Low point drain caps

[CrazyCain]

My brother in laws job didn't allow him to camp at all this year and finally has a couple of free weekends coming up towards the end of Sept. SO he needed me to De winterize his camper, type of guy that pretty much just pulls his trailer.
SOOO, i went there yesterday, oh he had a Big Box ("General" Description of the place ;) ) RV center winterize it last fall because he had warranty work done on it. When i went there i noticed the caps where not on the low point drains, but in with the HWH compartment outside. HUH..

I'm like, uh why did they take them off. Usually you take them off at De winterizing....I could see inside the trailer that they did use anti freeze because there was some on the floor near the pump. and all the other evidence of being used was there, drains, stuff in the sinks and all..

When we filled the FWT and turn on the pump, not to much anti freeze came out of the faucets...

Am i missing something here, did they blow the lines out and just pour antifreeze down the traps and into the toilet? I do not blow my lines out so i have no idea.....that would explain why the caps are off i guess...

[Javi]

My brother in laws job didn't allow him to camp at all this year and finally has a couple of free weekends coming up towards the end of Sept. SO he needed me to De winterize his camper, type of guy that pretty much just pulls his trailer.
SOOO, i went there yesterday, oh he had a Big Box ("General" Description of the place ;) ) RV center winterize it last fall because he had warranty work done on it. When i went there i noticed the caps where not on the low point drains, but in with the HWH compartment outside. HUH..

I'm like, uh why did they take them off. Usually you take them off at De winterizing....I could see inside the trailer that they did use anti freeze because there was some on the floor near the pump. and all the other evidence of being used was there, drains, stuff in the sinks and all..

When we filled the FWT and turn on the pump, not to much anti freeze came out of the faucets...

Am i missing something here, did they blow the lines out and just pour antifreeze down the traps and into the toilet? I do not blow my lines out so i have no idea.....that would explain why the caps are off i guess...

Could be, that's all I do... but I live in Texas and camp between cold spells..

[chuckster57]

I wonder how much they charged him? You can’t run antifreeze in the lines with the low points open. And they spilled?

I’d be looking for a refund myself.

[CrazyCain]

I wonder how much they charged him? You can’t run antifreeze in the lines with the low points open. And they spilled?

I’d be looking for a refund myself.

I know, i showed him that when the caps are off, the water runs right out. They charged him $120.00

[sourdough]

Yep, they pulled a fast one. A 5 minute blow out and 1/2 gal of antifreeze = $120 (well maybe 15 minutes). As Javi, that's all I do but I live in W TX and the lowest temp ever seen by the owner of the insulated storage facility where we keep it is 36 degrees inside. I'd be having a conversation with them.

[flybouy]

I'll give him a discount! I'll do that for an even C note.:popcorn:

[Customer1]

I remove the caps after running antifreeze. There is no benefit to leaving the antifreeze in the lines.

[skids]

I wonder how much they charged him? You can’t run antifreeze in the lines with the low points open. And they spilled?

I’d be looking for a refund myself.

Maybe they did the low points with antifreeze last by uncapping them and then just left the caps off.

[chuckster57]

We don’t winterize out here, but my thinking: why spend the time and money to pump antifreeze if your going to open the low point drains and let it drip out?

Just asking.

[JRTJH]

I haven't seen a "new delivery from the factory" during winter in several years. Back then (around 2016) the trailers arrived at dealer lots "winterized at the factory"... All of the low point drain caps were stored in the water heater front access area (behind the water heater door). They sat on the lot like that (no low point drain caps) until they were sold and the PDI was done. I never gave it any thought, but if they were winterized at the factory, why were the low point drain caps in the water heater ???

So, could it be that the factory winterizes trailers and then removes the low point drain caps for some reason ??? Following that, could it be that the "big box RV store" that winterized this trailer actually did "what the factory does" and all of us, for all these years, have simply been "missing a step in the factory procedure" ?????

