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mikec557
07-25-2020, 04:18 PM
Well this is a curiosity question at this point because the furnace works fine... but:

Rig: 2020 26RBSWE, built 10/2019
Has the InCommand system
Connected to 50amp service


Camping at the Oregon coast, maybe high 50s at night. Rather than use our propane furnace, I set the electric fireplace to 64 degrees and let that come on and off all night.

Woke up at 5am, couldn't sleep, made coffee. I decided I wanted to warm up the camper faster than the fireplace can do it, so I use the InCommand panel. Wake it up, press HVAC, select heat, dial up the temp to 75.

A moment later the furnace responds with one loud, one second long beep that could wake the dead, then starts up properly. Blows out the firebox of any standing propane gas, repeatedly sparks the igniter, propane solenoid clicks open, gas flows and its flame on. Furnace runs until room temp is 75, and then shuts down.

A short time later the room temp has fallen and the system calls to run the furnace again...

Which again begins with a loud one second beep. If it did that through out the night I'd probably have to shoot it, LOL.

As for my batteries, I have 2 lithium battleborn 100 amp batteries and a Progressive Dynamics charger/converter for lithium batteries.

They have a full charge, and I've been plugged into 50amp at the campground for days. I even turned off the charger converter, waited and hour and took a read on battery voltage, 14v, which is a very full lithium reading.

What could be causing the beep?

mikec557
07-25-2020, 06:20 PM
Update:

After employing a second person to turn on the furnace so I could listen more accurately for the sound of the beep, I think the beep is coming from the rooftop ac. I'm not positive, but I think that's the location.

When the InCommand thermostat calls for heat I can hear a small relay click in the AC unit (as I stand directly under it inside the rv) and then I hear the loud beep that I think is coming from that general area. I'll take the inside shield off the ac unit tomorrow and see if I can be more certain where the beep is coming from.

But for now I can say I do NOT think the beep is coming from the floor area where the furnace, breaker/fuse panel, and converter/charger are located.

Any ideas/thoughts would be welcome.

QCMan
07-25-2020, 06:51 PM
Mikec557: please keep us updated on this as I have an eastern edition of your unit but being in the nineties here it is tough to test the heater. Our lows are only eighty or so. We typically don't need heat on our trips but that beep would make me nuttier than I am now. Thanks.

mikec557
07-25-2020, 08:43 PM
Mikec557: please keep us updated on this as I have an eastern edition of your unit but being in the nineties here it is tough to test the heater. Our lows are only eighty or so. We typically don't need heat on our trips but that beep would make me nuttier than I am now. Thanks.

Will do. I have a couple ideas to investigate before I report back. That will take me a couple days. But win or lose, I'll let you know what I find.

Rockivy
05-24-2021, 08:44 PM
Update:

After employing a second person to turn on the furnace so I could listen more accurately for the sound of the beep, I think the beep is coming from the rooftop ac. I'm not positive, but I think that's the location.

When the InCommand thermostat calls for heat I can hear a small relay click in the AC unit (as I stand directly under it inside the rv) and then I hear the loud beep that I think is coming from that general area. I'll take the inside shield off the ac unit tomorrow and see if I can be more certain where the beep is coming from.

But for now I can say I do NOT think the beep is coming from the floor area where the furnace, breaker/fuse panel, and converter/charger are located.

Any ideas/thoughts would be welcome.

Hi there i am having the same issue when the furnace starts there is a beep, does not matter if I'm running full battery (AGM 2x 12volt), 120vac Shore power or my 2200 Watt gen, it doesn't happen All the time randomly, however when on battery i had two cases where the beep was continuous (and at 1230am and 3 am) I found it to be the fridge my check light came on briefly with one beep and continuously the check light was one with continuous beeping, still looking for an answer because the dometic manual says voltage issue possibly and only if it drops below 9.6 Volta so not sure what is happening it's not all the time just random and i really don't want to contact the dealer the are terrible and takes 3 months to get an appointment

mikec557
05-25-2021, 06:37 AM
Hi there i am having the same issue when the furnace starts there is a beep, does not matter if I'm running full battery (AGM 2x 12volt), 120vac Shore power or my 2200 Watt gen, it doesn't happen All the time randomly, however when on battery i had two cases where the beep was continuous (and at 1230am and 3 am) I found it to be the fridge my check light came on briefly with one beep and continuously the check light was one with continuous beeping, still looking for an answer because the dometic manual says voltage issue possibly and only if it drops below 9.6 Volta so not sure what is happening it's not all the time just random and i really don't want to contact the dealer the are terrible and takes 3 months to get an appointment

Good morning. Last night I saw you have a thread going on the same problem and thought I'd comment on it today. Just didn't get to it yet. :-)

I haven't been able to test my fix yet, but here's what I discovered and did to try to eliminate it.

