I think we messed up....

[LynchMom]

New here, first post :wave:
We own a 2015 Cougar 31SQB
Dry Weight 7213
Payload 1787
GVWR 9000
Hubby traded our previous truck for a 2019 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L V8 4WD CrewMax
Tow capacity 9800
GVWR 7,200
Payload 1560
GCWR 16,000
I’m afraid our calculations were incorrect as far as what it can tow. I’ve spent the last 2 hours researching online only to be more confused than before I started. My best estimate, we’re over by at least 1000lbs. We’re not leaving the driveway until we can get confirmation. Any input is welcomed and appreciated!! :confused:

[flybouy]

Welcome to forum.

With your trailer you are looking at a hitch tongue weight at least 1,000 lbs. In my opinion (look at my sig) that much trailer is 3/4 ton truck territory. Look at the sticker on the truck door (yellow) that lists payload. Take that number and subtract the weight of everything in the truck not installed at the factory ie. passengers, hitch receiver and sway bars, tools, ice chest, firewood in the bed, etc. What you have remaining is the load capacity left for the trailer tongue. I'm guessing you will end up with insufficient payload.

Probably not what you want to hear but many of use have BTDT.

[LynchMom]

Thanks for the welcome and info flybouy. I appreciate you taking time to explain. You’re right, not the news I was hoping for, but better safe than sorry!

If anyone is in the market for a Cougar XLite 31SQB I know where you can find one :banghead:

[flybouy]

I fully expect some owners of Tundras to chime in and say I'm full of it and they have been towing a cement mixer hitched to an 18 wheeler for 30 years with out a problem. The numbers don't lie. Your doing the right thing by investigating and researching for the truth.

[meaz93*]

I've only towed with 1/2 ton trucks....and all I can say is payload is really the deciding factor. You take the trailer tongue weight subtract that plus truck cargo & passengers from your trucks payload rating.
You should find the manufacturer's manual with your year trucks tow chart specifications.
You need a good weight distribution hitch with sway control. Truck needs tow rated LT's and not passenger rated tires-IMO
A Tundra is a very capable truck, but if the trailer is overloaded can put a tremendous amount of strain on the the truck brakes, driveline, and suspension.
You need to be comfortable and safe while towing.
Their are an endless amount of aftermarket enhancing performance parts to help your truck be more stable while towing; aka rear air bags, rear sway bar, E rated truck tires etc..
Let us know how it works out.27277

[rhagfo]

I fully expect some owners of Tundras to chime in and say I'm full of it and they have been towing a cement mixer hitched to an 18 wheeler for 30 years with out a problem. The numbers don't lie. Your doing the right thing by investigating and researching for the truth.

Flybouy, you are so right, see many Tundras pulling 5ers come into the parks. some smaller lighter, some not so much, wondering how they feeling when towing.

[Big 417]

This has been beat to death on more than 1 forum. Yes it can, but no you shouldn't.

Yes theres lots of goodies to make your truck feel like it can handle the weight. But it's mostly just stuff to take the weight. It does nothing for the brakes, it does nothing in the event of a "situation*, where that heavier than your truck, trailer is now in control. You need a good solid heavy tow vehicle. That will help when the trailer wants to rag doll your truck like a dog does a chew toy.

And then there's the whole liability can of worms.

[LynchMom]

It only took a few expert opinions to convince me that it’s not worth the risk!
Appreciate your responses!!

[flybouy]

Flybouy, you are so right, see many Tundras pulling 5ers come into the parks. some smaller lighter, some not so much, wondering how they feeling when towing.

I'm guessing the owners would tell you "they don't even know it's back there".:whistling:

[Gary R.]

Hi and welcome aboard!

You are very smart to be concerned about towing that size trailer with a Tundra.

The posters above have provided sound advice to help sort it out.

Good luck to you and your DH in deciding what to do.

Take care,

Gary

[notanlines]

LynchMom, first let's get one thing out in the open. Most members here are owners of the big three, and more than half won't say many good things about Toyotas or Nissans. I count myself in with the naysayers. Fact not fiction.
Everything that I read previously is pretty much on the money. Before you throw the baby out with the bathwater do us all a favor. Hitch up the RV with the weight distribution hitch that you already have and head to your local CAT scale. Within reason, have the same number of passengers and some equipment/gear like you would normally have travelling. Don't have water in the tank in the RV and no liquids in the black/grey tanks.
Drive on the scale and put your steer (front truck axle) on the first concrete pad, your drive (rear truck axle) on the second pad, and your trailer axles on the third pad. Go inside, pay, and ask for your ticket. Then tell the attendant you will be back for a reweigh. Drop the RV and come back and weigh just the front axle and the rear axle of the truck. (Pad 1 and ad 2) Go back inside, pay the attendant, and go home. CAT will do all this for you for the paltry sum of $14.00.
Post a picture of the yellow sticker from the door post AND a picture of both weigh tickets. We will then decide as a group how your family should spend your next $40,000.:D NO, on a serious note, we will then tell you precisely how much overweight you are and if there is hope.
If you've never been through the CAT scale this will be little adventure. And you'll find out that it is easy as pie.
At least three in your area: https://catscale.com/cat-scale-locator/?postalcode=&city=Winston+Salem&state=NC&miles=2&cmdSearch=

[flybouy]

Cat scales are certified scales located at many truck stops. Here's a link to their locations.
https://catscale.com/cat-scale-locator/?gclid=CjwKCAjwte71BRBCEiwAU_V9h_gbcLooA5KAQbpcsOy cXl_jhHI5Nb-xOtBa541mMCxP_ZMsKKy_ghoCDmcQAvD_BwE

[Logan X]

A lot of people come on to the forum seeking affirmation for their denial, and rationalization, about not having enough truck to tow their trailer.

My hat is off to you for coming here with an open mind and seeking information rather than affirmation. Good for you!

As the others have said, you will probably be over on your payload capacity. I think Jim’s suggestion to go to a scale and see what the numbers actually are is a fantastic idea.

Keep us posted, we are here to help.

[sourdough]

A lot of people come on to the forum seeking affirmation for their denial, and rationalization, about not having enough truck to tow their trailer.

My hat is off to you for coming here with an open mind and seeking information rather than affirmation. Good for you!

As the others have said, you will probably be over on your payload capacity. I think Jim’s suggestion to go to a scale and see what the numbers actually are is a fantastic idea.

Keep us posted, we are here to help.


Logan is right; congrats coming to find information with an open mind - pretty unusual....and refreshing. I think Jim is also right. I'm not a fan of a Toyota for a tow vehicle but I do drive their SUVs and know they make a good vehicle for driving.....not so much towing.

If you can take it to a scale do so with the same mindset you have now; do yourselves a favor and fill that truck and trailer with everything you think you will ever need....EVER, because you will eventually have it. People, animals, food, bbq pits (I have 3 and now a new Blackstone griddle), folding tables, spare LP tanks, vacuum, compressors, bottle jacks, sewer equipment, fresh water equipment/filter, blender, food processor, pressure cooker, instant pot, toaster, coffee pot, pots/pans...and on and on and on.

