How hard do you guys accelerate to tow!

[Deeds]

I know the dumb question is the one that's never asked! But this one might change that... I have a 2000 f350 7.3 and I've been struggling with the way my truck tows I have a 2015 laredo bumper pull its 26ft, my issue is that I dont have tow haul mode and i refuse to chip my truck, light acceleration 1st and 2nd wind up and 3rd it just dumps rpm down to around 1400 which is pretty low to get moving, harder throttle I feel like I'm beating the snot out of my truck, I can get rpms up but I am definetly cooking to get up to speed... my question is to avoid wear and tear on the truck what do you guys think is best slow acceleration at lower rpms, or fast acceleration and high rpms and higher boost,

[gearhead]

I think letting it bog down is worse than revving it up. I would be running a high quality name brand synthetic in it. Valvoline, Delo, or my favorite Rotella 15-40.

[Brentw]

Don't know 7.3s , but ran Cummins and a duramax, I don't hit the governor, but pull pretty good getting rolling. Find the power band and get there till up to speed.

[rhagfo]

Well our old 2001 Ram with Cummins and 5 speed manual, I just rolled hard on the throttle to about 3,000 rpm then shifted. the big hurt was the 3.55's and a 12,500# 5er that had me 4,000# over GCWR for the 3.55's I did have RV 275 injectors and a small chip and a double disk clutch.

[Deeds]

The main issue I'm having is that putting it down I'll go like a banshee, it's really driving like an idiot! But if I lay off the throttle a bit maybe halfway to 3/4 down 1st gear shifts around 2500 rpm 2nd 2500 rpm 3rd immediately locks tq and rpms dive to about 1300 or 1400 rpm and speed stops gaining, if I push it down it downshifts to and again around 3k rpm so 3rd with tq lockup is what's causing the main issue! If I put her to the floor or close to it's just too fast! I feel like if the truck was pulling a heavier trailer it would probably be different with the shifts I'm just confused at which way would be better on the truck! I really dont wanna tune it just to avoid dumping rpm with tq lockup!

[flybouy]

Did it ever tow before or is this a new endeavor? That should have no problem pulling a 25' camper as long as there's no mechanical issues with the trailer like binding/dragging breaks. Your truck is 20 years old, could it be that it's getting tired? Is the boost normal? Any change in fuel milage or exhaust smoke?

[Deeds]

The truck is better than most! Haven't broken 200k on it yet and has been immaculately maintained! Hasn't towed much in life before I got my hands on it! Trailer is in great shape too no brakes dragging or anything! I've got a new turbo making 17lbs of boost under load and no smoke or up pipe leaks! For a stock truck it's running great! No issues other than torque converter causing rpms to dump down! I've heard people say that the lighter weight of my trailer (6500lbs) is what my problem probably is... I just dont know what to do about it

[Deeds]

I've always towed prior using my chevys with tow haul and it made a world of difference! Not having that feature really stinks

[1tenor]

You might check the differential ratio. Changing the rear end for one more suited for towing would probably help.

[Deeds]

Its 3.73 in there I've towed more weight with less gears and less motor and have done fine it's just fords tq lockup that's the issue... I just dont know if I should go slow and let it work itself up to speed or boost it and go at a high rpm

[Ken / Claudia]

I had 2 7.3s the last was a 2002 til 2019. CC with 3:73 gears. Fords trannys back than, that at the time I cannot remember the model were junk. I went through #1 at 40,000 , got a new ford tranny replaced by ford and it lasted til about 80,000. I then spend the money to buy aftermarket the best 5400 I ever spend. I knew several co-workers who towed with those and more people I met all had problems until they went aftermarket. After it never let me down or had problems you describe. Before I always towed without OD on, after it was fine with OD on or off. The tranny coolers are way too small. I think your talking tor. converter in tranny wore out. I am no tranny expert. Mine blew clutch plates apart, next 1 overheated when used towing in hot temps. Talk to a tranny shop. Good ones all about that tranny.

[wiredgeorge]

Might be better for some focus on your transmission issues by heading over to the powerstroke forum and asking there. Lot of knowledgeable folks there who might just be able to speak about your transmission.

https://www.powerstroke.org/forums/99-03-7-3l-general-discussion.12/

[Gobirds38]

I would manually shift the trans until up to speed, then to auto after speed is reached. Less stress on the trans.

