2011 19 FBPR Bullet Premiere roof issue

[Pjw73nh]

Started my annual maintenance on my 2011 19' FBPR Keystone Bullet Premiere TT. While up on the roof sealing some questionable areas with self-leveling caulk, I found an 18" or so spot on the drivers side, above the slide where the underlayment material (or perhaps some kind of flashing) that wraps over the edge to the roof has "lifted". As it rounds over the edge of the side to the top, it has pulled the roofing material away from the underlayment. If I press down (as seen in the video) there appears to be solid material underneath the lifted area.

Pic and vid here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/65DtUXJQtpdcQQLw7


What is the best way to repair this? I was thinking perhaps a row of 4-6 short, stainless screws with either rubber washers, or stainless fender washers (or maybe both) then either topped with self leveling caulk, or perhaps a 4" x 24" strip of Eternabond roof repair material over the row of screws.

Being a Keystone forum, I was hoping someone here would know for certain what is under this roof area. I don't want to put holes in the material without KNOWING I'll anchor it to something solid.


Any thoughts, much appreciated. Thanks.

[CampNBrew2]

Following, as my Premier roof is doing the same.
I am unsure how that detail is constructed. -If there is something underneath that this curved piece is glued to and it came up, we'd have to take off the roof membrane securing strip and get underneath to reglue it. A topside screw repair would have to get into the flimsy metal trusses.

[Logan X]

I’m not sure I would do anything if it hasn’t pierced the roof membrane. I might jus keep an eye on it to make sure the roof membrane stays intact.

If it were to pierce the membrane I would probably take that opportunity to repair it under the membrane rather than try to put screws or anything through the membrane.

[Keystoned]

Can you work it back towards the edge before screwing it down? I had a piece like that move once, which affected the slide seal. Not sure what yours does though...

[Pjw73nh]

Thanks for the replies folks.

Camp, I guess I don't feel so bad now that my misery has company. ;-) Is yours doing it in the same place (on the roof at the rear end of the slide-out)?

Also, you mention the flimsy metal trusses. I am not sure if mine (2011) has metal or wooden. I seem to remember when I pulled the center vent out to install my Fantastic Fan back in 2011, I only saw wooden trusses. But then again, I was also told (before purchasing it) by the sales-folks that the roof is a "walk-able" roof. I don't know about yours, but mine is DEFINITELY not walk-able. I have to use two pieces of plywood on the roof when I have to do work up there.

Logan, I am of the same thinking. I don't want to pierce the integrity of the roof if I don't have to. I am pretty sure I do. Further, it hasn't perforated yet, but if you look close at the very beginning of the video, in the lower left of the frame, you can see what looks like to be a sharp corner of (I presume aluminum flashing) underneath the rubber just about to poke through the membrane. So I think it's just a matter of time.

Key, It's not near the slide seal (that I can see) and it certainly isn't movable. It "feels" and "looks" like an 18" piece of flashing where one end/side just "released" from whatever was holding it.

[Keystoned]

My point was that I doubt it was built that way so it must have migrated like mine did, regardless of slide or not. I had to migrate it back into place before screwing it down

[Pjw73nh]

Oh. I guess I misunderstood. When the Wx breaks, I'll climb up and have another look. Thanks.

[JRTJH]

Not much happens to "only one RV"..

This problem, loose or damaged "transition molding" happens occasionally. So, no you're not the only one that's ever had it happen.

Here's a thread from several years ago dealing with the same thing: https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29205

[Pjw73nh]

John, Thanks. Those drawings are a GREAT reference. Where the back end of loose flashing piece looks like it's about to poke through the EPDM, I think I may try and fasten it down with a couple short screws and stainless fender washers, then overlay it with some 4" Eternabond.

A couple of sort-of related questions if I may.

1. Do you know how I can determine what the decking material is on my 2011? It "feels" like very thin lauan. It flexes quite a bit. And if I'm not careful where I kneel/step, I can feel it "give" and "stress. I use two thin plywood pieces when up there working.

