No shore power and dead batteries

[Bamalynn]

This has been a problem from the word go, day one, when we brought the coach home brand new. This is a 2018 Montana High Country 362RD. The 110 outlets do not have any power to 3/4 of the coach, and none of the AC power appliances will operate. A few outlets will still supply power, but very little, like to charge a phone and that's it. None of the lights or smoke detector are able to power on. The batteries will only hold a charge from when we manually charge them, or from being hooked up to the pull vehicle. This is the only way we are able to power the jacks up/down when the system is dead. We've replaced the deep cycle batteries, replaced the inverter at a dealer, and still the issue persists. Replaced the 50amp power cord, and run it directly to our 50amp outlet without any adapters. No blown fuses and we've deduced that there has to be a short somewhere that is draining the batteries in a matter of a few days. It's been very frustrating that the dealerships (2) we've taken it to say they can't find a problem when it's on their lot, yet when we bring it home, shore power won't even charge the batteries. We've checked the kill switch in the battery compartment, checked the "store" switch in the power compartment, moved everything to both positions thinking possibly it was installed backwards. We were told that it must be the batteries, since the coach won't supply power if the batteries break the chain of power in the electronic loop. I'm not an electrician, and we have tried looking in every forum for every mention of inverter issues, and have gotten nowhere. The dealerships think we're nuts and just "inexperienced" but this is our fourth trailer over the past 15 years (1st 5th wheel) but we do have a clue of how this is supposed to work. If anyone can give me some ideas of what to try next, we're all ears. Hopefully I've been clear and didn't misspeak in any of the terminology. Husband is familiar with high voltage/amp electronic systems but not low voltage so this has been a real challenge. :banghead:

[JRTJH]

I'd first ask, "What power source are you using at home?"

If you're using a "garage 20 amp outlet" with an adapter, you may only have power to 1/2 of your 2/2 power center distribution legs.

If 2 service centers have not found a problem and the trailer works on their "shore power source" then I'd focus primarily on what's different at your house shore power source.....

Once that's checked out and you KNOW it's functioning properly, then maybe someone can start walking you through the troubleshooting. But, if 2 dealerships didn't find a problem with the trailer, I'd start with what is different....

[flybouy]

First off welcome. The battery (12vdc) has nothing to do with the 120 vac outlets or appliances. The only place there is an interface is the converter that charges the battery. Have you used the camper in a campground? Or does this problem only exist at home. How are you connecting to shore power? Is it via a 50 amp supply?

It sounds like one leg of the 50 amp panel is not receiving any voltage. If 3/4 of the outlets work and the converter isn't charging then I guess they are on the same main power lug in the distribution panel. I don't understand the "A few outlets will still supply power, but very little, like to charge a phone and that's it." The 120 vac outlets should either work, or not.

If your husband can understand ac current then it should be easy to troubleshoot. I'd suggest starting with the outlet that the camper is plugged into If both 120 v legs are energized then remove the panel inside (breaker box panel cover) and check for the presence of both legs (120 vac) to the neutral and to the ground. Line 1 should be black, Line 2 red, neutral is white, and ground is green.

[flybouy]

:lol:Looks like John hit post before I did.

[flybouy]

This may help him check out the 50 amp receptacle. The 14-50R on the left side is the correct wiring for the shore power receptacle (outlet).

[sourdough]

Looks like the bases have been covered. OP needs to determine if we are talking 12vdc or 120vac. Outlets, TV, AC etc. are one thing, batteries, converter etc. another.

[Bamalynn]

I posted in my original post that 3/4 of the outlets don't work, and we replaced the 50amp cord and are plugging it into a 50amp outlet, without any adapters. This is at our home on our RV pad. This issue doesn't seem to be a lack of power from the ground to the rig as it also has failed at a campsites. We don't notice the issue until the batteries go dead, which usually takes two days. We were told by the dealerships that if we aren't receiving any AC power, then our DC system is not functioning, due to either bad batteries or a bad inverter. Once the batteries die, none of the lights will work, and only 1/4 of the outlets function. Not all dealerships have quality technicians, and some don't admit when they don't know how to fix something. I wouldn't be surprised if they said it was "fine" just to send us home.

[Bamalynn]

"If your husband can understand ac current then it should be easy to troubleshoot. I'd suggest starting with the outlet that the camper is plugged into If both 120 v legs are energized then remove the panel inside (breaker box panel cover) and check for the presence of both legs (120 vac) to the neutral and to the ground. Line 1 should be black, Line 2 red, neutral is white, and ground is green."

