Need a list.

[BeagleMan]

Afternoon Gents. New RVer here. Some background. We are and have moved from Missouri to Alabama. Have a house all set to buy in 3-4 months. COVID took my career away at Cabelas and I am taking my new bride south. Wife had a great idea, instead of living in a rented house in bad neighborhoods, N-Bham, we decide to buy this Outback 260UML to live in instead. So, we are in a our RV site and will get the jobs needed and time under them to get mortgage for house in 2021. In the meantime, I need to know everything i can regarding this RV. We are in a full service site, 30 Amp-Wifi-Cable-Water-Bath Houses, Laundry. I just need to know I am doing everything possible to know more about this rig. We went through Bill Thomas RV in Wentzville, MO. Was given the tour, tutorial, the whole spiel. How to connect this and that, Propane operation, filled tanks, proper amperage use et al. Just going to post a series of questions and let you guys have at it. Just want to make sure my new bride is as less stressed as possible. :lol: Please bear with me and I will continue to use this thread as my own educational tool. Thanks. Here we go....

1. Cable. There is a port on my RV and a port on the post, have a coaxial cable screwed in both ends and TV is iffy. Only getting like 4-5 very boring channels. Is this something I need to discuss with the Mgmt? Something else I need to do?

2. Says it has Site-wide Wifi. It does and its not bad, although Unsecured. How do I rectify this? I do have a Linksys N300 Router from my previous home, can I use that? Also have a Net Gear Booster. Does that help or hinder in obtaining these Site's wifi signals? We use 2 phones and laptop.

3. Black and Grey Tanks. I know how to fill them, maintain them in a simple way, what I would like to know is when we are camped here, when or how much time passes to empty the tanks? Is there a gauge or something that could tell me when I need to empty them? Or is there a time element to dump them? Grey is 60 gal Black is 30 and Fresh is 60 gal. Memory fails me, but not sure what the fresh tank is for. :facepalm: Something tells me we will be dumping them today since we have been here for 3 days.

4. What is the best way to maintain the 30 Amp usage? Example, I need to turn off X to run Y, do not run Y to run Z, what? Wife sometimes uses a blow dryer and so far she has tripped the breaker twice. :facepalm:

We will be here 3-4 months. Do we need to: Every couple days, take in the slide, lube the cables. Run awning in and out once a week? twice a week? Do not want it being "set" or something. Whats the best way to maintain these 2?

5. Charging Stations. We currently have chargers for the 2 iPhones one for the Laptop (Brand New Acer). One charger for a Dust Buster small vac. Chargers for our 2 Vapes, Do we.....Take them off when the item is charged? Can we leave them on all the time, like my laptop?

6. Where can I get a schematic for the under carriage for my RV? I would love to see the locations, wiring design, where everything is located under the floor, behind the walls et al of my RV. Is there a place I can get one?

So far, everything has been going very good. A small cabinet door above TV come loose, no problem, installed some anchors and good to go. Door pane covers are a little loose and tightened them with additional matching screws. Hinge arm on outer door came off, just screwed it back on. Nothing big. Need a praying emoticon here. :lol:

If all ya'll can think of anything else I am missing, please include them Thank you so much. :bow:

AC

[sourdough]

Welcome to the world of RVing. Covid put holes in my kids' lives as well.

Cable. On mine you put the source to TV then choose cable. Scan for channels. You have to do that at every campground/new location. Does yours have Key TV (by the way what year is it, new?). If not there is a booster button somewhere that needs to be be depressed if I recall (others will be more in depth I rarely use TV).

Site wide wifi....is subjective at best at various locations. If you want to read an email, probably good. Watch Netflix doubtful. I doubt you can use your router behind the existing router. I do have 2 wifi extenders I take with me to strengthen wifi signals at times. Your booster should do the same thing.

Tanks. You probably have a 60gal freshwater tank, 2 30 gal. gray tanks and a 30gal. black tank. I'm 99% sure you don't have one 60gal gray tank. You will also have 2 gray tank pull handles. One will be by the black tank pull and the other will probably be back toward the tires somewhere - they can be hard to find.

