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Maineiacs
10-20-2020, 03:24 PM
About 2 weeks ago I blew out the lines with compressed air, drained the fresh water and hot water tank and called it good.


Then I got to thinking. What about the water pump itself? Blowing out the lines didn't necessarily take care of any water in the pump.


And what about the black tank flush line? On my unit it's fed separately from all the other water lines. There must be water trapped in that line that the low point drains don't handle.


So I bit the bullet, added the pink stuff to the tank and ran it into all the lines using the pump. And I used the hose attachment to take care of the black tank flush line. And the water pump is sitting with pink stuff in it!


I post this only so anyone else who might have omitted one or more of these steps can benefit from my initial oversights.

Javi
10-20-2020, 03:29 PM
About 2 weeks ago I blew out the lines with compressed air, drained the fresh water and hot water tank and called it good.


Then I got to thinking. What about the water pump itself? Blowing out the lines didn't necessarily take care of any water in the pump.


And what about the black tank flush line? On my unit it's fed separately from all the other water lines. There must be water trapped in that line that the low point drains don't handle.


So I bit the bullet, added the pink stuff to the tank and ran it into all the lines using the pump. And I used the hose attachment to take care of the black tank flush line. And the water pump is sitting with pink stuff in it!


I post this only so anyone else who might have omitted one or more of these steps can benefit from my initial oversights.
I always blow out the black tank flush and run the water pump 3-4 minutes with the low point drains open then blow every thing out.. although I only use antifreeze in the pee traps.

for me it isn't about cost.. it's convenience, I'm probably going to use the trailer the next weekend any way.

RagingRobert
10-21-2020, 01:55 AM
Hi,
Has anyone heard of bypassing the hot water tank then at the end of the winterizing a little antifreeze is let into the HW tank? I noticed this was done at the dealer last year because the bypass wasn't on at our first trip this summer. I also noticed the hot water was very cloudy and almost white? I did it myself this year and flushed out the HW tank and left the bypass on with no antifreeze entering the tank. Another thing I did which is important I think especially in colder climates is to remove the washer/screen in the city water connection and push the pressure relieve button to let some antifreeze drain...very important that after you pressurize with the antifreeze to relieve a little pressure at a faucet before you push on that button in the city fill...it could damage it. Maybe that's overkill but I like the lubricating the antifreeze does. I also hand pumped some antifreeze into the tank flush line. One more thing :) I use the water pump and a connected hose to draw the antifreeze out of the jug instead of pouring it into the water tank, but I do like the idea of leaving some antifreeze in the water tank and especially in the line out. Anyway...thought I'd add my 2 cents.

Maineiacs
10-21-2020, 03:50 AM
Hi, .......I use the water pump and a connected hose to draw the antifreeze out of the jug instead of pouring it into the water tank, but I do like the idea of leaving some antifreeze in the water tank and especially in the line out. Anyway...thought I'd add my 2 cents.


My water pump is tucked away under an end table and it's not possible to get to. Used to use that technique on my 5er. I remove the vent screen and use a hose and funnel to add the antifreeze to the tank.

ewbldavis
10-21-2020, 07:54 AM
[QUOTE=RagingRobert;417448]Hi,
Has anyone heard of bypassing the hot water tank then at the end of the winterizing a little antifreeze is let into the HW tank?

I plan on doing this to put antifreeze in the water line between wet bay and water heater. Probably a 10ft. line that I don't want to freeze.

flybouy
10-21-2020, 08:42 AM
[QUOTE=RagingRobert;417448]Hi,
Has anyone heard of bypassing the hot water tank then at the end of the winterizing a little antifreeze is let into the HW tank?

I plan on doing this to put antifreeze in the water line between wet bay and water heater. Probably a 10ft. line that I don't want to freeze.

I'm not clear on how you "let in" a "little antifreeze" into the water heater. How do you know how much you let in unless you drain it? If you drain then what's the point?

Sarge2
10-21-2020, 12:49 PM
About 2 weeks ago I blew out the lines with compressed air, drained the fresh water and hot water tank and called it good.


Then I got to thinking. What about the water pump itself? Blowing out the lines didn't necessarily take care of any water in the pump.


And what about the black tank flush line? On my unit it's fed separately from all the other water lines. There must be water trapped in that line that the low point drains don't handle.


So I bit the bullet, added the pink stuff to the tank and ran it into all the lines using the pump. And I used the hose attachment to take care of the black tank flush line. And the water pump is sitting with pink stuff in it!


I post this only so anyone else who might have omitted one or more of these steps can benefit from my initial oversights.

