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Skins44
07-21-2020, 10:43 AM
had my first blowout the other night returning home. Trailer King ST205/75R14. Unfortunately, It did some minor damage that my extended warranty will not cover. Cosmetic damage only. Pics attached. Few questions:

- Is that repair something i could do on my own?
- I'll be replacing all 5 tires, any recommendations? 27' dual axle 5600 dry weight +500 with "stuff"

sourdough
07-21-2020, 12:10 PM
Ouch! Unfortunately that sure looks familiar.

First, have you contacted your insurance company? They should cover that then you won't need to worry about "band aiding" it. Mine paid for the entire 7k repair. Did the tire damage the coroplast under the trailer? Mine did and it had to be repaired as well.

Edit: Tires. I would NOT going back with TK tires. My failure was TK as well. What year trailer is that? I would go back with Carlisle Radial HD or maybe Maxxis. I saw Goodyear Endurance comes in that size and many like those. Look at the load range on the old tires and go up one if your wheel will accept the weight and pressure. I suspect that tire/trailer combo came before the new RVIA standards. It could also have been a number of other contributing factors including age (year of trailer :) ).

Skins44
07-21-2020, 12:18 PM
thanks Danny. Yes, it damaged the coroplast and ate into the foam floor insulation a bit. good point on the insurance. I guess i am just scared they will jack the rate up!

Skins44
07-21-2020, 12:30 PM
trailer is a 2017, tires 2016. I check for proper inflation before every trip. It was extremely hot here (110 with heat index), so that could have played a factor along with tire age.

I will tell you one thing, i will be purchasing a tire monitoring systems with my new set!

Canonman
07-21-2020, 12:41 PM
"I will tell you one thing, i will be purchasing a tire monitoring systems with my new set!"
Skins,
That was going to be my suggestion after reading your post. You'll notice that the tire temps can be 20 or more degrees higher then the outside temperature, so hight temps and possibly a slow leak (low pressure) was the culprit. TPMS is definitely the answer.
An ounce of prevention...

sourdough
07-21-2020, 12:48 PM
trailer is a 2017, tires 2016. I check for proper inflation before every trip. It was extremely hot here (110 with heat index), so that could have played a factor along with tire age.

I will tell you one thing, i will be purchasing a tire monitoring systems with my new set!


Sorry I failed to mention the TPMS. Thought about it but forgot to mention it.

If not aged out, the tires were just about there so that may have been a contributor....and being a TK I think they reach end of life aging in about 6 months max.:) That tire/trailer combo were before the revised RVIA guidelines so be sure and go up a load range if the wheels support it. I figure that will save you some grief down the road.

As far as insurance I don't recall my rates going up after that repair or if they did it was negligible. I would let them pay for it and get it all repaired correctly.

wiredgeorge
07-21-2020, 01:41 PM
thanks Danny. Yes, it damaged the coroplast and ate into the foam floor insulation a bit. good point on the insurance. I guess i am just scared they will jack the rate up!


I am guessing you have no idea what camper insurance deductible is. Mine is now $425 so if you do file a claim, keep in mind that you will still be out of pocket for the deductible and they will likely count the insurance pay out against you and your rate may go up.

Skins44
07-21-2020, 02:03 PM
i do. Unfortunately, mine is $500.

Northofu1
07-21-2020, 02:14 PM
Hi Steve.
BTDT
It all depends how handy you are. I have seen worse.
I would cut out the bad luan that's left as straight as possible in order to cut a piece of 1/4" plywood to fill it's place. I would use spray adhesive as directed by can, caulk any divots or cavities. Let that set. Trim a piece of darco, spray the wood with the adhesive again and lay darco on that. let that set. wipe area clean with a degreaser, rinse, and let dry. Tape your edges with the scrim tape and heat with a hair dryer or heat gun at a lower setting and use a roller to press the seams.

As far as beefing up that area, everyone has a theory on that. I will be adding checker plate in the two rear wheel areas. Although the tires are brand new, if something should happen again, maybe the checker plate will ensure it's worth making an insurance claim.
You can buy the darco and scrim tape from amazon.
Good luck,
Dan

Edit:
I didn't see how much foam was gouged out, mine hit the wood of the floor in the coach but did not penetrate it. Also trim the foam as squarely as possible, use the spray adhesive to attach foam.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-17-6-oz-Hi-Strength-90-Spray-Adhesive-90-24/100151277

Northofu1
07-21-2020, 02:17 PM
Trailer kings age like dogs.