[Keystoned]

Deeds, why the reluctance to chip? I have the same truck basically and the hydra chip is magic for towing, even on the lowest setting. It changes the shift strategy to use the 7.3s power band so much better than stock.
Do not be afraid to shift at 3k rpms if you need to. Yes it gets loud but you cannot harm the engine or trans unless you have another problem to begin with. Redline is above that anyway. The stock shift strategy is absolute poop!
Feel free to pm me if you like...

[flybouy]

Take a look at this forum ... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php
There's over 36,000 posts on the pre - powerstroke diesels alone.

[Hensmeister]

As everyone else, there's a story about how its this way or that way or its trash or its golden. Well, here's a golden story. 2002 F-350 regular cab with a 7.3 and auto trans. This truck was purchased in 2006 by my uncle for his farm for gravity wagon duty(gross weight is 30k + when loaded). I used it last weekend to move a tractor. The bumper pull trailer I used was 4k lbs by itself and the tractor was around 5k. So 9k lbs. I don't accelerate hard ever, let the truck and transmission do what it's used to. Would shift 2k-2100 rpm. TQ locked up around 1400 and it went on its merry way up to 60 on the state road, it took a minute but it got there. Yes, it can be sluggish with weight but that is the way the transmission was designed. Let the truck do its thing and love it. I know when he decides to exchange it for a different truck I will be there with cash in hand to buy that truck from him.

[Keystoned]

The 7.3s are work horses designed to be pushed. There is no reason to baby them. Since the auto trans is only a 4 speed, you should rev them into their power band which is really between 2 and 3 thousand rpm. 2500 rpm is good for long hills in the appropriate gear. If it hunts for gears, select the lower one. I've had mine for 20 years now and I used 'be gentle' until I realized that was just the wrong way to use it.

[wiredgeorge]

Take a look at this forum ... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php
There's over 36,000 posts on the pre - powerstroke diesels alone.

The 2000 was a Powerstroke and the Ford Truck forum isn't quite as helpful as the powerstroke.org forum I recommended. BTW: I have a 50 hp tow tune on my 6.0L and don't notice a lot of additional power BUT the shifting is more appropriate for towing; my tuner (SCT) offers a towing shift tune (shift points only) tune. I didn't mention this as I am not sure what is available for the 7.3 TURBO.

[flybouy]

The 2000 was a Powerstroke and the Ford Truck forum isn't quite as helpful as the powerstroke.org forum I recommended. BTW: I have a 50 hp tow tune on my 6.0L and don't notice a lot of additional power BUT the shifting is more appropriate for towing; my tuner (SCT) offers a towing shift tune (shift points only) tune. I didn't mention this as I am not sure what is available for the 7.3 TURBO.

Well excuuuuuuuse me!:lol:

[JRTJH]

Having owned Fords exclusively for the past 40+ years, I can say that with the 7.3L diesel and the 6.9L engine prior to that, the transmission was the 'weakest link". The Navistar 7.3L was about as "bulletproof" an engine as any. Even with the turbo problems during the initial upgrades from NA to turbo fueling, that engine seldom failed. The transmission, however..... Well, it's too painful to even discuss..… Between the E4OD, the 4R100 and the C-6 they replaced, there wasn't a lot of difference in mechanicals, just in the control system (manual/vacuum vs electronic). It wasn't until Ford built their own diesel and designed a "modern, capable transmission" to mount behind the 6.7L engine that they "found a winner"...

It's often been said that the "ideal truck" would be a Ford frame/body, a Cummins diesel and a Allison transmission. That may no longer be the "ideal truck" as Ford has significantly improved their engine/transmission, GM has significantly improved their diesel/body/frame and RAM has improved their body/frame and added the ASIN transmission... So, all the manufacturers have improved most components in most models....

As for the question, "How hard to you accelerate when towing?" My answer is, "like I had an egg between my foot and the accelerator pedal".... Hotdogging any truck with a 10,000 pound trailer behind it is like "trying to find the weakest link in a chain"... Why "push to break things" ???

[Keystoned]

Yes the trans is the weak link and I got 140k miles out of my first one. Not bad towing a lot of the time. So $2000 every 140k miles is a lot cheaper than a new truck, right? Not a big deal...
Staying below redline is not hot dogging, it is normal. Revving to only half of redline is abnormal. If it breaks with normal usage then either it was built wrong or not maintained. Every manufacturer publishes what their limits are and will warranty their product as long as it used as such.
Walking on eggshells is no way to live. If one is afraid to drive their truck as it was designed, then just stay home and look at it.
OP, here is another PSD forum;
https://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/99-up-7-3l-power-stroke-engine-drivetrain.24/

[hankpage]

As for the question, "How hard to you accelerate when towing?" My answer is, "like I had an egg between my foot and the accelerator pedal".... Hotdogging any truck with a 10,000 pound trailer behind it is like "trying to find the weakest link in a chain"... Why "push to break things" ???