If it's new there is probably a little monitor panel on the wall with buttons to depress under each of the tanks along with the battery. On the virtual walk thru it was not visible so I figure it is behind the bathroom door in the living area. They are famous for being inaccurate and I never use them anymore. If they are 30 gal. tanks and there are 2 of you figure 3 days. At that point on a new trailer I wait for the bathroom gray tank to get completely full, always when I'm taking a shower, to know exactly when normal usage is going to fill it, note that, then drain on a schedule prior to that. I dump all of them at the same time dependent on how quick the bath gray tank fills which is always the first one.

Utilizing the 30A. With todays RVs stuffed full of power hogs 30A requires some working with. The first thing I would do, if you haven't, is purchase an Electrical Management System (EMS) to plug your trailer into. Either get a hardwired one inside the trailer or a unit with a remote for the inside so you can actually watch as you kick on various items to see exactly what they are doing to your usage. IMO it's the very best way to go vs just guessing and waiting for the breaker to flip.

Slides. There are some recommendations to exercise the slide(s) weekly. Obviously when you are living in it that is not realistic IMO. I stay in mine 3-5 months at a time and don't pull them in; they work just as well when I do that as when I run them in and out daily on a traveling trip. I'm assuming you have cable slides. If I were you I would go online and print out the Bal Accuslide installation, maintenance and adjustment manuals. If they are set up correctly now you just need to keep an eye on them going forward and know what to look for per the manuals. There are also lots of posts/threads pertaining to them, adjusting them etc. Just search when you have time.

Charging stations. I remove anything with a rechargeable battery like cells, vacuum, weedeater etc. I do leave my laptop plugged in all the time. You can leave the charging station connected because it won't pull a load unless there is something plugged into it drawing power.

Schematic. There are none. Hopefully you will never need to know the exact route, placement etc. of all the wiring and plumbing. If you do for some reason it will be a learning experience. Fixtures, appliances and plumbing are all basically the same but how the various wires and pipes are ran to accomplish that is generally a one off on each trailer.

Other stuff. Black tank flush. If you've used it and it worked great. If not, they many times present a problem. It's usually the backflow preventer probably located under your bathroom sink. If the flush won't work or leaks water post back.

Leaks. Once hooked up go under the sinks and make sure all connections are tight. If you aren't hooked up yet do it before you are.

Awning. Run it in/out whenever you want. The biggest thing is to pull it in anytime you won't be there, even for an hour, because one gust will ruin it. It probably has the autodump feature but if my last ones, when it dumps it pops loud enough to make you jump out of your skin. Just take one corner and adjust it down so the rain will run off.

Water. Any time you leave the RV turn off the water. If something lets go while you are absent the damage can be tremendous. Water, and the construction of an RV, are very much enemies. Along with water, get a good, adjustable water pressure regulator...with a gauge. Water pressures vary greatly from park to park and sometimes in the same park.

There will be more and others will chime in. Any questions or problems feel free to post and ask right away.

[SummitPond]

<clip>
3. Black and Grey Tanks. I know how to fill them, maintain them in a simple way, what I would like to know is when we are camped here, when or how much time passes to empty the tanks? Is there a gauge or something that could tell me when I need to empty them? Or is there a time element to dump them? Grey is 60 gal Black is 30 and Fresh is 60 gal. Memory fails me, but not sure what the fresh tank is for. :facepalm: Something tells me we will be dumping them today since we have been here for 3 days.
<clip>

It all depends on how much waste water you produce. You should have a gauge where you push a button and it illuminates a few lights indicating how full the tank is (one button for black, one for gray). Keep the valves closed until ready to dump. For the black, you can typically tell when it's getting full by the sound you hear when you flush the toilet. If the gray tank gets too full it usually backs up in the shower.

