Clear RTV/Caulk Question

[JBWardFamily]

Hi all. I need to re-caulk some of the seams around our 2017 Cougar 33MLS and was wondering if regular clear caulk from Lowe's would work or if there was a better product made for RVs or heavy outdoor use.

[JRTJH]

Don't use anything that has silicone in it. Silicone, when it cures, is nearly impossible to get off of your trailer and nothing will stick to cured silicone, not even "new silicone" so if you ever need to reseal that area, nothing will stick to what you "smeared on in 2020"...

Go to an RV parts store and get some ProFlex or Sikaflex for the walls, siding, windows, door frames. Use DICOR or Alpha Systems self leveling sealant for the TPO roof membrane and all the structures on the roof.

Here's a short video on "don't use silicone" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1q244d2jlBw

[chuckster57]

I would use pro seal before I used SikaFlex. Pro seal can be removed much easier if needed.

[Logan X]

I use Proflex made by geocell for anything that is clear. I use non leveling Dicor for other applications not on the roof, and I use self leveling Dicor for the roof.

https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-GC28100-Flex-Flexible-Clear/dp/B001FC98X2

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-551LSW1-White-Non-Sag-Sealant/dp/B003YJLIW8

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Self-Leveling-Sealant-10-3-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B000BRF7QE

I believe the seal under the windows and the edge moldings is putty tape.

https://www.amazon.com/United-Abrasives-B000BQUPYE-Putty-Tape/dp/B000BQUPYE

[travelin texans]

IMHO there's NO WHERE on a RV for 'silicone" caulk!
Silicone spray is recommended as lubrication.

[Tdesrosiers]

I asked this same question when we took delivery of our trailer, and the tech Emphatically said to use silicone caulk because it flexes, and adheres better than the "made for rv products" that are out there. I 100 percent agree with him. I used geocell proflex on our last camper and it did not hold up well. This contradicts other opinions on this thread, but to each his own. Just be sure to prep the area before application. No sealant will adhere to a dirty surface. I use silicone for other applications and have no trouble when it comes time to reapply. Good luck!

[travelin texans]

I asked this same question when we took delivery of our trailer, and the tech Emphatically said to use silicone caulk because it flexes, and adheres better than the "made for rv products" that are out there. I 100 percent agree with him. I used geocell proflex on our last camper and it did not hold up well. This contradicts other opinions on this thread, but to each his own. Just be sure to prep the area before application. No sealant will adhere to a dirty surface. I use silicone for other applications and have no trouble when it comes time to reapply. Good luck!

When comes time to reapply silicone will not adhere to silicone so all the old needs to be removed, which is next to impossible to do.
With the Geocell & good prep you can apply over the old.
Good luck with silicone!

[flybouy]

I asked this same question when we took delivery of our trailer, and the tech Emphatically said to use silicone caulk because it flexes, and adheres better than the "made for rv products" that are out there. I 100 percent agree with him. I used geocell proflex on our last camper and it did not hold up well. This contradicts other opinions on this thread, but to each his own. Just be sure to prep the area before application. No sealant will adhere to a dirty surface. I use silicone for other applications and have no trouble when it comes time to reapply. Good luck!

Read a post recently where the dealer told someone to pour bleach down the drain because they had a clog. So take your advice where you feel confident.

[sourdough]

When comes time to reapply silicone will not adhere to silicone so all the old needs to be removed, which is next to impossible to do.
With the Geocell & good prep you can apply over the old.
Good luck with silicone!



Learned that years ago on our mountain home. I wanted to replace an entry window because it cracked. The previous owner was either in love with silicone or had stock in one of the companies because it was SLATHERED all over the window edges and the wood trim. I tried, in vain I might add, for a LONG time using lots of different things (along with some "motivational" language) to remove that stuff and make it look decent. Finally, what patience I had ran out and I tore the entire wall and window out and replaced it all so it would look good and not have silicone residue, wiggly worms etc. sticking all over the place. And yes, you cannot put anything on it hoping to stick....silicone or paint.