I usually agree with John on most things BUT!!!!! I've owned Mopar products most my life.
I agree that the trans was the weak link but to me lugging an engine with low end torque is harder on all components than keeping it wound up, maintaining boost and watching exhaust gas temp closely. Some may call this "Driving it like you stole it" . I call it " Finding the sweet spot and staying in the torque range of your engine." With my I6 it is about 2600 rpm, your v8 will be higher.
JM2¢, Hank

[FlyingAroundRV]

Diesel engines are workhorses. They should be worked, not babied. Look up the specs on your engine, where the power and / or torque peak. That's where you want your engine working if possible. When you've settled into a long flat tow, let the engine and trans designers do their job.
The manufacturers design the combination of engine and transmissions for longevity. IMO, people who start tinkering with that are only thinking short term "performance" and not long term durability.
I know it's comparing apples and oranges, but my aircraft engine is designed to operat at near it's redline RPMs. Running it at less than that is specifically advised against by the manufacturer. That engine is, for all intents and purposes, an "industrial" engine such as one driving a generator, that operates with a fairly consistent load at a narrow RPM range. Diesel engine are designed in a similar manner, ie as industrial power sources. Diesels generally have narrower power bands than gas engines, which is why heavy trucks usually have so many gears.
IMO, work it hard and maintain it well.

[wiredgeorge]

I believe we are in truck brand argument onset mode. I drive Fords as they are the cheapest and mine is paid for. I had a 460 in my 96 F250 and I believe it had the C6 although can't recall for sure and the transmission was NOISY when pulling up a hill and it dropped down a gear. Scared my wife every time we pulled the camper in the hills. I suspect Ford is a little thin on cab insulation but never had a problem (except the brakes were not very good).

[Keystoned]

Let's not go down the brand argument road and stick to the OPs issue.
OP? Where are you?
Looking back on Deeds posts...what is wrong with towing in 3rd and avoid OD altogether? Should be able to this all day unless the trans gets warm for a bad reason like my old one did. The trans cooler bypass line/valve failed and the trans temp went up a lot.
Deeds, do you have any real gages, not the stock ones?

[hankpage]

I believe we are in truck brand argument onset mode. I drive Fords as they are the cheapest and mine is paid for. I had a 460 in my 96 F250 and I believe it had the C6 although can't recall for sure and the transmission was NOISY when pulling up a hill and it dropped down a gear. Scared my wife every time we pulled the camper in the hills. I suspect Ford is a little thin on cab insulation but never had a problem (except the brakes were not very good).

No brand war. I was just pointing out that different types of engines will have different torque ranges. An inline engine will crank much slower that the V8. So the OP will have to find his own sweet spot at a higher rpm than mine. All three manufacturers make good trucks it's just a personal choice. Hank

[Keystoned]

Yes, find the sweet spot for your own rig and truck on!

[sonofcy]

I know the dumb question is the one that's never asked! But this one might change that... I have a 2000 f350 7.3 and I've been struggling with the way my truck tows I have a 2015 laredo bumper pull its 26ft, my issue is that I dont have tow haul mode and i refuse to chip my truck, light acceleration 1st and 2nd wind up and 3rd it just dumps rpm down to around 1400 which is pretty low to get moving, harder throttle I feel like I'm beating the snot out of my truck, I can get rpms up but I am definetly cooking to get up to speed... my question is to avoid wear and tear on the truck what do you guys think is best slow acceleration at lower rpms, or fast acceleration and high rpms and higher boost,

I just drive mine but it's a 2017 with computers in the engine and tranny and it's a diesel. Torque is what you need, HP is pretty much meaningless and a diesel is generally at least twice as powerful. Bottom line is you are normal. Either upgrade truck or find out what your peak torque is and stay close to that RPM regardless of gear. Bring lots of extra gas.

[flybouy]

Deeds, I don't think it's a matter of "slow acceleration" or "fast acceleration" but rather the "right acceleration" which like most things is most likely somewhere in-between the two.

What I'd suggest is to do some research on the power band (that's the rpm curve where power and torque begin to top out and flatten before falling off) for that engine. Then research the transmission gearing. Some transmissions will "fall on their face" if the spread is too wide from one gear to another. The differential gearing also has a great effect on this as well.