2. Some folks recommend running a strip of Eternabond over the width of the front fiberglass cap seam, and also the width of the rear wall seam. I've been touching them up annually with C-10. I wouldn't mind taking a break from that chore. Any thoughts?

Thanks for all the help.

[JRTJH]

To determine what the roof decking is on your trailer, pull the trim molding off of the inside bathroom roof vent. There are 4 screws holding the "big plastic flashing" in place. Pull that down, you'll see the framing for the roof vent. There will be 4 diagonal "TPO flaps" where the factory cut the roof membrane to install the vent/fan. Pull the staples from one flap, you should be able to lift it and see exactly what's stapled to the top of the rafter. My guess is that you'll find 1/4" OSB.

As for securing the corner of the roof/sidewall flashing, I'd go ahead and secure that corner with a countersunk SS screw and an appropriately sized THIN fender washer (so the screw head is as flush as you can get it). Once you're satisfied that the flashing is secured to the roof decking, clean the entire surface with 409 or Fantastic cleaner, follow that with an alcohol wipedown, let that dry for a few minutes, then apply a 4" strip of EternaBond tape, centered on the screws. Roll that to properly secure it to the TPO membrane, then follow that with a "liberal 2" wide bead of DICOR self leveling sealant (1" overlapping the EternaBond and 1" overlapping the TPO. Apply the DICOR to all 4 edges of the EternaBond.

That should give you a "PERMANENT" repair. Don't even think about pulling it up again, so be sure your repair is "what you want" before applying the EternaBond. If you're concerned that the "rest of the flashing might move around and wear on the TPO membrane, I'd go ahead and secure it using the same SS countersunk screws and fender washers. If there's any concern with the flashing cutting the TPO at a later time, I'd fix it now since there's little/no chance you can pull up the Eternabond once it's sealed to the TPO and then sealed with the DICOR around the edges.

As for the front cap/roof seam. I don't like to use EternaBond there. It's too "permanent" and there's too much risk that a screw/staple will pull out and you'll need to access that aluminum molding strip. I prefer to secure all the screws on the molding strip, clean everything (as above) and then apply DICOR self leveling sealant to the entire cap/roof seam, completely covering the aluminum molding strip and screws and overlapping the front cap and TPO roofing at least 1" beyond the molding strip.

[Pjw73nh]

John, Thanks. Absolutely sound advice. Just ordered my Eternabond.

[JRTJH]

Use EternaBond (by brand name)… Some "off the wall knockoffs" will dissolve the TPO or cause it to become a sticky, gooey mess... Much (maybe all) of the "roof tape" at Lowe's is not compatible with TPO. This is, IMHO, one place where not using a "generic product" pays dividends.

[Pjw73nh]

JRTJH,

<<<Use EternaBond (by brand name)… >>>

I wouldn't think of using anything else. It's reputation speaks for itself. Thanks.

[flybouy]

:lol:Yup, Eaternabond's reputation has definitely "stuck" with them over the years.

[Pjw73nh]

UPDATE:

Yesterday I put the 4 stainless washers and 3/4" screws in. Seemed to do ok as far as sucking the piece back down. It's been pushing up for so long that the EPDM has stretched. I wonder if it will shrink back.

I had a little trouble with the second from the left screw. It broke off flush twice. I suspect I hit a truss. I didn't have time to put the Eternabond on. So I covered the 5 areas with Dyco C-10 self leveling sealer. I'll do the Eternabond on the next warm day.

I purchased the Eternabond from Amazon. I hope it's not a knock off. I've included a picture. The pen is shown for scale.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AYPCJ9G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The listing said " ...one 4" x 20' roll of authentic EternaBond tape. This product is cut from a master roll of 50 feet and repackaged to provide you with an economical solution for your project in a length not available from the manufacturer."

Thanks.

[Logan X]

I’ve never heard of Dyco C 10 so I googled it. According to the description on the Amazon page, it says it’s not compatible with EPDM roofing. One of the reviews said it destroyed his RV roof.

https://www.amazon.com/Dyco-Paints-C-10-Leveling-White/dp/B00BGPMG3C

Are you sure you want that stuff on your roof?