[flybouy]

IMHO there are "specific" products for somethings just like there are "specific" tools for each size bolt, screw etc. I've never been a fan of using non specific unless there's no alternative, i.e. something less than ideal to get me back on the road.

So if I'm planning on a repair I'm going to choose the right product or tool. I'm not going to tighten a #3 Phillips screw with a #2 bit, and I'm not going to put silicone on anything unless it belongs there.

[ljp]

Once an old sealant has been removed, what would you use to thoroughly clean the area involved before adding the new sealant?

[travelin texans]

Once an old sealant has been removed, what would you use to thoroughly clean the area involved before adding the new sealant?

I've used rubbing alcohol & denatured alcohol, both with good results.

[Badbart56]

I hear this over and over. You know that my Fusion has a lifetime silicon roof, correct? There are primers made specifically for silicon.

[Customer1]

My Cougar came new with silicone caulk all over it. I hate the stuff.

I changed a failed marker light and the majority of my time was spent trying to remove the silicone. I used mineral spirits and a razor blade.

[Big 417]

My Cougar came new with silicone caulk all over it. I hate the stuff.

I changed a failed marker light and the majority of my time was spent trying to remove the silicone. I used mineral spirits and a razor blade.

Yeah, same here on our fuzion. Not so easy to spot touch up areas where the sealant has separated.

[sonofcy]

I would use pro seal before I used SikaFlex. Pro seal can be removed much easier if needed.

What is the recommended maintenance schedule and procedure for all the windows, doors, hatches, etc sealing.
Annual? longer, shorter and what am I looking for.
Procedure is to pull old off, cut with knife, hot air gun, chemical, what???
Thanks

[chuckster57]

depending on your weather conditions I would inspect at least annually. More often if the trailer sees a lot of direct sun. We use plastic tools to remove, used to use denatured alcohol to clean but cant get it in CA anymore. then reseal. We have a supplier that delivers "solvent X" and I don't know whats in it.

[Bill-2020]

My Cougar came new with silicone caulk all over it. I hate the stuff.

I changed a failed marker light and the majority of my time was spent trying to remove the silicone. I used mineral spirits and a razor blade.

I was about to say, and now I don’t, you’ve already said it. Silicone all over the passport, lights trim, etc.

[Steve's 70-5]

Use a urethane caulk. In the construction industry, control joints on builds, urethane caulks are used. You never see silicone on the exterior. A 2 part urethane is better but you will have to mix up a 2.5 gallon pail. Get a one part in a tube. HD sells a clear urethane, can not think of the name.

Cut a small hole on the end of the spout. Depending how big of gap you need to fill will be how fast you move. Get some dish washing soap and water in a cup. Dip your finger in the soap and smooth the joint out. The window guys use the Arsenal window clean when they caulk. Just spray the caulk then wipe. I like the soap in the cup. Sometimes will take a small brush and soap the caulk joint then wipe.

[dkonrai]

Use a urethane caulk. In the construction industry, control joints on builds, urethane caulks are used. You never see silicone on the exterior. A 2 part urethane is better but you will have to mix up a 2.5 gallon pail. Get a one part in a tube. HD sells a clear urethane, can not think of the name.

Cut a small hole on the end of the spout. Depending how big of gap you need to fill will be how fast you move. Get some dish washing soap and water in a cup. Dip your finger in the soap and smooth the joint out. The window guys use the Arsenal window clean when they caulk. Just spray the caulk then wipe. I like the soap in the cup. Sometimes will take a small brush and soap the caulk joint then wipe.Sikaflex? Is that the caulk?