At the end of the day I think you will find that you will run short on payload and be overweight. A little or a lot that's not where you want to be. Good luck in your efforts. It seems only wise to do that before you get rid of the trailer without actually knowing where you stand.

[flybouy]

I second Logan X remarks. Bear in mind that if you take it to the scales and find that your just under or close don't get a false sense of security. A 1,500 lb load of sand in the bed of the truck is not the same as a 1,500 lb tongue weight that's attached to a 35' high cg, high profile box. While 1,500 lbs is 1,500 lbs, the BIG difference is in how the "towing capacity" is calculated. In that column, 9,000 lbs of a low cg, low wind resistance of say towing a flat bed trailer with a load of bricks on it that's 20' long is not equal to a high wind resistance 35' long slab sided sail.
BTDTGT

[travelin texans]

This has been beat to death on more than 1 forum. Yes it can, but no you shouldn't.

Yes theres lots of goodies to make your truck feel like it can handle the weight. But it's mostly just stuff to take the weight. It does nothing for the brakes, it does nothing in the event of a "situation*, where that heavier than your truck, trailer is now in control. You need a good solid heavy tow vehicle. That will help when the trailer wants to rag doll your truck like a dog does a chew toy.

And then there's the whole liability can of worms.

Unfortunately what newbies don't know is none of those goodies add anything to the trucks payload, actually do the opposite, everything added to your truck that didn't come from the factory are deducted from the payload.

[LynchMom]

;)LynchMom, first let's get one thing out in the open. Most members here are owners of the big three, and more than half won't say many good things about Toyotas or Nissans. I count myself in with the naysayers. Fact not fiction.
Everything that I read previously is pretty much on the money. Before you throw the baby out with the bathwater do us all a favor. Hitch up the RV with the weight distribution hitch that you already have and head to your local CAT scale. Within reason, have the same number of passengers and some equipment/gear like you would normally have travelling. Don't have water in the tank in the RV and no liquids in the black/grey tanks.
Drive on the scale and put your steer (front truck axle) on the first concrete pad, your drive (rear truck axle) on the second pad, and your trailer axles on the third pad. Go inside, pay, and ask for your ticket. Then tell the attendant you will be back for a reweigh. Drop the RV and come back and weigh just the front axle and the rear axle of the truck. (Pad 1 and ad 2) Go back inside, pay the attendant, and go home. CAT will do all this for you for the paltry sum of $14.00.
Post a picture of the yellow sticker from the door post AND a picture of both weigh tickets. We will then decide as a group how your family should spend your next $40,000.:D NO, on a serious note, we will then tell you precisely how much overweight you are and if there is hope.
If you've never been through the CAT scale this will be little adventure. And you'll find out that it is easy as pie.
At least three in your area: https://catscale.com/cat-scale-locator/?postalcode=&city=Winston+Salem&state=NC&miles=2&cmdSearch=
Is it a coincidence that I JUST researched Cat Scales and found one near us??
Sounds like a solid plan!
We will do that this weekend.
I feel so fortunate to have all these great minds converging to help us out!
((Does this mean I shouldn’t get my hopes up about that Class C I’ve been eyeballing??)) ;)

[meaz93*]

C Class is another option if that's what catches your fancy, but for me I would need a vehicle separate to explore; run errands, hit a convience store, etc..
Meaning I would need to pull a small vehicle behind the C Class-lol
Now you have to be sure that your new rig can tow that additional weight....typically limited to 3-5k max.
Some OP's don't need an additional form of transportation with a C Class....they will unhook run errands and come back to their campsite.
Something to think about!27304

[sourdough]

;)
Is it a coincidence that I JUST researched Cat Scales and found one near us??
Sounds like a solid plan!
We will do that this weekend.
I feel so fortunate to have all these great minds converging to help us out!
((Does this mean I shouldn’t get my hopes up about that Class C I’ve been eyeballing??)) ;)


Depending on your style of camping I would think long and hard about the realities of camping (and traveling) with a C class camper. They sound appealing up front but the reality is much different in my experience, hence the truck and 5th wheel.

[travelin texans]

Depending on your style of camping I would think long and hard about the realities of camping (and traveling) with a C class camper. They sound appealing up front but the reality is much different in my experience, hence the truck and 5th wheel.

I agree totally!
You currently have a 35'+/- travel trailer which probably feels very roomy, that same length of class C will seem very cramped as you have lost the use of the front 6'+ except when driving it, along with most of the outside storage.
Then you will have to unhook to go grocery shopping or sightseeing or you'll need a toad, more expense, whether dolly towed, trailer towed or finding one that's able to be towed 4 down, none of which can be backed up more than about a foot without unhooking.
In your case you'd be better off financially keeping your TT & finding/trading for a good used truck that's capable of handling what you have.
Just my .02 cents!

[flybouy]

Agreed on the Class C comments. We looked at them at some shows and they would have been a serious downsize for a lot more money, at least in our situation as owners of trucks it would mean buying a toad.

Most Class C and low end Class A coaches are gasoline powered and get about 6 m.p.g. If you have a toad you have to disconnect before backing into a site. Also, depending on your state the license, taxes, and inspections may differ as it's motorized.

Didn't intend to ramble on but as with any choice or decision there are many points to ponder.

[LynchMom]

Gosh, all great insight! I tend to be a ‘glass 1/2 full’ kinda gal so hearing the not so pretty is sometimes what I need. Our youngest is 15 so we probably only have another year or so of him traveling with us. But the 3 grandkids will still join us from time to time. So losing space right now wouldn’t be a good idea. Mr LynchMom wants to take me out west when he retires but that’s quite a ways away. Plenty of time to actually want or need to downsize.
Lots to consider for sure! Will keep y’all posted!

[flybouy]

I for one, and there are several others here I believe, that are a "let's measure the glass carefully" kind of people. My DW of 40 years is a very optimistic, trusting nurturing type (she was a NICU nurse) so the for the 45 + years of living with Yang I'm the Ying (the electro mechanical construction engineer).

When looking at these types of considerations The DW will get starry eyed and see a romantic trip. She is a salesman's dream. I see it with the "vision into the future" as the one setting it up and breaking it down, the one driving it, maintaining it, etc. I am the salesman's worst nightmare. We work very well together and keep each other balanced.

I take a ledger approach. Positive points on side and negative on the other. If one side far outweighs the other I tend to lean that direction. So, long way to get here but to me, many people, especially the folks looking at purchasing typically have the
"positives" entrenched and do not need a lot of encouragement. The "bling", the eluring brochures, and the salesman provide more than sufficient encouragement. So while it may seem negative I see it more as a "realistic" perspective that's observational/experienced based.