Skins44
07-21-2020, 05:01 PM
Thanks for the info Dan. There were a few tiny pieces of foam inside my trailer near my bump out. I need to figure out the extent of that. I would really like to tackle it myself, but just have to see.

What is darco?

sourdough
07-21-2020, 05:16 PM
Darco is the mesh fabric in the tops of the wheel wells that's all torn up.

Dan has given good advice on trying to make those repairs. I would go further to say that the inside of the wheel wells needs some sort of reinforcement. There are threads and posts that relate to that so you may want to do a search. The Darco is, IMO, an inappropriate material to cover the inside of a wheel well or anything else exposed to the elements.

You can make the repairs to the wheel well. What about the coroplast you said was damaged? Mine was torn, gas line in the slide cut along with power. They wanted to "cut/tape" the damaged coroplast. I insisted I wanted it back like new, and unbelievably, Geico paid to have the entire bottom (coroplast) replaced. I figured someone doing that work instead of me, having all new piece parts etc. was worth far more than the $500 deductible. I didn't worry about a price increase if it came....and we never noticed that it did.

Gobirds38
07-21-2020, 05:26 PM
I have the same size tire 205/75R14 and can not find a E rated tire, only D rated for this size.
Endurance and Carlisle do not have a E rated tire. Im am running TK's for now, they are only 1 year old. I will replace them soon with a D rated I guess.

Skins44
07-21-2020, 05:57 PM
great info Danny thanks. I have Geico as well and submitted a claim. We'll see what the adjuster has to say.

I do need to clarify though. The coroplast is fine. The darco was shredded. there is about a foot and half border on both sides of the camper above the wheels that is about 5 inches higher than the cloroplast underbelly. I may cut into it this weekend. If it hasn't damaged the camper floor, i should be able to replace that 12" x 36" section with foam, thin particle board (which i also see) then new darco. I also plan to put in diamond plate on both sides to protect from future blowouts. I'll keep you posted.

Skins44
07-21-2020, 06:03 PM
good info Gobirds. I will be considering both of those tires.

Northofu1
07-22-2020, 02:26 AM
I have the same size tire 205/75R14 and can not find a E rated tire, only D rated for this size.
Endurance and Carlisle do not have a E rated tire. Im am running TK's for now, they are only 1 year old. I will replace them soon with a D rated I guess.

Thanks Danny,

Dave,
I replaced my LRC trailer kings (max PSI 50) on my travel trailer with the Carlisle radial trail hd LRD (max PSI 65), night and day. No issues. No blowouts to either tire.

On my 5th wheel I went from a LRD trailer king (max PSI 65) to the carlisle radial trail hd LRE (max PSI 80), again, night and day. I did have a blowout on the highway going from dealership to tire store. I am now not worried about another blowout but that doesn't mean it couldn't happen.

Steve,
When you move up one load range a blowout will produce more force and carnage. That piece of checker plate might do diddly against that 80 psi tire blowout. If I had the time, place, and means I would have fabricated a heavier gauge steel well to slide into the existing well after removing the wood and foam butting it up to the coach floor. Welded to the frame and bolted to the aluminum frame of the coach. I know I would have lost a whole section of R7 insulation potential, I don't winter camp.
Dan

Skins44
07-22-2020, 05:42 AM
i hear ya Dan. The thicker gauge metal guard would be awesome, but i can't weld. I'll have to opt for the tire pressure monitoring system/diamond plate and hope that combo will 1. prevent a blowout and 2. minimize damage should one occur.

why do we buy these things again? lol. Oh yeah, for the kids, for the kids...

Gobirds38
07-22-2020, 06:27 AM
Goodyear Endurance has a second option.

205/75R14
Load Range D
2039 LBS per tire

or

215/75R14
Load Range D
2205 LBS per tire

The 215 is about an half inch taller than the 205, so if you have the clearance this may be an option to consider.

