Jacking up trailer

[Carrottop]

Hello,

My trailer sits on a permanent site and the side closest to the deck has sank down due to soft ground. My question is where can I jack it up from to add some wood under the tires on that side. I cannot use the frame as the RVQ propane line runs from front to the back of the trailer on that frame rail. I have attached as good as photos as I can to get some advice on where to lift it. I have also attached the photo of the jacks I have. I do have two jacks and could lift both axles at the same time. Thanks for any advice on how to do this safely.

[travelin texans]

Place that bottle jack between the u lot holding the spring pack, you'll have to jack up each axle separately though.

[Carrottop]

Thank you. I have heard never to jack up a trailer from the axle but I didn't know where else to lift it. I will place it in between the u hooks.

[Big 417]

It is best to lift via the frame, or both axles as you mentioned. Each individual axle/spring is not designed to support the total weight on its own. Granted your only lifting a slight bit. So doing it axle per axle will get you by.

[Keystoned]

I used a block of 2x4 under the u-bolts when I lift one tire off the ground for a short while...

[JRTJH]

It is best to lift via the frame, or both axles as you mentioned. Each individual axle/spring is not designed to support the total weight on its own. Granted your only lifting a slight bit. So doing it axle per axle will get you by.

There's a significant difference in a "static load" (jacking a stationary trailer axle/wheel 3 or 4 inches to place a block under the tire) and a "dynamic load" (experiencing a blowout at 60 MPH) and the trailer being supported by one axle until the defective wheel/tire are replaced.

Every tandem axle trailer that I know of is capable of supporting the trailer weight (during an emergency) on a single axle on one side of the trailer. I can't begin to count the number of trailers that I've seen "rolling down the highway on one tire with the other axle tied up with a strap or chain and the 4 way flashers signaling a slow moving vehicle"....

There is no danger of damaging anything by lifting the tire/wheel "one at a time" high enough to place a block under each tire.

Considering that there are multiple "tire ramp devices" sold and used every day that are designed to "back one tire into the air to lift the other tire off the ground" It's a routine practice on any trailer I've ever seen, for one tire/wheel/axle to support the entire weight "in a static condition for a short time" with absolutely no harm or damage risk. Otherwise, How do you change a tire on the side of the road ?????

[B-O-B'03]

I used a block of 2x4 under the u-bolts when I lift one tire off the ground for a short while...

That is the way I do it too, when packing the bearings, checking brakes etc.

-Brian

[Carrottop]

Here is a question for everyone. When I was jacking up my trailer to add some wood underneath to level it another camper came by and said that he placed two wood platforms under each axle and then a span of 6x6 across both platforms under each ubolt thus taking the load off the tires which are in the air now and his 5th wheel is resting on the on the 6x6's. Is this a better way of doing this for permanent trailers? What would be the advantages vs disadvantages for this.

[notanlines]

John, probably no advantage if he didn't take the tires off and store them out of the sun and someplace cool. Even at that, RV tires don't age very well.

[flybouy]

If you are truly using it as a permanent set up then I would treat it like a mobile home. Jack the trailer up off the wheels, use concrete blocks to support the trailer from the frame. A mobile home (or manufactured home if you like) sales/service company have the equipment and knowledge to do this.

[Big 417]

Here is a question for everyone. When I was jacking up my trailer to add some wood underneath to level it another camper came by and said that he placed two wood platforms under each axle and then a span of 6x6 across both platforms under each ubolt thus taking the load off the tires which are in the air now and his 5th wheel is resting on the on the 6x6's. Is this a better way of doing this for permanent trailers? What would be the advantages vs disadvantages for this.

For sure, now there's no dependence on the air pressure in the tires. Still not as solid as blocking under the frame tho, as there's still movement in the springs.

[Carrottop]

two questions from blocking under the frame. 1. Does the ammonia fridge not require some movement to prevent bubbles from forming in system? If the trailer is removed from the springs and placed on blocks on the corners I don't imagine there would be any movement at all. 2. I have an RVQ line that runs along one entire side of the trailer on the frame rail how do I deal with that. There are some pictures above.

Thanks everyone for the input.

[flybouy]

two questions from blocking under the frame. 1. Does the ammonia fridge not require some movement to prevent bubbles from forming in system? If the trailer is removed from the springs and placed on blocks on the corners I don't imagine there would be any movement at all. 2. I have an RVQ line that runs along one entire side of the trailer on the frame rail how do I deal with that. There are some pictures above.

Thanks everyone for the input.

I think maybe there's confusion that the vibrations going down the road will "shake down" the refrigerant even though the fridge isn't level. A leveled fridge does not need any movement to operate. Does your fridge not work when you are away from it? As for the gas line you can either go to the side to support the frame or use wood and notch it to fir around the gas line.

[JRTJH]

I agree with both responses. There's no "advantage" for taking the weight off the tires if you're going to keep them "aired up to support the trailer". Eventually they will "age out" but as long as they don't start leaking, the trailer will be fine.

Jacking them up and supporting the axles will not remove the "spring bounce" that you get inside the trailer, but would eliminate a "leaking tire" from making the trailer unlevel...

As Marshall suggests, if you're "truly in a permanent location" why not jack the trailer, put concrete piers (not hollow concrete building blocks) under the trailer in 3 or 4 locations, along each frame rail, and be "done with bounce and tire issues"... Then you could remove the tires/wheels, store them under the trailer (out of the sun and elevated so they're also out of the mud/water) and not have to worry about airing the tires or sun damage.....

[travelin texans]

If permanent personally I'd rather add blocks under the frame in about 3-4 spots of both sides not just front/rear, probably a block on either side of the wheels & front/rear.
You can buy prethreaded black piping at most hardware or big box lumberyards & relocate the RVQ line out of the way & possibly to a better location. Just be sure to close LP tanks & bleed the pressure before do so & use the yellow Teflon tape designed for LPG use on all joints.

[Beemer Phil]

Noticed the same issue of the propane line running down the bottom of the frame on my 2920BH. Lack of engineering and not thinking about things like ongoing maintenance. As time goes on you will encounter more quality and engineering issues. Not sure why they didn’t put that line on the outboard side of the frame. I’m sure it was as simple as “easier and cheaper”.