[Ken / Claudia]

Hats off for asking questions, both truck and trailer are nice vehicles. In the end likely not made for each other.
I repeat this on everyone of these type posts, my trailer has a 920lb tongue wt. when checked about the 1st week after purchase. Loaded for 2 people for 3 days, full propane and fresh water. Factory said it was 560 lbs.
Despite what others say, I always know it's behind me. I check the mirrors every few minutes or more just to be safe. I may not feel it being towed but I always know it's there. Winds were so bad last week it blew the vinyl strip covering 1 of the door frame screws out of the track and dragging on the roadway. The other was partly pulled out.

[LynchMom]

I for one, and there are several others here I believe, that are a "let's measure the glass carefully" kind of people. My DW of 40 years is a very optimistic, trusting nurturing type (she was a NICU nurse) so the for the 45 + years of living with Yang I'm the Ying (the electro mechanical construction engineer).

When looking at these types of considerations The DW will get starry eyed and see a romantic trip. She is a salesman's dream. I see it with the "vision into the future" as the one setting it up and breaking it down, the one driving it, maintaining it, etc. I am the salesman's worst nightmare. We work very well together and keep each other balanced.

I take a ledger approach. Positive points on side and negative on the other. If one side far outweighs the other I tend to lean that direction. So, long way to get here but to me, many people, especially the folks looking at purchasing typically have the
"positives" entrenched and do not need a lot of encouragement. The "bling", the eluring brochures, and the salesman provide more than sufficient encouragement. So while it may seem negative I see it more as a "realistic" perspective that's observational/experienced based.
I love the way you think. You and your DW sound a lot like us. We balance. Too bad we’re on opposite coasts. I think we’d have great conversations around the campfire :thumbsup:

[flybouy]

I love the way you think. You and your DW sound a lot like us. We balance. Too bad we’re on opposite coasts. I think we’d have great conversations around the campfire :thumbsup:

You list your location as North Carolina. If that's where you currently are than we are than we are 2 states "up the coast".:)

[LynchMom]

Oh my bad flybouy! I thought you were in OR. Must’ve been looking at another poster. If you’re ever down our way let me know! We mostly visit CGs in NC/SC.

[rhagfo]

New here, first post :wave:
We own a 2015 Cougar 31SQB
Dry Weight 7213
Payload 1787
GVWR 9000
Hubby traded our previous truck for a 2019 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L V8 4WD CrewMax
Tow capacity 9800
GVWR 7,200
Payload 1560
GCWR 16,000
I’m afraid our calculations were incorrect as far as what it can tow. I’ve spent the last 2 hours researching online only to be more confused than before I started. My best estimate, we’re over by at least 1000lbs. We’re not leaving the driveway until we can get confirmation. Any input is welcomed and appreciated!! :confused:

Well lots of good advice and you seem to be listening to it. So I have a couple questions;
1. What was your TV before you got the Tundra?

2. Which do you like the most, the Tundra or trailer?

My guess is that loaded for a week of camping you will add about 1,000# to the 5er, putting the GVW at about 8,200#. Then a 20% pin would be 1,640#. My guess the scales will put you over GVWR by about 600#, still not good.
You are either looking at 3/4 ton gas engine from the big three., or going to a TT trailer.

[flybouy]

Russ the OP's camper is a travel trailer and not a fifth wheel.

[LynchMom]

Well lots of good advice and you seem to be listening to it. So I have a couple questions;
1. What was your TV before you got the Tundra?

2. Which do you like the most, the Tundra or trailer?

My guess is that loaded for a week of camping you will add about 1,000# to the 5er, putting the GVW at about 8,200#. Then a 20% pin would be 1,640#. My guess the scales will put you over GVWR by about 600#, still not good.
You are either looking at 3/4 ton gas engine from the big three., or going to a TT trailer.
1. Previous was a 2012 F150 3.5 V6
2. The trailer. The truck is a lease, so there’s that....sigh

[travelin texans]

1. Previous was a 2012 F150 3.5 V6
2. The trailer. The truck is a lease, so there’s that....sigh

The Tundra is a lease?
If so I'd guess they wouldn't be real thrilled knowing you're towing 1000# overloaded with their truck.
This is why I would never buy a used lease or rental vehicle.

[wiredgeorge]

The Tundra is a lease?
If so I'd guess they wouldn't be real thrilled knowing you're towing 1000# overloaded with their truck.
This is why I would never buy a used lease or rental vehicle.

That was helpfu Danny! :horse: A possibility... I bought my 2006 F350 for a bit under $7K 140K miles and it is a diesel. Have put a few thousand bucks in it to make all the weak and problem areas fixed; did some myself and paid a pro to do others. I have less than $10K in the truck and use it pretty much to only drag my fifthwheel with an occasional run to the hardware. Since your Tundra is part of the family till the lease expires, perhaps a dedicated tow vehicle might make sense. Not sure about your finances but my truck was within my finances and you will take a beating with depreciation if you sell your camper.

[sonofcy]

New here, first post :wave:
We own a 2015 Cougar 31SQB
Dry Weight 7213
Payload 1787
GVWR 9000
Hubby traded our previous truck for a 2019 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L V8 4WD CrewMax
Tow capacity 9800
GVWR 7,200
Payload 1560
GCWR 16,000
I’m afraid our calculations were incorrect as far as what it can tow. I’ve spent the last 2 hours researching online only to be more confused than before I started. My best estimate, we’re over by at least 1000lbs. We’re not leaving the driveway until we can get confirmation. Any input is welcomed and appreciated!! :confused:

Using your numbers and simple math.
GCWR is 16,000, so the calculation is subtract the truck at 7,200 leaving 8,800 allowed for the trailer. Your truck is too small, you need a 3/4 ton.

2nd is the payload. Look at the yellow sticker on the driver side door post, it will NOT be the advertised 1,560. Even if it is though, the math is 1,560 minus (15% of 9,000) leaves 210lbs for you, your wife, EVERYTHING you put in/on the truck since it left the factory including the hitch, tools, anything placed in the bed of the truck. It is almost guaranteed you are over there too. You need a 3/4 ton gasser since a diesel will leave you where you started due to increased weight of diesel. If you want a diesel for the extra pulling power, then you need a 1 ton diesel.

[bbells]

I had a 2016 Tundra and now have a 2020 Both 5.7l, 10,000+ tow capacity, 1850 payload. My truck pulled a lighter trailer fine (4600 pound dry). I only noticed it in the the wind. But the crewmax has a lower tow capacity. I have owned every brand truck out there and in IMHO, the Toyota is the only one worth keeping. I got sick of repairs, breakdowns, computer problems, spark plug problems, check engine lights, etc., on all the other brands. Simply sell the trailer and get something smaller or a 5th wheel.

[CaptnJohn]

I’m a fan of your truck as a grocery getter but would never own 1 as I tow. I’d never consider towing with any TOYota.

[LynchMom]

HUGE THANKS for all the replies! We’ve decided to sell/trade the trailer. We listed it yesterday and have found a few that are well under our towing capacity. So glad I came here for advice. Sad that we’re missing our Memorial Day weekend trip but it just wasn’t worth the risk.

[gkainz]

I’m a fan of your truck as a grocery getter but would never own 1 as I tow. I’d never consider towing with any TOYota.