Hmmmmm http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/confused/i-dont-know-smiley-emoticon.gif (http://www.sherv.net/)

[chuckster57]

I haven't seen a "new delivery from the factory" during winter in several years. Back then (around 2016) the trailers arrived at dealer lots "winterized at the factory"... All of the low point drain caps were stored in the water heater front access area (behind the water heater door). They sat on the lot like that (no low point drain caps) until they were sold and the PDI was done. I never gave it any thought, but if they were winterized at the factory, why were the low point drain caps in the water heater ???

So, could it be that the factory winterizes trailers and then removes the low point drain caps for some reason ??? Following that, could it be that the "big box RV store" that winterized this trailer actually did "what the factory does" and all of us, for all these years, have simply been "missing a step in the factory procedure" ?????

Hmmmmm http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/confused/i-dont-know-smiley-emoticon.gif (http://www.sherv.net/)

And all the units I have seen from the factory have the low point drains closed and only the FW tank cap in the WH compartment. East vs. West thing? :hide:

[JRTJH]

And all the units I have seen from the factory have the low point drains closed and only the FW tank cap in the WH compartment. East vs. West thing? :hide:

http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/confused/i-dont-know-smiley-emoticon.gif (http://www.sherv.net/) I suspect that you likely get units from both factory locations ??? It's been at least 4 years since I observed a dealer inspect a factory delivery so the entire process may have changed since then ?????

[Brentw]

Well, I open drains, drop the water, close them up, pump anti freeze to all points, open drains again and let it drop. Antifreeze is in all the nooks that don't drain, that's all I need it for. Don't need to have all the lines full. Also saves flush time in the spring.

[sourdough]

Well, I open drains, drop the water, close them up, pump anti freeze to all points, open drains again and let it drop. Antifreeze is in all the nooks that don't drain, that's all I need it for. Don't need to have all the lines full. Also saves flush time in the spring.


I'm thinking (now into a dangerous area) that if we flush the lines with antifreeze then dump it and leave the low points open, what's the difference between blowing the lines out then putting antifreeze in all the traps etc.? Ahhh, just things to thing about....

[tech740]

I'm thinking (now into a dangerous area) that if we flush the lines with antifreeze then dump it and leave the low points open, what's the difference between blowing the lines out then putting antifreeze in all the traps etc.? Ahhh, just things to thing about....

In the south I think that would work. In the north, I think there is benefit to knowing that there is antifreeze in the points that are not supposed to be low, and other little nooks and crannies that air may have allowed residual to collect in. I usually leave mine full and drain in the spring. I wish my water heater bypass was at the water heater not the docking station. I have a 30 foot run of pipe to the heater then a 20 foot run from the heater to the valve before it goes to fixtures. I end up blowing all that out and hoping it drains to the water heater if residual builds up. At least the heater tank has the anode removed and gives room to expand.

[flybouy]

Justin Wilson the Cajun Chef used say he was a safety engineer (he was in real life) because he wore a belt and suspenders. I like that approach.

I use compressed air to blow out the lines then pump the pink stuff thru via winterization valve on FW pump. At the minimal cost of the antifreeze I think it's cheap insurance. Then I remove all three drain caps and set them inside the front compartment as that's where my FW pump is.

Why? My thinking is the the only need for the antifreeze is to replace the water that won't drain. This makes chasing the antifreeze out in the spring a lot quicker.

Question. On the factory placing the caps in the WH compartment. At the factory, do they actually connect city water and check for leaks? From what I've read, I don't think they test the blank tank flush!

[Javi]

Justin Wilson the Cajun Chef used say he was a safety engineer (he was in real life) because he wore a belt and suspenders. I like that approach.

I use compressed air to blow out the lines then pump the pink stuff thru via winterization valve on FW pump. At the minimal cost of the antifreeze I think it's cheap insurance. Then I remove all three drain caps and set them inside the front compartment as that's where my FW pump is.

Why? My thinking is the the only need for the antifreeze is to replace the water that won't drain. This makes chasing the antifreeze out in the spring a lot quicker.

Question. On the factory placing the caps in the WH compartment. At the factory, do they actually connect city water and check for leaks? From what I've read, I don't think they test the blank tank flush!

