Towing a BHS243 with a Jeep Gladiator?

[shaker9999]

I've got a 2018 Bullet BHS243, and considering a Jeep Gladiator (with max towing package). Having trouble figuring out if the Jeff can actually tow this camper. Jeff says the tow capacity is 7,650 pounds. The weight specs of the Bullet are as follows:

Dry Weight 4,880 lbs.
Payload Capacity 1,620 lbs.
GVWR 6,500 lbs.
Hitch Weight 580 lbs.

Seems like this will be very tight, especially with a loaded tow vehicle.

Any thoughts?

[notanlines]

Who is Jeff and what has he been towing to give this baloney advice? That vehicle is NOT satisfactory for towing a 8500 pound wind sail with what will be a 900 pound hitch weight. It is good for towing a light ski boat or a popup camper.

[JRTJH]

First, the Bullet BHS243 is a 28'4" BOX with no aerodynamic construction. The specifications you listed are "shipping weight/payload capacity/GVW and EMPTY hitch weight"... Those weights (shipping and hitch) are as the trailer left the factory with empty propane tanks, no battery, no spare tire, no fluids and no cargo. The "reality" is that when the dealership fills the propane tanks (40 pounds) and adds a battery (40 pounds) and you add a weight distribution hitch (125 pounds) to the mix, the EMPTY tongue weight will be much closer to 785 pounds (580+40+40+125=785). Remember that is the EMPTY trailer weight. It will go up much more as you add cargo to the front passthrough storage, the front bedroom area closets and underbed storage area. Additionally, depending on where the fresh water tank is located, that may also add additional tongue weight.

Now, the ONLY specification that you've provided for the Jeep is the "max towing weight" which is an "advertising gimmick" not a "determining factor" in towing capacity. Jeep, like all other manufacturers, uses a flatbed trailer with heavy concrete blocks to certify towing capacity. That is a "FAR CRY" from the reality of towing a "non-aerodynamic BOX" down a highway with passing trucks, gusting sidewinds and other factors that dramatically affect towing.

Before anyone can offer any advice concerning your Jeep and that trailer, you'll need to provide the GVW, payload, axle ratings (front and rear), receiver capacity (the part the trailer hitch slips into that's mounted on your Jeep) as well as the anticipated passenger load, cargo in the Jeep and any additional equipment that's been installed on the Jeep since it left the factory. Things like floor mats, running boards, box covers, roof racks, accessory lights, fender flares, even maps in the console will need to be considered as part of the payload, reducing what's left for the maximum trailer tongue.

At first glance, it does not appear that you could SAFELY tow a 28', 6500 pound trailer with that vehicle given the typical trailer cargo loading, vehicle loading and since it's a "bunkhouse model" the passenger loading in the Jeep, all of which will likely put you well over the Jeep's towing capacity.

Provide us with the specifications on your Jeep and we can go from there.

[flybouy]

As John stated doesn't look good for any SUV. The "max towing pkg." or whatever else they tout in the advertisement or web sites can mean anything from a larger transmission cooler to just having a hitch installed from the factory. The sticker on the door pillar will tell the truth. That trailer would max out many of the 1/2 tom pickups on the road.

I always get a laugh from those Jeep tire covers with the "If you can read this flip me over" quote written upside down. Get one for the trailer spare if you use a Jeep to tow it. JMHO

[hasiukdk]

The Jeep Gladiator payload goes from 1600lb (naked with all towing upgrades) to 1100lb loaded with options. as I learned, towing numbers are useless (as well as trailer dry weights). Pay close attention to payload/tongue weights. And remember account for the 600 to 800 lbs for passengers and luggage etc. in payload calculation.

Bottom line....one "could" tow this, but shouldn't (from both legal and safety viewpoints).