Here is a link.
https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator/205-75R14/215-75R14/225-70R14

flybouy
07-22-2020, 06:27 AM
In the mid 1970's I was driving my DW (before we were married), her father and brother back from a visit in Maine. He had an early 1070's Ford Econoline van. He had bought brand new Goodyear steel belted radials put on for the trip. This was when the radials were a new to the market tires.

Around Boston I was driving around 70 m.p.h. when the passenger side rear tire let loose. After crossing about six lanes twice I got it wrestled down to a stop. That rear fender was folded up about 6" above the wheel well and the corner of the rear bumper was crumpled up like a beer can after an arm wrestler is finished with it.

I don't think much less than armor plate will stop a flapping tread at highway speed.

Skins44
07-22-2020, 06:42 AM
Thanks gobirds. So, i can go from 205 to 215 as long as i have room (which i do)? Is there anything else i need to consider before upgrading to 215?

Gobirds38
07-22-2020, 06:55 AM
Not that I know of. Maybe someone else does.

I have been searching for a load range E for a while, but can't find one.

The 205 has a max of 8,156 LBS, where as the 215 has a max of 8,820 LBS.
For the money, I am going with the 215.

Northofu1
07-22-2020, 07:11 AM
You would most likely have to go with a new rim as the rims you have might nt withstand that 80 psi max pressure. Not worth it. Going up 1 load level should suffice.

Northofu1
07-22-2020, 07:14 AM
In the mid 1970's I was driving my DW (before we were married), her father and brother back from a visit in Maine. He had an early 1070's Ford Econoline van. He had bought brand new Goodyear steel belted radials put on for the trip. This was when the radials were a new to the market tires.

Around Boston I was driving around 70 m.p.h. when the passenger side rear tire let loose. After crossing about six lanes twice I got it wrestled down to a stop. That rear fender was folded up about 6" above the wheel well and the corner of the rear bumper was crumpled up like a beer can after an arm wrestler is finished with it.

I don't think much less than armor plate will stop a flapping tread at highway speed.

That's what I would hope for, If i'm going to have to make an insurance claim I want it to be worth my while. :rolleyes:

flybouy
07-22-2020, 07:15 AM
Not that I know of. Maybe someone else does.

I have been searching for a load range E for a while, but can't find one.

The 205 has a max of 8,156 LBS, where as the 215 has a max of 8,820 LBS.
For the money, I am going with the 215.

They are not available in a 14" rim. Going to a D rating should serve you well.

Gobirds38
07-22-2020, 07:22 AM
Load range E is not available in a 14 inch rim.

That's why I may go for the 215 instead of the original 205.

Both are 65 PSI and load range D. The only difference is a half inch taller and max weight is better.

sonofcy
07-30-2020, 07:32 AM
had my first blowout the other night returning home. Trailer King ST205/75R14. Unfortunately, It did some minor damage that my extended warranty will not cover. Cosmetic damage only. Pics attached. Few questions:

- Is that repair something i could do on my own?
- I'll be replacing all 5 tires, any recommendations? 27' dual axle 5600 dry weight +500 with "stuff"

Either Sailun or Goodyear G614. But first get a TPMS. This pic reminds me to add some armor where the wheels are. Some carbon fiber and west system epoxy should do it.

Bob Landry
07-30-2020, 07:39 AM
Why anyone continues to soak money into these Chinese Maypops and the damage they cause is beyond me. Maxxis is not much if any better. The set I had checked at less than 1000 miles and would not pass inspection.There is a better way.

I had to go up in size and replace rims as well, but I put LT tires on my outback.

CWtheMan
07-30-2020, 07:46 AM
i do. Unfortunately, mine is $500.

Looking at your signature I'm very surprised that your OE tires were LRC. They do not meet the RVIA 10% reserve load capacity recommendation. However, the LRD - any brand - will exceed the RVIA recommendation.

NOTE: For your LRC tires to have qualified for the RVIA recommendation your vehicle certified GAWR axles would have to be rated at 3200#.

tbird68
07-30-2020, 07:56 AM
I had the same issue. We blew 2 tire on the same side and did some damage. I removed what was left of the insulation and trimmed everything up. I then sprayed the bottom of the floor and the cracks with Flex Seal black spray. Looks good and appears to be working just fine. Bad design. I've also used many manufacture's of tires and they all seem to be crap. I just started throwing them away after 2 years.