Husband did this and confirmed both legs have power. The issue of the batteries not being charged is also an issue, and can't seem to find out where to start to diagnose that either.

[sourdough]

Your original post said 3/4 of the outlets don't work and none of the AC appliances; first big issue and probably primary. Your batteries and converter have nothing to do with that...at all. Your first order of business is to ascertain where that AC voltage is going. Another statement that doesn't make sense is that you don't notice these problems until you've been plugged in a day or 2 and the batteries go dead. No AC appliances until the batteries go dead? It doesn't work that way.

You said your husband has determined that you have 120vac on both hot legs of your 50A feed (I'm assuming on the proper legs). At both ends of the 50A cable? At the back of the power panel? At the back of the converter? You have to have the AC input at all these locations for 1) your AC appliances to work and 2) to feed the converter which then feeds the batteries.

If you have done this repeatedly and let the batteries deplete until they're dead you should probably replace them as well; after you figure out where your power is going.

[flybouy]

First figure out the 120 vac issue. Once that's solved we can move on to the battery. As Danny asked, where did your husband test the voltage?

[CedarCreekWoody]

Do you have an inverter where the battery voltage is inverted to 120 volt A/C and this is then supplied to those outlets? If so perhaps the inverter is failing to switch over and is continuing to supply power to the outlets while you are on shore power. When on shore power the inverter should drop out and let the shore power feed the outlets directly.

[Bamalynn]

Okay, so to reply back to all of the questions:
Husband found that when the batteries don't have enough charge, the GFI trips, and all outlets that are tied to the GFI (in the main bathroom) go dead. This also happens to be all of the main appliances, outdoor kitchen, rear bathroom, fireplaces. So, that part has been figured out as to the outlet situation.

The power was tested in-line in several places, and everywhere that was tested had correct power for both proper legs, nothing was "not working".

So, when the batteries are hooked up to a charger and the GFI is reset, all outlets are working and all lights too. Everything working as it should. The minute the batteries come off the charger, and drain after a couple days, the issue presents itself again. These are brand new batteries, new inverter, new shore power cord. No idea why shore power isn't charging the batteries.

So, the two systems are connected and being plugged in will not power everything without the batteries being fully (or mostly) charged. While using the coach and plugged in, the batteries are getting depleted. If that's not supposed to be how the system should be wired, then we're really screwed... sigh.

[notanlines]

Of all the responses the one that peaked my interest was Woody's with the inverter idea. I'm assuming yours came with a standard 'residential' refrigerator. If so you have an inverter so your fridge works while you are driving down the road. A very common fridge for your unit is a Whirlpool three door, freezer on the bottom and two doors on top. Look into Woody's ideas carefully.

[bobbecky]

One thing to check is that battery disconnect switch. If it’s like most, there will be a red plastic handle the turns to On or Off. Forget the On and Off and make sure the handle of the switch is turned to whatever position is where you cannot pull the red handle out of the switch. If the handle pulls out, the batteries are not connected to the CONVERTER and you need the handle turned so it cannot be removed. Your lights are 12 volts from the batteries but most of your appliances are 120 volts.

[flybouy]

Okay, so to reply back to all of the questions:
Husband found that when the batteries don't have enough charge, the GFI trips, and all outlets that are tied to the GFI (in the main bathroom) go dead. This also happens to be all of the main appliances, outdoor kitchen, rear bathroom, fireplaces. So, that part has been figured out as to the outlet situation.

The power was tested in-line in several places, and everywhere that was tested had correct power for both proper legs, nothing was "not working".

So, when the batteries are hooked up to a charger and the GFI is reset, all outlets are working and all lights too. Everything working as it should. The minute the batteries come off the charger, and drain after a couple days, the issue presents itself again. These are brand new batteries, new inverter, new shore power cord. No idea why shore power isn't charging the batteries.

So, the two systems are connected and being plugged in will not power everything without the batteries being fully (or mostly) charged. While using the coach and plugged in, the batteries are getting depleted. If that's not supposed to be how the system should be wired, then we're really screwed... sigh.

So you say the minute then you say a couple of days for the batteries to drain. Which one is it? How do you know the batteries have been charged? When you say "new inverter" are you talking about the unit that charges the battery? If it is, then that is a CONVERTER. An inverter takes the 12 vdc from the battery and makes it 120 vac. Your unit may have an inverter if the fridge is a residential fridge.