Dump the black first and use your tank rinse (if you have one). Then close the valve to the black tank and open the gray valve. This will also serve to flush out the drain hose of any solids that remain. Getting a clear adapter to go between the trailer connection and your sewer line is beneficial as you can see if things are flowing clear from the black tank.

Question: Did the tech not show or discuss this on your PDI?

<clip>
4. What is the best way to maintain the 30 Amp usage? Example, I need to turn off X to run Y, do not run Y to run Z, what? Wife sometimes uses a blow dryer and so far she has tripped the breaker twice. :facepalm:

<clip>

Others will probably say the same - get an Energy Management System. Mine (the Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C (https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw30c)) has a readout and indicates the current draw. You will have to learn to turn things off and on to balance your current draw, and having a meter to show what is being used is helpful (to me, at least). It has benefits beyond just showing current draw, however. It acts as a surge suppressor, monitors line voltage and frequency as well as verifies proper connection polarity-wise to shore power.

Best wishes!

Edit: I type too slowly! Danny beat me to it.

[BeagleMan]

Thank you, sir.

This is a 2019 Outback 260UML.

Have not looked in the back of TV yet. But, I will after this post. Its not a Key TV, i dont think. Just says Furrion. Has a radio and DVD player, not sure how that operates yet since I have not tried it.

I have a Camco 55301 Amp Power Defender on the post now. I take it that is not exactly a EMS, but will it do for now?

Appreciate the Manual suggestions, that will get done.

Yes, then, Laptop will be the only one on full time.

You are right about having 2-30gal tanks. Signed on panel as Gray 1 and Gray 2. Gray 2 is sitting on 1/3rd full. I am thinking Grey 1 is Bathroom Sink/Shower and we have not used Shower yet, just the bath houses.

Panel says Black is 1/3rd full. Flush out at 2/3rds?

Have the Water regulator. Pressure hooked up good and no problems.

Thanks for your input, sir. Let you know. Now, to Summit Pond.

AC

[markcee]

3. Black and Grey Tanks. I know how to fill them, maintain them in a simple way, what I would like to know is when we are camped here, when or how much time passes to empty the tanks? Is there a gauge or something that could tell me when I need to empty them? Or is there a time element to dump them? Grey is 60 gal Black is 30 and Fresh is 60 gal. Memory fails me, but not sure what the fresh tank is for. :facepalm:
AC

The freshwater tank is used to store water for use if you were at a campground not equipped with a 'city water' hookup. Water is drawn from the tank by turning on your trailer's water pump. The water pump is not needed when connected to a site with a 'city water' connection.

Even if you do not ever plan on camping at a site that does not offer a 'city water' hookup, it's prudent to travel with a bit of water in the fresh water tank for emergencies such as a bathroom break while on the road

[LHaven]

Cable: KeyTV isn't your actual TV, it's a distribution system in your trailer. On a 2019, it's a coin flip as to whether you have it. Look at the wall behind your TV -- if there is a 12V outlet plate with a tiny button on the side that lights an LED when you push it, you don't have Key TV. In this case, push the LED on if you are using your over-the-air TV antenna, and off if you are using park cable (this is important). You also have to change the settings on your TV to tell it which you are using. Then scan for channels, and you should get the best reception possible for your situation. Note: I have been in campgrounds where the camp cable is so boring that the local over-the-air selection was better.

Tanks: Your black tank will last a lot longer than the grays, which get sink and shower water. Even with showers, your gray should keep more than three days. There should be a gauge in the rig, but water gauges get dirty and are the first thing to become unreliable. (If you can trust them, great -- ours work fine, but many people's don't.)

Leave the dump valves shut until the tanks need dumping, then open them during the dumping process only. The grays will dump in maybe 60 seconds each, just open and close the valves. The black requires some additional flushing, a new deodorizer pod, hopefully a gray flush behind it to wash the crud out of the hose, etc., a little more labor intensive. Do not skimp on toilet flush water to extend your tank dump period, the water is needed to keep the contents from solidifying. The fresh tank is for camping in places where you have no water source (or for on-the-road restroom use), you won't need it in a commercial campground.