Skins44
07-30-2020, 08:00 AM
I'm going ST205/75R14 LRD's next week. Lesson learned.

on a separate note, I need to take my wheels off to bring them in for new tires. Was going to do 2 at a time. With leaf springs, assuming i can jack up next to axle U bolts and use jack stands one side at a time?

MN Roger
07-30-2020, 08:27 AM
Had a recent blowout as well. Tandem axels as well. When they go, they do some damage. You can fix it, I did. I replaced the five trailer tires with Goodyear truck tires. Trailer tires are 65mph rated as apprised to truck tires at higher mph. Can take road wear better as well.

BillMc
07-30-2020, 08:45 AM
That’s exactly why you should have insurance to cover your unit.

I have had Full Coverage insurance on my Fifthwheel since I first purchased it in 2007. I have had 2 new roofs put on because of tree damage and both wheel wells replaced because of blowouts. Not once have I ever paid an extra dime for any repairs. I’ve had insurance through Geico, and now USAA for the past several years. Never go anywhere without insurance on the RV.

azchoco
07-30-2020, 09:20 AM
I had the same thing happen to us in Arizona. Fortunately I had comprehensive insurance on my trailer that covered it all! I lost two tires that trip so replaced all four. Your tow vehicle's comp doesn't cover the trailer.

azchoco
07-30-2020, 09:24 AM
I forgot to mention that after that the blow outs I installed a TPMS for the price of my deductible. Now I can catch a bad tire before it blows.

Flynglfr
07-30-2020, 10:04 AM
I had the same thing happen when we had less than 6,000 miles on our trailer/tires. I contacted the tire manufacture and they did give me a rebate on the tires, you may want to do that too.

RangerFred
07-30-2020, 10:15 AM
I bought a 28' Bullet Premiere from a friend. Tires looked great and the rest of the trailer was in like-new condition. 1st trip out--I didn't get 30 miles from the house when the rear tire on the passenger side of the trailer blew. Damage looked surprisingly like yours. I got another 60 miles when the front tire on the same side blew. I had to leave the trailer on the side of the road while I took both blown tires into town for replacement. When I got home from our trip, I replaced all 5 with Goodyear Endurance tires. I also went up from Load Range D to C.

I removed the wheel shroud that was badly damaged, and repaired all the wiring that was ripped out. The undercarriage of my trailer is 100% chloroplast sealed. I cut a piece of black painted chloroplast to fit, made mounds of "Great-stuff" on the chloroplast, put construction caulk/adhesive around the perimeter and shoved it into place. I used the original sheet-metal screws and holes in the frame to anchor it. Almost a year later and more trips, it still looks like there was no damage. I did have to buy a new skirt and take it to a body shop to get it matched and painted. That was lots of $$.

I now cover all tires while not travelling, check the pressure once a month or so, and have pressure treated lumber under every tire. The trailer is perfectly level too. I noticed that the previous owner parked the trailer directly on grade, and I suspect that the tires that blew received direct afternoon sun--maybe dry-rotted. I'm looking at a TPMS too.

Lesson learned--the expensive way.

MN Roger
07-30-2020, 10:16 AM
Ah, 14”. Mine are 16” so I went with an E truck tire rated @ 80 psi.

tmihalic
07-30-2020, 10:40 AM
I had Trailer Kings on my Keystone Cougar when I bought it new. After the 2nd year, the tread was still good, but I had a bulge in the tread on one tire (broken belt) and changed them to Goodyear Endurance Tires. The Goodyears are great and have a higher speed limit if you are into that kind of thing. Also, like others have said, get a TPMS, and get your trailer weighed at each wheel, then use the pressure chart to know what pressure to inflate the tires to. Chances are you are inflating to 80 PSI which just wears out the middle of the tire.

precab
07-30-2020, 10:55 AM
had my first blowout the other night returning home. Trailer King ST205/75R14. Unfortunately, It did some minor damage that my extended warranty will not cover. Cosmetic damage only. Pics attached. Few questions:

