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View Full Version : Thickness of back fiberglass panel? Installing Haloview


RGwelch
04-21-2020, 07:20 PM
We have a 2018 Passport Elite camper trailer and I've installed a Haloview camera where the Furrion housing was. I have the Haloview adapter bracket that uses the same holes as the Furrion, but the screws aren't biting very well. I'm able to mount it, but the screws feel like they would eventually come out as we drive the trailer.

I'm looking at various options on how to secure it better. One idea was to use Nutserts. However, I don't know what the thickness of the fiberglass on the back is. It's not very thick, I was surprised how flexible it is. I'd love to get something behind the fiberglass, a piece of wood, but I don't have access to the back of the fiberglass from inside the camper. So some kind of insert or plug seems like the best solution. If I used a Nutsert or similar product, I'll need to know the thickness of the fiberglass panel. Anyone know already?

Also, any recommendations on the best way to securely fasten the camera is welcome.

JRTJH
04-21-2020, 07:52 PM
The FILON is less than 1/8" thick. Your "best bet" would be to find some "slightly larger screws" (go up one size) and apply butyl putty tape under the mount. Between the screws and the butyl putty, it will stay in place as long as you're not using it as a handle to climb on the roof or as a "tie down point" to keep your bikes from bouncing.

RGwelch
04-21-2020, 08:29 PM
The FILON is less than 1/8" thick. Your "best bet" would be to find some "slightly larger screws" (go up one size) and apply butyl putty tape under the mount. Between the screws and the butyl putty, it will stay in place as long as you're not using it as a handle to climb on the roof or as a "tie down point" to keep your bikes from bouncing.

Thanks, I guess you would recommend taking off the back plate of the old Furrion mount, then, to allow the putty to adhere to both the bracket and the fiberglass?

JRTJH
04-22-2020, 04:41 AM
If the new mount "fits into or is flat against" the old mount, then butyl putty will adhere to that surface just as readily as it would to the new surface (with the old mount removed)…

The location of the old mount screws would be my consideration. If the new mount will cover them completely, or use them, then I'd probably remove the old mount. On the other hand, if the new mount is smaller, the old holes would be exposed or if there is a risk of damaging anything, then I'd leave the old one in place.

flybouy
04-22-2020, 06:04 AM
To add to John's advice, DO NOT USE A CORDLESS DRILL TO DRIVE THE SCREWS IN. On thin material such as the FILON on the outside or the paneling on the inside it's very easy to over torque the screw. Only use a hand screwdriver and don't go Neanderthal on it

RGwelch
04-22-2020, 08:35 AM
To add to John's advice, DO NOT USE A CORDLESS DRILL TO DRIVE THE SCREWS IN. On thin material such as the FILON on the outside or the paneling on the inside it's very easy to over torque the screw. Only use a hand screwdriver and don't go Neanderthal on it

Yeah, I didn't use a drill. Only pulled the screws out with my #2 srewdriver and put them back in gently because I was aware of possibly stripping the screw holes. Even with my precaution they were stripped, all 4 of the holes. I'm thinking the factory used a drill to screw them in (up) originally, so they came pre-stripped from the factory. None of them had any grip, really.

If the new mount "fits into or is flat against" the old mount, then butyl putty will adhere to that surface just as readily as it would to the new surface (with the old mount removed)…

The location of the old mount screws would be my consideration. If the new mount will cover them completely, or use them, then I'd probably remove the old mount. On the other hand, if the new mount is smaller, the old holes would be exposed or if there is a risk of damaging anything, then I'd leave the old one in place.

I don't know if the original Furrion mount backplate is attached to the FILON other than the screws holding it, which is why I figured attaching the Halonview plate directly to the panel with the butyl tape would be best. I guess I could use the putty on both, but that seems less secure, not more. The Haloview should cover the holes, we'll see. I ordered some tape, didn't want to go running around town trying different stores to see who had some, so I'll wait for the mailman to bring it to me. I should have some screws somewhere.

I was surprised how much that FILON flexes, it is really thin. I guess that's great for weight, but not going to hold up to a serious wind I would think. We do get hurricaines in the Summer, I'm wondering if I should at least back the trailer up with some trees to the back side if one's coming as a wind break? The other 3 sides seem to have thicker skin, so to speak.

flybouy
04-22-2020, 09:54 AM
Typically the side walls are a "sandwich" construction where it's all glued together as a single unit. The rear wall (if it's FIL:ON and not a fiberglass cap) is not built that way. The rear wall is typically a hollow wall with fiberglass insulation. The wall is "hung" from the top and secured around the perimeter. I believe that's done so the trailer wiring can be fished thru for the exterior lights and typically an outlet in that wall inside.

RGwelch
04-22-2020, 02:59 PM
Typically the side walls are a "sandwich" construction where it's all glued together as a single unit. The rear wall (if it's FIL:ON and not a fiberglass cap) is not built that way. The rear wall is typically a hollow wall with fiberglass insulation. The wall is "hung" from the top and secured around the perimeter. I believe that's done so the trailer wiring can be fished thru for the exterior lights and typically an outlet in that wall inside.