What? Not even the space shuttle? Are you telling me that advertisements place fast and loose with reality???? Wait a minute while I try to find my shocked face. :D

[bbells]

I’m a fan of your truck as a grocery getter but would never own 1 as I tow. I’d never consider towing with any TOYota.

You need to give reasons why you wouldn't get a Toyota, which is in fact the last American made truck (santa fe), and has the highest reliability rating of any truck, and, has a higher payload rating than other trucks of its size - 1850 pounds. FYI: Most Ford and Chev trucks are made in Brazil, Mexico and Canada. Do you have a problem with giving American workers jobs? Or is there some other reason? I have owned them all, and to be perfectly honest, it appears only people who haven't owned a better truck and think of the usual problems as normal feel the way you do. Life time reliability is meaningful. Any pos can make it 3 years without problems. Well, almost any. My Fords and Chevys never did.

[sourdough]

Getting into "my xxxx is better than your xxxx" is a wasted conversation generally.

That said, although Toyota employs American workers, as do the Big 3, the corporate profits for Toyota go to Toyota, Aichi, Japan - not Michigan etc.

[Roscommon48]

big 417 said it all. yes you can pull it but you shouldn't

[MikeRP]

I tend to think a little differently about these things. Like one of the above said, I would know your weights. So get it loaded like you are going camping and weight it.

You are selling your camper and you maybe 500-600 lbs below your GVWR on the one you have now. All these calculations were based on GVWR, but will you really load your camper to GVWR?

I recommend the equalizer hitch. It will help get weight off the rear of the truck onto the front axle.

Once you go to the CAT scales and get the actual weights. There maybe some changes if you are too heavy on the front for the truck. You might move heavy stuff to the rear of the camper and maybe, depending upon fresh water tank location, adding fresh water could lower weight on the hitch.

But like others said you want to stay at or above slightly above 10% of the trailer weight on the hitch.

You can add air bags and E rates tires to stiffen up the rear end of the truck if needed.

Now if you just want a new camper, then go get it. But if you like the old one, I think you will be able to make it work and be safe. Like take out items you haven’t used in a year. Work on your front to rear load balance. The Toyota is a capable truck. I wouldn’t sell your camper quite yet if you like it.

[markjamestx]

I have the same Tundra, 2014 model Platinum, and the tow capacity is 10,600. We pull a 2017 Bullet Premier 31BKPR, 6800/8700. Added air bags, but only keep 5-10 lbs of pressure and the truck is level with the trailer. Loaded out for a 5 week out west trip, across the scales the TT weighed out 7700#. Out WD Hitch is a Fastway3 1000 Trunion square bar. We have pulled this camper through 33 States and 27,000 miles from California to New York and in the Montana mountains without one single problem. Also, we live in Arkansas and we camp at a lot of Ozark mountain State Parks, I mean lots of 14% grades up and down.

[buzzcop63]

You need to give reasons why you wouldn't get a Toyota, which is in fact the last American made truck (santa fe), and has the highest reliability rating of any truck, and, has a higher payload rating than other trucks of its size - 1850 pounds. FYI: Most Ford and Chev trucks are made in Brazil, Mexico and Canada. Do you have a problem with giving American workers jobs? Or is there some other reason? I have owned them all, and to be perfectly honest, it appears only people who haven't owned a better truck and think of the usual problems as normal feel the way you do. Life time reliability is meaningful. Any pos can make it 3 years without problems. Well, almost any. My Fords and Chevys never did.
Purchased my Tundra in 2012 to match up with trailer. Reliability was one of the major considerations, have never had any problem over the years and the truck has the tow package and works well with our Cougar trailer. When you move up in size of the trailer you also move up in the amount of wind sail you have following you, heavy trucks are the answer. Always stay within the numbers, discounting 1/2 ton trucks as tow vehicles when the are designed to tow is incorrect. The bigger and heavier the truck is the less you will feel the trailer you are towing but you pay in ride and cost.

[Folkie]

We have a Tundra and love it as a truck, but I'll be the first to tell you it wont work for your setup. Depending on configuration you may get one that is rated to tow the weight but the limitation is load carrying capacity of the truck. We learned the hard way on our first visit to a CAT scale with our 2020 Cougar 22RBS. The hitch weight is more than we expected and we had to make some hard decisions of what not to bring (like water in the camper and we boondock alot :ermm:) and we took almost everything out of the truck bed except folding chairs. We are now towing within specs and our setup rides well but there is little margin.

[travelin texans]

I had a 2016 Tundra and now have a 2020 Both 5.7l, 10,000+ tow capacity, 1850 payload. My truck pulled a lighter trailer fine (4600 pound dry). I only noticed it in the the wind. But the crewmax has a lower tow capacity. I have owned every brand truck out there and in IMHO, the Toyota is the only one worth keeping. I got sick of repairs, breakdowns, computer problems, spark plug problems, check engine lights, etc., on all the other brands. Simply sell the trailer and get something smaller or a 5th wheel.

In your 1st sentence you mentioned 2 of the most useless weights that the truck & RV manufacturers can post, the max tow weight of a truck & RV dry weights.
The RV weighed that dry weight once when it rolled out the factory door then the delivery guy added a battery so the break away brakes were active then once at the dealership they added full propane bottles, at least one or 2 batteries & should test the holding tanks which will NEVER be dry again.
The truck max tow rated at 10k lbs, TT tongue weight run between 10-15% of GVWR meaning a 10k TT tongue would be 1000-1500lbs + 100+/- lbs for the hitch subtract that from 1850lb payload leaving 250-750lbs for everyone/everything you add to the truck that didn't come on it from the factory. Heavy stiffer tires, airbags which may level the ride height & improve handling add nothing to increase payload & weight difference of those add-ons subtract further from the payload.
I would agree with the Toyota & Nissan trucks as grocery getters, for the DIY handymans trip to the lumber yard, or towing a boat/utility trailer, but for rv towing you will need a real tow vehicle.

[Logan X]

You need to give reasons why you wouldn't get a Toyota, which is in fact the last American made truck (santa fe), and has the highest reliability rating of any truck, and, has a higher payload rating than other trucks of its size - 1850 pounds. FYI: Most Ford and Chev trucks are made in Brazil, Mexico and Canada. Do you have a problem with giving American workers jobs? Or is there some other reason? I have owned them all, and to be perfectly honest, it appears only people who haven't owned a better truck and think of the usual problems as normal feel the way you do. Life time reliability is meaningful. Any pos can make it 3 years without problems. Well, almost any. My Fords and Chevys never did.

My Ford was built in Kentucky

[notanlines]

Bbells, I’m calling BS on your entire post. My truck was made in Louisville, that’s in Kentucky, which I’m sure you didn’t know. I have toured the Ford plant in Michigan where American workers pump out 1,500 F-150’s EVERY freaking day! And it is not owned by the country that brought us Pearl Harbor!
Have just a speck of pride, man, don’t just make s&$t up.

