Water Heater Problem

[markcee]

Our trailer is parked at a seasonal location that we use on weekends. Last week I had a propane issue that ended up being a bad changeover regulator. I ordered a new one and swapped it out today. The fridge and stove are now good to go on propane, but I can get the Suburban SW6DEL water heater to light (works fine on electric). I can hear the igniter sparking but nothing ignites. It tries 3x as the manual states and then locks out. I let it sit and then turned it back 'on' to 'gas' from the InCommand control panel, but still nothing.

I read the manual but am a bit confused as to exactly what I need to do to reset. It talks about turning off the gas and electric for 5 minutes. Is this literally like disconnecting the battery?, shore power?, turning off the propane at the tank? Was hoping someone could clarify before I continue.

[chuckster57]

How many times have you “cycled” the water heater? Depending on how far away it is from the cylinders it may take 4 or 5 tries.

There is a test you can do to rule out gas flow, but I think you just need to try a few more cycles.

[markcee]

Just 2x so far. So....you mean just continue to try what i've been doing? Put InCommand on 'gas' and let it fire away until lock out, wait 5 minutes, turn it back on thru InCommand and give it another go?

[chuckster57]

You could. If after 5 or 6 tries it doesn’t light post back for further tests.

[ChuckS]

I’d simply go outside to the water heater and place a finger on each of the two propane solenoid valves... you will feel a “thunk” if each solenoid is opening...

Pic of my thumb in one of the two solenoids... they both must open else you will get no propane flow...

If you feel a thunk from solenoid then that indicates they are opening and you should get a faint odor of propane..

[markcee]

You could. If after 5 or 6 tries it doesn’t light post back for further tests.

OK, 4 more cycles and still nothing. Same drill, 3x and out.

[markcee]

I’d simply go outside to the water heater and place a finger on each of the two propane solenoid valves... you will feel a “thunk” if each solenoid is opening...

Pic of my thumb in one of the two solenoids... they both must open else you will get no propane flow...

If you feel a thunk from solenoid then that indicates they are opening and you should get a faint odor of propane..

My solenoid is facing to the rear so hard to get my fingers on each side, but after 5 seconds or so of spark, it do feel what I would describe as a 'thunk'. However, zero smell of propane.

[chuckster57]

Ok. Time for more drastic measures. Turn off every LP device.

Then with the propane turned on, using 2 wrenches, open up the flare fitting at the gas valve. If you don’t feel/smell any propane then there is a delivery problem.

USE 2 wrenches any time your dealing with propane fittings. If you do get propane, then tighten the fitting and spray with soapy water to test for leaks.

If you do have propane at the flare, then post back.

[markcee]

Ok. Time for more drastic measures. Turn off every LP device.

Then with the propane turned on, using 2 wrenches, open up the flare fitting at the gas valve. If you don’t feel/smell any propane then there is a delivery problem.

USE 2 wrenches any time your dealing with propane fittings. If you do get propane, then tighten the fitting and spray with soapy water to test for leaks.

If you do have propane at the flare, then post back.

I think you need to be more specific for me. I have flow to every other appliance....2 stoves (strong blue flames) and the refrigerator. So where exactly am I looking for no flow. Are you talking at the tank?? i would think if u are talking about the flare fitting at the tank, this would mean i have flow??

[chuckster57]

I’m talking at the water heater. That rubber hose is a flare fitting, and if you hold the 90 degree fitting with one wrench you can loosen the gas line with the other wrench.

I have loosened up that fitting on lots of water heaters. If you don’t get a decent amount of flow/smell then the issue is in the gas line. Just make sure you tighten the fitting back up and use a solution to check for any leak.

If you do have flow, then it’s time to get out some tools.

[markcee]

I’m talking at the water heater. That rubber hose is a flare fitting, and if you hold the 90 degree fitting with one wrench you can loosen the gas line with the other wrench.

I have loosened up that fitting on lots of water heaters. If you don’t get a decent amount of flow/smell then the issue is in the gas line. Just make sure you tighten the fitting back up and use a solution to check for any leak.

If you do have flow, then it’s time to get out some tools.

The only thing that looks rubber to me is this boot like appendage inside the compartment. See to the right in posted pic. Other than that I see the propane line branching off to the water heater when I look on the underside of the coach....that does have a flare fitting.

[ChuckS]

Your pic..

Green circled item is your Ignitor... the green arrow points to 1 bolt that you could remove the ignitor to check the gap if necessary

The red circled area is where your propane flows into the dual solenoid manifold.. the B nut on the elbow fitting... if you can get wrench in there is where Chuckster57 wants you to loosen this fitting up with all other appliances off and see if propane flows with that fitting loose..

If it does then you know you are getting propane flow to the dual solenoid.. be sure ..as previously stated to tighten up and leak check with soap and water mix sprayed on the B nut you loosen to verify no leaks...

[markcee]

Thanks...will give it a try in the a.m. just seems strange to me that a bad regulator, that is swapped out....correcting all other propane delivery issues doesn’t also correct this one. Will keep u posted and thank you.

Dumb question, but when u say appliances ‘off’ u mean just not actively using propane? For instance, no stove burners on? Can I keep fridge on electric during my test?

