New member in Colorado-Keystone Fuzion 5th Wheel Toy Hauler

[sberniger]

1-Having trouble recently with switching from electric to propane on our fridge. Had to drive all the way to Sturgis hoping our stuff stayed cold enough until we plugged in again. Any ideas on what we are doing wrong.

2-Also the slides won't work unless we are plugged in to electric. We just bought a new battery last year and we charged it well a couple of weeks ago.

3-It is also always a struggle to get the legs extended to raise up to attach to truck. So slow and runs out of power quickly.

Would appreciate any advise someone could give to these new RV owners.

Thank you,

Sharon

[JRTJH]

First, welcome to the forum.

You don't indicate which model Fuzion you have, which refrigerator is installed, what type, size or quantity of battery/batteries you have installed or how many slides you have, if your system uses a hydraulic pump or electric motors to actuate slides and front landing gear, or whether your trailer has "auto leveling system" or "electric/hydraulic front landing gear without auto leveling"...

That list seems extensive... It is !!! That list also requires A LOT OF ELECTRIC POWER !!!!! Many dealerships install a "single GP24 battery" in a new trailer at delivery to the customer.... It's a CHEAP way to get you out the door and make a few more dollars from the sale.... It's also a EXPENSIVE way for the new owner to find out that a single battery doesn't have enough power capacity to open the slides, much less level the unit, run the refrigerator/lights/remote control system......

Without knowing which trailer you have, what equipment you're trying to power or even how much "battery power" you have onboard, it's impossible to say for sure, but I'd suspect your trailer is "woefully underpowered" in the battery situation...

If you want some "objective suggestions" then you'll first need to identify which trailer you own, what type of equipment you're trying to power and what symptoms you're actually seeing (things like one slide works, then things slow down or we can get unhitched using the landing gear, but the trailer will only start to level, then it quits)...

Tell us more and you'll get much more accurate suggestions.....

[chunker]

1-Having trouble recently with switching from electric to propane on our fridge. Had to drive all the way to Sturgis hoping our stuff stayed cold enough until we plugged in again. Any ideas on what we are doing wrong.

2-Also the slides won't work unless we are plugged in to electric. We just bought a new battery last year and we charged it well a couple of weeks ago.

3-It is also always a struggle to get the legs extended to raise up to attach to truck. So slow and runs out of power quickly.

Would appreciate any advise someone could give to these new RV owners.

Thank you,

Sharon

Reference the slow electric, check all the ground connections for good connections. Also remove the battery cables and clean the battery posts and cable ends with a battery brush. The slides use a lot of amps so if connections are bad or battery weak, they will be slow or not work. For the refer make sure the gas is on and air out of the system. Get a good flame on the stove which I presume is close by before trying to switch to propane.

If you will create a sig line with the year, make and model RV along with your tow vehicle, it will help with responders to your issues. Also when describing a problem telling the brand and model of the appliance helps.


EDIT ADDING, just saw John was typing when I was, good luck with it.

[sberniger]

Thank you for all of that. I will find out all of that detailed information and get back with you as soon as possible for more advice.

[sberniger]

2010 Fuzion FZ302-hauled by Ram 2500 Diesel 2017
1 battery-Interstate Deep Cycle MB 550 CCA
Electric motor
2 slides
Electric/hydraulic front landing gear, no auto leveling
Refrigerator-Dominic

[CedarCreekWoody]

It sounds you have no 12 volt power when not plugged in. You may have an inline circuit breaker that is tripped. Fridge requires 12 volts to operate on propane. Check for 12 volts at the appliances when not plugged in.

[sberniger]

Thank you. Will check.

[sourdough]

I would just reiterate that the single battery you have is not sufficient to try to carry all the "stuff" you have on that trailer without the converter being connected to power and help. It will die quickly. Sounds as if you may dry camp, if so you need at least 2 deep cycle (not a hybrid like you have) batteries of some kind.

[chunker]

I would just reiterate that the single battery you have is not sufficient to try to carry all the "stuff" you have on that trailer without the converter being connected to power and help. It will die quickly. Sounds as if you may dry camp, if so you need at least 2 deep cycle (not a hybrid like you have) batteries of some kind.

Let me add to sourdough's battery suggestion. The typical "deep cycle" that goes in RVs is really a marine dual purpose "hybrid" and not very effective for dry camping especially just one GP24 of them. A true deep cycles would be a 6v like used in golf carts. Get 2 of them hooked up in series for the 12v and you'll have far more usable amps available. If you wanted to stay with the dual purpose 12v then increasing size to a GP27 or better yet 29 or 31. IF the battery tray will hold the larger size.

EDIT There are TRUE deep cycle in GP 27, 29, 31 but they are heavy. I was at one of those battery stores a couple years ago and looked at their deep cycle batteries and a GP29 was over 110# as I recall. But a much better choice than the marine starting battery if you boon dock much. Another option in the short term is connect the trailer to the truck, keep the truck running so the truck's electrical system can help.

[travelin texans]

2010 Fuzion FZ302-hauled by Ram 2500 Diesel 2017
1 battery-Interstate Deep Cycle MB 550 CCA
Electric motor
2 slides
Electric/hydraulic front landing gear, no auto leveling
Refrigerator-Dominic

That single battery is marine type battery used to start boat motors & running a small trolling motor as indicated by the 550 CCA (cold cranking amps) which is not a good choice for RV use.
You'd be better served by a pair of group 27 or 31 true deep cycle batteries listing only amp hour rating (ah) with them connected in parallel.

[Dan Lockwood]

I'm a rookie as well, but when I left Michigan for home in Missouri, I needed to run my fridge on gas. It wouldn't turn on when switched to gas. I quickly figured out that I had turned off the main 12v disconnect switch in the water control compartment. As soon as I turned back on the disconnect, the fridge lit up and worked great.