- Is that repair something i could do on my own?
- I'll be replacing all 5 tires, any recommendations? 27' dual axle 5600 dry weight +500 with "stuff"

Would be best to replace any and all Trailer King China bomb tires now. Read on them here and you'll see why. I had 2 year old ones and replaced them not wanting the risk to my family, TT etc.

precab
07-30-2020, 10:58 AM
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWRU8D8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Carlisle 6H04561 Radial Trail HD Trailer Tire - 205/75R14 105M

Still have to get them locally installed, but these were $130 at Discount Tire. Highly rated and mfg date was less than 6 months old off this supplier on Amazon. I could not be happier

Apalinto
07-30-2020, 11:09 AM
Back when I had my Keystone Premier, I had upgraded to Carlisle tires and they served me well. I have a question along Skins44's comments, you mention doing a TPMS upgrade this next time around, so do these monitoring systems have a sensor inside the tire on the rim or are they valve stem based? My Cougar 5'er turns two this summer so I will be looking at upgrading tires in the near future and also want to look into a TPMS. Sounds like a very good upgrade.

Bill-2020
07-30-2020, 11:12 AM
Discount will match Walmart’s $78 advertisement online. A hair more than Amazon’s $77 but your extra buck goes to local workers who then contribute to your local economy. JMO

MN Roger
07-30-2020, 11:16 AM
I contemplated putting a pressure monitoring system in my new tires. They can be costly, and by the time a blowout happens, it’s too late anyway. I’ve never had a blowout due to low pressure tires.

Bill-2020
07-30-2020, 11:46 AM
TPMS alerts you to failing pressure before it does too much damage. Maybe no damage if you pull over soon enough? Some are not that expensive. I have the small 4 tire monitor from Tire Minder. Works perfectly and I can monitor pressures and temps on all four tires simultaneously. Monitor attaches to windshield and charges via solar or USB. No connection issues with the included booster that sits next to the battery.

Gobirds38
07-30-2020, 11:55 AM
I bought these from Amazon, works well except for the temp (only in Celsius )

Tymate Tire Pressure Monitoring System - Full-Color Screen Design, 6 Alarm Modes, CLA Charging Method, Simple Installation and Setup, with 4 Advanced External Tmps Sensor (0-0.6 Bar/ 0-87 PSI)
4.4 out of 5 stars 330
$69.99

Mamarino
07-30-2020, 12:48 PM
Learned about tires and trailers in June. Definitely get the D rated tires. Had 2 blowouts on my last trip. Replaced with 205 75 14 Carlisle's D rated including the spare. Like you i make sure tire pressure is taken when cold.

CWtheMan
07-30-2020, 12:49 PM
Ah, 14”. Mine are 16” so I went with an E truck tire rated @ 80 psi.

Didn't your trailer have OEM tires designated size ST235/80R16 LRE?

There are no suitable 16" LRE LT tires that can provide the load capacity the OEM tires provided.

wiredgeorge
07-30-2020, 12:55 PM
Discount will match Walmart’s $78 advertisement online. A hair more than Amazon’s $77 but your extra buck goes to local workers who then contribute to your local economy. JMO


If you shop at Discount online site, they typically have better prices than the same tire in the store. If you tell the store manager you found it online at the https://www.discounttiredirect.com/ website, they will usually match the online price.

Spletbr
07-30-2020, 12:56 PM
What TPMS are you going with? I’m looking as well....

wiredgeorge
07-30-2020, 12:58 PM
Didn't your trailer have OEM tires designated size ST235/80R16 LRE?

There are no suitable 16" LRE LT tires that can provide the load capacity the OEM tires provided.


About half the posts on the last 2 pages have touted using truck tires. If you really want to save some money buy a set of Uniroyal Tiger Paws at Walmart. Think they have them for about $29 each. I bet they work as well as the LT tires everyone seems to be enamored with. I often wonder why trailer specific tires were ever designed and sold (aka ST).

mjsibe
07-30-2020, 03:04 PM
unfortunately I had a blowout to.
But got lucky no serious damage.
Same size 205 75 14s
I replaced mine with Goodyear ENDURANCE 215 75 14 & up one load range.
I figured tire will never get to max load limit.
But check your rims as they run @ higher pressures.

khmiller
07-30-2020, 08:20 PM
Skins44, I feel your pain because I've been there myself. I got great advice from other members of the forum and made the repairs to my Springdale myself. Here is a link to my post with photos and descriptions. Good luck!
https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38239

Skins44
07-31-2020, 04:00 AM
Alex, from what i understand most are valve stem based. Some require swapping out the rubber valve stems to metal valve stems. I was actually doing some research on them now.