You are apposed to "chipping" the drivetrain but often that is the most economical solution and can ADD to the longevity of the drivetrain and not be detrimental to it. The engine tuners designed for tuning will take into account the pitfalls of the transmission and alter the shift patterns in order to keep the engine in a better power band for the situation. The end result would be like driving a stick shift where you are experienced enough to know that "I'm pulling a steep grade from a dead stop so I better hold more rpm between my 2nd to 3 rd gear shift than I would on a flat." The thing is, a tuner can do that calculation in milliseconds while factoring in the engine's performance at that instant accounting for a number of factors from temperature, air density, transmission slippage, traction etc. Newer trucks accomplish essentially the same thing with the "tow haul" option engaged.

[travelin texans]

I usually agree with John on most things BUT!!!!! I've owned Mopar products most my life.
I agree that the trans was the weak link but to me lugging an engine with low end torque is harder on all components than keeping it wound up, maintaining boost and watching exhaust gas temp closely. Some may call this "Driving it like you stole it" . I call it " Finding the sweet spot and staying in the torque range of your engine." With my I6 it is about 2600 rpm, your v8 will be higher.
JM2¢, Hank

I would agree Hank!
I wouldn't call my driving "hotdogging" but I'm going to mash that right pedal just as hard as necessary, if the egg breaks so be it, to get up to speed, towing or not, when merging into traffic, by not doing so you're a traffic hazard. As of yet haven't blown up any part on the truck & don't feel I'm abusing it either, it was meant to work so I work it.

[CaptnJohn]

Don’t rush to speed. It will get there. Just caution when pulling into traffic, give yourself a lot of room and behind you can wait those coming can pass.

[JRTJH]

I think there's a difference in definition between my "driving like there's an egg on the accelerator" and the way some are understanding what I said...

I mash down the right pedal enough to get the truck moving and accelerate as rapidly as most of the traffic around me... What I meant by the "like an egg" comment was that I don't "hot dog" or "slam it down" when starting off.

Ford diesel engine management system (computers) reduces torque output at low end RPM to prevent excessive low gear torque to the transmission, so essentially, the computer won't let you "slam it down" anyway. With over 1000 FTLB of torque, it would be impossible to "slam it in gear and cram the accelerator to the floor" and keep a transmission or rear end under the truck. Heck, just the rear wheel hop and the light rear end weight of the truck would cause it to "sit in one spot and burn the tires down to the rims"...

What I meant by my comment was that I "don't hot dog or try to spin the rear tires" when accelerating, either with or without the trailer in tow.

Will it spin the tires? Heck yea, but at the price of trucks and the cost of diesel, at my age, getting there 2 seconds sooner isn't worth the added stress on my equipment. YMMV....

[Deeds]

Let's not go down the brand argument road and stick to the OPs issue.
OP? Where are you?
Looking back on Deeds posts...what is wrong with towing in 3rd and avoid OD altogether? Should be able to this all day unless the trans gets warm for a bad reason like my old one did. The trans cooler bypass line/valve failed and the trans temp went up a lot.
Deeds, do you have any real gages, not the stock ones?


I have no issues towing in third gear once rpms are obtained, my main issue was strictly torque converter lockup once it shifts 3rd gear, 1st and 2nd gear put me right in a good power band but since it's a 4 speed, once it shifts into 3rd gear the tq immediately locks dumping my rpms to around 1400 to 1500 rpm, if I put my pedal down I can keep it from dumping the rpms to say maybe 1700 rpm but still boost is almost lost, when the pedals down with the weight of my trailer it gets me going way to fast, if I let off the gas a bit still not babying it 1st and 2nd wind up and then 3rd gear and tq lockup take place it's just kindof a no win... I looked into the e40d trans that's in the truck and gear ratios will not adjust even when towing the only thing that takes place is increased line pressure to lock up the tq sooner. So im struggling with go fast and look like a moron and avoid lugging her down and keeping boost or go slow with low boost low rpm and move at a snail's pace? Also I do have the edge insight digital obd2 style gauges but since it's not chopped I have not gotten around to a pyro gauge yet

[rhagfo]

I would agree Hank!
I wouldn't call my driving "hotdogging" but I'm going to mash that right pedal just as hard as necessary, if the egg breaks so be it, to get up to speed, towing or not, when merging into traffic, by not doing so you're a traffic hazard. As of yet haven't blown up any part on the truck & don't feel I'm abusing it either, it was meant to work so I work it.