I was told to NEVER travel with the 12v disconnect ON, so force of habit it got turned off before trying to get my fridge lit up.

I think the others have probably answered your questions already. Just wanted to share a rookie mistake.

Good luck with your rig...��

[flybouy]

I'm a rookie as well, but when I left Michigan for home in Missouri, I needed to run my fridge on gas. It wouldn't turn on when switched to gas. I quickly figured out that I had turned off the main 12v disconnect switch in the water control compartment. As soon as I turned back on the disconnect, the fridge lit up and worked great.

I was told to NEVER travel with the 12v disconnect ON, so force of habit it got turned off before trying to get my fridge lit up.

I think the others have probably answered your questions already. Just wanted to share a rookie mistake.

Good luck with your rig...��

I don't know who told you to turn the battery disconnect off while traveling hut there's no reason to. In fact, doing so will prevent the truck from charging the battery and if not wired correctly could disable the emergency brakes if the trailer and truck become disconnected.

[travelin texans]

I'm with Marshall!
Don't know who or why anyone would give that useless piece of information.
In fact that disconnect DOES NOT totally disconnect the batteries when in storage & will be completely dead in a matter of days. The only sure total battery disconnect is the disconnect the negative battery cable is that goes directly to ground.

[Mikelff]

I'm with Marshall!
Don't know who or why anyone would give that useless piece of information.
In fact that disconnect DOES NOT totally disconnect the batteries when in storage & will be completely dead in a matter of days. The only sure total battery disconnect is the disconnect the negative battery cable is that goes directly to ground.

Ditto the above! In addition to this is you need a trickle charger connected to your batteries when in storage if possible. This will keep your batteries charged and they will last longer.
Sure sounds like you are draining your battery if the jacks slowly come to a stop. Just read a good article about batteries yesterday in the RV Life blog. # 1 pick was a lithium deep cycle battery. They are expensive, but have 10 year replacement warranty. They cover several other battery types and brands. Suggest you check this out and pick what best fits your needs.

[Dan Lockwood]

Ditto the above! In addition to this is you need a trickle charger connected to your batteries when in storage if possible. This will keep your batteries charged and they will last longer.
Sure sounds like you are draining your battery if the jacks slowly come to a stop. Just read a good article about batteries yesterday in the RV Life blog. # 1 pick was a lithium deep cycle battery. They are expensive, but have 10 year replacement warranty. They cover several other battery types and brands. Suggest you check this out and pick what best fits your needs.

One of the first things I did for my rig when in storage was to get a solar panel wired into my batteries. It came with a micro controller that I mounted inside the battery/hydraulics area. This is a 40w panel and it does a good job of keeping my batteries up to charge when in storage. All other times out of storage, I'm on my house 50 amp power or in a campground on 50 amp power. I made up the mount with magnets to snap to my pin box. Although my old pin box is now gone and I have a new MorRyde pin box and the mounts will need to be changed for it. When in my storage lot spot, it points directly south, what were the changes of that... :)

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL846/863774/24841920/414336084.jpg

[sarahdove]

We had your problems with the slides and landing gear at a campground when we were getting ready to leave. We have a 2015 Fuzion 397 TH. I won't go into everything that happened when we finally got the slides in and landing gear up. We took it to an RV repair and the guy was GREAT that diagnosed the problem. All he did was re-program the computer. We now even use the remote for the slides and landing gear.

[sberniger]

Thank you all for this valuable info. We are having some service done on our trailer now but the next time we get it out we will definitely get 2 new batteries as suggested. And will check the 12v disconnect switch in the water compartment to see if we turned it off for our issue with the fridge.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

[P&DZ]

Welcome to the forum from Fort Collins. Many knowledgeable members who give great advice.

[KimNTerry]

Welcome also from Windsor.

[travelin texans]

Thank you all for this valuable info. We are having some service done on our trailer now but the next time we get it out we will definitely get 2 new batteries as suggested. And will check the 12v disconnect switch in the water compartment to see if we turned it off for our issue with the fridge.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

The factory disconnect WILL NOT totally disconnect your batteries resulting in dead batteries in a matter of a couple days in storage. Remove the negative cable from the battery that goes directly to ground or remove the batteries & stored in your garage. If storing in your garage connect them to a trickle charger & check water levels occasionally topping off with distilled water.
When purchasing new batteries be sure they are true deep cycle not marine type starting batteries. If the batteries have CCA or CA followed by a number they are not suited for RVs, what you want have AH followed by a number, generally group 24, 27 or 31 12 volt batteries.

[gkainz]

And a "howdy, neighbor" from Arvada.

[Kzneft]

On my Keystone I had somewhat the same problem on the propane going to the fridge. Seems when the slideout was in the lines underneath got pinched, so it cut off the propane to the fridge and stove. Once I re-routed the lines everything worked perfectly.

[Rocketsled]

Welcome from Parker, I'm with the folks that say you don't have enough battery to do what you want.

Do you have a Genset?

If I'm not hooked up to shore power, I'll fire it up for a little bit to pull the slides out.

Folks have also been known to run them while going down the road to keep the AC going and in a bind, you could use it to run the fridge/keep the battery charged. (Is it safe? It is according to Onan, assuming a professional install) It'll use some gas, but if you're worried about your milk curdling...

But it really sounds like your inverter isn't doing what it needs to be doing. The power from the truck should be enough to charge your battery and keep your fridge running. We upgraded ours when doing to 2 6v batteries and the new inverter did things our old one never did (like spun up the cooling fans when charging the batteries.)