30A: The AC is the big consumer, followed by the microwave. Then any hi-amp stuff you may have brought: electric space heater, hairdryer, whatever. The rule is if you never use any two of these at once, you'll usually avoid popping any breakers. At least resetting breakers is easy. At worst, at a cost, you can always tether to your own phone service or get a dedicated cellular hotspot.

WiFi: If you're worried about using the camp's unsecured WiFi, the easiest thing to do is to get VPN software for your device(s) and make sure your firewall is on. You can install a hardware solution, but it's nowhere near that easy. At worst, at some cost, you can always get a dedicated WiFi hotspot, or even tether (personal hotspot) to your own phone devices.

Slide: Leave the slide out for the duration, don't add wear to the mechanism. Personally, I don't use my awning much, and I never leave it open for fear of windstorm when we're out or asleep. I put it out when we're outside and want it, then I take it in at night.

Chargers: Most devices don't mind being left on chargers when at capacity. The chargers draw negligible current when connected to something at capacity. Just leave them.

Schematic: No such thing. In the industry today, the rigs are all hand-built and no two rigs are built alike.

[sourdough]

Thank you, sir.

This is a 2019 Outback 260UML.

Have not looked in the back of TV yet. But, I will after this post. Its not a Key TV, i dont think. Just says Furrion. Has a radio and DVD player, not sure how that operates yet since I have not tried it.

I have a Camco 55301 Amp Power Defender on the post now. I take it that is not exactly a EMS, but will it do for now?

Appreciate the Manual suggestions, that will get done.

Yes, then, Laptop will be the only one on full time.

You are right about having 2-30gal tanks. Signed on panel as Gray 1 and Gray 2. Gray 2 is sitting on 1/3rd full. I am thinking Grey 1 is Bathroom Sink/Shower and we have not used Shower yet, just the bath houses.

Panel says Black is 1/3rd full. Flush out at 2/3rds?

Have the Water regulator. Pressure hooked up good and no problems.

Thanks for your input, sir. Let you know. Now, to Summit Pond.

AC


This is just my opinion so take it for what it's worth; Camco makes lots of stuff for RVs and RVing. IMO I don't think you could consider anything they make "top of the line". In many cases that's OK, I use some of their products, but on something like the EMS that protects you, your family and trailer I personally would not use one - even if that unit is priced very high for what you get.

It is "supposed" to be a unit similar to a Progressive Industries or Southwire Surge Guard (the 2 most popular units I know of) but just doesn't do any of it well from what I can tell. The lights don't tell you much, you can't read the legend on the back, can't see the lights in the day. I read 2 reviews that said water penetrated the housing and got inside damaging the unit (Camco says it is water resistant, not waterproof). Below is a link to some reviews that might shed some light for you. I've not seen reviews posted in a manner like that on you tube but I assume they are accurate;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCmJnGW_0_g

[BeagleMan]

http://https://uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/000098467089/media/1677129639690380/medium/1599435504/enhance

This is what I have behind my TV. Hope this works.

In case the pic does not show, all it is is the cable from the outside into the RF1 port and a plug with 2 cable ports with nothing on them.

[BeagleMan]

This is just my opinion so take it for what it's worth; Camco makes lots of stuff for RVs and RVing. IMO I don't think you could consider anything they make "top of the line". In many cases that's OK, I use some of their products, but on something like the EMS that protects you, your family and trailer I personally would not use one - even if that unit is priced very high for what you get.

It is "supposed" to be a unit similar to a Progressive Industries or Southwire Surge Guard (the 2 most popular units I know of) but just doesn't do any of it well from what I can tell. The lights don't tell you much, you can't read the legend on the back, can't see the lights in the day. I read 2 reviews that said water penetrated the housing and got inside damaging the unit (Camco says it is water resistant, not waterproof). Below is a link to some reviews that might shed some light for you. I've not seen reviews posted in a manner like that on you tube but I assume they are accurate;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCmJnGW_0_g

I get that. And I appreciate your input. I figured we are just starting out and in a few years we will be full time, but we wanted everything we could get at a nominal price point to get started and figured Camco is a good start. Trust me, when the Montana 3700LK arrives, we will be doing major upgrades and get the best we can get.

