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Bbouch84
07-16-2020, 05:01 AM
So we are finally set up for a big trip and not just a night here night there.. So my question is with everything all in place at the site. Why does it seem bouncy? 2020 Bullet 261.. electric stabilizer jacks. Scissor wheel chocks.. do i need to put more of a load on the stabilizer jacks and tighten up the scissor jacks more?? What can i do to take the bounce out?

chuckster57
07-16-2020, 05:26 AM
How much bounce do you have? You won’t eliminate it all with just corner stab jacks. Be careful how much pressure you put on the stab jacks as they will fold and require replacement.

meaz93*
07-16-2020, 05:28 AM
Try re stabilizing with the slide out....and wheel choke both sides of the trailer. You may need to purchase an adjustable stabilizing bar for the slide for support as their is not a slide on the opposite side to offset the weight.
My Outback has 3 slides and I extend them out and than level the trailer...works for me.
Hope you get it figured out[emoji106]28701

meaz93*
07-16-2020, 05:38 AM
Chuckster57 is correct about the stabilizer jacks...they are not for leveling the trailer, and if over cranked can ruin them. You will need to get your trailer as level as possible first , than set the stabilizer jacks.
When I had my 2010 Springdale....everything was manual crank -lol
A lot of work to get her level.....the wife said it kept me young?
Now I just hit a button and the trailer self levels!
Good luck.

JRTJH
07-16-2020, 05:44 AM
Final answer: You can't remove all of the "bounce"....

The chassis rails are "cantilevered" (manufactured with a curve in them) so that when they are loaded, they sit more level. Look at any 50' "18 wheeler flat bed trailer when it's empty and you'll see the cantilever construction "in vivid detail"...

So, couple that construction "I beam spring", the springs that support the axles, the tires that bounce and the "give in the flooring structure as you walk around in the trailer" and then add the "sway as the trailer rotates around the axles" and you're going to get some movement inside the trailer. It's more pronounced at the extreme ends of the trailer, so if you're in bed and someone walks to the bathroom at the other end (or even "right next door"), you'll feel the movement. That's a part of being inside a vehicle that's built to absorb the shock and vibration of towing on the highway.

You can "tighten the stabilizers" (but don't overtighten them or they'll collapse or bend from the weight). You can put a block under the stabilizers (to raise the contact point and eliminate some of the "height movement") or you can consider BAL locking bars, Steadyfast locking bars or their competition. Those bars will eliminate much of the movement, but the trailer will always "bounce up and down" right over the axles.....

In the end, (final answer), you can't stop all the bounce but you can eliminate much of it... If you think sleeping in a "bouncing RV on stabilizer jacks" is "a wobbly night", you should try sleeping on a 30' boat sometime..... Every step produces not just one bounce, but prolonged bounces: ALL NIGHT LONG......

NH_Bulldog
07-16-2020, 07:00 AM
We have a rear bunk house and a front master bedroom. It used to wobble when the dogs walked around in the middle of the night. Then we installed JT Strongarms and combined with X-Chocks that has gotten rid of at least 90% of the movement we experienced. You will never get rid of it completely since the trailer is primarily supported on leaf springs and air filled tires.

chuckster57
07-16-2020, 07:54 AM
I DO NOT advise the use of slide supports, any kind of settling or excessive movement can damage the slide or the components of the slide mechanism. Those were meant for the old “manual” pull outs.

travelin texans
07-16-2020, 08:22 AM
I DO NOT advise the use of slide supports, any kind of settling or excessive movement can damage the slide or the components of the slide mechanism. Those were meant for the old “manual” pull outs.

My last 5er stated using these would void the warranty. They only stop the slide from moving anyway, the rest of the rv will still bounce, settle & rock.
Not to mention a PITA to install & store. I had the 5th wheel pin tripod for a bit, finally gave it away, it wasn't worth the trouble of having store & handle the heavy bulky thing that didn't help anyway.
As John said add blocks under your stabilizers, the shorter they extend the better.

wiredgeorge
07-16-2020, 08:26 AM
If I didn't bounce in my trailer I would think I was sleepwalking in my house. It is part of the camping experience to have some bounce. Your trailer weight is sitting on TIRES and in many cases LEAF SPRINGS. The stabilizer jacks only do a bit of stabilizing but campers bounce a bit.

jsb5717
07-16-2020, 09:06 AM
We have a rear bunk house and a front master bedroom. It used to wobble when the dogs walked around in the middle of the night. Then we installed JT Strongarms and combined with X-Chocks that has gotten rid of at least 90% of the movement we experienced. You will never get rid of it completely since the trailer is primarily supported on leaf springs and air filled tires.

^^^ this. It's not going to feel like a house but you can greatly minimize the movement...it just depends on how much you want to do to achieve that. The above is also my advice for the most effective, easy-to-achieve, stabilization.

The Strongarms (or other products like that) are simple to set once installed. The x-chocks are also good at minimizing movement. The only way to reduce actual bounce (assuming you are level and the corner stabilizers are properly set) would be to set a stabilizer under the frame next to the wheels. Only you can decide the comfortable balance between "added effort" and "I can live with that".