[shaker9999]

This is excellent feedback. The more I analyze the “numbers”, the less I think the Gladiator will be appropriate. But I’ll try and get some more details. Thanks all

[sourdough]

Here is a link for some interesting info on the Gladiator. Note it is a MID size little pickup. A 6500lb. trailer is a load for a full size 1/2 ton and a mid sized little pickup is sorely outmatched by it:

https://www.tfltruck.com/2019/03/2020-jeep-gladiator-towing-specs/


I've not driven one because I don't like them but I've seen quite a few. They are in the same class as a Chevy Colorado and Ford Ranger. Neither, along with the gladiator, are tow vehicles for travel trailers of any size.

Get the numbers off the inside of the driver door for the specific info for YOUR vehicle....not brochure numbers. Besides the numbers being too much for that vehicle, the sheer size of a 28' trailer will overpower the light rear end and suspension with any wind or semi passing, no matter what wdh/sway you have simply because of simple physics. The wheelbase and suspension just aren't up to the task. Keep in mind....little truck = little trailer.....and 6500lbs./28' ain't little.

[shaker9999]

Got it - looking at some of the actual #'s now for the Gladiator model I was considering - and its not really close. So - I think I'll shift my focus to looking at an F-150 or Ram 1500. Trying to avoid going to a 3/4 or 1 ton truck (Gas mileage, etc), but we'll see.

[travelin texans]

That RV will put most 1/2 ton pickups right at their max, or like the Jeep, & well beyond.

[flybouy]

What are you towing it with now? And why do you want to consider a small SUV? If you have issues with a full size truck for commuting, parking or whatever then as far as I'm aware there are no alternatives for that size trailer. As has been stated, ignore the brochures, ignore what any salesman tells you as most are ill informed or so driven by greed they don't care.

You've come to the right place for advice and you are going about this in the correct order..before you buy! We see post after post where folks buy an undersized vehicle then come here asking what they can "add on" to make it work. Most folks here have been thru the issue and are giving you advice from experience. Wishing you well in your adventures.

[shaker9999]

Not looking at an SUV. Absolutely looking for a pickup - but trying to avoid over-buying. The gap in price and fuel efficiency between trucks like the Ford F-150 and Ford F-250 appears to be significant. I’m of course open to suggestions (that’s why I’m here!).

But the 3.7L F-150 (with the right two options) appears to be more than adequate. What else should I be considering?

[flybouy]

Not looking at an SUV. Absolutely looking for a pickup - but trying to avoid over-buying. The gap in price and fuel efficiency between trucks like the Ford F-150 and Ford F-250 appears to be significant. I’m of course open to suggestions (that’s why I’m here!).

But the 3.7L F-150 (with the right two options) appears to be more than adequate. What else should I be considering?

The other consideration would be "future purchases". No one has a crystal ball but most people just sort of "know" if they may be upgrading in the next few years. What I mean by that is if you have a camper and really, really enjoy it but wish you had more room, or if maybe in the next few years you want kids and it would be great to have more room. Or let's say you've been bitten by the camping bug but think in the back of your mind "gee, it would be really nice to have a toy hauler and take a ATV". In those scenarios you would most likely be "stuck" with a 1/2 ton without enough equity to move up. The first few years of financing is mainly finance payments while the depreciation in the time is huge.

Going from a 1/2 to a 3/4 or even a 1 ton may not be as expensive as you might think. These are decisions you must weigh and decide as you know what your finances and desires are. All I'm saying is don't rule out the options. You're doing the right thing by doing the due dillange up front.

[sourdough]

Got it - looking at some of the actual #'s now for the Gladiator model I was considering - and its not really close. So - I think I'll shift my focus to looking at an F-150 or Ram 1500. Trying to avoid going to a 3/4 or 1 ton truck (Gas mileage, etc), but we'll see.

It appears you already have the trailer from your first post. No matter what the door sticker on the Gladiator says I would take it off the possibility list, it is just too lightweight for that trailer.

You are doing the right thing looking at a 1/2 ton. Properly equipped a 1/2 ton will do OK with that trailer - not as good as a HD truck but it will do it and do it safely.