[LHaven]

This is what I have behind my TV. Hope this works.

In case the pic does not show, all it is is the cable from the outside into the RF1 port and a plug with 2 cable ports with nothing on them.

Your URL was malformed but I managed to massage it into working.

https://uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/000098467089/media/1677129639690380/medium/1599435504/enhance

I don't see the traditional amp power button or LED, so you may have the KeyTV. You should be able to find a box somewhere near the aft end of your rig that looks like this:

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZNDa2qWmxiM/W6UCOnpXZII/AAAAAAAAOMw/9rv453istvcxy5leGdjuJ8lvBMsZeEWHACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen-Shot-2018-09-20-at-1.27.01-PM-e1537470795809.png

Edit: Sometimes the amp button and LED are located on a TV plate other than the "main room" plate. There will be only one in the rig. Look in the bedroom and elsewhere for a TV connector that resembles this. If you want to watch antenna TV, this must be on, even if there is no TV on that plate.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/321891766309-0-1/s-l1000.jpg

I don't own a KeyTV, so I'm a bit bumfuzzled by the two naked coax ports at the bottom of your picture. In a non-KeyTV unit, these are for interposing a satellite box, and would otherwise be cross-connected with a short loop of coax, or you would get no signal at all.

[BeagleMan]

Ok. I have been around the rig and we have 2 coax ports. Fore and aft. Coaxial cable is connected to the aft to the post for camp cable. Now, I had installed them but just noticed that the connection was not tight, so I tighten it up after finding my tools. :facepalm:

I do have that type box in Bedroom. Just make sure it is ON, correct? For cable? Or just antennae TV?

[LHaven]

Always on for antenna, always off for cable. No other settings work.

If you haven't found a KeyTV box on your rig, you may want to see about getting a short piece of coax to loop those naked terminals.

[BeagleMan]

Always on for antenna, always off for cable. No other settings work.

If you haven't found a KeyTV box on your rig, you may want to see about getting a short piece of coax to loop those naked terminals.


What you mean by "loop the naked terminals"? Short cable from that to TV?

[LHaven]

Short cable connecting the two naked terminals together.

[BeagleMan]

Ok. Can do that tomorrow. Problem now is it wants me to run Channel Auto Scan. Darn blob all over the TV screen. Cannot get it stop or run.

[LHaven]

If you hit the menu button, that should stop the ethnic fire drill. But if you need that coax loop, you aren't going to find much on a scan until you install it.

[wiredgeorge]

BeagleMan, You will get enough advice to sink a battleship so I would just like to add:
ONLY USE RV TOILET PAPER. If you use a wifi router, get VPN set up on the router or at least on each of your connected devices. Open wifi allows others to see what you are doing pretty easily and a VPN makes this more difficult. Last bit; if you have to crawl under your rig to pull handles (there are sometimes one for the black tank, one for the gray tank and another for a gray galley tank) buy a Valterra twist on dump valve that connects onto your main sewer outlet and you can use it to dump your tanks by leaving those valves open. I use one because my galley tank dump valve is up under my slide and behind the rear wheel on the driver's side of my camper and crawling under the camper is truly and unpleasant experience in the rain or if the fire ants are hunting me (they like to live near water bibs). Example:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valterra-T58-Twist-On-Waste-Valve/55356052

[BeagleMan]

If you hit the menu button, that should stop the ethnic fire drill. But if you need that coax loop, you aren't going to find much on a scan until you install it.

Well, turning on the Menu button did not help, but I am assuming after I get the open ports closed off, it might change. I'll let you know.