SummitPond
07-31-2020, 05:00 AM
<clip> Some are not that expensive. I have the small 4 tire monitor from Tire Minder. Works perfectly and I can monitor pressures and temps on all four tires simultaneously. Monitor attaches to windshield and charges via solar or USB. No connection issues with the included booster that sits next to the battery.

Two thumbs up on the above recommendation.

I occasionally get a lost signal error; I'll pull over and check everything when that occurs - just to be on the safe side. I usually replace the offending sensor's battery at that time and this clears things up. TireMinder will send you a new set of replacement batteries FREE if requested, a nice perk.

Be sure your rig is within the stated maximum range specified for this unit.

CWtheMan
07-31-2020, 05:24 AM
About half the posts on the last 2 pages have touted using truck tires. If you really want to save some money buy a set of Uniroyal Tiger Paws at Walmart. Think they have them for about $29 each. I bet they work as well as the LT tires everyone seems to be enamored with. I often wonder why trailer specific tires were ever designed and sold (aka ST).

Just about all tire information refers to tires by size. It's a problem for the laymen because the regulations refer to them by their proper nomenclature, designated size. You can do a web search and get a listing of designated sizes.

Because the regulations direct the vehicle manufacturer to describe the OEM tires by designated size, their fitment is certified that way. Because FMVSS are minimum standards it makes the OE tires - by designated size - a minimum standard. Therefore, It's a misapplication to substitute one designated size for another, without the vehicle manufacturers approval as being an option.

Original Equipment tires described on the vehicle certification label are the minimum standard used for all subsequent replacements. Depending on who writes it the industry standard goes like this. "Replacement tires MUST provide a load capacity equal to or greater than what the OE tires provided."

I always get backlash for this sort of post. It's how its supposed to be done. There are very few regulations/standards enforced upon the consumer. The way things are supposed to be done protects the field. There are numerous references to draw from that describe minimum standards which are called that because they are safety standards and when lowered by a consumer, all others in the field may be at risk.

markcee
07-31-2020, 06:46 AM
I contemplated putting a pressure monitoring system in my new tires. They can be costly, and by the time a blowout happens, it’s too late anyway. I’ve never had a blowout due to low pressure tires.

Agree that TPMS won't necessarily alert you to a blowout....but it could. My TPMS identified a low pressure issue on one of my tires a couple of weeks ago. I simply added air and moved on. However, the next day that tire blew out. Turns out an axle issue was causing the tire to bang up against the wheel well. In retrospect, I'm thinking the loss of pressure was a result of this banging. Had I inspected the area around the tire instead of just adding air, I would have likely noticed something wrong. In that sense the TPMS was an early warning system.

In addition, having TPMS is a no fuss way to check your tire pressures before you begin your trip, instead of going around with a gauge!

Coach
08-01-2020, 07:34 AM
I pull a Raptor RP3612, 3 axles 225 75 15 10 ply tires. Have had real good success with Carlisle tires. Just put 2 new ones on few days ago. I do try and replace 2 every year or so as really do not want a blowout.

Steve01
11-06-2020, 05:18 PM
This was a Power King, 10 ply 225/75 15 that had replaced a Trailer King 8 ply with a bubble (less than a year old).
2018 Keystone Sprinter 5er 34'

notanlines
11-07-2020, 03:35 AM
Trailer King - Power King - all blood brothers.

BrooksFam
11-07-2020, 05:56 AM
It is curious to me why trailer tires blow out much more often than car tires. I have been pulling boat trailer, utility trailers for over 40 years and never had a blow out. In fact, I have never had a flat or blow out on any vehicle while driving in 50 years.