[B-O-B'03]

My Ford was built in Kentucky

+1 And I have had no issues with it @ 73K miles other than a fuel pump fuse.

Bbells, I’m calling BS on your entire post. My truck was made in Louisville, that’s in Kentucky, which I’m sure you didn’t know. I have toured the Ford plant in Michigan where American workers pump out 1,500 F-150’s EVERY freaking day! And it is not owned by the country that brought us Pearl Harbor!
Have just a speck of pride, man, don’t just make s&$t up.

Amen!

-Brian

[MikeRP]

All in my opinion, I do have different thoughts about stickers on trucks or the trailer. I don’t see those stickers as mandates. It’s one point in time when the truck Or Camper leaves the factory.

So on my camper I have strengthened the suspension frame, added improvements to the slide mechanisms and many other improvements. It’s heavier but within tires specs. On my truck, I’ve added tires w a 4080 lb rating instead of 3640 out of the factory. I have a 300 lb hitch and a 350 lb extra fuel tank. The only thing I haven’t done is airbags.

So a 1500 series truck, one can have e rated tires that improve the load carrying ability of the tires, likewise air bags that keep the ride height level or a bit above keeping some weight on the front axle, one can upgrade the brakes to improve stopping power., etc.

Now I’m not saying that you can take a 150 and spec it up to out tow a 3500........ well.... well

Actually that has happened, my brother has a Ram 3500 that according to Ram and compared to Ford limits the weight to a few hundred lbs less than 150 or 1500 series trucks w the max tow package. To be fair the payload is over 4000 lbs and it will yank anything put behind it up to the tire limitations.

Most folks can’t assess the risk of doing these upgrades. Thus folks change trucks and camper and blow a lot of cash. I’m looking at myself in a mirror.

Why buy a 2500, it’s obsolete. Couple hundred bucks and you got a 3500 that rides just as well.

So In my humble opinion, the OP could make their truck very competent to handle that trailer. But if they are not comfortable, then they have to make a change.

[flybouy]

We've gone from the Twilight Zone to ...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1x_QbVDlLbI

[sourdough]

Yep, I think we just drifted past the impossible to the unbelievable. Wow, I'm dumping this new 3500, get me an old 1500, spend a couple hundred bucks and have me a 3500 PLUS my 70k back!!:facepalm: Unbelievable!!

I COULD tell you about Tundras but I'm busy at the moment.....:cool:

[MikeRP]

Look it up folks, 2018 Ram 3500 CC SB 6.4 L gasser w .373 is 12450 lbs max tow.

The 150 Ford and Ram 1500 max Tow is above that.

[sourdough]

Look it up folks, 2018 Ram CC SB 6.4 L gasser w .373 is 12450 lbs max tow.

The 150 Ford and Ram 1500 max Tow is above that.



You really need to look at "real life" numbers vs dreamed up "max tow" numbers. Didn't the Tundra just pull the space shuttle right down the road....max tow?? Help me please.

[travelin texans]

Look it up folks, 2018 Ram 3500 CC SB 6.4 L gasser w .373 is 12450 lbs max tow.

The 150 Ford and Ram 1500 max Tow is above that.

Yes that may be, but the 3500 will have a payload of 3k-4k where the 1/2 tons will have 1500-1800lb payloads which is why max tow numbers are totally useless to the RV owner.
This is the reason that truck salesman all spout max tow ratings & never point to the actual payloads posted on the door sticker, that and they don't have a clue about either of the numbers or any experience towing.
The max numbers are achieved by the manufacturers hauling low trailers loaded with blocks which in no way can be compared to towing any RV other than total weight.

[MikeRP]

Yes that may be, but the 3500 will have a payload of 3k-4k where the 1/2 tons will have 1500-1800lb payloads which is why max tow numbers are totally useless to the RV owner.
This is the reason that truck salesman all spout max tow ratings & never point to the actual payloads posted on the door sticker, that and they don't have a clue about either of the numbers or any experience towing.
The max numbers are achieved by the manufacturers hauling low trailers loaded with blocks which in no way can be compared to towing any RV other than total weight.

Exactly my point I was making, my brothers Ram 3500 with a 4000+ payload, is way more competent than any 1500. I’d say the upper end of his truck is really towing around 15,000 lbs.

But if we do look at the OP’s original camper, if their Toyota is near the limit or over on payload with this camper, the truck can be strengthened to handle the payload because it’s not far out of the ratings.

Matter of fact it may not even be out if the ratings if the OP is careful on loading the camper w weight, works on load distribution with the camper and has a good equalizing hitch.

Peace

[flybouy]

Exactly my point I was making, my brothers Ram 3500 with a 4000+ payload, is way more competent than any 1500. I’d say the upper end of his truck is really towing around 15,000 lbs.

But if we do look at the OP’s original camper, if their Toyota is near the limit or over on payload with this camper, the truck can be strengthened to handle the payload because it’s not far out of the ratings.

Matter of fact it may not even be out if the ratings if the OP is careful on loading the camper w weight, works on load distribution with the camper and has a good equalizing hitch.

Peace

The bolded section of your statement will spark a debate among the "experienced" folks on this forum every time. While there's a great debate on the safety and possible ramifications of towing overloaded I know the vast majority here will not endorse doing so. That number on the door states what the "Tested" and deemed safe maximum capacity numbers are by the manufacturer, just like the load ratings on the tires. They are not suggestions. Claims that you can alter the towing capacity by changes in tires,air bags, and even springs get shot down constantly and here's the reasoning. When someone asks the question can I tow X with Y truck they are obviously seeking information that they do not know. Telling someone in that situation that gee, with these couple of add ons you can tow "just like" a larger truck is false and misleading. Following that advice could lead them to "grossly" overload their truck and get them into a dangerous situation.

[JRTJH]

Would you put a new driver who got his learner's permit yesterday on a NASCAR track with 50 other cars all going well over 150 MPH and expect a good result???

What's the difference in putting a new RV'er with no towing experience in an ill equipped tow vehicle and a "too big trailer" on the PUBLIC highway with everything from 18 wheelers, school busses, speeding "new drivers with their first learner's permit" and MY FAMILY ????? Now, if you want, add in the "makeup appliers, cell phone talkers, texters, coffee drinkers, GARMIN inputers, "little old ladies" (and old fart men), SUV taxi moms filled with kids, and don't forget the drunk drivers, those with "socially acceptable medical marijuana" and any other distracted drivers, Oh and MY FAMILY ?????

Now, just how much "built in safety" is adding LT tires and air bags to a "barely adequate or overloaded truck OF ANY BRAND ??????

Any recommendation from this forum "ought to be responsibly written" not a "hey, hold my beer and watch this"...….. YMMV

[travelin texans]

Some of us have been titled "weight police", when it comes to the safety of my family on the highways I will wear the badge proudly.
Folks can add every device on the market to their "not enough" truck, legally it'll still be overloaded, but if the worst happens then there's about 500 tv lawyers standing ready to sue your heiney off & in today's world don't think for a moment that it won't happen.
If it's my family is harmed by someone towing grossly overloaded I'm calling one of those lawyers.