I have a 2020 (built 10/2019) 26RBSWE. On my TT the furnace and refrigerator and built in stereo and a dual port USB port are all on the same 15 amp fuse in the fuse panel. I also have the In-Command system. Because of that there is a black box inside the air conditioner, I think it's called a gateway. It uses its brain every time the a/c or furnace is called upon for duty. I don't know if it's powered by 12vdc but I think it is, so add that too to being on the same 15 amp fuse.

I can't be sure, but I think the beeping is coming from the refrigerator. I think it's the audible alarm to tell you it has lost power and is off. I think it trips because when the furnace turns on and pulls down the 12v to both spin the squirrel cage blower and light up the igniter, momentarily the fridge thinks it's not getting enough 12v.

To that end, I removed the fridge from that 15 amp circuit and created a new one exclusively for the fridge. But so far I haven't been able to test it and prove or disprove my theory. As soon as I can I'll post the results here.

I'm not sure about the SAB's layout, so I don't know if my wire routing will work for you. But here's what I did.

My fuse/breaker panel is below the oven. Directly to the right is my furnace with the refrigerator above that. Directly to the right of the furnace is the electric fireplace. And directly behind the fireplace is the "outside kitchen." That's a built-in BBQ grill and tiny refrigerator.

I was able to run 12ga wire from the fuse panel across the furnace area (remove the lovers and look inside), then up the hollow wall area between the furnace and the fireplace. That gap of space goes into the outside kitchen cavity. Keystone ran wires through this same area. I drilled a 1/2in hole through 1/8in luan to bring the wire into the back of the fridge area.

I not only wanted the fridge on a separate circuit, I also wanted to install my inside and outside refrigerator fans and needed a 12v source. Because of this, I installed a BlueSea fuse block.

I haven't been able to see if this eliminated the beeping noise because I haven't had the trailer where I can test it. Let me see if I can find some pictures... Nope, not any good ones. Just these.

In the fuse panel, the bottom blue fuse is the one I added. Notice the lone black wire on the negative bus just to the left. That's my wire too. The factory screwed a negative bus bar to the floor behind the fuse panel and beside the charger converter. They made all their connections there.

mikec557
05-25-2021, 07:41 AM
here's one more picture...

OEM wiring had fed the small white 4-point block. Now my BlueSea fuse block feeds the near side of the white block with 12 ga wire to the fuse block and 12 ga wire to the white block.

Rockivy
06-09-2021, 02:17 PM
Good morning. Last night I saw you have a thread going on the same problem and thought I'd comment on it today. Just didn't get to it yet. :-)

I haven't been able to test my fix yet, but here's what I discovered and did to try to eliminate it.

I have a 2020 (built 10/2019) 26RBSWE. On my TT the furnace and refrigerator and built in stereo and a dual port USB port are all on the same 15 amp fuse in the fuse panel. I also have the In-Command system. Because of that there is a black box inside the air conditioner, I think it's called a gateway. It uses its brain every time the a/c or furnace is called upon for duty. I don't know if it's powered by 12vdc but I think it is, so add that too to being on the same 15 amp fuse.

I can't be sure, but I think the beeping is coming from the refrigerator. I think it's the audible alarm to tell you it has lost power and is off. I think it trips because when the furnace turns on and pulls down the 12v to both spin the squirrel cage blower and light up the igniter, momentarily the fridge thinks it's not getting enough 12v.

To that end, I removed the fridge from that 15 amp circuit and created a new one exclusively for the fridge. But so far I haven't been able to test it and prove or disprove my theory. As soon as I can I'll post the results here.

I'm not sure about the SAB's layout, so I don't know if my wire routing will work for you. But here's what I did.

My fuse/breaker panel is below the oven. Directly to the right is my furnace with the refrigerator above that. Directly to the right of the furnace is the electric fireplace. And directly behind the fireplace is the "outside kitchen." That's a built-in BBQ grill and tiny refrigerator.

I was able to run 12ga wire from the fuse panel across the furnace area (remove the lovers and look inside), then up the hollow wall area between the furnace and the fireplace. That gap of space goes into the outside kitchen cavity. Keystone ran wires through this same area. I drilled a 1/2in hole through 1/8in luan to bring the wire into the back of the fridge area.

I not only wanted the fridge on a separate circuit, I also wanted to install my inside and outside refrigerator fans and needed a 12v source. Because of this, I installed a BlueSea fuse block.