This is my first TT though, and am now very nervous due to all the blow out threads and stories. I am very meticulous when it comes to maintaining tires and maybe this helps with no blow outs.

JRTJH
11-07-2020, 06:24 AM
It is curious to me why trailer tires blow out much more often than car tires. I have been pulling boat trailer, utility trailers for over 40 years and never had a blow out. In fact, I have never had a flat or blow out on any vehicle while driving in 50 years.

This is my first TT though, and am now very nervous due to all the blow out threads and stories. I am very meticulous when it comes to maintaining tires and maybe this helps with no blow outs.

IMHO, the biggest issue with tires on most travel trailers/fifth wheels is that they are "fitted by the manufacturer to the application" and are being operated at very close to the maximum weight limit for the tire.

When you add the "previously mandated speed limit" which was, until just the past couple of years, limited to 65MPH, then you're "ripe for problems"...

Install tires rated for 2380 pounds on an axle rated for 4600 pounds, on a trailer with a GVW of 10,000 pounds (with 1000 pounds on the tongue) and you're "operating on a razor edge under maximum tire capacity"....

Then, tow those 65MPH tires at 75MPH while they are 5-10 pounds "underinflated" (because the trailer rides smoother with less air in the tires) and all the factors work together to assure a tire problem....

In recent years, RVIA "mandated" manufacturers to install tires on trailers with at least a 10% excess capacity. That's only been the last 2 or 3 years. Tire manufacturers, in that same 2-3 year time frame, have improved manufacturing processes, came out with "improved speed ratings" and "improved tire construction with stronger sidewalls, new tread designs, stronger polyester cords, all steel construction and the claim of "stronger, more reliable tires"....

Again, IMHO, if the tires were "reliable in the past, why the need to "improve all the reliability factors ???? Seems to me (on my soapbox) that for way too many years, the cheapest tires, barely adequate for the job were being installed on nearly every trailer coming out of an RV manufacturer's assembly line.

Things are changing, but that doesn't make all the tires on all the trailers sitting on any dealership lot, suddenly "more than adequate"....

Do your own weights, check manufacturer's dates, inspect tires for any damage and realize that by the time you buy a trailer, it's already been towed from Goshen to the dealership with tires in a completely "unknown condition, no idea of road hazard/curb issues, tire pressure status or speed. I see trailers on I-75 that are obviously "being delivered from Indiana to Michigan". Many of those trailers "blow past me at 80+ MPH behind trucks with magnetic signs on the doors" (obviously commercial delivery trucks)...

So, even when you hitch up for the first time, you may well be towing home a brand new trailer with tires that have been damaged, abused or mis-used... In other words, "you may be towing on ticking time bombs" and not even know it......

Steve01
11-07-2020, 06:25 AM
It is curious to me why trailer tires blow out much more often than car tires. I have been pulling boat trailer, utility trailers for over 40 years and never had a blow out. In fact, I have never had a flat or blow out on any vehicle while driving in 50 years.

This is my first TT though, and am now very nervous due to all the blow out threads and stories. I am very meticulous when it comes to maintaining tires and maybe this helps with no blow outs.
I am very aware of my tires, also. I check tire pressure and condition during and before each trip. During these checks while on trips with the tires being less than a year old is when two of these tires had bubbles. The manufacturer replaced one with a supposedly upgraded tire. That is the one that blew. All have been replaced with Goodyear Endurances now and I am installing a TPMS. I am glad that you have never had a flat, let alone a blow out and hope you never do. Safe travels...

BrooksFam
11-07-2020, 06:41 AM
I am very aware of my tires, also. I check tire pressure and condition during and before each trip. During these checks while on trips with the tires being less than a year old is when two of these tires had bubbles. The manufacturer replaced one with a supposedly upgraded tire. That is the one that blew. All have been replaced with Goodyear Endurances now and I am installing a TPMS. I am glad that you have never had a flat, let alone a blow out and hope you never do. Safe travels...

I am now highly considering changing the tires soon. I bought this TT new in August and its only been towed from the dealer to its current location, about 65 miles. If I had a blow out on the road, I would pay a lot at the time to have not had a blow out. So, pay now, not later is my philosophy. Does that make sense??

flybouy
11-07-2020, 07:59 AM
I agree with John's statement about the "unknown condition" at delivery. When boat trailers and utility trailers are delivered they typically arrive strapped onto on a flatbed trailer. The dealer takes delivery, checks them over, then places them out for sale. But I think that's part of the story.