[meaz93*]

I can also tell you that I've seen numerous 3/4 tons pulling 5th wheel/ tow haulers that you know are overloaded and or at their max. Most have airbags added as well.
So again.....look at your trucks spec OEM towing chart; check your trailer specs than make an educated decision.
1/2 ton....3/4 ton whatever works for you-BUT be safe.27507

[travelin texans]

IMHO these sales people, RV & truck, that are misleading folks to buy a RV or truck that will not be able to tow or be towed safely should be held accountable.

[flybouy]

IMHO these sales people, RV & truck, that are misleading folks to buy a RV or truck that will not be able to tow or be towed safely should be held accountable.

I agree on the accountability. I think there are 3 categories of RV salesman.
1. those that don't know what the numbers mean or how to calculate them
2. those that don't care and just want to make a sale
3. those that do know and try to counsel the buyer.

You can assign your own percentages but from my experience #3 would be the smallest number by far.

[wiredgeorge]

Getting into "my xxxx is better than your xxxx" is a wasted conversation generally.

That said, although Toyota employs American workers, as do the Big 3, the corporate profits for Toyota go to Toyota, Aichi, Japan - not Michigan etc.

The Toyota truck plant is in San Antonio Texas at 1 Lone Star Pass, San Antonio, TX 78264 - they offer tours of the plant in better times.

[sourdough]

The Toyota truck plant is in San Antonio Texas at 1 Lone Star Pass, San Antonio, TX 78264 - they offer tours of the plant in better times.


Yes, there is a Toyota plant there. What I was referring to was the corporate profits....they don't stop in the US of A; they go to Toyota Corporation's bottom line.

[wiredgeorge]

Yes, there is a Toyota plant there. What I was referring to was the corporate profits....they don't stop in the US of A; they go to Toyota Corporation's bottom line.

Don't much care about getting into this urinary Olympics but I will say it is easy to modify ANY Tundra to be able to tow significantly more weight... just install one of these:

https://www.ebay.com/i/323799933713?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=323799933713&targetid=883980971208&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9027987&poi=&campaignid=9241643018&mkgroupid=96721224391&rlsatarget=aud-412677883135:pla-883980971208&abcId=1141156&merchantid=119136882&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw5Lcxr3I6QIVDtvACh3K3wpcEAQYASAB EgLKn_D_BwE

[wiredgeorge]

Did anyone else notice that the Tundra owners are pretty much as spun up as the Eco-boost kids got when talking about their rides? Surprised we haven't had a Tundra vs Eco-boost insult fest yet... guess being isolated is weighing on a few folks.... well best get back to the ol' salt mines; I am inundated with work.

[sourdough]

Don't much care about getting into this urinary Olympics but I will say it is easy to modify ANY Tundra to be able to tow significantly more weight... just install one of these:

https://www.ebay.com/i/323799933713?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=323799933713&targetid=883980971208&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9027987&poi=&campaignid=9241643018&mkgroupid=96721224391&rlsatarget=aud-412677883135:pla-883980971208&abcId=1141156&merchantid=119136882&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw5Lcxr3I6QIVDtvACh3K3wpcEAQYASAB EgLKn_D_BwE



George!! And there you were with the answer for all these Toyota owners all this time! Now they can pull those air bags, add a leafs, upgraded tires and sway bars and nitrogen in those tires and just apply that badge! Outstanding! - and no more "urinary contests". :lol:

[wiredgeorge]

George!! And there you were with the answer for all these Toyota owners all this time! Now they can pull those air bags, add a leafs, upgraded tires and sway bars and nitrogen in those tires and just apply that badge! Outstanding! - and no more "urinary contests". :lol:

NITROGEN! Excellent suggestion. It is a lot lighter than air (I guess?) so would definitely allow for much higher pin weights. Also, in some states it is legal to put the kids in the back of the camper going down the road (not real sure on this) and that would also lighten the pin weight. You could take out the propane tanks (out of the front of the camper) and have the kids sitting in the back of their Tunda towed camper hold the propane tanks between their legs! I am on a roll here.... we WILL make those Tundra owners feel like safety mavens soon enough! :popcorn:

[flybouy]

Nitrogen in the tires is one gas but I think a better gas would be Nitrous Oxide in the cabin.:lol:

[travelin texans]

George!! And there you were with the answer for all these Toyota owners all this time! Now they can pull those air bags, add a leafs, upgraded tires and sway bars and nitrogen in those tires and just apply that badge! Outstanding! - and no more "urinary contests". :lol:

Don't much care about getting into this urinary Olympics but I will say it is easy to modify ANY Tundra to be able to tow significantly more weight... just install one of these:

https://www.ebay.com/i/323799933713?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=323799933713&targetid=883980971208&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9027987&poi=&campaignid=9241643018&mkgroupid=96721224391&rlsatarget=aud-412677883135:pla-883980971208&abcId=1141156&merchantid=119136882&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw5Lcxr3I6QIVDtvACh3K3wpcEAQYASAB EgLKn_D_BwE

Then they'll be looking for someone with a real truck to tow it to a shop!!
Urinary Olympics here we come!

[Gegrad]

Then they'll be looking for someone with a real truck to tow it to a shop!!
Urinary Olympics here we come!

Where they will pay for the refill on the turn signal fluid that the shop offers for only $19.95 extra! :lol::lol:

[johnlewis]

New here, first post :wave:
We own a 2015 Cougar 31SQB
Dry Weight 7213
Payload 1787
GVWR 9000
Hubby traded our previous truck for a 2019 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L V8 4WD CrewMax
Tow capacity 9800
GVWR 7,200
Payload 1560
GCWR 16,000
I’m afraid our calculations were incorrect as far as what it can tow. I’ve spent the last 2 hours researching online only to be more confused than before I started. My best estimate, we’re over by at least 1000lbs. We’re not leaving the driveway until we can get confirmation. Any input is welcomed and appreciated!! :confused:

There is an app for that. RV Tow Check. Download to your phone for $1.99. Follow the directions carefully, and it will tell you what you can tow. Just bought a 2017 Tundra/5.7/SR5. RV Tow Check says we can tow between 5,000 lb and 5750 lb GVWR trailer, depending on percent of the trailer that is tongue weight (in this case, 15% Tongue Wt means a 5,000 lb trailer, and 13% Tongue Wt means a 5,750 lb trailer). According to RVTW, the national average Tongue Wt is 12% of trailer GVWR.
Too many rigs out there that are overloaded and susceptible to being an accident. Good for you for wanting to be sure you all tow correctly.

[LynchMom]

I appreciate all of your passionate comments and spirited debate.
You’ve given us lots to consider.
Enjoy your blessings, be kind & live your best lives!