What are your priorities? By looking at what you are considering I am assuming cost?? Unless the initial premium is the issue I would be buying the 3.5 EcoBoost all day long over that 3.7L. The 3.7L only puts out 278 lbs. of torque which 6500 lbs. will kill completely. Note the comparison of the 3.5 EcoBoost vs the 3.7. The EcoBoost even gets better mileage:

http://www.f150hub.com/specs/ford-3.7.html

On the Ram, which I've owned many, I would get the 1/2 ton. I've always owned 4x4s but you may not want one. Get the club cab, 5.7L and for towing I would get the 3.92 axle ratio although the 3.55 would work (not as well, owned them both). I believe the 3.73 only comes in the 3/4 ton.

As far as mileage between a 3/4 and 1/2 ton I can only speak to Ram. My 3/4 ton Ram; 6.4L, 4x4, CC, 3.73 got almost identical mileage, sometimes better than my 1/2 ton, 5.7L, 4x4, CC, 3.92. Another way I look at a tow vehicle; I don' care about mileage....at all. I want a TV that tows my trailer adequately and safely, that is the paramount consideration. Whether the TV is a daily driver or what, when it is strapped to that trailer the ONLY thing that matters is that you, your family and everyone else on the road are safe.

[gunflintcamper]

We have a 4200 (dry) pound trailer and towed it with our Jeep Grand Cherokee with a tow capacity of 6500. The width and weight made it not feel too good. And we loaded super light. No extra people, water, bought food when we got there. Had no intentions of a long haul with it cuz we were between trucks for a while so it was ok. Just ok.

We bought the Ram 1500 this spring with the 3.92 axle ratio and the tow capacity is around 11,000 pounds. We load what we need in the trailer and the truck with no worries about mountains. BUT...we aren’t interested in a larger camper. My dad just bought the Gladiator Rubicon and he has said there’s no way he’d pull more than 7’ wide and 3500 pounds ever with it. It’s just not built for that. He can’t even see around our camper when he’s 20 yards back. LOL

As already mentioned a full size half ton truck will do your camper just fine but get the higher gear ratio. I believe it’s roughly 3000 pounds difference in capacity.

[Javi]

Or, you could do it like many of us... Buy a small trailer find out the tow vehicle isn't sufficient... Buy a 1/2 ton pickup and get to thinking... man I could pull a larger trailer...
Go buy a larger trailer... figure out the 1/2 ton is too small... buy a 3/4 ton pickup...

Man I could pull anything with this truck... Go buy a bigger 5th wheel... Get to thinking wow... this truck is sagging a little when I drop the trailer on it.. I'll put air bags on it...

Dang... truck rides level now but it sure takes a long time to stop with this trailer..

Go buy a dually.. Wow, Wow... Wow... I should of done this sooner, look at all the money I could have saved.. :D

[+Ruff Rider]

A jeep is not meant for towing. I wouldn't even tow a boat with one.

[JRTJH]

Not looking at an SUV. Absolutely looking for a pickup - but trying to avoid over-buying. The gap in price and fuel efficiency between trucks like the Ford F-150 and Ford F-250 appears to be significant. I’m of course open to suggestions (that’s why I’m here!).

But the 3.7L F-150 (with the right two options) appears to be more than adequate. What else should I be considering?

The statement in red is confusing and could cause you some SIGNIFICANT issues. If you mean the EcoBoost 2.7, it's too small for that size trailer and if you mean the EcoBoost 3.5, it will work well for you, but you might also consider the 5.0 V-8. Given the right options either the 3.5 or 5.0 will serve you well, but avoid the 2.7 with a trailer that large !!!!!

When it comes to a "naturally aspirated engine, AVOID the 3.3... The only NA engine to consider for towing is a V-8. In F150's that means the 5.0.