My following comments are just my theories as no one has any data to look at. You get a blowout on your camper your not at home. The event disrupts your trip. You replace the tire and move on. No one investigates the why. Most folks aren't going to spend the money to ship it back to the manufacturer. I doubt very many even realize there's a warranty.

Back to why the greater frequency I think a lot has to do with the miles driven and the speed and how they are driven. Again, just my observations.

Campers have a very high center of gravity yet I see them being driven at very high speeds and driven hard around curves/turns. I live about a mile and a half from a marina and state park with a boat ramp next door, I don't see boats on trailers driven this way.

Campers are often driven hundreds of miles at high speeds then at their destination are maneuvered around tight turns with tremendous stresses applied to the sidewalls as they are being "parked". I've seen new campers (and assuming new to towing owners) setting at campgrounds and in storage lots with the tires askew like a road grader. Some new to towing don't realize that after a very tight maneuver you need to pull up then back straight to allow the tires tread and sidewall to "settle" straight with the rim.

Boats and utility trailers are typically driven shorter distances, less miles per year. They aren't as subjected to the very acute angles of a camper. Boat ramps are straight. The parking lots at boat ramps are typically large with straight parking spaces. Unlike boat and utility trailers campers are subjected to several hundred pounds of people moving, walking, stomping about.

These factors to me separate the boat utility trailer from the camping trailer to the point of not being comparable. And while I've seen them on the side of the road with bearing failure I can't think of ever seeing, or hearing about a boat or utility trailer having a bent axle, bent spindal, or broken spring.

Just my thoughts, sorry for the long post.

mjsibe
11-07-2020, 08:16 AM
The basic problem is the quality of the tires.
Cheap barely meeting the specs.
Like you have towed various things boats cargo ect.
Never had an issue.
But my TT BLEW A CHINA BOMB. Approximately 8k miles on it. 4 years old.
Lucky it was minimal damage, a aluminum fender brace.
Just get quality tires Goodyear ENDURANCE or Carlisle top of the line. USA made.
Top reviews from all over.
Happy camping

Northofu1
11-07-2020, 08:34 AM
I am now highly considering changing the tires soon. I bought this TT new in August and its only been towed from the dealer to its current location, about 65 miles. If I had a blow out on the road, I would pay a lot at the time to have not had a blow out. So, pay now, not later is my philosophy. Does that make sense??

Makes total sense and peace of mind. :thumbsup:

BrooksFam
11-07-2020, 08:50 AM
Makes total sense and piece of mind. :thumbsup:

Yes, I'd rather pay before a trip rather than in the middle of a trip "after" a blow out. :)

Ken / Claudia
11-07-2020, 04:22 PM
Put on a state police badge, drive daily on freeways, than tell me RV tires blew out/ get flats more than others. All tires all can fail.
Passenger cars are the most type of vehicle standing on the side of the road with a flat. Why? you ask because there also the highest numbers of vehicles on the road.
I may be on the other extreme of about 50 years of driving a vehicle. Many flats, some leakers and some blow outs. Fleet vehicles were the most problems, cars, pickups, boat trailers. I was lucky to get by a single year without a flat and about 5 blow outs in 30 years. Private vehicles 1 pickup blow up from rubber valve stem failure, unknown how many flats in my vehicles, guessing numbers in the 10-15 range.
All from road debris.

azchoco
11-09-2020, 05:29 AM
had my first blowout the other night returning home. Trailer King ST205/75R14. Unfortunately, It did some minor damage that my extended warranty will not cover. Cosmetic damage only. Pics attached. Few questions:

- Is that repair something i could do on my own?
- I'll be replacing all 5 tires, any recommendations? 27' dual axle 5600 dry weight +500 with "stuff"
I carry comp on my camper because my tow vehicle's comp doesn't cover my camper. It's collision coverage does cover collision damage to my camper.
I had a nasty blowout that did a lot of damage and my camper's comp coverage took care of it.