[LynchMom]

There is an app for that. RV Tow Check. Download to your phone for $1.99. Follow the directions carefully, and it will tell you what you can tow. Just bought a 2017 Tundra/5.7/SR5. RV Tow Check says we can tow between 5,000 lb and 5750 lb GVWR trailer, depending on percent of the trailer that is tongue weight (in this case, 15% Tongue Wt means a 5,000 lb trailer, and 13% Tongue Wt means a 5,750 lb trailer). According to RVTW, the national average Tongue Wt is 12% of trailer GVWR.
Too many rigs out there that are overloaded and susceptible to being an accident. Good for you for wanting to be sure you all tow correctly.
This is awesome, thank you for this!

[LynchMom]

I agree on the accountability. I think there are 3 categories of RV salesman.
1. those that don't know what the numbers mean or how to calculate them
2. those that don't care and just want to make a sale
3. those that do know and try to counsel the buyer.

You can assign your own percentages but from my experience #3 would be the smallest number by far.
We found #2 yesterday. Sadly he was the GM :rolleyes:

[Phil Saran]

If you want to RV, just bite the bullet and sell off the truck, keep the trailer and buy
a 3/4 ton truck of your choice to tow with.

I have a friend who has a 32 foot 5th wheel trailer and towed it with a Toyota.
Did fine until he took a trip to Durango CO. Truck had brand new brakes on it.
by the time he got home he had fried the brakes/rotors.

He traded it in on a couple year old Ram 2500 diesel and is very happy with it.

I have a bit bigger 5th wheel (34 foot) Keystone Cougar and I tow with a 2012
Ram 3500 diesel. My 5th wheel weights right at 12K loaded and my truck can
handle 16,600 pounds of trailer.

I keep reading about those who buy brand new trucks. I bought a 2012 in 2018
because I could not stomach or afford $70K for a truck. I did a lot of searching
and found my truck with 46K on speedo for $41K. That amount I could afford. I
bought a extended warranty since it is a diesel and has a turbo. Years back I had
experience paying the bill on Ford 6.0 diesel repairs.

[hazmat456]

All in my opinion, I do have different thoughts about stickers on trucks or the trailer. I don’t see those stickers as mandates. It’s one point in time when the truck Or Camper leaves the factory.

So on my camper I have strengthened the suspension frame, added improvements to the slide mechanisms and many other improvements. It’s heavier but within tires specs. On my truck, I’ve added tires w a 4080 lb rating instead of 3640 out of the factory. I have a 300 lb hitch and a 350 lb extra fuel tank. The only thing I haven’t done is airbags.

So a 1500 series truck, one can have e rated tires that improve the load carrying ability of the tires, likewise air bags that keep the ride height level or a bit above keeping some weight on the front axle, one can upgrade the brakes to improve stopping power., etc.

Now I’m not saying that you can take a 150 and spec it up to out tow a 3500........ well.... well

Actually that has happened, my brother has a Ram 3500 that according to Ram and compared to Ford limits the weight to a few hundred lbs less than 150 or 1500 series trucks w the max tow package. To be fair the payload is over 4000 lbs and it will yank anything put behind it up to the tire limitations.

Most folks can’t assess the risk of doing these upgrades. Thus folks change trucks and camper and blow a lot of cash. I’m looking at myself in a mirror.

Why buy a 2500, it’s obsolete. Couple hundred bucks and you got a 3500 that rides just as well.

So In my humble opinion, the OP could make their truck very competent to handle that trailer. But if they are not comfortable, then they have to make a change.
Well that is exactly what they are, mandates. There is absolutely nothing that can be done to increase its capability short of changing the VIN.

[LHaven]

The max numbers are achieved by the manufacturers hauling low trailers loaded with blocks which in no way can be compared to towing any RV other than total weight.

They're four-wheel trailers, which is the big deception. No tongue loading. That's where RV trailers overload first.

[hazmat456]

They're four-wheel trailers, which is the big deception. No tongue loading. That's where RV trailers overload first.

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/towing/1502-sae-j2807-tow-tests-the-standard/

[Ken / Claudia]

At my old age, I have noticed that the younger crowd that jacks up trucks, drives every where as fast as possible than wants to go into the hills and test/abuse them almost always has 1/2 tons. When your talking about used 3/4 and 1 ton. My opinion is your much less likely to buy a used one that has been abused vs 1/2 tons.

[Trailmaster]

I tow a 27’ Cougar 27RESWE which weighs 6400# empty. With 60 gallons of water, just under 7000# with a 5.7L v-8, air bags, equalizer hitch, trailer brakes, S&B intake and 46 gallon fuel tank. Truck performs very well while towing between 60-70mph. I only get 8mpg when windy and 9mpg or better when not. Not diesel power, but adequate IMO. Toyota Tundra reliability plays heavily into my equation, as well as high cost of diesel TV. BIL pulls 32’ Reflection with a Ford 350 and only gets 2 mpg better traveling same route. There is no substitution for diesel and 1 ton rig, but Tundra is adequate for my purposes. I personally would never tow a TT weighing more than 7000# with the Tundra.

[travelin texans]

I tow a 27’ Cougar 27RESWE which weighs 6400# empty. With 60 gallons of water, just under 7000# with a 5.7L v-8, air bags, equalizer hitch, trailer brakes, S&B intake and 46 gallon fuel tank. Truck performs very well while towing between 60-70mph. I only get 8mpg when windy and 9mpg or better when not. Not diesel power, but adequate IMO. Toyota Tundra reliability plays heavily into my equation, as well as high cost of diesel TV. BIL pulls 32’ Reflection with a Ford 350 and only gets 2 mpg better traveling same route. There is no substitution for diesel and 1 ton rig, but Tundra is adequate for my purposes. I personally would never tow a TT weighing more than 7000# with the Tundra.

Sorry! Your numbers don't compute..
You say 6400# empty + the dealer added battery & propane equals 100#+, 100#+ hitch added, 500#+ of water added & 300#+ of fuel added to whatever you've loaded inside or in storage compartments of the RV equals over the 7000# you wouldn't tow with a Tundra.
Doesn't matter to me, but when I do the math the water alone put you over 7k by at least 200#.

[LHaven]

Since I already know from personal experience that a 26' Cougar exceeds the payload capacity of any quarter-ton model I have been able to locate, these numbers don't fill me with optimism either.

[Trailmaster]

TT, you are correct that I did not list everything. I assumed the battery and propane tanks was part of the 6400#. Even considering any added weight (Batteries, propane, equalizer hitch and small generator); I have not been concerned with my Tundra’s capabilities, so have not felt the urge to weigh my rig. Just returned from a 1k trip from Utah to Montana with no issues. I’m on the road constantly with 65k on my Tundra with zero mechanical issues. Hope you’ve had the same reliability with your TV.

[LHaven]

I towed my Cougar with a half-ton for six months with zero mechanical issues also, but it was still overloaded. The risk is not so much mechanical issues or low mileage, it's getting into an incident due to emergency handling shortcomings and then being determined to be the party at fault, and your insurance not having your back because you were overloaded.