Wiredgeorge, thanks for your input. A lot of that I knew, just not the VPN. My release valve openings for both tanks are well within my reach without having to crawl underneath, but I thank you for the tip and link. Device on wall says Grey 2 and Black tank are 2/3rds full. Looks like I am dumping tomorrow. But, one question, I read somewhere where this lady suggested just leaving the Grey 2 tank valve open all the time because we are camped here for a while. Could we not do that and the Grey 2 tank would just continually drain to the septic tank my hose is connected to? Or, would I have to keep it closed?

[Huntme]

I'm not sure if your TT Trailer has a hook up on the outside for Satelight TV,and Cable,mine has one in the back for Satelight,and one on the Door side for Cable WIFI,or Cable TV,you could have the same thing on yours.

[wiredgeorge]

Well, turning on the Menu button did not help, but I am assuming after I get the open ports closed off, it might change. I'll let you know.

Wiredgeorge, thanks for your input. A lot of that I knew, just not the VPN. My release valve openings for both tanks are well within my reach without having to crawl underneath, but I thank you for the tip and link. Device on wall says Grey 2 and Black tank are 2/3rds full. Looks like I am dumping tomorrow. But, one question, I read somewhere where this lady suggested just leaving the Grey 2 tank valve open all the time because we are camped here for a while. Could we not do that and the Grey 2 tank would just continually drain to the septic tank my hose is connected to? Or, would I have to keep it closed?


If you leave a gray tank open, there may not be sufficient gray water to help rinse the black tank discharge when you dump this tank. In addition, I left our galley tank open (since hard to get to) and our camper filled with sewer gnats that took quite a bit to get rid of. I wouldn't leave the gray tank open, ever.

[flybouy]

If you want to leave the gray tank open then arrange the drain hose to create a trap. You will need to put a "dip" in the hose (U shaped) of sufficient dip to hold water in the bottom of the U so air cannot pass.

If the blank tank drains via the same hose then close the gray tank until near full before dumping the black so you have enough gray water to "chase" the black water thru the "U".

[BeagleMan]

UPDATE:

First off, thanks to everyone who chimed in and helped me out. :bow:

First, got the cable and TV working now. Evidently the coax was not fully tightened to the TV. :facepalm: Working good now. Next, and I have not tried it yet, is the DVD player.

Second, I think I'll just leave the Grey Tank closed. I'm totally down to what wiredgeorge said. Did my first dumping yesterday and it went well. Although the red hose that was in the unit before has a teeny tiny spring leak found when emptying the Grey sink tank. That will be replaced easily.

Third, My Furrion oven is not lighting up. How would I drain the air out of that for the pilot to function? I have seen videos where they drain the air out and light the pilot on the bottom, but there is no access under oven. How would I know its even on? Honestly, have not tried it personally, just going by what the wife said. :whistling:

Fourth, I am looking into the VPN thing. I will get those for my 2 phones and laptop. If its a downloadable aspect, I can get it done.

Lastly, ordered some Stabilizer blocks as I did not want to perfectly level my TT with just blocks of wood. I am level now, but, I will feel better when i have what I want in possession. X Chocks will go the tires then.

Thanks again! I love these forums!

[wiredgeorge]

On the oven issue, turn on a burner and hold down till you smell a little gas. It takes awhile for the air to be purged and some of that depends on how long your gas line is relative to the tank. You might first go out and check the propane tank to ensure it isn't turned off. It would help if you went to the UserCP on the black bar at the top left of each page and set up a signature with your camper year/make/model as well as the same for your tow vehicle. I can't recall what type camper you have but many have two tanks and both should be left ON and the regulator in the center position. The tanks will have gauges to show if they are empty and when one empties if the regulator is left in the center position, propane will flow from the other tank. If you see RED on the gauge, the tank needs refill. If your tanks are over a certain age, you need to find a refill place that is certified to re-certify the tanks. I have a 2002 and of course have had to get re-certification done on both my tanks.