[Steve's 70-5]

Sikaflex has a urethane Read the label. I went to a local RV dealer and they had Sikaflex on the shelf

[Bill-2020]

I was at Home Depot for an unrelated need and came across this. Clear, paintable (therefore no silicone), flexible, interior/exterior... etc. I bought a tube out of pure curiosity. I'll find something the garage, lay down a bead and let it cure up. Then I'll go back to it in a month and see how well it adhered and then go after as if I need to remove it for some reason.

[travelin texans]

I was at Home Depot for an unrelated need and came across this. Clear, paintable (therefore no silicone), flexible, interior/exterior... etc. I bought a tube out of pure curiosity. I'll find something the garage, lay down a bead and let it cure up. Then I'll go back to it in a month and see how well it adhered and then go after as if I need to remove it for some reason.

Lay the piece in direct sunlight, then once it's cured & aged a while spread another bead over it to see if it adheres to itself.
Or better yet head to a RV supply store or website & buy the tried/true stuff and be done.

[Mikendebbie]

I used wet finger method forever and made quite a few messes along the way. A caulking subcontractor told me to get a round end butter knife, then rake/scoop forward into the joint removing/scooping excess material. Don't drag the joint. The round end of the knife seals both sides of the joint surface. They have special tools that do the same thing, but the butter knife works for me. Scoop a short run...wipe off the knife...scoop a short run etc. Generally they do not "drag" the joint - like I was doing with my wet finger. From time to time, when I have tooled the joint with my knife and I think maybe one side did not get a good seal, I will use a wet finger to run over it one more time, but the excess material is gone so I make very little mess if any. The key is to learn to deposit the right amount of material on the joint before tooling. I am no expert at it - but my joints look a little bit better these days.

[JRTJH]

It seems to me that there's a "significant conflict" with some RV owners.

They are satisfied to spend $30 or $40 K for a new RV but are reluctant to spend $8 on a tube of the appropriate sealant to maintain it. They'd rather "save a buck" and buy the $6.98 "tube of stuff" that might work at Home Depot.

For me, it's like having Carlisle Radial HD tires on their trailer and suggesting that "Trailer King tires are on sale at Tire Rack, and they're "just as good, aren't they" ????

This is a situation of "saving literally $1" by buying a "knockoff that ought to work" rather than the recommended, "tried and true" product. To smear on a $40,000 trailer that hopefully will last for a number of years ?????

It might work, it might not. My question is, "Is that worth $1" ??????

[Bill-2020]

Allow me to clarify that post of mine. Because my post is on this forum, it's 100% safe to assume I was intending on using this sealant on my RV. However that is not my intention, nor was it ever. As I stated, I was curious as to it's ability to adhere to a surface of something I would find in my garage (not the RV). What I failed to say was that I have an intent on using this product for something totally unrelated to RVs should it perform as I need it to. Therefore, I opened the door to the assumption that I was going to use it on an expensive investment. I already have all the correct sealants and such that I need for my TT, regardless of what the factory slathered on along the sides and corners (silicone). I do not skimp on needs for the RV, after all I'm the guy that insisted on having my 14" wheels balanced recently when they never come from the manufacturer pre-balanced anyway (all because it's generally thought as not necessary). Which is just doesn't make sense in my mind so I spent the $.

In the end, I shared a product I thought to be of some potential value to others in the wrong forum (is there a forum for "sealants of general use" out in the forum world? Just kidding), my apologies for steering you all down the wrong road.

Danny - I was at the local (national) RV supply store this morning using up the last of a gift card on propane... they had a wonderful big colorful and glossy cardboard display of "FlexSeal" full of all the different versions they make, right next to the Dicor sealants. Now that tells us all they don't care what you buy for your RV, just buy some and it's close to being irresponsible as RV supply store to even offer it. ... oh geeze maybe they use it in the service bay?!! Wouldn't surprise me.

John - I can agree with your point of view. I treat my $20K RV as if it were my only available roof to be over my head. And if I don't quit spending so much (on it), then it may very well be my only roof to live under.