Battery drain is dependent on the load placed upon it. How long the battery will go in between charging is dependent on that load AND the battery condition and capacity. Do you know what type batteries are in the camper? Are they 2 12 volt batteries wired in parallel? If so, what type batteries? Are they 2 6v batteries wired in series? If they are, what brand and how many amp hours? Lasting 2 days would be normal (probably pretty good) if you are running a residential fridge from an inverter. There are lots of variables that if unanswered would lead to a lot of guessing if you have an issue or not.

[Steveo57]

It sounds like the converter is not working. It should charge the batteries and provide power to the DC loads like lights even if the batteries are dead. There are two reverse polarity fuses either in the fuse panel or on the converter that you should check.

[sourdough]

Do you have an inverter where the battery voltage is inverted to 120 volt A/C and this is then supplied to those outlets? If so perhaps the inverter is failing to switch over and is continuing to supply power to the outlets while you are on shore power. When on shore power the inverter should drop out and let the shore power feed the outlets directly.


I'll have to look at mine again but I'm sure my inverter is for the fridge only. It's nowhere big enough to run all the AC components in the RV. I've looked at 4 different locations on google, including Keystone, and the 362rd all look like they have electric/gas fridges.

[flybouy]

Okay, so to reply back to all of the questions:
Husband found that when the batteries don't have enough charge, the GFI trips, and all outlets that are tied to the GFI (in the main bathroom) go dead. This also happens to be all of the main appliances, outdoor kitchen, rear bathroom, fireplaces. So, that part has been figured out as to the outlet situation.

The power was tested in-line in several places, and everywhere that was tested had correct power for both proper legs, nothing was "not working".

So, when the batteries are hooked up to a charger and the GFI is reset, all outlets are working and all lights too. Everything working as it should. The minute the batteries come off the charger, and drain after a couple days, the issue presents itself again. These are brand new batteries, new inverter, new shore power cord. No idea why shore power isn't charging the batteries.

So, the two systems are connected and being plugged in will not power everything without the batteries being fully (or mostly) charged. While using the coach and plugged in, the batteries are getting depleted. If that's not supposed to be how the system should be wired, then we're really screwed... sigh.

The bolded section..let's review that the batteries have absolutely nothing to do with the GFIC or the 120 vac outlets.
The red section ... if you are plugged into a properly wired shore power then the converter should provide 12v dc while charging the batteries.

The two systems are:
12v dc - powers all lights (inside and outside), fans, range hood fan & lights, awning, slide outs, water pump, outside antenna booster, the control board for the fridge if it's a LP/electric fridge, the control board and the fan for the LP furnace.
120v ac - powers all "standard outlets", microwave, television, fireplace, fridge (if in electric mode), water heater if electric is chosen, the air conditioners, the battery charger via the converter.

As was mentioned, if the battery wires were connected backwards, even for a split second, the "reverse polarity" fuses will blow oput and prevent the battery from charging. Have your husband check the voltage of the batteries while connected to shore power. If the reading is 12 volts or less then they are not being charged.

[wiredgeorge]

Perhaps it would be best to contact a local RV Repair service and have this issue tackled by someone who knows what they are doing. Sounds like the OP or her hubby doesn't have the skills and with a myrid of advice, may only be heading to confusion land.

[Ken / Claudia]

This post is only leading to massive frustration from lack of understanding 2 electrical systems and how to check them out. Many on here can give good advice and mine is pay a RV shop to check it out and fix it. Plan on buying 2 new batteries after you fix the 120v problem if they are going dead over and over they are shot.

[Bamalynn]

I do not have a residential fridge. Ours is the 4 door, RV model. 2 side by side doors on top for freezer and two bigger side by side doors below freezer for fridge. To answer the inverter question, it continues to humm while plugged in to shore power. Is this not supposed to happen? Figured it would be on to charge the batteries, but it sounds like that's not what it's supposed to do?

[flybouy]

I do not have a residential fridge. Ours is the 4 door, RV model. 2 side by side doors on top for freezer and two bigger side by side doors below freezer for fridge. To answer the inverter question, it continues to humm while plugged in to shore power. Is this not supposed to happen? Figured it would be on to charge the batteries, but it sounds like that's not what it's supposed to do?

I honestly think it would be in your best interest to get someone locally to look at your trailer, explain what you have and how to operate it and repair it if necessary.

[Steveo57]

You said in your original post that "A few outlets will still supply power, but very little, like to charge a phone and that's it". I'm curious what you mean by very little like to charge a phone and that's it?