I haven't been able to see if this eliminated the beeping noise because I haven't had the trailer where I can test it. Let me see if I can find some pictures... Nope, not any good ones. Just these.

In the fuse panel, the bottom blue fuse is the one I added. Notice the lone black wire on the negative bus just to the left. That's my wire too. The factory screwed a negative bus bar to the floor behind the fuse panel and beside the charger converter. They made all their connections there.

Hi there,

So I tried your fix, minus the fans and such. I had an extra position on the converter 12VDC distribution at Fuse 8 and so I ran from there to the left through the Luan board to the furnace compartment below the fridge. I then fished my cable up where the other cable was originally going to the fridge and connected to the existing terminal blocks
A few thing i noted as i did this
1) Keystones quality of installation isn't the best, I would suggest everybody open up behind their converter and on the convertor itself and tighten up ALL of the terminations, mine were hand tight and would easily have caused an issue, once i tightened them i read a full 0.4VDC higher in the original Fridge terminals

2) Keystone cheats with wiring whenever they can, the way mine was wired the fridge was at the END of a very long 12VDC accessory circuit that drop the voltage from 13.7 Volta on Shore power to 10.9 Volts at the Fridge terminals when the furnace was running and 12.4 when it wasn't. This is a combination of loose terminals, poor quality crimp connectors, poor installation techniques and too small a gauge of wire ( each foot of wire is like a resistor and drops your voltage, you either get bigger wire to lower the drop, or you have shorter runs, Keystone failed on both counts here.

3) when starting to trouble shoot because this unit has the On-Command system what is at the distribution panel and what it actually is are two different things, panel Stated furnace on fuse 6, not true furnace ran off of 5 that also included the fridge, USB chargers (3),Radio, TV booster, CO alarm, vents, and fans, this is plain stupid design or lazy installation

The furnace should be on a seperate circuit all by itself it draws 11amps plus on start

Also the colour coding somewhat matches, however if your going to toot your horn about top end wiring colour code follow it, and pay attention to loads and gauge sizes.

So having said all that i ran roughly 6 feet of good quality #12 direct to the fridge on Shore power i had 13.7 at the fridge regardless if the furnace was running or not.

This solution not only works, but shows the poor execution to save a few minutes at the factory.

I am in the process or tracing my wiring out as for some fun reason my awning works however there is no power feed from any yellow wire except out of the BCM module to control the awning, there is however a purple 10 gauge wire coming from distribution on a 15amp resettable fuse that goes to the slide power terminal on the BCM (which says it should be a 30A resettable) (Note also that this is coming from what is labelled as the Furnace on my distribution panel ). I guess for $40000 you shouldn't expect accuracy or quality ....hope all this helps others in there troubleshooting thanks to everybody above for providing key clues to finding this issue, much appreciated, now off for the weekend

Cheers !!����

mikec557
06-09-2021, 02:25 PM
Hi there,

So I tried your fix, minis the fans and such I had an extra position on the convertor 12VDC distribution at Fuse 8 and so I ran from there to the left through the Luan board to the furnace compartment below the fridge. I then fished my cable up where the other cable was originally going to the fridge and connected to the existing terminal blocks
A few thing i noted as i did this
1) Keystones quality of installation isn't the best, I would suggest everybody open up behind there converter and on the convertor itself and tighten up ALL of the terminations, mine were hand tight and would easily have caused an issue, once i tightened them i read a full 0.4VDC higher in the original Fridge terminals

2) Keystone cheats with wiring whenever they can, the way mine was wired the fridge was at the END of a very long 12VDC accessory circuit that drop the voltage from 13.7 Volta on Shore power to 10.9 Volts at the Fridge terminals when the furnace was running and 12.4 when it wasn't. This is a combination of loose terminals, poor quality crimp connectors, poor installation techniques and too small a gauge of wire ( each foot of wire is like a resistor and drops your voltage, you either get bigger wire to lower the drop, or you have shorter runs, Keystone failed on both counts here.

3) when starting to trouble shoot because this unit has the On-Command system what is at the distribution panel and what it actually is are two different things, panel Stated furnace on fuse 6, not true furnace ran off of 5 that also included the fridge, USB chargers (3),Radio, TV booster, CO alarm, vents, and fans, this is plain stupid design or lazy installation

The furnace should be on a seperate circuit all by itself it draws 11amps plus on start

Also the colour coding somewhat matches, however if your going to toot your horn about top end wiring colour code follow it, and pay attention to loads and gauge sizes.