[ChuckS]

I see no problem with leaving fridge on in electric mode. The test Chuckster57 is wanting you to do will verify that you don’t have a piece of crap in the main feed line coming to your water heater.

You said you could hear the igniter making a popping sound so most likely the igniter gap on electrode is good.

If you have propane flow when you loosen fitting circled in pic then either one of those two solenoids aren’t opening or the orifice jet is blocked

[ChuckS]

Inside the propane feed tube is a very small orifice opening that can get crap in there and it will block flow of propane thru the tube. Red line in pic indicates orifice

[chuckster57]

The orifice was my next step.

Remove the burner tube and you can take out the orifice. DO NOT use any type of poking device. Use compressed air and blow it out “backwards” ( opposite of the gas flow). Put it back in and try again.

[markcee]

Not sure what happened, but I switched the InCommand to 'Electric' to get through 'til tomorrow. 3o min later and no hot water. Uh Oh. Decided to reset the 120v WH breaker. Wasn't tripped, but did so anyway. Just for the hell of it, I then also switched InCommand WH setting to 'Both' Immediately after doing so, it hit me that I had left the compartment switch for 'Electric' set to 'off'. Figured gas wasn't going to work and that was obviously why WH didn't heat on electric, so went outside to set the switch correctly. To my surprise, I heard the WH propane burner start roaring away.

So, not sure WTH happened, but all good now. Will keep tabs and post back if issues. As usual, thanks so much for all you input and suggestions. You guys are awesome and I very much appreciate the time you take answering questions so promptly and providing your expertise. I'm learning a lot!

[notanlines]

I suspect that this was one of CrazyCain's 'ghosts' that have popped up here and there over the years.
Although, more realistically I believe you finally reached the magical number of try-try-again's to get the propane to the burner.

[JRTJH]

^^^ I agree with Jim....

Most (at least many) water heaters need 5 attempts to get enough propane to the water heater so it will light... Occasionally there's one that needs 6 or 7 attempts before all the air is purged from the line....

Then there's yours that needs 11 attempts..... Consider yourself lucky that you forgot the electric switch was off... There are no "refunds on mobile service calls" if the tech arrives, turns the water heater on and it works as designed :hide:

[razor 68]

glad yours started working. I have the same water heater in a 2018 Laredo 330rl. did same thing and had to replace the control board. bought it on line and replaced myself. had fallen off the top of the water heater and was stuffed behind it. was not too bad to do except a fairly small bin opening.fired right up after board replacement

[Tom N OH]

We started out with a 1985 Yellowstone travel trailer that had a gas only water heater with a standing pilot light that had to be lit manually. EVERY time we used that thing, it took me a half hour of holding the knob on the gas valve to “Pilot” to get gas flow all the way to the WH at the very back of the trailer before I could get that pilot lit. The “good” old days.....

[wiredgeorge]

We started out with a 1985 Yellowstone travel trailer that had a gas only water heater with a standing pilot light that had to be lit manually. EVERY time we used that thing, it took me a half hour of holding the knob on the gas valve to “Pilot” to get gas flow all the way to the WH at the very back of the trailer before I could get that pilot lit. The “good” old days.....


Had an older Lance truck camper that required a match to light the pilot light on the water heater (or one of those long lighters for a fireplace). No trouble with propane flow as it was on the other side of the camper about 7' away.

[Khorsam]

I was reading through this thread because I have a similar issue. Just getting the trailer ready after sitting in storage, so I know I have to have the water heater cycle through a few times. But I've cycled the heater 15 to 20 times and nothing. I know I'm getting LP flow; the stove and fridge both ignite. I can get a whiff of LP by the heater but I don't get any ignition and I don't hear any "clicking" when it attempts to cycle.

Any thoughts before I take it down to the shop for service?

Thanks in advance.

Robert

[chuckster57]

Make and model of W/H would help. Some have a mini 2A fuse on the control board.

[Khorsam]

Sorry... it is the same type as what was originally being talked about in this thread... Suburban SW6DEL.

[chuckster57]

The control board is on the back side and the igniter wire plugs into it.

I would verify that the igniter wire is plugged in, and after that you need to check the gap on the electrodes.

[Khorsam]

The "backside"? The igniter wire is siliconed into the housing. Do I have to pull the entire water heater out to get at it? I've attached a couple of pics.

[chuckster57]

There should be access inside. It may be a panel with screws, it could be behind a drawer.

[Khorsam]

Took a look this morning. There is no easy access panel.

The control board is on top of the water tank behind a panel that is stapled. It's the back of the bench seats. I'll have to see if there is a way to pull that away from the frame without destroying the panel.

[chuckster57]

Can you take the cushion off, the platform may be screwed down in the corners.

[Khorsam]

I attempted to remove the panelling... no access behind it.

I did find out there is access through the storage door just beside the heater. Two screws holding down a half-box. Remove those screws and slide out the half-box and you can get access to the control board.

The board was shot. Put in a new one and everything fired up perfectly. A little disappointing for a 2018 model to have the control board crap out.

Thanks for all the assistance.

[ChuckS]

OEM< igniter boards are often not that great.. The best replacement.. IMMO is one made by Dinosaur

[chuckster57]

OEM< igniter boards are often not that great.. The best replacement.. IMMO is one made by Dinosaur

I agree 110%