water pump

[shadow]

I have started to de winterize camper filled tank with some water pump primed we flushed all lines I found pump will not shut off. We have low pressure sounds like air in lines can't see any leaks is there a pressure switch some where we have a 327res cougar ??

[Canonman]

If you opened the low point drains when you winterized, they may not be closed all the way. Also check any outside faucets or shower hose. Also you may be trying to fill the hot water tank. As for air in the lines, you'll need to crack open each faucet both hot and cold and purge any air. Don't open them all the way at first since the air in the lines will "jackhammer" and could cause problems. When the water is running well with no air then open them fully. Once everything is shut off including the shower, the pump should stop. If not, there is something still open or a leak:(

[chuckster57]

Make sure your water heater is in normal position and you have opened EVERY hot and cold tap. If the water heater is in normal, did you open a hot faucet and bleed all the air?

[JRTJH]

A couple of things to check before troubleshooting the water system.

1. Is the water heater full? If not, it'll take 2-3 minutes of the pump running before it fills, then you've got all the air in the lines to purge before the pump will stop "compressing air".
2. Are the caps on the low point drains? If not, you can lose "thousands of gallons" under the trailer without seeing any "evidence of leaks inside".

3. Is the anode in the water heater and the pressure relief valve closed?

4. Is the water pump "picking up water and delivering it to the faucets? If there's no water flow at the faucets, the pump inlet line (the one that's also connected to the antifreeze port) may have an air leak, not picking up water, so it will run "continuously" until there's no more air at the inlet. If the fitting is not securely installed or if the valve handle is not completely closed (if it's the type of antifreeze line that uses a valve rather than a different fitting)…

To answer your question: Yes there is a pressure switch built into the pump head. It is all one unit with the pump and usually it's cheaper and easier to buy a new pump rather than a pressure switch or a pump head.

[bobbecky]

You may also have a valve that switches from CITY water to TANK FILL, and if that valve is still in the tank fill position, your pump will run without pumping to the faucets.

[shadow]

Thanks for all the idea's I will investigate further to day and let you know what I find.

[Brentw]

You may also have a valve that switches from CITY water to TANK FILL, and if that valve is still in the tank fill position, your pump will run without pumping to the faucets.

Ya, that's caught me a few times.:whistling:

[shadow]

I let it set for a couple of days it did not fix itself Well I drained the water heater refilled check pump still little pressure and pump would not shut off checked low drain points shut pump off and drained water through them turned water on hot and cold let it run for a few minutes still the same. Went to the RV store got a new pump installed this and it fixed all of my problems. ready to go camping soon as the wife get all the food loaded .

[Just chillin]

Before you throw the old pump away, take it apart. It might be full of trash from the tank. If it is , clean it out and now you have a spare pump. If not , at least now you know how the pump works.

[JRTJH]

Before you throw the old pump away, take it apart. It might be full of trash from the tank. If it is , clean it out and now you have a spare pump. If not , at least now you know how the pump works.

^^^ what he said... The pump is very easy to take apart, just pay attention to what goes where, lay the parts out in the order you remove them so you can reverse the order when you reinstall them.

Normally, the pump diaphragm/rollers gets some small bits of plastic from the water pump and they interrupt the water pump function.

If you haven't got one, I'd suggest an inlet strainer mounted to the pump inlet. It's "saved my bacon" more times than I can count. Cost from Amazon is about $10. https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-01740300A-Pump-Mini-Strainer/dp/B004BC6E2Q/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1LTCKEVJOAYF9&dchild=1&keywords=flojet+strainer&qid=1589855662&sprefix=flojet+s%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-4

If your pump has the snap lock fasteners and is a Flojet, this is the strainer you need. If you have a ShurFlo pump, or a different type of fasteners/fittings, then research the correct strainer for your type pump.

[shadow]

That's a good idea. When looking at instructions I seen the strainer thought it was a good idea.

[JimSchwenk]

^^^ what he said... The pump is very easy to take apart, just pay attention to what goes where, lay the parts out in the order you remove them so you can reverse the order when you reinstall them.

Normally, the pump diaphragm/rollers gets some small bits of plastic from the water pump and they interrupt the water pump function.

If you haven't got one, I'd suggest an inlet strainer mounted to the pump inlet. It's "saved my bacon" more times than I can count. Cost from Amazon is about $10. https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-01740300A-Pump-Mini-Strainer/dp/B004BC6E2Q/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1LTCKEVJOAYF9&dchild=1&keywords=flojet+strainer&qid=1589855662&sprefix=flojet+s%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-4

If your pump has the snap lock fasteners and is a Flojet, this is the strainer you need. If you have a ShurFlo pump, or a different type of fasteners/fittings, then research the correct strainer for your type pump.

I just replaced my FloJet pump, and when I opened up the box inside the front storage compartment I noticed there wasn't any strainer at all. I was surprised, my Dutchman a few years ago had a pump with one built right into the bottom of it.
Anyway, Wasn't sure which strainer was the right one but you've ID'd it for me. Mine has the snap-lock connections so I might as well take out a couple of screws again and put one in. I've not dry camped much with the present TT, but I want to be ready.
By the way, the pressure switch body on the bottom on the old pump cracked wide open, there must have been water in there even though I thought I had run it dry. Nobody ever told me there was a bypass selector valve right in there to suck up antifreeze, so I've always just drained/blown out the system and poured antifreeze into my drain traps, etc. Never a problem for 4 years until this year.
Also...I must have been distracted because I completely forgot the pressure regulator on the campground water line hookup the first time, but I doubt the old camp well pressure would have popped the pump open. (No other system leaks noted, whew!)
This is my second TT but I've learned a whole lot from you guys about what constitutes a thorough and informative pre-purchase orientation, and questions to ask that let the dealer know I have somewhat of a clue (although that might be called into question on occasion :rolleyes:).
I'll save the old pump for parts. Or get a new pressure body piece for the bottom. Nothing else wrong with it.

[JRTJH]

Jim,

You can special order a new pump head to bolt onto your existing pump, but I've found that usually costs almost as much as a new pump. New ones have a 2 year warranty, so I wouldn't buy one until it's needed. There's nothing more frustrating than having a "brand new pump" that's been sitting in a box in the trailer for 2-3 years, and when you finally need it, it won't work and there's no way to get a replacement. Obviously a manufacturing defect, but too late to claim it and it's $75 or so "lost". With your existing "broken pump" you should be OK for "spare parts" except for the pump head housing.

[Joe2650BH]

I had a similar issue caused by a weak battery. I believe the pump couldn’t reach pressure because of the weak battery and didn’t shut off. Are you plugged in?