As already noted elsewhere, X-Chocks are NOT chocks and loosen when the tires loose pressure after cooling. They are for stabilizing the camper. They are fine as long as the wheels are actually chocked. I use RUBBER chocks as I have run over the plastic variety and they are toast after being squished. You need to put the chocks in place prior to unhooking especially if you have a fifth wheel as you raise the front a bunch when unhooking. Also put your parking brake on on the truck.

[BeagleMan]

My wheels are 14" wheels. Any need to upgrade to a 15? What does that entail?

[wiredgeorge]

This is actually a pretty complicated question. It would probably be of more benefit to describe your current tires; make/model, load range and date code. Often going up one load range will give you a little more margin but your current tires may be adequate and you will be burning money. Going 14 to 15 inch means new rims and unless you change hubs (starting to get expensive) you will be using the same 5 lug bolt pattern on the 15 inch rims and likely will be rated up to a Load Range D. I have Load Range E tires on my 15" rims and am technically filling with more air than their rated capacity I think but have never had a rim fail due to inflation. If you currently have Load Range D tires and go to a 15" rim with Load Range D tires, not much of an upgrade as I see it.

[sourdough]

Unless you are going to bump the trailer to max gvw (7600) the 205/75r14LRD tires should do fine. At approx. 2100lbs capacity at 65psi it would give you 8400lbs. IF (which I don't like to do) you deduct 912 lbs. from the gvw for tongue weight (7600 x 12%) it leaves 6688 theoretically on the tires.

That trailer has a carrying capacity of 1688 lbs. I don' know (recall?) if you have a large family or just a couple but that would be quite a bit of stuff. Maybe accumulate it over time though - I haven't made it there.....yet. So let's say you carry about what I do...maybe 1300lbs. That leaves the trailer at 7212 vs tire capacity of 8400 (1188 lb. reserve capacity) or approx. 16.5% reserve.

If you you had a bit larger trailer it would be worth the expense of going to the 15s (new wheels etc.) but where you sit I would not spend that money just for even more reserve capacity IMO.

[tundrwd]

Regarding wifi - as has been noted previously, if you want to do much more than get email, and some 'net surfing - I wouldn't count an ANY streaming.

Couple of possibilities...

I tried to check your N300 router, but there are so many "N300" derivatives for Linksys, I'm not sure what you have. It MIGHT be possible to "bridge" the N300 to the campsite's internet, but that only comes in one of two flavors:

You bridge the N300 to the campsites wifi, but need to hard wire everything else in your camper.
You bridge the N300 to some cabling (hard wired) in the campsites internet, and you could connect to your N300 using wifi.


IF (big if for the N300) the router supports a VPN connection, you might set up your router to VPN to the campsites internet, and then connecting to your N300, you have "some" protection. At that point, you relying on your wifi encryption to keep your communication "safe". (I'll just point out here - anyone who really wants anything on the internet can pretty much get it. Might take a nation-state actor - but the Chinese and North Koreans are really going after money - so they aren't JUST hacking governments).

But using your N300 will just cause another link in the chain that will slow you down somewhat more, and another link to break.

So - your best bet is to get software VPN ON YOUR DEVICES. I'd recommend something like NordVPN. I would not recommend the Norton crap being peddled. Norton quit being good stuff after it was sold to Symantec in the late '80s and early '90s.

Another possibility is to get a 'hot-spot' from AT&T/T-Mobile/Verizon and go with that. But that really depends on having a good 4G/LTE cellular signal to get any speed. Or, if you do get good speed - might check into using your cell phone as a hotspot too. Probably require a different cellular plan (you WILL eat up data - more than you think).

So that's about all I can think of/recommend.

[RoadToad]

Well, turning on the Menu button did not help, but I am assuming after I get the open ports closed off, it might change. I'll let you know.

Wiredgeorge, thanks for your input. A lot of that I knew, just not the VPN. My release valve openings for both tanks are well within my reach without having to crawl underneath, but I thank you for the tip and link. Device on wall says Grey 2 and Black tank are 2/3rds full. Looks like I am dumping tomorrow. But, one question, I read somewhere where this lady suggested just leaving the Grey 2 tank valve open all the time because we are camped here for a while. Could we not do that and the Grey 2 tank would just continually drain to the septic tank my hose is connected to? Or, would I have to keep it closed?