If you have two air conditioners do they both work ok?

Why did you have to replace the "inverter" (I think you mean converter)?

And how have you been able to use the trailer with this problem? If you only have power for a few days until the battery goes dead what do you do?

Have you checked the reverse polarity fuses for the converter as was mentioned previously?

[Hamops]

I posted in my original post that 3/4 of the outlets don't work, and we replaced the 50amp cord and are plugging it into a 50amp outlet, without any adapters. This is at our home on our RV pad. This issue doesn't seem to be a lack of power from the ground to the rig as it also has failed at a campsites.
Did you check the shore power connector on the trailer? It appears that this is the only thing that hasn't been done. I suspect that the connector on your trailer has a loose or corroded connection. The loose or corroded connection can be deceiving because it may show full voltage at the circuit breaker panel, under no load conditions but a much lower voltage under load conditions. This appears to be what is happening in your case. It'll be a real pain to remove the connector from the wall of the trailer because to the caulking and sealant, but I think that you should look at it. When you get it out, inspect the connections for tightness and corrosion. A loose connection in all likelihood will show some discolourizaion of the wire and connector.

We don't notice the issue until the batteries go dead, which usually takes two days. We were told by the dealerships that if we aren't receiving any AC power, then our DC system is not functioning, due to either bad batteries or a bad inverter. Once the batteries die, none of the lights will work, and only 1/4 of the outlets function.
I firmly think that your problem is in your AC supply circuit and when that is resolved, all your other problems will be solved.

Not all dealerships have quality technicians, and some don't admit when they don't know how to fix something. I wouldn't be surprised if they said it was "fine" just to send us home.
It wouldn't be the first time for me to have to solve their problems for them. I have the same type issues with trailer service departments

As with the others in this thread, I hope that things work out for you.

[chunker]

I do not have a residential fridge. Ours is the 4 door, RV model. 2 side by side doors on top for freezer and two bigger side by side doors below freezer for fridge. To answer the inverter question, it continues to humm while plugged in to shore power. Is this not supposed to happen? Figured it would be on to charge the batteries, but it sounds like that's not what it's supposed to do?

I'm not familiar with that trailer but I'll make a couple observations. Since it has an RV fridge, the trailer probably doesn't have an inverter. That means all 120v items are directly from shore power. Converters will "buzz" some when operating and it almost sound like the battery disconnect is in the "OFF" position not charging the battery/(S). I also agree that it looks like the OP is in over their head on this and time to take to a good RV repair facility. I'll emphasize GOOD shop.

[Bbartley78]

It almost sounds like from what you are describing that there is an inverter in your unit and every thing 120 volt is running through that inverter from your batteries. We had a Diesel Pusher Motor Home that we could turn the inverter on and run all of our 120 volt stuff off of the 12 volt batteries. We had a four battery bank so they lasted a while. It really sounds like either that is switched that way or some kind of auto switching device has failed and is not going back to shore power when hooked up. We had a power selection panel in the MH and could turn it on or off.

Brian & Susan Bartley
Austin, MN
2007 F150
2018 Wildwood FSX 190SS 19' Travel Trailer
We downsized to tiny

[moodman]

I do not have a residential fridge. Ours is the 4 door, RV model. 2 side by side doors on top for freezer and two bigger side by side doors below freezer for fridge. To answer the inverter question, it continues to humm while plugged in to shore power. Is this not supposed to happen? Figured it would be on to charge the batteries, but it sounds like that's not what it's supposed to do?

My 5er is exactly the same year and model as yours. I too have the RV model fridge. None of my 120v outlets work on battery power, per the design. This model has a converter, not an inverter, so you cannot expect 120V power on any outlet when running on batteries. Also, even if connected to shore power, when there is a power draw (even 12V lights) you can hear the fan running on the converter behind the bathroom wall.

In the upstairs bedroom there is a USB outlet by the bed. I use it to charge my phone. Behind the bedroom TV is a 12V plug (the round type) where you could plug in an addon inverter that wold give you some limited 120V power, but that's it!

All my 12V lights and the slides work just fine, even with no shore power.

When I am at home, I run a regular extension cord to the rig plugged into a 30amp to 50amp wishbone adapter that is then plugged into the unit's regular power cord. This keep my batteries topped off at home and gives me limited lighting (and if I wanted to, I could power the fridge, since that is a 12V unit)

I do love my 362RD, and will test out some things on mine if you ask me so that you can see if your rig is "normal" or if it's really misbehaving. Good luck!