[Trailmaster]

Hmm, my truck is a half ton, not quarter ton. I personally don’t care what anyone chooses as a TV, as long as it’s safe. I feel safe with my set-up and definitely don’t need to justify it in this forum. I will never buy a Dodge and when Ford and GM reliability improves, I MIGHT go shopping

[LHaven]

Sorry, I misspoke. It was a half-ton (F-150), not a quarter-ton (I also fixed the original).

[sourdough]

Hmm, my truck is a half ton, not quarter ton. I personally don’t care what anyone chooses as a TV, as long as it’s safe. I feel safe with my set-up and definitely don’t need to justify it in this forum. I will never buy a Dodge and when Ford and GM reliability improves, I MIGHT go shopping



I would point out that "feeling safe" because your TV can pull whatever is not actually "being safe". Do you have scale numbers for your "safe" rig? If not it's purely subjective on your part because it moves and "feels" safe. And no, you don't have to justify what you do to anyone on this forum. What you will have to do in the event of an accident being overloaded is justify exactly what "feeling safe" means vs mandated weight limits (and how you're weighed) to a jury with your future in the balance.

As far as Toyota vs Ram etc. I run Ram trucks period. I've owned all of them. New generation Rams are just as good as Toyota (I buy new Toyota SUVs all the time - 2020 4runner in the garage at home with 1700 miles), electronics are better as well as powertrain. Reliability is no longer in the corner of a Toyota...I know. What they do have, without doubt, is better resale value but, to me, that in no way compensates for all the other shortcomings they have....including towing ability. Might want to hone up on those weights.....just in case.

Edit: A 27reswe, from what I find, weighs 6494 dry; 8800 gvw and is 31' long??

https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-trailers/cougar-half-ton/floorplans/27reswe-travel-trailer/

[bobbecky]

If you continue to pull that much weight with that 1/2 ton truck, be sure to change the grease in the rear end regularly, as the gears in these lighter trucks are not very heavy and will fail if you do a lot of towing of that trailer. That's why 3/4 and 1 ton trucks are rated for the heavier trailers, as they have heavy components that will last under load.

[notanlines]

Dirk, I read your "I feel safe with my set-up and definitely don’t need to justify it in this forum" with just a touch of concern. You list being an engineer by trade. My degree is in engineering, although after 4 years out of college I never worked in the field again. I don't think your general attitude regarding the weights, nor your insistence that 'My mind's made up. Don't confuse me with the facts' would set very well in most classrooms.
Humor us by taking your rig over the CAT scales and posting the results with your yellow sticker here. Let's have a discussion then, one where we all have a smile on our face, and then you'll know where you stand.
The majority of members here towing large RV's won't even get into a discussion of truck brands beyond the big three because they don't consider Toyota 'worthy.' And Nissan is unheard of. What is important is if you are going to tow overloaded you should be aware of just how far past safe you are so you can react accordingly.
I've spoken in the past of an individual in our present RV park in Wisconsin who pulls a monster'Seismic' toy hauler with an F250 diesel. I talked a little with him about three years ago just in vague terms about how he is way into dually territory. I then had to be schooled by him (me with a 350 dually) what a beast he had. All Bilsteins, air bags, on and on with his happy crap.
Guess what he shows with this year? Yup, a new Ford F250 Platinum. Go figure.
Now that I'm done rambling, just weigh the thing and lets go from there.

[JRTJH]

Jim's comments are "spot on"...

I don't believe anyone on this forum "gets their jollies" from trying to "one up" someone (that they don't know and will likely never meet) who has a "smaller truck than their truck"...

Rather, I think that many "under rated rig owners" get upset when someone forces them to "think about the unknown"... Note that last word: UNKNOWN...

Anyone who tows a heavy trailer with ANY tow vehicle and who doesn't KNOW what their rig weighs is "kidding themself with guesses, not facts".

Weigh your rig, front axle on pad 1, rear axle on pad 2 and trailer axles on pad 3. Get out, remove the loading from the equalizer bars, weigh a second time, then pull off the scale, unhitch the trailer, return to the scale, front axle on pad 1 rear axle on pad 2. With those three weight slips, you'll have FACTS not GUESSES.... As for cost, the first weigh is $12 and each reweigh (within a 24 hour time frame) is $2.50, so your total cost should be $17. (FAQ question 12: https://catscale.com/contact-us/faq/ )

Whether you choose to share the FACTS on this forum is irrelevant, at least to me, but YOU really need to KNOW the FACTS so YOU can make INFORMED decisions about what you're towing on the public highways that WE share with you.

Bottom line: BE SAFE AND KNOW YOUR RIG'S CAPABILITY BASED ON FACTS, NOT GUESSES.....

[sourdough]

I would point out that "feeling safe" because your TV can pull whatever is not actually "being safe". Do you have scale numbers for your "safe" rig? If not it's purely subjective on your part because it moves and "feels" safe. And no, you don't have to justify what you do to anyone on this forum. What you will have to do in the event of an accident being overloaded is justify exactly what "feeling safe" means vs mandated weight limits (and how you're weighed) to a jury with your future in the balance.

As far as Toyota vs Ram etc. I run Ram trucks period. I've owned all of them. New generation Rams are just as good as Toyota (I buy new Toyota SUVs all the time - 2020 4runner in the garage at home with 1700 miles), electronics are better as well as powertrain. Reliability is no longer in the corner of a Toyota...I know. What they do have, without doubt, is better resale value but, to me, that in no way compensates for all the other shortcomings they have....including towing ability. Might want to hone up on those weights.....just in case.

Edit: A 27reswe, from what I find, weighs 6494 dry; 8800 gvw and is 31' long??

https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-trailers/cougar-half-
ton/floorplans/27reswe-travel-trailer/


A clarification on the above post I made:

When I stated "electronics are better as well as powertrain" I was alluding to Ram; and may as well be every other member of the Big 3. I have lamented to FCA many times their inability to upgrade drive trains and electronics. Braking on any Japanese truck definitely has shortcomings if towing.

[Beast2017]

New here, first post :wave:
We own a 2015 Cougar 31SQB
Dry Weight 7213
Payload 1787
GVWR 9000
Hubby traded our previous truck for a 2019 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L V8 4WD CrewMax
Tow capacity 9800
GVWR 7,200
Payload 1560
GCWR 16,000
I’m afraid our calculations were incorrect as far as what it can tow. I’ve spent the last 2 hours researching online only to be more confused than before I started. My best estimate, we’re over by at least 1000lbs. We’re not leaving the driveway until we can get confirmation. Any input is welcomed and appreciated!! :confused:

Welcome to towing! I had your same truck with a little less payload that yours and I pulled a 31’ TT with a loaded weight of 7500 lbs. I took the truck and trailer to the cat scales towards the end of the camping season. I was shocked to find out the actual weight of everything but I then knew why towing with this setup sucked. The hitch weight was 1140lbs!!! I upgraded the truck to an F350 CCSB 6.7 because we upgraded the camper this year. I see many other comments here saying your truck and camper combo is a bad idea and I would agree. It’ll do it barely but not safely and you won’t enjoy it at all. Sorry to deliver you the bad news but it’s better to know now.