Now you got me wondering... I pulled the HW drain, shut the bypass valves, blew out the lines from the city water line connection, then pumped antifreeze thru the system via the pump to all the faucets, outdoor kitchen and shower... never thought about the black tank flush line.... should I just blow that out or should I add antifreeze to that too? Can I just gravity feed antifreeze into it with short garden hose connection after I blow it out? Never even considered it until now.. the rest of the TT is done with the exception of that line... always something... :facepalm:

Maineiacs
10-21-2020, 02:56 PM
never thought about the black tank flush line.... should I just blow that out or should I add antifreeze to that too? Can I just gravity feed antifreeze into it with short garden hose connection after I blow it out? ... :facepalm:


If your unit is plumbed the same as mine, it was not drained by the low point drains and was not fed by your pump. Because of the possible slope of the line, I'd be dubious about a gravity feed. I was able to use the outside hose connection and force feed the line that way. Good luck!

RagingRobert
10-21-2020, 03:11 PM
Hi flybouy, I think once the lines were full of antifreeze and with the pump off they opened the bypass to let a little antifreeze into the HW tank. Not sure if they did this for my convenience so I wouldn't forget to turn the bypass back in the spring or it's good to let a little antifreeze sit on the bottom of the HW tank?
Hi Sarge2, Yes I blew out the tank flush lines and then I have this small hand pump that draws from the jug. An angled funnel would work also. I pumped in what I thought was enough to fill the line to reach the tank. I think you'd be okay just blowing out the lines, but for colder climates and that extra protection/lubrication, I'd add some antifreeze.

Sarge2
10-21-2020, 03:59 PM
Yeah I uncorked the HWH, opened the low point and hold tank drains until empty, closed those, closed bypass and blew out the lines from the city fill... until all the lines and related shower heads, outdoor sink and such only blew air.... then I shut it all down. Opened the winterize valve on the pump and drew about 1.5 gallons of antifreeze pumped thru the lines and opened each faucet until I got antifreeze.... ended up using up the rest of the two gallons... then put more down the traps on sinks and bathtub... but totally forgot about the black tank flush line... will do that this weekend... then should be done.... might be overkill but after having Gen RV do mine last year and having multiple lines and fittings split as well as the pump housing, I figured I could do better... they paid but still had me concerned about what did they miss? Luckily I camped several times with it for multiple days each time and had no leaks...Knock on Wood....:whistling:

JRTJH
10-21-2020, 05:09 PM
If you have a Suburban water heater, take a look at your owner's manual in the "Winterizing" section. You'll find this statement: "Antifreeze can be very corrosive to the anode rod creating premature failure and heavy sediment in the tank."

If you have an Atwood water heater, the tank is aluminum and serves as its own anode rod. While the owner's manual doesn't address antifreeze in the tank, it also doesn't say it's OK.... I'd be very cautious about introducing something into an Atwood water heater that is considered "corrosive" in a Suburban water heater.

In other words, I'd suggest rethinking the idea of "introducing a little antifreeze into the water heater". It won't do anything "good" and it may do "lots of bad"...

RagingRobert
10-22-2020, 02:07 AM
Thanks for that John. Just reading the antifreeze I used, says safe for metal pipes and inhibits corrosion :) But yes, it doesn't make sense letting antifreeze into the HW tank.

JRTJH
10-22-2020, 09:29 AM
Thanks for that John. Just reading the antifreeze I used, says safe for metal pipes and inhibits corrosion :) But yes, it doesn't make sense letting antifreeze into the HW tank.

My "guess" is that statement on the antifreeze container addresses "typical metal pipes" which are found in a house... I don't know of any "plumbing pipes found in RV's or houses" that are made of aluminum or magnesium. The Suburban anode rod that comes from the factory is a magnesium alloy and the "alternative anode for some water conditions" is an aluminum alloy.... The Atwood tank is an aluminum alloy, so I'd guess (strictly a guess) that "typical metal pipes found in plumbing" are not affected by that antifreeze... However: what are "typical metal pipes" ???

I agree with you, best to just avoid getting any antifreeze in the water heater, better "safe than sorry" ....

flybouy
10-22-2020, 09:38 AM
John has addressed the "safe for metal" issue. Pipes are typically copper, or galvanized iron in some older homes. The "little bit of antifreeze" in the bottom of a water heater is just not beneficial in any way. The water heater has enough area that if a small amount of water were remaining it would freeze but do no harm as it would have ample room to expand.

bbells
10-25-2020, 07:32 AM
My manual tells how to blow out the water lines and to only add anti-freeze to the drains.

kenmoffat
10-25-2020, 08:10 AM
I believe draining the water heater is all that's needed, not adding antifreeze. There is a small amount of water left after draining, but it's a harmless amount.

mjsibe
10-25-2020, 09:03 AM
I live north of Philadelphia
So we get 0 A Few times a winter.
I drain low points & FW tank.
Blow out the lines.
Then add 4 gallons of Rv antifreeze into a 5 gallon bucket with a small pump.
Water heater drained & in bypass.
Open furthest sink hot & cold till antifreeze comes out work back with every tap & toilet.
Pump a gallon or so into the FW Tank
& run the pump.
Finally I pump some through the black wash line.
This gets the traps & a little in the gray & black tanks too.