[Frank G]

Below is the Technical Data Sheet for the DAP ultra clear. It appears to be a very viable product for RV use.

What is Keystone using to seal up there products? It appears to be a Silicone product. I have been reworking the joints, fore and aft, where the siding joint sealant is over / under the roof sealant. No, the factory roof sealant did not stick to the clear factory sealant. This brings up another question. If Keystone is using a silicone product, how do they prep for a full factory paint option?

https://www.dap.com/media/187346/ultraclear-tdb-101-fl-oz-final.pdf

[Bill-2020]

Frank - greetings from due east of you, almost to the coast and near the cape. I suspect the rigs that get a full body paint are nowhere near silicone before paint or keystone risks cross contamination issues. I would hope. Our TT has silicone on every clearance light, tail light and at the top of every cargo door. What’s also interesting is that the leading edge of the forward awning bracket that’s attached to the wall from top to bottom has a bead of silicone all the way down it, but the rear bracket has nothing. Neither of them have any on the trailing edge. Thanks for the data sheet by the way.

[JRTJH]

First, let me be clear, I'm a DAP fan and use their products around the house on a number of projects. That said, here are two "direct quotes" from the DAP UltraClear Tech Data Sheet:

"ADHERES TO: Asphalt, Wood, Fiber Cement, Aluminum, Vinyl, Metal, Glass, Fiberglass, Plexiglas®, Lexan®, PVC, Most Plastics, ABS, Formica®, Ceramic, Concrete, Brick, Tile, Stone, Stucco"

"3. Do not use on polystyrene products or plastics"

Considering the amount of "plastics" (wheelwells, access doors/ports, moldings, DARCO underliner, Coroplast, etc), is DAP suitable to use "indiscriminately" on an RV, or is it "best reserved for those few places where it isn't used on polystyrene or plastics" ???

I'm not suggesting that it "can't be used on an RV" Rather, I'm using the product literature that says it's not suitable for many parts of an RV.

We've got a recent post where a member used "blue Loctite" to hold screws on his wheelwell skirts, to go back the next day and found that the locktite had melted holes at every location where it was applied to the fender skirt.

[Tdesrosiers]

While we are on the topic, I noticed that the windows were sealed with what looks like butyl tape, while everything else is presumably silicone. Anyone know why they use that on the windows?

[JRTJH]

Butyl putty tape or "cheaper for the manufacturer" clay putty tape is the "industry standard sealant" used for window installation on the assembly line. That said, some (not all) frameless windows come with a "closed cell foam seal strip" around the perimeter of the window and don't require additional sealant. The "shortcut" for reinstallation of those windows seems, in many RV shops, to cut the foam away and use butyl (or clay) putty tape to reinstall all windows, even frameless ones.

That said, many RV manufacturers use Sikaflex or a similar urethane based sealant to "add another seal layer" around many/all of the attachments to the trailer sidewalls. Things like access doors, vents, water/electric hatches, awning rails, windows and lights such as tail, license plate and clearance lights are examples of where Sikaflex is used. Some people might confuse this with a silicone sealant, and I'd suppose there are some manufacturers who might even use a silicone sealant. Keystone doesn't, as far as I know, but I've certainly not seen anywhere even close to all of the trailers they've produced, so I'm speaking only of the trailers I've actually seen and none of them have silicone on them, except for what was put there by the owner.

[Tdesrosiers]

That’s good info. So how long does that putty last? It’s sandwiched between the frame and window, would you just seal over it?

[Bill-2020]

Some people might confuse this with a silicone sealant, and I'd suppose there are some manufacturers who might even use a silicone sealant. Keystone doesn't, as far as I know, but I've certainly not seen anywhere even close to all of the trailers they've produced, so I'm speaking only of the trailers I've actually seen and none of them have silicone on them, except for what was put there by the owner.