I agree with Hank and Danny, in towns with large crowns to the roads I prefer to stay out of the right lane, some light post are too close to the road. I get it moving.

[flybouy]

Start at 3:25 ... "Just punch it!"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUs1HZIrMMQ

[skmct]

I don't think either approach is good for your truck. First thing I would do is add a piro. Exhast temps will tell you alot.The next thing is to get a good tow tune that also controls your shift points and TQ converter. Tow haul changes shift points and locks up the converter. I think you are harming your trans by overheating the fluid with converter slippage. Number three on the list of upgrades should be a trans temp gauge.

[Dave W]

A 2000 Ford 7.3 will NOT keep up with the new diesel trucks. 235 horsepower, 500 lb ft of torque coupled to a 4R100 pretty wide ratio and actually a 3 speed transmission with 4th being a .70 overdrive is not the best choice in today's world of diesel powered pickup trucks hauling today's heavy towables. Yes, that engine is pretty bulletproof but for any performance, pedal down hard and let it sing - and it can, but it isn't a modern engine coupled to a 6 to 10 speed transmission that has virtually an infinite shift program

[Kzneft]

The 7.3 is bullet proof, but, don't let the EGR's get to high or you will burn the valves. I had a "smart" chip on mine and when it was getting close to high EGR's it would automatically tune-down as not to burn valves. 7.3 was great but I would hardly ever get into overdrive. It was like night and day when I got a 6.7 2017 F350, but I did love my 7.3 but will never go back now. Also the 7.3 had issues with the tranny getting to hot as the trans cooler sucked. Make sure you add a tran cooler if you want it to last.

[Badbart56]

My old 97 F350 was a 225 hp 420 ft/lb torque with the 4R100 but I had the Ford dealer put an Edge 4 way chip and a 4 inch exhaust on it when I started using it commercially for towing RV's and farm equipment. Made a world of difference. It improved the mileage by about a mile, mile and a half better and it changed the shift points enough so you didn't get that bogged down third or fourth gear shift. Granted mine had 4:10 gears but I towed stuff between 8500 and 1300 lbs with it. I even had a 16K lb bulldozer on my 46 foot flatbed trailer once. The techs at the dealer were very familiar with that programmer and by running the 4 inch exhaust they told me the EGR's would never be a problem. It did go through a couple of transmissions but that was pretty much expected. The tech that rebuilt it told me to change the fluid with synthetic every 25K miles and bring it back for a rebuild every 100K. They put a billet torque convertor in it the last time. I loved that truck and it was super reliable but after I got my 6.7 with the 6 speed automatic it was obvious that it was like apples and oranges. About the only thing they had in common was the fact that they both burned diesel fuel. I do miss that diesel engine sound sometimes though. That thing was louder than the Cummins ISX that's in my 2017 International ProStar! Diesels have come a long way!

[avalanchehd]

You may have an engine performance issue, seems like you should make more boost.
V8s dont pull down low like an inline six, rpms not gonna hurt the old 7.3.
The E4OD/4R100 transmission is basically a gas transmission upgraded for diesel use, but its gear ratio splits are not the best for diesel performance. The torgue converter clutch normally comes on between 2-3rd gear and helps the trans run cooler when its locked. That truck really shouldnt have an issue with your trailer.
7.3/444d when used in an international application has 2 basic power modes light throttle partial load or full throttle heavy load.

[Keystoned]

IIRC, stock boost was max at about 19 psi for that year of 7.3, assuming you didn't get surge pulling a hill. I've done some mild mods and have seen close to 28 psi with no surge in TX hill country. But yeah, the trans doesn't have enough gears or cooling so a '6.0' cooler and gages are in order for serious towing.
We may get into a modern truck in the next year or so, just because...

[ADQ K9]

Is there a shift kit available for that transmission? Adding a functional cooler is a no brainer as well as synthetic fluid. IMO

[Badbart56]

Is there a shift kit available for that transmission? Adding a functional cooler is a no brainer as well as synthetic fluid. IMO

I had a Bank's TransCommand in mine for a while but my buddy that rebuilt the transmission (he's a Ford transmission tech) took it out because he believed it shifted too hard.

[Keystoned]

I think transgo makes a shift kit but there are other components you can buy separately to tune the shifting firmness.
The shift points/rpms need a chip or programmer to alter. I recommend the hydra chip. Night and day difference and you get up 14 different tunes with various hp/tq levels and shift points.