[Big 417]

How can this be so difficult? Make sure your breakers are all switched on. Make sure your battery disconnect is on if you have one. If that things plugged in everything 120 should be working full bore. So verify breakers are on. And that includes the double set on the pole. Could be a loose connection at the converter, or as said the converter it self is shot. I wish I was there, could probably figure it out in 5 minutes, as I'm sure many of us could

[JRTJH]

According to the OP's first post, this trailer has been to 2 different dealership service departments and they've both "found nothing wrong"

AND

The OP stated in that same post, "The dealerships think we're nuts and just "inexperienced" but this is our fourth trailer over the past 15 years (1st 5th wheel) but we do have a clue of how this is supposed to work."

So, apparently there is some "experience base" that the OP has and in "comparing previous RV electrical systems" with "this RV's electrical system" there is a significant difference. I don't think it's as "simple as not being plugged into shore power" if they have had 3 other RV's, surely they already know this....

It seems "perplexing" to me... I'd suggest having a "third set of eyes" come to the location where the trailer is "not working correctly" while it's hooked up to the "problem electrical source" and let that "third set of eyes" see the actual condition of the plugs that barely have any power" and the electrical components that won't work"... Possibly there's something as simple as a "non-powered leg on the 50 amp plug" or a bad adapter plug that's in use to adapt the 50 amp power cord down to a 20 amp garage outlet ???

Something is amiss and, if the OP has had 3 previous trailers, surely they recognize the difference between the 12 VDC electrical system and the 120 VAC electrical system.... At least I'd hope that after owning 3 previous trailers, they've been exposed to that basic concept.

[McRod]

As someone else stated, you don't have an "inverter" in the rig from factory without a residential fridge. You have a "converter", which is to convert shore power and charge your batteries. Its part of your 12v system, which is why some of your "outlets", rather your 12v USB hubs, work and your standard 3 prong 110v outlets don't work. You will drain your batteries using your 12v system and not having shore power to allow the converter to recharge them...takes a day or two for them to go dead.

Your 110v outlets will only work in 2 ways. 1.) 50Amp shore power (electric line or generator) plugged into your RV. 2.) You have a sizeable aftermarket "inverter" wired into your RV that will invert 12v power from your batteries to 110v for your outlets. Most RVs do not come from factory with option #2. Even the RVs that have residential refers only have a small inverter to power the refer and not the entire RV.

[Frosty46]

This has been a problem from the word go, day one, when we brought the coach home brand new. This is a 2018 Montana High Country 362RD. The 110 outlets do not have any power to 3/4 of the coach, and none of the AC power appliances will operate. A few outlets will still supply power, but very little, like to charge a phone and that's it. None of the lights or smoke detector are able to power on. The batteries will only hold a charge from when we manually charge them, or from being hooked up to the pull vehicle. This is the only way we are able to power the jacks up/down when the system is dead. We've replaced the deep cycle batteries, replaced the inverter at a dealer, and still the issue persists. Replaced the 50amp power cord, and run it directly to our 50amp outlet without any adapters. No blown fuses and we've deduced that there has to be a short somewhere that is draining the batteries in a matter of a few days. It's been very frustrating that the dealerships (2) we've taken it to say they can't find a problem when it's on their lot, yet when we bring it home, shore power won't even charge the batteries. We've checked the kill switch in the battery compartment, checked the "store" switch in the power compartment, moved everything to both positions thinking possibly it was installed backwards. We were told that it must be the batteries, since the coach won't supply power if the batteries break the chain of power in the electronic loop. I'm not an electrician, and we have tried looking in every forum for every mention of inverter issues, and have gotten nowhere. The dealerships think we're nuts and just "inexperienced" but this is our fourth trailer over the past 15 years (1st 5th wheel) but we do have a clue of how this is supposed to work. If anyone can give me some ideas of what to try next, we're all ears. Hopefully I've been clear and didn't misspeak in any of the terminology. Husband is familiar with high voltage/amp electronic systems but not low voltage so this has been a real challenge. :banghead:

Stop what you are doing with this rig and find a licensed electrician. End of story here. Fire trap at best is my estimation.....life long electrician.

[sonofcy]

Okay, so to reply back to all of the questions:
Husband found that when the batteries don't have enough charge, the GFI trips, and all outlets that are tied to the GFI (in the main bathroom) go dead. This also happens to be all of the main appliances, outdoor kitchen, rear bathroom, fireplaces. So, that part has been figured out as to the outlet situation.

