Will a low power Battery cause a Dometic Fridge to NOT switch to LP Mode?

[Scttw]

Morning all ....

Recently my dual mode Dometic 4 door fridge fails to switch from Hydro to LP when we lose power.

It "tries" to switch but tosses out an E3 error code. It's still covered under my X-Warrenty and my dealer has ordered a new Board for it and they will come up to the park when it's parked and swap it out.

That being said, when I do lose power I also have noticed that using the battery powered lights inside, they will flicker on and off instead of working properly. Something is up with the battery. I pull it in the winter and trickle it monthly and it's always charged very quickly.

This has prompted me to wonder if a bad cell is in the battery and if it's not at the proper load, will this have anything to do with the fridge not switching over or are those 2 problems completely unrelated? I plan to take the battery to my local store for a load test, but I just thought I would check. I'd feel a little guilty if that's the issue, and not the board.

Fridge works perfect other than the switch over. As soon as hydro returns it changes back to normal.

Thanks in advance!!!!

[JRTJH]

My guess, with the flickering lights, is that your 6+ year old battery is probably the reason for the refrigerator issues as well as for the lighting problems.... Essentially, when you unplug from shore power, the battery is not producing enough voltage/amperage to fully power the ignitor in the refrigerator LP system, causing the "failure to switch to LP operation"....

If your battery is a "hybrid", then be sure to get a "Deep cycle battery" and not a "hybrid start/deep cycle" as a replacement. If the new battery has "CCA" in the description of available amps/power, then it's not a true "deep cycle battery"...

[Scttw]

Thank you SO much. I figured it was possible. I'll follow your instructions :):lol:

[ChuckS]

My 2014 Alpine has the 4 door Dometic. It’s been a great fridge so far..

Your issues most likely are due to...
.. old battery
.. corroded and loose battery connections as well as a frame ground connection that right there in the battery compartment... look at the large white cables connected to frame... you can’t see condition of surface behind them...remove, clean surface and terminals and reconnect

WFCO stock converter... I’m still running mine... have you checked the output voltage of that converter with batteries disconnected? Should read 13.4 to 13.8 ..

I’d also have two batteries in that Alpine... Grp 27 or two GC2 gold cart batteries...the GC2s are what I use... bigger plates and they will outlast any convention wet cell 12 volt battery...

Since your full time at stationary location one largest size 12 volt that will fit might be easier choice for your situation

[Scttw]

Update ......

Yep - it was 100% the battery. The dealership did not even ask me about this. I figured it was a possibility, you guys confirmed and was exactly the problem. It works fine now when I kill the power.

Thanks again.

Scott

[travelin texans]

Be sure to check the water levels in each cell & top off with distilled water regularly to keep that new battery in tip top charge condition.