So having said all that i ran roughly 6 feet of good quality #12 direct to the fridge on Shore power i had 13.7 at the fridge regardless if the furnace was running or not.

This solution not only works, but shows the poor execution to save a few minutes at the factory.

I am in the process or tracing my wiring out as for some fun reason my awning works however there is no power feed from any yellow wire except out of the BCM module to control the awning, there is however a purple 10 gauge wire coming from distribution on a 15amp resettable fuse that goes to the slide power terminal on the BCM (which says it should be a 30A resettable) (Note also that this is coming from what is labelled as the Furnace on my distribution panel ). I guess for $40000 you shouldn't expect accuracy or quality ....hope all this helps others in there troubleshooting thanks to everybody above for providing key clues to finding this issue, much appreciated, now off for the weekend

Cheers !!🍺🍺


Thanks for reporting that the separate circuit concept fixes the problem.
I'm in Arizona and just brought the TT home to load up. But with 100+ degree days there's no way I'm going to test anything by running the furnace. LOL.
Maybe when we get to Colorado there's be a cold spell so I can test my fix.

Rockivy
06-14-2021, 08:41 AM
Thanks for reporting that the separate circuit concept fixes the problem.
I'm in Arizona and just brought the TT home to load up. But with 100+ degree days there's no way I'm going to test anything by running the furnace. LOL.
Maybe when we get to Colorado there's be a cold spell so I can test my fix.

Hi there,

So I tried your fix, minus the fans and such. I had an extra position on the converter 12VDC distribution at Fuse 8 and so I ran from there to the left through the Luan board to the furnace compartment below the fridge. I then fished my cable up where the other cable was originally going to the fridge and connected to the existing terminal blocks
A few thing i noted as i did this
1) Keystones quality of installation isn't the best, I would suggest everybody open up behind their converter and on the convertor itself and tighten up ALL of the terminations, mine were hand tight and would easily have caused an issue, once i tightened them i read a full 0.4VDC higher in the original Fridge terminals

2) Keystone cheats with wiring whenever they can, the way mine was wired the fridge was at the END of a very long 12VDC accessory circuit that drop the voltage from 13.7 Volta on Shore power to 10.9 Volts at the Fridge terminals when the furnace was running and 12.4 when it wasn't. This is a combination of loose terminals, poor quality crimp connectors, poor installation techniques and too small a gauge of wire ( each foot of wire is like a resistor and drops your voltage, you either get bigger wire to lower the drop, or you have shorter runs, Keystone failed on both counts here.

3) when starting to trouble shoot because this unit has the On-Command system what is at the distribution panel and what it actually is are two different things, panel Stated furnace on fuse 6, not true furnace ran off of 5 that also included the fridge, USB chargers (3),Radio, TV booster, CO alarm, vents, and fans, this is plain stupid design or lazy installation

The furnace should be on a seperate circuit all by itself it draws 11amps plus on start

Also the colour coding somewhat matches, however if your going to toot your horn about top end wiring colour code follow it, and pay attention to loads and gauge sizes.

So having said all that i ran roughly 6 feet of good quality #12 direct to the fridge on Shore power i had 13.7 at the fridge regardless if the furnace was running or not.

This solution not only works, but shows the poor execution to save a few minutes at the factory.

I am in the process or tracing my wiring out as for some fun reason my awning works however there is no power feed from any yellow wire except out of the BCM module to control the awning, there is however a purple 10 gauge wire coming from distribution on a 15amp resettable fuse that goes to the slide power terminal on the BCM (which says it should be a 30A resettable) (Note also that this is coming from what is labelled as the Furnace on my distribution panel ). I guess for $40000 you shouldn't expect accuracy or quality ....hope all this helps others in there troubleshooting thanks to everybody above for providing key clues to finding this issue, much appreciated, now off for the weekend

Cheers !!����

SO made it through the weekend in the mountains, temperature dropped to 4 Deg C or about 40 had the furnace on and there were zero issues with the Firdge beeping or going into alarm due to voltage drop.

I would say problem solved, Keystone, perhaps you can take some advice here and properly install your power to the Fridge, there is no reason to run dozens of feet of wire in this and many other models when it is only a few feet to the Fridge from the 12VDC power distribution, look at it this way Keystone, this fix would actually be less expensive, less crimps to do, short length of wire and best of all happier customers, oh and clean up how you wire trailers absolute garbage

JRTJH
06-14-2021, 08:59 AM
SO made it through the weekend in the mountains, temperature dropped to 4 Deg C or about 40 had the furnace on and there were zero issues with the Firdge beeping or gong into alarm due to voltage drop.