Mikelff
10-25-2020, 10:05 AM
As others have stated, you do NOT want antifreeze in your hot water tank. It can be a bear to clean out and can cause damage. Just drain, and I leave the drain and pressure valve open. What little water might be in there will not hurt anything if it freezes..
If folks run antifreeze through the pump and out all the faucets, wouldn’t all the traps have antifreeze already in them, and not have to add more? I think so. I did forget about the black tank flush line last year. Luckily, no damage as we had a mild winter. Won’t forget this year though. Thanks for the reminder!

ADQ K9
10-25-2020, 10:54 AM
My 2 cents:
The outside shower could be overlooked.
I pull the anode rod out of the water heater and drain the low points bypass the water heater and pump antifreeze through the whole system I use a hand pump for the city input and black tank flush. Pour antifreeze straight down shower and sink so I have about a gallon of pure antifreeze in each holding tank. Might be overkill but no problems last 3 years.
Antifreeze is cheap insurance

kenhigdon
10-25-2020, 02:08 PM
Several years ago when we were using a Motorhome, I forgot to run the pink stuff thru the icemaker. The valve froze and busted. Could not reach the icemaker from the outside removable panel. I paid the factory repair service to remove the refrigerator and replace the busted valve for the icemaker. Never will make that mistake again. Thanks for the reminder on the black tank flush.

RoadToad
10-25-2020, 03:29 PM
I would guess "typical metal pipes" to be Copper or Galvanized Iron.

Tooth Ferry
10-25-2020, 08:28 PM
Don't forget washing machine lines.

DDuncan51
10-26-2020, 06:37 AM
I blow out all the lines until they're dry, no moisture in the line whatsoever. I also blow the flush line out, then drain the tanks. My water pump is easy to get to, so I just unhook the connections, put a dry towel under the outlet and run it for a couple seconds. dump a pint of RV anti-freeze down each drain, including the toilet. I live in an area where the temperature can get well below zero F. I've been doing this for years. No problems.

Of course every RV is different.

Maineiacs
10-26-2020, 01:03 PM
Thanks for the reminder on the black tank flush.


Glad it helped someone. It was new to me, so I thought it was worth mentioning.

Jim2366
10-26-2020, 08:14 PM
I am sure glad I read this. I brought the RV home to re organize and to winterize. I missed a few things that I will do tomorrow. I missed the black water tank rinse line and the low point drains. Its a good thing its still in the driveway.

I just blow the water out and put rv anti freeze in the traps.

ewbldavis
10-27-2020, 07:48 AM
[QUOTE=ewbldavis;417475]

I'm not clear on how you "let in" a "little antifreeze" into the water heater. How do you know how much you let in unless you drain it? If you drain then what's the point?

I'm not worried about the water heater, but the line going from wet bay to water heater. I ran pump with antifreeze like 10 seconds, then flipped valve to "bypass". Maybe not a super scientific method, but worth a shot and I saw a little pink at WH drain.

I use low points and compressor before filling with antifreeze. For $3/gal. it's cheap insurance in case I didn't get it all out. Regardless of your methods, sad time when we shut them down for 6 months!

JohnnyP
10-28-2020, 04:31 PM
Forgot to turn bypass and got a little antifreeze in HW heater. Will it hurt anything?? Plug is out but can still see some pink in it.

RagingRobert
10-28-2020, 04:57 PM
No it won't hurt anything. I would just rinse out the tank with a hose if you can.

jimborokz
10-29-2020, 06:31 AM
Now you got me wondering... I pulled the HW drain, shut the bypass valves, blew out the lines from the city water line connection, then pumped antifreeze thru the system via the pump to all the faucets, outdoor kitchen and shower... never thought about the black tank flush line.... should I just blow that out or should I add antifreeze to that too? Can I just gravity feed antifreeze into it with short garden hose connection after I blow it out? Never even considered it until now.. the rest of the TT is done with the exception of that line... always something... :facepalm:

The only issue with the b/t flush is the back flow preventer that is usually up under the bathroom sink. If there was water trapped in that and it froze it could crack that plastic fitting. I just blow it out with air.
I don't put any antifreeze in w/h either, just drain and set by pass. I just blow out all the water lines and only put antifreeze in the P-traps. If there is a little water left in a pipe or w/h it won't harm anything. The problem is when a line is "full" of water and it freezes it expands and that's when things break. I have never done anything with the water pump and I'm thinking I have just been lucky. I will now pump a little antifreeze into the pump just to be safe. Also I will cycle the ice maker a couple time with the air connected as I really don't want antifreeze in there.