On a note... I used to talk to Justin Wilson often when he was selling for fertilizer Mississippi Chemical Company.. and I hired one of his protégés to sell for us.

[JRTJH]

Justin Wilson the Cajun Chef used say he was a safety engineer (he was in real life) because he wore a belt and suspenders. I like that approach.

I use compressed air to blow out the lines then pump the pink stuff thru via winterization valve on FW pump. At the minimal cost of the antifreeze I think it's cheap insurance. Then I remove all three drain caps and set them inside the front compartment as that's where my FW pump is.

Why? My thinking is the the only need for the antifreeze is to replace the water that won't drain. This makes chasing the antifreeze out in the spring a lot quicker.

Question. On the factory placing the caps in the WH compartment. At the factory, do they actually connect city water and check for leaks? From what I've read, I don't think they test the blank tank flush!

I can't speak for "today's procedures" but the last time I toured the factory (2018) the Cougar line had an "air pressure device" that was connected to the city water inlet, pressurized to 50PSI and left for 15 minutes. If the system remained pressurized (no ideal the tolerances deemed pass/fail) they removed the device and winterized the system.

I didn't see any "failures" so that could mean one of two things:

1. Quality work with no defects..... :whistling::whistling:

2. Defective plumbing that was "not repaired" and winterized anyway.....

I have no idea which was/is the practice. I'd hope if they identify a problem, they fix it, or at least make note of it so the dealer can fix it... However ?????

[flybouy]

I can't speak for "today's procedures" but the last time I toured the factory (2018) the Cougar line had an "air pressure device" that was connected to the city water inlet, pressurized to 50PSI and left for 15 minutes. If the system remained pressurized (no ideal the tolerances deemed pass/fail) they removed the device and winterized the system.

I didn't see any "failures" so that could mean one of two things:

1. Quality work with no defects..... :whistling::whistling:

2. Defective plumbing that was "not repaired" and winterized anyway.....

I have no idea which was/is the practice. I'd hope if they identify a problem, they fix it, or at least make note of it so the dealer can fix it... However ?????

Sounds like they follow "typical" plumbing practices in using air to test. Seems off that they would winterize the system when no water was ever present.

[CrazyCain]

Well i guess whatever way it was done was ok, confused as all H*ll..LOL I leave the caps on after i winterize, been just fine the last 4 yrs, so no worries about that kind of stuff....
When I ran H20 through the system there were no leaks or anything. Still wondering why they charged him 120.00.. Told him to check his receipt . BTW, Extended warranty work was replacing the FWT, which was leaking..

:popcorn::hide::eek::lol:

[GMcKenzie]

Justin Wilson the Cajun Chef used say he was a safety engineer (he was in real life) because he wore a belt and suspenders. I like that approach.

I use compressed air to blow out the lines then pump the pink stuff thru via winterization valve on FW pump. At the minimal cost of the antifreeze I think it's cheap insurance. Then I remove all three drain caps and set them inside the front compartment as that's where my FW pump is.

Why? My thinking is the the only need for the antifreeze is to replace the water that won't drain. This makes chasing the antifreeze out in the spring a lot quicker.



^^This. I'd rather know I'd run AF through the low point drains and leaving the caps off (or in my case the valves open) is easier.

Done for the season so I have to do this soon (too soon)

[beeje]

I remove the caps after running antifreeze. There is no benefit to leaving the antifreeze in the lines.

You are correct there probably is no benefit to leave the antifreeze in the lines however leaving any caps off invites mud wasps or whatever to build a nest inside of the open cavity

[PinTwister]

I always blow out my lines, close the water heater bypass, pull my anod rod, open all faucets, and low point drains. I leave my RV like this all winter. I want to know if it would be safe to close the system and make it ready to use after cleaning out all the water. I live in Michigan, and it can get very cold for extended periods of time. Please only reply if you actually know if this will work or not. No educated guesses, please.