John, you've just enlightened me. I wasn't aware that Sikaflex was clear (admittedly and it's obvious now that I have yet to investigate this brand). My Jaco had a white and black sealant all around it. The Keystone has clear everywhere. Upon having to replace one lower front marker light, I had to work hard at removing that sealant. My assumption was that it's silicone. I'm very happy (ecstatic really) to hear this. Thanks for details.

[JRTJH]

All of the sealed runs on my Cougar are Sikaflex. It's white, (check around your tail lights and running lights if you have a white trailer exterior). To my knowledge, Sikaflex doesn't market a clear urethane sealant. They do market Sikasil clear. It is a silicone based sealant and I'd avoid it for that reason.

DAP Ultra Clear likely could be used in many applications on an RV. The "rub" (at least for me) is their recommendation that it not be used on plastics, although in the paragraph above that statement, they contradict that recommendation by stating that the product adheres to "lexan, Plexiglas, PVC and many plastics" then they say, "Avoid use on polystyrene and plastics" Makes one wonder if it adheres, and they say don't use it, then it must be because it can "melt plastic" ??? Which plastic does it damage? or is there another reason not to use it on plastic ???

On both of my Keystone trailers, I've never seen "clear sealant". It's always been white sealant, in a "very thin bead" around all the doors, windows, along the J-wrap molding, and along all the overhang moldings (on the front of fifth wheels).

[skids]

On both of my Keystone trailers, I've never seen "clear sealant". It's always been white sealant, in a "very thin bead" around all the doors, windows, along the J-wrap molding, and along all the overhang moldings (on the front of fifth wheels).

I have lots of clear sealant on my 2019 Bullet 248RKS. The stuff around the lenses seems to be silicon based. The vertical beads are clear and not hard.

[Bill-2020]

I agree with Skids, I have the same. John, obviously your Cougar is in a different class than some of the smaller TTs Keystone puts out, and it seems that exterior sealants is one of the products that is different. I have “thick” beads of smoothed-down clear sealant that looks and feels (and removes) like silicone. The only place there is none is the power inlet. That’s a Furrion product and it has a foam seal behind it (much like the outdoor outlet foam seals that don’t last as you mentioned earlier). I have access to a product that removes wet and cures silicone. DSR-5. I have not read up on it yet, so I don’t know what impact it has on plastics, paint or fiberglass/filon or whatever the sides on my Passport are exactly. It’s not cheap, we pay about $70 a gallon for it. I’ll leave what’s intact now and repair what needs it later.

[JRTJH]

I have lots of clear sealant on my 2019 Bullet 248RKS. The stuff around the lenses seems to be silicon based. The vertical beads are clear and not hard.

Many people (maybe even most people) find it difficult to identify cured sealant on any surface. It's not easy to tell whether it's Sikaflex or Silicone after it's been sitting on an RV for a couple of years.

Obviously, I'm not there so I can't see or confirm what might be on your Bullet. You might want to check with your dealership service manager the next time you have the trailer at his location. Point to a place where you would like to have the sealant type identified and ask him, "What kind of sealant is this?" You might also want to email Keystone with your trailer model/VIN and ask them, "What kind of sealant was used at the factory to seal <name the component> on my trailer?"

Keystone's email customer service form can be found here: https://www.keystonerv.com/owners/contact-us/

It's not productive to speculate on an internet forum (without benefit of actually seeing the sealant) whether you, the factory, the dealership or an outside RV service department may or may not have applied "silicone" to your RV. If you can't identify the product that's applied, find someone who can, or at best, apply something over it and see if it sticks or rubs off after it's cured.

[Bill-2020]

Many people (maybe even most people) find it difficult to identify cured sealant on any surface. It's not easy to tell whether it's Sikaflex or Silicone after it's been sitting on an RV for a couple of years.

Obviously, I'm not there so I can't see or confirm what might be on your Bullet. You might want to check with your dealership service manager the next time you have the trailer at his location. Point to a place where you would like to have the sealant type identified and ask him, "What kind of sealant is this?" You might also want to email Keystone with your trailer model/VIN and ask them, "What kind of sealant was used at the factory to seal <name the component> on my trailer?"

