Storing Travel Trailer-Metal Building

[yankees1]

Looking to build a metal 30' x40' building with 12' sliding doors at each end of building so I can pull the trailer in at one end and when I'm ready to use the trailer, I can pull it out the other end without ever backing the trailer in or out. Anyone have this arrangement? Not wanting to park the trailer in middle of floor and was wondering if trailer can be pulled over to side and still be able to pull out at other end when it is time to use it?

[JRTJH]

I'm looking at doing much the same as you. I want to build a 30x40 pole barn with 14' sidewalls and doors. My plan is to install a 14' sliding door nearer the sidewall (on both ends) which opens/slides to the center, and a 8' conventional overhead garage door (only in one end) so I can drive the trailer in, unhook and still be able to use the remaining space to store my boat/snowmobile trailer and ATV's.

I'm going a little bigger than needed for 2 reasons: 1) It seems I always fill the space I'm allotted :rolleyes: and 2) should we grow to a larger/taller trailer, I want to be able to accommodate it without rebuilding.

[yankees1]

I'm looking at doing much the same as you. I want to build a 30x40 pole barn with 14' sidewalls and doors. My plan is to install a 14' sliding door nearer the sidewall (on both ends) which opens/slides to the center, and a 8' conventional overhead garage door (only in one end) so I can drive the trailer in, unhook and still be able to use the remaining space to store my boat/snowmobile trailer and ATV's.

I'm going a little bigger than needed for 2 reasons: 1) It seems I always fill the space I'm allotted :rolleyes: and 2) should we grow to a larger/taller trailer, I want to be able to accommodate it without rebuilding. Great idea on doors!! Thank you!

[Jay Pat]

With the 2 doors as you described, I would consider a third or forth door for the other side of the building. Maybe not as tall of doors.
Something about trying to parallel park a RV inside that size building just sends me warning signals. It will take up a lot of space to wiggle the RV around.
If you were to get one of those powered dollies,...... that might work! And safer!
Pat

[yankees1]

With the 2 doors as you described, I would consider a third or forth door for the other side of the building. Maybe not as tall of doors.
Something about trying to parallel park a RV inside that size building just sends me warning signals. It will take up a lot of space to wiggle the RV around.
If you were to get one of those powered dollies,...... that might work! And safer!
Pat Don't quite follow you but according to the JRTJH post, he/she would be pulling the trailer straight in the 14' end door and it is a straight shot out the opposite 14' end door on opposite end. There would be no need to wiggle the trailer around inside the building. This places the trailer close to one side wall while leaving a lot of room inside building for other "toys" ! :)

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Had a friend in Ohio that had a polebarn made 2 story. Think it was a 30'X40'.
Had 4 doors, 2 on each end. 14'ers for his big truck on one half and some 10' doors for the other half (one never knows???). had the staiway in the center along with a full bathroom (again, one never knows), and his shop bench on the big truck side (wasn't used as often). Kept his Big truck her Jeep his pick-up and a 6 pack of Harleys in there. The Harleys lived UP STAIRS. he'd built a lift systen for them...:bdance:

hankaye

[JRTJH]

Howdy All;

Had a friend in Ohio that had a polebarn made 2 story. Think it was a 30'X40'.
Had 4 doors, 2 on each end. 14'ers for his big truck on one half and some 10' doors for the other half (one never knows???). had the staiway in the center along with a full bathroom (again, one never knows), and his shop bench on the big truck side (wasn't used as often). Kept his Big truck her Jeep his pick-up and a 6 pack of Harleys in there. The Harleys lived UP STAIRS. he'd built a lift systen for them...:bdance:

hankaye

HEHE Hankaye, As I read your post, and got to the part about the Harley's living upstairs, I just knew the next line was going to be, "And he drove them up the stairs, but only after a series of multiple "bud lights" to guide the way.... LOL Glad to see he put in the lift system :rofl:

[SteveC7010]

Looking to build a metal 30' x40' building with 12' sliding doors at each end of building so I can pull the trailer in at one end and when I'm ready to use the trailer, I can pull it out the other end without ever backing the trailer in or out. Anyone have this arrangement? Not wanting to park the trailer in middle of floor and was wondering if trailer can be pulled over to side and still be able to pull out at other end when it is time to use it?

You didn't say how long your truck and trailer combination is, but even if you have a very short trailer, you won't have much maneuvering space in a 40' long building. Better to drive straight in, park, and then drive straight out.

Rather than locate the doors in the center of the 30' walls, you might think about offsetting them a bit to leave extra work/storage space on one side or the other of where the camper will sit. But remember, if you have slides on both sides of the unit, you will probably want enough space to run them out when parked inside the building. I'd also suggest that you additionally leave enough room to walk around the camper when the slides are fully extended.

[yankees1]

You didn't say how long your truck and trailer combination is, but even if you have a very short trailer, you won't have much maneuvering space in a 40' long building. Better to drive straight in, park, and then drive straight out.

Rather than locate the doors in the center of the 30' walls, you might think about offsetting them a bit to leave extra work/storage space on one side or the other of where the camper will sit. But remember, if you have slides on both sides of the unit, you will probably want enough space to run them out when parked inside the building. I'd also suggest that you additionally leave enough room to walk around the camper when the slides are fully extended. 29' trailer and pulled by suburban. JRTJH above recommended the same as you in that he is placing doors to far side of each end ( not sides) , leaving maximum space for other toys in remaining space. He also is installing a eight foot garage style door in one end so he drive smaller type equipment ( mowers,etc) in and out.

[msp2jxr]

I have something similar and would recommend the door opening be at least three feet in from the corner. This allows the slides to be pushed out. I would also recommend getting overhead doors and not get the sliding doors. Yes you do give up some overhead clearance room for the overhead door but the seal on the doors is so much better at keeping critters and the weather outside where it belongs.

[Jay Pat]

Sorry about that yankees1. I was trying to describe what JRTJH plus maybe another 8' door at the other end, if you have a lot of toys.
I have a 17 foot wide RV port and I park in the middle. With slides out, I can get around the slides and have plenty of room to get around on the passenger side. Plently of room and not to have to worry about bumping scraping the sides of the RV.

[strawpatch1]

Yeah I would build in at least one more "short" door for the other stuff. Don't think that there will not be "other stuff". Any time there is extra space someone will be willing to help you fill it up!:bdance:

[cumminsdad08]

i install overhead doors, and i know ALL ABOUT POLE BARNS. i have seen more,and been in more then most people. i have done just about every kind of situation. i think, IMO, that the best solution is to keep the doors off to the side about 3 feet as stated, this allows you to pull stright in and stright out, install a 14 foot by 14 foot door. this will give you plenty of clearence, cause there is always a little lip at the opening and the trailer ends up going in on an "angle" so to say. you can make do with a 13 high, BUT, most door manufacture's will still charge you for the 14 high. i would stay away from sliding doors. you have to keep the area clear for them to open up. as far as snow and such. plus they tend to have more weight, and not work as nice. you also will have a tough time finding openers if you decide in the future. i can install a 14 foot high door with as little as 9 inches of headroom, including a door opener. it would be tight, but doable. i also think that it is a good idea to put a "smaller door" next to the "front" door. i think the best size is a 10 foot by 10 foot door. you are able to use about 3 feet of highlift, (when the door rides up the wall before turning into the horizontal track), and this will leave the option of installing a vehical lift. i stay away from the 8 foot and 9 foot wide opening's. vehicals are only getting bigger and wider. i am not a big fan of the 8 high doors, especially if they are next to a large opening, also you have all that headroom inside, use it. this is just my experiance, and a lot of people's "mistakes". any questions, let me know.