Ok, that makes sense. So there is a structural wall behind it, with a space for wiring & plumbing. The shower is on that wall, so that is logical.

flybouy
04-22-2020, 03:23 PM
Ok, that makes sense. So there is a structural wall behind it, with a space for wiring & plumbing. The shower is on that wall, so that is logical.

I should have added that the rear window and ladder if so equipped also tie the rear outside surface to the studs or in the window tie it to the interior via the frame. When the sun hits those walls constructed that way they will "buckle" and "oil can" as the FILON expands in the the areas not tied to the studs or window.

RGwelch
04-22-2020, 04:28 PM
I should have added that the rear window and ladder if so equipped also tie the rear outside surface to the studs or in the window tie it to the interior via the frame. When the sun hits those walls constructed that way they will "buckle" and "oil can" as the FILON expands in the the areas not tied to the studs or window.

Interesting, mine has neither, so I guess I won't see anything like that. All that's on mine, aside from decals, is the lights and license plate holder...and my camera now.

RGwelch
04-27-2020, 08:35 PM
So I was able to get the putty tape and screws together and tackled the job today. When I pulled the old Furrion backplate off, I could see that the FILON was indeed about 1/8"+ thick. I also discovered the hole was very large where the electric wire was coming out. I thought about what to do here, and realized I had some Gorilla Waterproof Patch & Seal tape, so that seemed a good solution. I just cut a slit to run the wire through. I then mounted the camera bracket with the putty and the slightly larger SS screws seemed to secure it down pretty well.

After all this was done, I was reviewing what I got and realized the putty tape is not Butyl. I was searching online and found it as an RV item on walmart.com, and just assumed it was Butyl. But I saw the invoice and realized it didn't say Butyl. It seems to hold, and I guess the big difference is the putty will harden over time, rather than remain flexible. I don't think leakage is going to be an issue, so I'm guessing this will be ok? Or should I look to take it down and replace the putty with real Butyl? I'd hate to take the screws out, as I'd probably not be able to get them to secure again, and I don't think this bracket will allow me to use bigger screws.

Grace
04-28-2020, 03:33 AM
Hey Flybouy, The oil can reference is telling your age!!

flybouy
04-28-2020, 04:16 AM
Hey Flybouy, The oil can reference is telling your age!!

Turned 66 a month and a day ago. That's in earth years, some days it feels like 166 and some days I think I'm 16 but my body reminds me I'm 66 and well used!:lol:

I had an Uncle that owned a car repair business and his mantra was "it's the miles not the age!" Guess I'm a "high mileage" unit.:banghead:

travelin texans
04-28-2020, 07:49 AM
Turned 66 a month and a day ago. That's in earth years, some days it feels like 166 and some days I think I'm 16 but my body reminds me I'm 66 and well used!:lol:

I had an Uncle that owned a car repair business and his mantra was "it's the miles not the age!" Guess I'm a "high mileage" unit.:banghead:

Almost a year older than you & BOY do I resemble those remarks!!!!

RGwelch
04-28-2020, 11:37 AM
I just turned 57 this month. Already feel like my mind is writing checks my body can't cash!


Anyone think the putty tape is going to be a problem with this application if it's not Butyl?

JRTJH
04-28-2020, 12:37 PM
You should be OK with the clay putty tape. It will eventually dry out, crack and MAY (not will) if the cracks "line up the wrong way" lead to a water path to the inside 'too big hole that Keystone cut"...

Will you have problems from using clay putty ? Likely not,

Can you have problems from using clay putty ? It's possible, so like when using butyl putty tape, watch the camera mount and inspect it with your roof, clearance lights and all the other "screwed on things that can develop a leak, and if you see any evidence that things might be "wonky" then reseal it at that time. Otherwise, if you see no evidence of any water intrusion, enjoy RVing and keep doing the inspections on a regular basis.

RGwelch
04-28-2020, 02:07 PM
You should be OK with the clay putty tape. It will eventually dry out, crack and MAY (not will) if the cracks "line up the wrong way" lead to a water path to the inside 'too big hole that Keystone cut"...

Will you have problems from using clay putty ? Likely not,

Can you have problems from using clay putty ? It's possible, so like when using butyl putty tape, watch the camera mount and inspect it with your roof, clearance lights and all the other "screwed on things that can develop a leak, and if you see any evidence that things might be "wonky" then reseal it at that time. Otherwise, if you see no evidence of any water intrusion, enjoy RVing and keep doing the inspections on a regular basis.

Thanks, the clay putty is just holding the camera bracket to the camper shell. I used the Gorilla Waterproof Tape for the "too big" hole. I can replace the tape if needed. The putty is sealing the screw holes I guess. Everything is sealed with caulked too. I'll just keep an eye on it. Fix it when needed. For now, I think it's all ok. I'll revisit the whole setup down the road and see if I can come up with an even better solution later, now that I know better what I'm dealing with.