[Ken / Claudia]

It's been a few years since this aspect was mentioned. Many new RVers find after several outings the RV is not the best for their use and get another. As mentioned the next RV is almost always bigger. When buying a truck not able to go bigger the budget is also for a bigger truck along with the RV. Save money,plan ahead, get a TV that will handle the next RV besides the current one. Many of us old timers been there and done that.

[wiredgeorge]

My one tone diesel got 13 mpg last tank; some was dragging my 5ver. Looked at Gladiators city/claimed mpg and is 16 or 17 mpg; also looked at Gladiator price and about fainted... over $50K and for what? Red McCombs West has a 2020 F150 with V8, tow and payload package for $41K which appears to be a lot more capable dragging an RV than a jeep.

[flybouy]

My one tone diesel got 13 mpg last tank; some was dragging my 5ver. Looked at Gladiators city/claimed mpg and is 16 or 17 mpg; also looked at Gladiator price and about fainted... over $50K and for what? Red McCombs West has a 2020 F150 with V8, tow and payload package for $41K which appears to be a lot more capable dragging an RV than a jeep.

What did you use to get that "tone"? I haven't notice any difference in sound between my 3/4 ton and a 1 ton truck.:whistling:

[Ken / Claudia]

March I went to Ford dealer for my free engine oil change. Looked over the new loaded Ranger, priced out at 45,000. They had a new 2019 F350, Super cab loaded diesel dropped to 54,000. The cabs on the newer f trucks are so large at a distance I thought it was a crew cab.

[CaptnJohn]

Or, you could do it like many of us... Buy a small trailer find out the tow vehicle isn't sufficient... Buy a 1/2 ton pickup and get to thinking... man I could pull a larger trailer...
Go buy a larger trailer... figure out the 1/2 ton is too small... buy a 3/4 ton pickup...

Man I could pull anything with this truck... Go buy a bigger 5th wheel... Get to thinking wow... this truck is sagging a little when I drop the trailer on it.. I'll put air bags on it...

Dang... truck rides level now but it sure takes a long time to stop with this trailer..

Go buy a dually.. Wow, Wow... Wow... I should of done this sooner, look at all the money I could have saved.. :D

Hey ~~ I did that with a twist. Wifey always found a bigger heavier camper for me to pull. Bigger heavier camper meant bigger truck!

[apachewolf]

It is remarkable how often people are listing their empty tariler weight and the load cap. Why not just look at the GVWR? That says it all. And from that you can calculate the tongue weight which SHOULD be between 10% and 15% of the GVWR. GVWR is the TOTAL weight the trailer can weigh safely loaded.And yes the tongue weight IS part of the gross vehicle weight rating. I think it is often made more complex than it really is. Look at your truck first. What is the numbers on the sticker at the door. It will tell you how much weight (payload) you can put on the truck. Different trucks can PULL different loads, but one thing is impottant for all: The hitch weight. That is part of the payload. for the truck. Next look at the sticker (usually posted on the left front corner of the trailer) and see what the GVWR is. There is your answer no need to calculate a lot of different numbers.
Last but not least tow at a SAFE speed. Personally I keep my speed at about 55 mph, yes I know many that think that is stupid and too slow, but the tires on your trailer are NOT build for speed.
Just my personal thoughts on all these posts about safe towing.

Happy camping.

[crowbar]

Hi SHAKER. Welcome to the forum. I'm not one of the "weight freaks" on here, but I can tell you that a buddy of mine last summer hauled his lightweight fiberglass trailer with his Jeep for a long trip and cooked his transmission in the process. I have an f-150 with the 5.0, which is close in hp and mileage to the eco-boost. It has a GVWR of 8200 lbs. and tows a 26 ft. Springdale with a GVWR of 7525 lbs. with no issues whatsoever. My towing capacity is close to 17000 lbs. When I'm fully loaded, I'm still about 600 lbs. light on my truck. Just be careful and have a fun experience.

[RWRiley]

Why not just look at the GVWR? That says it all. And from that you can calculate the tongue weight which SHOULD be between 10% and 15% of the GVWR. GVWR is the TOTAL weight the trailer can weigh safely loaded.And yes the tongue weight IS part of the gross vehicle weight rating.