Keystone's email customer service form can be found here: https://www.keystonerv.com/owners/contact-us/

It's not productive to speculate on an internet forum (without benefit of actually seeing the sealant) whether you, the factory, the dealership or an outside RV service department may or may not have applied "silicone" to your RV. If you can't identify the product that's applied, find someone who can, or at best, apply something over it and see if it sticks or rubs off after it's cured.

John, I called Keystone to discuss this (and the incorrect 50amp decal) on Wednesday I believe it was. The lady on the other end of the phone couldn't tell me what type of clear sealant was used. Maybe an email would be more productive.

Anyway, all of the areas/access points that are sealed, and that are plastic (refrigerator vent, lights,cable/sat, black tank flush, water hookups, corner moldings, outside shower, etc.) have all exhibited a problem with the thin sealant edges pulling away from the plastic. It's not adhering to the plastic, but it is adhering to the sidewalls. Where it's peeling away, it only grows with time. And this is a new (mfg Sept 2019) TT.

I needed to reseal a small area on the refrigerator access frame before the rains came later that evening and before leaving town for a non-trailer trip. The top-right corner had pulled away from the sidewall leaving a small gap for water to get into. Knowing that I will have to clean it off later (and that I have access to DSR-5 that will remove it) I used what I had available at the time, silicone (not the new DAP). A week or so later, it too is showing where the thin edges of the smoothed down bead is peeling back cleanly off the plastic if disturbed (soft brush or microfiber hand washing), just like the other areas are.

I suspect in the case of the Passport (a lower-end Keystone), they are using a silicone based product. I may go put an eyeball on a Bullet as CW just to see what those have. So now I have the daunting task ahead of me to remove all of the silicone from each area, one-by-one, and replace it with Sikaflex (white I guess, since my walls are white but the plastics are all black).

Maybe next time I buy a Cougar instead... Oh, that means I'd have to get a bigger truck. Dang the luck!!

[sourdough]

John, I called Keystone to discuss this (and the incorrect 50amp decal) on Wednesday I believe it was. The lady on the other end of the phone couldn't tell me what type of clear sealant was used. Maybe an email would be more productive.

Anyway, all of the areas/access points that are sealed, and that are plastic (refrigerator vent, lights,cable/sat, black tank flush, water hookups, corner moldings, outside shower, etc.) have all exhibited a problem with the thin sealant edges pulling away from the plastic. It's not adhering to the plastic, but it is adhering to the sidewalls. Where it's peeling away, it only grows with time. And this is a new (mfg Sept 2019) TT.

I needed to reseal a small area on the refrigerator access frame before the rains came later that evening and before leaving town for a non-trailer trip. The top-right corner had pulled away from the sidewall leaving a small gap for water to get into. Knowing that I will have to clean it off later (and that I have access to DSR-5 that will remove it) I used what I had available at the time, silicone (not the new DAP). A week or so later, it too is showing where the thin edges of the smoothed down bead is peeling back cleanly off the plastic if disturbed (soft brush or microfiber hand washing), just like the other areas are.

I suspect in the case of the Passport (a lower-end Keystone), they are using a silicone based product. I may go put an eyeball on a Bullet as CW just to see what those have. So now I have the daunting task ahead of me to remove all of the silicone from each area, one-by-one, and replace it with Sikaflex (white I guess, since my walls are white but the plastics are all black).

Maybe next time I buy a Cougar instead... Oh, that means I'd have to get a bigger truck. Dang the luck!!


Oh Bill! And the dreaded upgrade, bigger, new truck cycle begins....:lol:

[busterbrown]

John, I called Keystone to discuss this (and the incorrect 50amp decal) on Wednesday I believe it was. The lady on the other end of the phone couldn't tell me what type of clear sealant was used. Maybe an email would be more productive.

