Grey and Black Water Valves

[soaz2]

Newby here!

I am attaching some photos of our grey and black water valves. Not sure how to work these. They have set screws at two points on both the grey and black. Tried to pull out on the grey water valve, nothing. Any help would be much appreciated. Oh, we have a 2011 Keystone Bullet.

Thanks in advance for your help!

[flybouy]

Did you try pushing them in? They look like they are pulled out to me.

[soaz2]

Not yet. They twist and flop also, so not sure if they're broken. Should they turn both clockwise and counterclockwise? There are also 2 screws in the shaf that appear to be set set screws? Thanks for the reply!

[chuckster57]

They sure look like regular pull/push valves. And yes, like Marshall said they look like they are pulled out (open). Push them in, and you should be able to remove the cap.

If you ran any water or flushed the toilet, there will be nasty water when you open the cap. Might want to wear gloves and have a bucket underneath.

[sourdough]

They do look like they are open. I see those set screws on the tubes going into the trailer. I've not seen (or noticed) those before. If they are to cinch down the valve handle to keep it from moving, I guess I'm not sure why that would be. If you try to push the handles in and they won't move I would take whatever type of driver those set screws use and see if loosening them does anything??

[chuckster57]

I bet the set screws are for the valve rod extensions. You should be able to rotate the rods clockwise to tighten them up to the actual valve. If they flop around I would say they came disconnected. Your going to have to open up the underbelly and thread them back on.

[flybouy]

And get some expandable foam and close up those openings around the drain pipe and pull handles. Look for any other opening like around the low point drains. Mice see a bright flashing neon "Welcome" sign with openings like that.

[soaz2]

That's what I was afraid of. Well thanks for the input, much appreciated. We'll get after it tomorrow.

[chuckster57]

Your welcome.

If the underbelly is nailed in place you can cut the rivet heads off. Just do enough to reach up and fix the rods then use stainless steel self tapping screws and the original washer.

[sourdough]

Once you get them reconnected and working just make a practice of always turning them clockwise (gently until they feel secure) when you pull them to dump. They will loosen from time to time but I've just gotten in that habit to try to eliminate the possibility of them eventually coming loose.

[QCMan]

I was just going to start a thread asking if they are rivets or nails. Should I presume that cutting the exposed part off will release the part going into the frame so it can be driven up and replaced with a screw? Thanks for the help!

[JRTJH]

Once you cut off the head of the "pneumaticlly driven nail" you'll be able to use a punch and hammer to drive the remaining part "up and out of the frame rail". Be careful to "collect all the sharp points" as they can (and do) have a habit of falling in front of the tires at the "most inopportune times".....

[soaz2]

Ok guys, here's what I've discovered. The valve handles have been unscrewed, and an extension added between the male thread on the valve, and the valve handle. Thus, the two set screws to firm the extension. The extensions are needed because to screw the valve handles on can't be done because the handles are too close to the bottom and prevents the valve handle wings from rotating. Anybody ever see this? I could cut away some of the bottom, but that seems like it would invited guests.

[chuckster57]

You can get valve handles with the extension rod in a variety of lengths. I would venture a guess that the previous owner installed what you see so he/she wouldnt have to bend over or lean in that far to operate the valves.

You can simply put those back on, or you could get new rods in the length you want. If the threads of the vavles are exposed and you can put the rods back on without cutting anything thats best.