go to diesel. Still I wouldn't want that stinky stuff inside a RV.
Sounds similar to folks covering up their attic vents in the winter. That's a no-no around here. Produces a wet warm attic. Cold and dry is best, they say.

[Stircrazy]

ADDED: I looked at the Amazon link to what is supposed to be this heater. It has a 10 liter fuel tank and burns 0.64 liters per hour. That means it won't even last 24 hours before refueling. Actually 15.6 hours. And, diesel is about $2.50-$2.75 per gallon. 10 liters = 2.65 gallons. That's roughly $7 a day to operate this diesel heater. That, would be significantly more expensive than nearly any electric space heater. But again, why heat a winterized and covered trailer?

I agree with the reason for adding this seaming to be the wrong one, but they are not messy and smelly unless you just a bafoon mounting them, the fuel tank mounts outside and has a fuel pump to pump the fuel to the unit. second the fuel consumption you show is the max. at lower speeds they burn down to 0.15L/Hr . the only reason I know this is I am loking at putting one in my camper for boon docking (saves battery , quieter, lets me have more propane for the bbq stove and hot water heater and capable of providing more heat)

Steve

[notanlines]

Go ahead and burn a few gallons of diesel fuel inside your RV. Anyone who has ever spent a little time on a job-site with diesel powered forced air heaters will be snickering right now. (Most workers at one time or another asked if burning kerosene rather than #1 or #2 diesel fuel wouldn't make their eyes burn so much)
Ain't my RV so all I want to do is hear the story.

On edit: Unless this unit is mounted outside the RV, where might the exhaust fumes go?

[Stircrazy]

Go ahead and burn a few gallons of diesel fuel inside your RV. Anyone who has ever spent a little time on a job-site with diesel powered forced air heaters will be snickering right now. (Most workers at one time or another asked if burning kerosene rather than #1 or #2 diesel fuel wouldn't make their eyes burn so much)
Ain't my RV so all I want to do is hear the story.

A diesel powered forced air heater is totaly different thing LOL. the espair type heater are seperated combustion from the air they heat so no diesel fumes in the heated air.. many Vehicles have this type of heater, also big rigs for heat in the bunk when they are stopped for the night. they are made for this type of use.

Steve

[hazmat456]

Go ahead and burn a few gallons of diesel fuel inside your RV. Anyone who has ever spent a little time on a job-site with diesel powered forced air heaters will be snickering right now. (Most workers at one time or another asked if burning kerosene rather than #1 or #2 diesel fuel wouldn't make their eyes burn so much)
Ain't my RV so all I want to do is hear the story.

On edit: Unless this unit is mounted outside the RV, where might the exhaust fumes go?

This is not a torpedo heater. It is about the same thing that is currently mounted in your TT. It just burns diesel instead of propane. The right unit could effectively replace the existing unit ( this is not the right unit).

[jasin1]

I'm not sure I completely understand this situation. There are TWO furnaces that are loud, the neighbor complains so you're going to put an "active fire inside your covered and winterized TV" while his continues to "sound like a jet engine running all night" ????

First, if YOUR trailer is covered there should be no "combustion device" operating inside the "closed and sealed" trailer that could deplete the oxygen level.

Second, if YOUR trailer is winterized, there is no need to keep heat on the trailer.

Third, if the neighbor's furnace is keeping you awake (150 yards away from your house) and YOUR furnace is NOT keeping you awake (parked next to your house) I'd suggest that it's NOT your furnace that's the problem.....

Adding a "smelly, messy, diesel burner" to the inside of a trailer, even if it's vented to the outside, brings all sorts of hazards as well as inconveniences to your RV. You'll need to refuel this diesel heater. If it's "permanently mounted and vented" then that means "spilling diesel inside your trailer when you refuel".... If it is removeable, that means diesel exhaust inside your trailer. Neither is a suitable alternative.

Then, to "top it all off" burning that diesel heater inside (with no connection to the furnace (that's the source of the noise issue) means that functionally, there is NO difference between the "area heated" whether you use the diesel burner or an electric space heater.....

Why "introduce more problems to solve a heat issue that's not even required in a "covered and winterized" RV ?????

ADDED: I looked at the Amazon link to what is supposed to be this heater. It has a 10 liter fuel tank and burns 0.64 liters per hour. That means it won't even last 24 hours before refueling. Actually 15.6 hours. And, diesel is about $2.50-$2.75 per gallon. 10 liters = 2.65 gallons. That's roughly $7 a day to operate this diesel heater. That, would be significantly more expensive than nearly any electric space heater. But again, why heat a winterized and covered trailer?

I’m starting to think the op is going to live in the trailer for the winter or have someone live in it like his neighbor does..this to me explains why he wants to heat a covered trailer

[Hugo-H]

My neighbor is 150 yards away, his dad lives in his TT next to his house and his furnace sounds like a jet engine running all night.


jet engine is a good comparision...

[Hugo-H]

One way to quickly resolve the issue is to see if "ZONING" allows his father to live in the camper full time in a residential area. LOL

It might leave room for negotiation about your heater noise. Sounds like nit-picking to me!

Good Luck,


sometimes neighbours can be nit-pickers...like ours:lol:

[Hugo-H]

the diesel heaters only heats the air, so moisture is almost zero... the furnace now, does the same...except for the noise, and the fact I cannot cover up the TT completely, since the furnace exhaust has the stay free...(or I will have no cover at all in no time .. :)

[Hugo-H]

I put it at 52°, since less would not produce enough warm air to keep it free of moisture / condens...
Electrical heater would need to be quite big > 3kWh...

[Hugo-H]

why heated the covered and winterized TT? -> because just before winterizing it, i discovered a water intrusion problem, and I want to be sure, it gets dried out completely the whole TT...

[Hugo-H]

the diesel heater's exhaust has to go out from under the cover...otherwise I will have a BIG problem...

[Hugo-H]

A diesel powered forced air heater is totaly different thing LOL. the espair type heater are seperated combustion from the air they heat so no diesel fumes in the heated air.. many Vehicles have this type of heater, also big rigs for heat in the bunk when they are stopped for the night. they are made for this type of use.

Steve


that is what I mean, and this type of diesel heater is for this purpose...

[Hugo-H]

if this is not the right unit, which one would / could be the right one?

[JRTJH]

If the objective is not to "heat the interior" but to "dry the interior because of a previous roof leak", then why even use a heater? A dehumidifier would work much better, can be bought for around the same price as the diesel heater, eliminate the cost of diesel, and do a better job of REMOVING MOISTURE, not "HEATING MOIST AIR"....

I'd skip drilling holes in the trailer, daily/weekly diesel tank fills, worrying about the wind blowing the trailer cover over the diesel heater exhaust port (causing a fire) and just dry the air by using the "right tool for drying air" not a "makeshift tool that heats the air"....