Anyway, all of the areas/access points that are sealed, and that are plastic (refrigerator vent, lights,cable/sat, black tank flush, water hookups, corner moldings, outside shower, etc.) have all exhibited a problem with the thin sealant edges pulling away from the plastic. It's not adhering to the plastic, but it is adhering to the sidewalls. Where it's peeling away, it only grows with time. And this is a new (mfg Sept 2019) TT.

I needed to reseal a small area on the refrigerator access frame before the rains came later that evening and before leaving town for a non-trailer trip. The top-right corner had pulled away from the sidewall leaving a small gap for water to get into. Knowing that I will have to clean it off later (and that I have access to DSR-5 that will remove it) I used what I had available at the time, silicone (not the new DAP). A week or so later, it too is showing where the thin edges of the smoothed down bead is peeling back cleanly off the plastic if disturbed (soft brush or microfiber hand washing), just like the other areas are.

I suspect in the case of the Passport (a lower-end Keystone), they are using a silicone based product. I may go put an eyeball on a Bullet as CW just to see what those have. So now I have the daunting task ahead of me to remove all of the silicone from each area, one-by-one, and replace it with Sikaflex (white I guess, since my walls are white but the plastics are all black).

Maybe next time I buy a Cougar instead... Oh, that means I'd have to get a bigger truck. Dang the luck!!

I just spent the past 2 days scraping, wiping, applying mineral spirits, and removing the factory sealant around most of the vertical wall components; I scraped, wiped, and applied more mineral spirits; and then scraped, wiped, and applied even more mineral spirits.

After about 10 hours, all the old sealant was removed and I applied a more appropriate product around all the tail lights, marker lights, fridge access panel, electrical outlets, power cord hatch, pass through storage doors, and front corner vertical seams. Silicone was most definitely what I removed. The skirting trim sealant was in good shape and doesn't resemble the other product I removed. I'm convinced the factory used a higher quality sealant on where the fiberglass walls mate with the skirting.

The factory's silicone sealant barely survived 4 years as much of it was shrinking and lost its adhesion. What I was pleasantly surprised to see was butyl tape around the power outlets and inside the light fixtures. I removed all the fixtures in order to get a completely clean surface. None of the fixture screws were missing or stripped. This was the first time I completed an "inch by inch" vertical sealant check on the coach and I am happy with quality of the assembly. I am not, however, happy with the choice of factory sealants. Proflex is such a superior product.

[Bill-2020]

Interesting. Proflex is a Sherwin-Williams company, in Elkhart, IN. I’ve never seen it on TV at 2am either, so it has to be good. :D

[jhplak325]

I agree with Skids, I have the same. John, obviously your Cougar is in a different class than some of the smaller TTs Keystone puts out, and it seems that exterior sealants is one of the products that is different. I have “thick” beads of smoothed-down clear sealant that looks and feels (and removes) like silicone. The only place there is none is the power inlet. That’s a Furrion product and it has a foam seal behind it (much like the outdoor outlet foam seals that don’t last as you mentioned earlier). I have access to a product that removes wet and cures silicone. DSR-5. I have not read up on it yet, so I don’t know what impact it has on plastics, paint or fiberglass/filon or whatever the sides on my Passport are exactly. It’s not cheap, we pay about $70 a gallon for it. I’ll leave what’s intact now and repair what needs it later.

I have a 2019 Cougar 34TBS that was built November 2018 and has clear sealant everywhere. So it isn’t just the smaller trailers using the clear sealant.

During PDI, noticed some sealant missing and the dealer had taken care of that, I had forgot to ask at that time wha three used and will find out in about a month when it goes in for some minor warranty items.

[skids]

I got some Geocel ProflexRV (I think) that is clear sealant. I applied it around a side marker lens several days ago and it adheared well. I will be using that stuff on the sider when they need it. The roof will get the white Dicor sealant as usual.