Might be OK to leave Grey open; but do not leave Black open; otherwise all fluid drains and leaves a pile of solids built up.
We keep all valves closed. When we dump the Black at 75%, we like to have the Grey available to "washdown" the Black residuals in the dump hose.
Then, run the Black tank flush fresh water hose connected device.

[wiredgeorge]

Might be OK to leave Grey open; but do not leave Black open; otherwise all fluid drains and leaves a pile of solids built up.
We keep all valves closed. When we dump the Black at 75%, we like to have the Grey available to "washdown" the Black residuals in the dump hose.
Then, run the Black tank flush fresh water hose connected device.


One thing I know for certain is that small gnats live in sewers; leave a gray valve open and you might have a chance to observe this in your camper.

[Mikelff]

As mentioned previously, it is possible to leave the GREY tank valve open if you find you are filling your grey tanks often. If you do, you need that p trap in your drain hose, or a u in the hose as to not let sewer air back into your tanks and eventually into you trailer. When you start getting close to emptying your BLACK tank, close your grey tank valve and let it fill so you you have grey water to flush your hose after you empty your black tank. Depends on how often your grey tanks fill up. Since you will be on site for a few months, you might want to do this. I have some 44 gal. Grey and black tanks and our family/grandkids fill those grey tanks often so if we are going to be in one spot for any length of time, I keep the grey open until I am getting close to empty the black. If you empty your grey tanks twice as often, or more, than the black, you might consider keeping the grey open.

[BeagleMan]

Yes, after talking with a few folks, in the know, I feel my best option right now is to not upgrade. I will, however, be looking to upgrade my suspension system. Thank you for your valued opines.

[BeagleMan]

Thank you sir, for that. Learned a few things in there. I am not fixed on that particular router, just the one that I have now. If I can upgrade, I will. For certain, will be adding VPN software to our phones. Been using my hotspot to generate better wifi here and seems to be working fine and secured. If I need to increase our data, we will. Only other question I have now is, how can go about getting a hardwired set up here? After Covid and the subsequent loss of my career, and at 56, I am not so inclined anymore of ever working a physical site job any longer. I have decided that I will heavily pursue remote/virtual jobs online until I retire. I'm too old to start over again. How can go about getting a hardwired set up here? Most, if not all, remote type places want a hardwired setup.
Thank you

[BeagleMan]

Might be OK to leave Grey open; but do not leave Black open; otherwise all fluid drains and leaves a pile of solids built up.
We keep all valves closed. When we dump the Black at 75%, we like to have the Grey available to "washdown" the Black residuals in the dump hose.
Then, run the Black tank flush fresh water hose connected device.

Nah. I'll stick to keeping them closed and dump when needed. Thats how I do it now. Just like you said.

[BeagleMan]

AC is FIXED!!! Glory be!!! Ended up being the control board on the inside of the interior unit. Soooooo, we got a local guy AC guy who knows about RV stuff and he had a wonderful idea. He has been working on FEMA trailers here in Florence and decided to kidnap one off the trailers and took one and replaced it with ours. :whistling: In essence, we got a brand new unit since the FEMA units were the same model as ours. We paid him and we will get the money reimbursed. But, bottom line is, it is working and it is cool as a turtles basement in here. So, it all worked out!

[sourdough]

AC is FIXED!!! Glory be!!! Ended up being the control board on the inside of the interior unit. Soooooo, we got a local guy AC guy who knows about RV stuff and he had a wonderful idea. He has been working on FEMA trailers here in Florence and decided to kidnap one off the trailers and took one and replaced it with ours. :whistling: In essence, we got a brand new unit since the FEMA units were the same model as ours. We paid him and we will get the money reimbursed. But, bottom line is, it is working and it is cool as a turtles basement in here. So, it all worked out!



That is great to hear. Glad you got it fixed.