The power was tested in-line in several places, and everywhere that was tested had correct power for both proper legs, nothing was "not working".

So, when the batteries are hooked up to a charger and the GFI is reset, all outlets are working and all lights too. Everything working as it should. The minute the batteries come off the charger, and drain after a couple days, the issue presents itself again. These are brand new batteries, new inverter, new shore power cord. No idea why shore power isn't charging the batteries.

So, the two systems are connected and being plugged in will not power everything without the batteries being fully (or mostly) charged. While using the coach and plugged in, the batteries are getting depleted. If that's not supposed to be how the system should be wired, then we're really screwed... sigh.

Two things you need to understand. Batteries should only be used 50%, buy a real shunt based monitor to do that. Buy REAL deep discharge batteries, nowhere on the battery should it speak of cranking amps. The gold standard is Trojan T105. You need 2 as they are 6V and must be wired in series.

Until you fix the AC side of things, do not even install the batteries.
The GFCI has nothing to do with your batteries.
When you say inverter do you really mean converter, that's what charges the batteries. An inverter is for creating AC from DC.

Find the AC problem first.
And yes, I am a retired electrician.

[sonofcy]

According to the OP's first post, this trailer has been to 2 different dealership service departments and they've both "found nothing wrong"

AND

The OP stated in that same post, "The dealerships think we're nuts and just "inexperienced" but this is our fourth trailer over the past 15 years (1st 5th wheel) but we do have a clue of how this is supposed to work."

So, apparently there is some "experience base" that the OP has and in "comparing previous RV electrical systems" with "this RV's electrical system" there is a significant difference. I don't think it's as "simple as not being plugged into shore power" if they have had 3 other RV's, surely they already know this....

It seems "perplexing" to me... I'd suggest having a "third set of eyes" come to the location where the trailer is "not working correctly" while it's hooked up to the "problem electrical source" and let that "third set of eyes" see the actual condition of the plugs that barely have any power" and the electrical components that won't work"... Possibly there's something as simple as a "non-powered leg on the 50 amp plug" or a bad adapter plug that's in use to adapt the 50 amp power cord down to a 20 amp garage outlet ???

Something is amiss and, if the OP has had 3 previous trailers, surely they recognize the difference between the 12 VDC electrical system and the 120 VAC electrical system.... At least I'd hope that after owning 3 previous trailers, they've been exposed to that basic concept.
Excellent suggestion, there is a decent chance the home 50A is not working correctly. I am assuming the OP had a 50A service installed, if not then the problem is definitely with the home power.

[Big 417]

Excellent suggestion, there is a decent chance the home 50A is not working correctly. I am assuming the OP had a 50A service installed, if not then the problem is definitely with the home power.



Didn't they say it acts this way at RV parks also? I'm really struggling with their experience, 4th RV and not a clue what's causing this? It's frustrating not being close by and able to help.

[JRTJH]

Didn't they say it acts this way at RV parks also? I'm really struggling with their experience, 4th RV and not a clue what's causing this? It's frustrating not being close by and able to help.

If the problem is a 30:50 amp adapter plug that they use at home, and use when camping in parks without a 50 amp plug on the pedestal …

AND...

BOTH the dealerships that checked their RV just plugged the dealership power cord into their trailer … (completely bypassing the adapter, the OP's 50 amp power cord) well.... If either of those two items is the problem....

They need someone to "see and feel and smell" the actual trailer "as it sits in their parking space at home WHILE the problem is happening" … They don't need to be dragging it to a 3rd dealership to repeat the "can not duplicate" and send them home again.....

[rdnels]

I purchased a 2019 Cougar 315rls and found a problem like yours. I traced mine to the plug on the trailer where the power cord plugs in. When I removed the outlet from the trailer, the wire fell out of the outlet. I tightened the wire and it fixed the problem.

[flybouy]

As I previously stated I think they need in person help. They not only don't know how to troubleshoot I don't think they know how to operate their camper. Previous ownership means nothing. A lot of people own and drive many vehicles and are lucky if their knowledge goes further than where the gas fill is.

I've said it before but I'll repeat myself. In my opinion there are 2 basic types of dwellers. Those that own a home and maintain it and those that should rent so they can call the landlord to replace a light bulb. Considering the manufacturing process and the extremes conditions an RV can be subjected to I wouldn't recommend it for the renter types.