I would say problem solved, Keystone, perhaps you can take some advice here and properly install your power to the Fridge, there is no reason to run dozens of feet of wire in this and many other models when it is only a few feet to the Fridge from the 12VDC power distribution, look at it this was Keystone, this fix would actually be less expensive, less crimps to do, short length of wire and best of all happier customers, oh and clean up how you wire trailers absolute garbage

Your suggestion will reach "Keystone eyes/ears" only if you write them an email or call them. Keystone RV manufacturing company does not monitor this website. There's a "red disclaimer" at the bottom of every forum webpage that states that information.....

Rockivy
06-14-2021, 09:06 AM
Your suggestion will reach "Keystone eyes/ears" only if you write them an email or call them. Keystone RV manufacturing company does not monitor this website. There's a "red disclaimer" at the bottom of every forum webpage that states that information.....

You are correct writing or emailing will get it to the customer service department faster, but the disclaimer says nothing about Keystone not having eys and ears on the site, just that this is not an official site for Keystone.

If I was an RV company I would have eyes and ears all over sites like this, valuable little bits of information on here to help improve ones product.

Thanks for the heads up on the disclaimer though.

JRTJH
06-14-2021, 09:40 AM
You are correct writing or emailing will get it to the customer service department faster, but the disclaimer says nothing about Keystone not having eys and ears on the site, just that this is not an official site for Keystone.

If I was an RV company I would have eyes and ears all over sites like this, valuable little bits of information on here to help improve ones product.

Thanks for the heads up on the disclaimer though.

Not to argue with you about your "observations and interpretations" but since being a moderator here for over 10 years and an administrator for around 3, I can attest to the simple fact that Keystone's IP addresses have NEVER been logged into this forum. So, if "they" are snooping, they're doing it under the guise of someone other than a Keystone computer...... So, don't get your hopes up about them "spying to see what you post".... Ain't happenin'

travelin texans
06-14-2021, 10:05 AM
Not to argue with you about your "observations and interpretations" but since being a moderator here for over 10 years and an administrator for around 3, I can attest to the simple fact that Keystone's IP addresses have NEVER been logged into this forum. So, if "they" are snooping, they're doing it under the guise of someone other than a Keystone computer...... So, don't get your hopes up about them "spying to see what you post".... Ain't happenin'

I have a feeling Keystone, or any rv manufacturers, doesn't really give a hoot or holler about any of our experiences or suggestions as long as they're selling'em faster than they build'em.

mikec557
06-16-2021, 06:28 AM
Eureka! Annoying Fridge beep is gone!

That annoying beep from the fridge every time the furnace turned on is gone. I'm not saying the fridge needs its own private 15 amp dc circuit. But it sure can't be left on the shared circuit Keystone put it on. I installed a dedicated circuit, but by the time I was done I couldn't test the hypothesis. Today I did. I ran the furnace, and after that test I ran the air conditioner. Neither caused the fridge to beep.

Just a side note. I added my two fans to the outside of the fridge, and the three fan assembly to the inside of the fridge, all on the same dedicated fridge circuit. These are like computer fans. They draw very little power. They do not cause the fridge to beep.

Rockivy
06-16-2021, 07:30 AM
I have a feeling Keystone, or any rv manufacturers, doesn't really give a hoot or holler about any of our experiences or suggestions as long as they're selling'em faster than they build'em.

That, unfortunately pretty much sums it up in a nutshell right there.

Not sure about where others live, but here in Alberta they can't keep RV's on the lot most dealers are pretty thin on stock, lots are quite empty of new and used stock, and the prices have skyrocketed.

Cheers

Rockivy
06-16-2021, 07:31 AM
Eureka! Annoying Fridge beep is gone!

That annoying beep from the fridge every time the furnace turned on is gone. I'm not saying the fridge needs its own private 15 amp dc circuit. But it sure can't be left on the shared circuit Keystone put it on. I installed a dedicated circuit, but by the time I was done I couldn't test the hypothesis. Today I did. I ran the furnace, and after that test I ran the air conditioner. Neither caused the fridge to beep.

Just a side note. I added my two fans to the outside of the fridge, and the three fan assembly to the inside of the fridge, all on the same dedicated fridge circuit. These are like computer fans. They draw very little power. They do not cause the fridge to beep.

That is fabulous!! Thanks for the idea, now there is at least two of us that can sleep through the night without Fridge beeps !!

Cheers

mikec557
06-16-2021, 07:43 AM
That is fabulous!! Thanks for the idea, now there is at least two of us that can sleep through the night without Fridge beeps !!

Cheers

Amen, brother!