[JRTJH]

I always blow out my lines, close the water heater bypass, pull my anod rod, open all faucets, and low point drains. I leave my RV like this all winter. I want to know if it would be safe to close the system and make it ready to use after cleaning out all the water. I live in Michigan, and it can get very cold for extended periods of time. Please only reply if you actually know if this will work or not. No educated guesses, please.

You can't "clean out all the water"... No matter how long you blow out the lines, there's going to be some water remaining and there's no way to predict where it will pool after you close the system completley.

If you're not going to use antifreeze in the system, then I would not close the faucets, low point drains or reconnect the water pump. In an open system, there is space for the ice to expand, if you close the faucets, install the caps on the low point drains and reconnect the water pump, you make them a closed space where water can accumulate (or be pushed into if it freezes further down the line)....

Leaving them open allows "a little bit of expansion space" which may be all you need to avoid damage....

The "nice thing about RV antifreeze" is that even if it freezes, it doesn't expand. That allows it to "displace water in the lines" and no matter how cold it gets, it won't expand causing damage.... I keep 2-3" of antifreeze in my toilet bowl. Regularly, in January/February it will be "slushy to solid ice" but never has caused any damage (because it doesn't expand when frozen)...

So, to answer your question, No, I would no close up the system and make it "ready to go in the spring". Doing so IMHO, increases your risk of damage, especially if you don't use RV antifreeze after blowing out the lines.

[mikec557]

If it's not too far off topic, how exactly does one "blow out" the water lines?

[JRTJH]

Connect one of these to the city water inlet, attach a compressor (regulated to 35-40 PSI, any higher could cause damage to the PEX/fittings/faucet washers, etc) and remove the low point drains. That will use compressed air to "blow the water in the system to the point of least resistance which is the low point drain that's open.

It normally takes about 10-15 minutes of putting a finger on the low point drain opening and even raising the trailer tongue then lowering it to "encourage the water to flow to the low point drain and be forced out of the system.

Open and close every faucet, one at a time, to maximize the flow of air to a single point opening in the plumbing system.... I try never to close all of the possible drains at once, just to protect the plumbing system from a malfunctioning compressore regulator, but that's just me, not a requirement....

Here's the typical fitting. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Brass-Connect-Aids-Removal-36143/dp/B002XL2IEA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=355ZRPJEO7IU9&dchild=1&keywords=rv+compressed+air+adapter&qid=1600022760&sprefix=RV+compressed+air+%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-1

[mikec557]

Connect one of these to the city water inlet, attach a compressor (regulated to 35-40 PSI, any higher could cause damage to the PEX/fittings/faucet washers, etc) and remove the low point drains. That will use compressed air to "blow the water in the system to the point of least resistance which is the low point drain that's open.

It normally takes about 10-15 minutes of putting a finger on the low point drain opening and even raising the trailer tongue then lowering it to "encourage the water to flow to the low point drain and be forced out of the system.

Open and close every faucet, one at a time, to maximize the flow of air to a single point opening in the plumbing system.... I try never to close all of the possible drains at once, just to protect the plumbing system from a malfunctioning compressore regulator, but that's just me, not a requirement....

Here's the typical fitting. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Brass-Connect-Aids-Removal-36143/dp/B002XL2IEA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=355ZRPJEO7IU9&dchild=1&keywords=rv+compressed+air+adapter&qid=1600022760&sprefix=RV+compressed+air+%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-1

Thanks for the info. The short video at the Amazon link was also informative.

[Javi]

Thanks for the info. The short video at the Amazon link was also informative.

Make sure to keep the air pressure at or below 40 psi when doing this

[08quadram]

I just blow mine out with air. Never had a problem here in Iowa. Gets -30 and colder here also. I leave faucets open, but close the low points. Any residual water in the lines should not cause an issue with faucets open. The water itself doesn't "crack the line" its the increase in air pressure from expanding ice. I've never even unhooked the water pump. Just ran it for 30 seconds.

[Mr Mojo]

When I bought my trailer in 2018, the low point drain caps were in with the outside water heater compartment. Forgetting they were there, when I hooked up water and turned it on, I was trying to figure out why I wasn't getting much water. Then I remembered that I didn't put the caps on.