I see this a lot, and maybe for a family you would come closer to that number than we do. I can tell you that with just me and the Wife we load about 750 lbs (that includes LP and battery), and that is according to the scale, and that has been the case for our last 2 TTs. Even so - using GVWR of the trailer will give you a safe number.

[sourdough]

I see this a lot, and maybe for a family you would come closer to that number than we do. I can tell you that with just me and the Wife we load about 750 lbs (that includes LP and battery), and that is according to the scale, and that has been the case for our last 2 TTs. Even so - using GVWR of the trailer will give you a safe number.


The way you operate, and your knowledge of your numbers, is far different than most and certainly for folks new to towing an RV. That's the reason, as you noted, that the gvwr is used when talking about weights for folks not used to towing....and some that are.

We're a couple as well, well we have puppy too:), but we carry generally 1200 lbs. per scale (give or take a little). With the 5vr and time that may grow. Maybe not because that 1200 lbs. or so included a lot of stuff. Of course, bbq central keeps growing too.:D

To me the gvwr is ideal for folks simply due to that kind of variance. Throw in a 2-4 kids; gotta have bicycles, kayaks, games etc. etc....... You just don't know....and neither do they. So many just say...."we won't carry any water and we travel light". That's a great statement until they actually try that trip with "nothing"...or the barest of essentials. I've never met anyone that started camping and then went to "less" although I know there are those out there.

Your post is enlightening I hope to some, and hopefully illustrates the need for a scale weight and the knowledge that empowers the owner with.

[04ctd]

spousal unit wanted a jeep, and i wanted a truck, she kept walking by the Gladiator, and I kept saying "that's a solution, looking for a problem"

she kept saying I was stupid.

finally, few days later, she goes, "your right, it's not a truck, it's not a car, it's not a DD, it's just a weird vegan man-bun kind of vehicle"

exactly, it does nothing well, and everything half-baked. and gets poor MPG doing all of it!

she ended up with a 4dr jeep wrangler, and to me, it's useless, but she likes it, and it sits up higher so she can see around & feel safer, so wutevuh....

[wiredgeorge]

The way you operate, and your knowledge of your numbers, is far different than most and certainly for folks new to towing an RV. That's the reason, as you noted, that the gvwr is used when talking about weights for folks not used to towing....and some that are.

We're a couple as well, well we have puppy too:), but we carry generally 1200 lbs. per scale (give or take a little). With the 5vr and time that may grow. Maybe not because that 1200 lbs. or so included a lot of stuff. Of course, bbq central keeps growing too.:D

To me the gvwr is ideal for folks simply due to that kind of variance. Throw in a 2-4 kids; gotta have bicycles, kayaks, games etc. etc....... You just don't know....and neither do they. So many just say...."we won't carry any water and we travel light". That's a great statement until they actually try that trip with "nothing"...or the barest of essentials. I've never met anyone that started camping and then went to "less" although I know there are those out there.

Your post is enlightening I hope to some, and hopefully illustrates the need for a scale weight and the knowledge that empowers the owner with.


OK Mr. Dough... you and RW are having a discussion about loaded weight. It is now time each of you disclose you and your spouse's weight so we can determine where the delta in your computations lie! :hide:

[+Ruff Rider]

I have a 03 Montana 3280 RL. I always tow with my water full I do have a scale tag but it's in the RV storage lot. I have a 15 F250 Lariat trim Truck. I have towed mine about 40,000 miles. I am not a weekend camper nor do I go south in the winter and park it.
Like another guy said the yellow sticker is for DMV. My tags this year were $655. This is the reason for the sticker. If I went with a 350 the sticker would be exactly the same. However I would have to add the 11,500 package to the truck because the 350 doesn't come like that unless it's ordered that way. It's a option. I will make a trip to the RV today and get my weight slip