[Pjw73nh]

Well... That kinda sucks !!!. (No, not shooting the messenger).

I purchased this from the dealer I bought the trailer from (Brand new) at the time of delivery. I mentioned I was going to be installing a Fantastic fan, and I asked them what sealant I should use. He brought this out to me. Maybe my roof isn't EPDM ? It sure looks and feels like it is. I've been using it for horizontal roof "touch ups" for the last 9 years. I've noticed no adverse affects. YET !!!.

I wonder why it's not recommended? I am going to try and contact them. But for now I'm not going to use it.

I hope the Eternabond I bought is OK.

Thanks for letting me know.

[sourdough]

Well... That kinda sucks !!!. (No, not shooting the messenger).

I purchased this from the dealer I bought the trailer from (Brand new) at the time of delivery. I mentioned I was going to be installing a Fantastic fan, and I asked them what sealant I should use. He brought this out to me. Maybe my roof isn't EPDM ? It sure looks and feels like it is. I've been using it for horizontal roof "touch ups" for the last 9 years. I've noticed no adverse affects. YET !!!.

I wonder why it's not recommended? I am going to try and contact them. But for now I'm not going to use it.

I hope the Eternabond I bought is OK.

Thanks for letting me know.


If EPDM it will be black with a colored surface (white?). TPO will not have the black but either the same color or a "fuzzy" feeling back.

[Pjw73nh]

Thanks. My outer surface is white. I don't know where I can see the underside of the white. Any suggestions where to look? I also know when I wash it, I get a fair amount of "whitish" color in the water that rinses off. Oxidation maybe?

[sourdough]

If it's oxidizing like that it is probably EPDM. Pull off the inside cover of a vent and look at the roofing material that is flapped over inside. You may have to remove a staple but I've never had to, just sort of pick up the side of it and you can tell right away.

[JRTJH]

Thanks. My outer surface is white. I don't know where I can see the underside of the white. Any suggestions where to look? I also know when I wash it, I get a fair amount of "whitish" color in the water that rinses off. Oxidation maybe?

Go to your bathroom roof vent, pull the 4 screws holding the plastic garnish ring and you'll see the roof membrane cut diagonally (so they could install the vent). It will be stapled to the vent framing. Pull one of the flaps and look at the back. If the flap is white on top/black on bottom, it's EPDM. If it's white all the way through or if it's white with a "flannel/fuzzy backing" it's TPO....

While you're at it, if you're curious about what the roof decking is, you can also see the thickness/material used for the roof decking by pulling that flap "all the way up. The "top layer" that you'll see is the "roof decking".. Typically, it'll be either 1/4" or 3/8" OSB. If it's 3/8", it's considered "walkable" if it's 1/4", it's considered "not walkable" although many people still walk on them "carefully" or when using blocks of Styrofoam or sheets of plywood with carpet to prevent cutting the TPO membrane. The plywood/Styrofoam will spread your body weight over a larger area to prevent "crashing through" ..

I'd suggest, if you go far enough to check the decking thickness, also use a good flashlight and do some "peeking and snooping" in any holes you might see. That will give you some "generalized ideas" on things like insulation thickness, type of air conditioning ductwork, where electrical runs are located, type of roof rafters, and loads of other "frightful things"....

[Pjw73nh]

Logan,

I just heard back from Dyco. It seems the datasheet on the site is old (I let them know).

This is what I got back from my email:

I sent him back pics of the actual tube. He said the lot number is on the box that the tubes came in (I don't have it). But he said he is 99% sure I'm good.

I must be, as I haven't seen or experienced anything adverse in several years.

I feel better.

[Logan X]

Logan,

I just heard back from Dyco. It seems the datasheet on the site is old (I let them know).

This is what I got back from my email:

I sent him back pics of the actual tube. He said the lot number is on the box that the tubes came in (I don't have it). But he said he is 99% sure I'm good.

I must be, as I haven't seen or experienced anything adverse in several years.

I feel better.

That’s good news!

[sonofcy]

Started my annual maintenance on my 2011 19' FBPR Keystone Bullet Premiere TT. While up on the roof sealing some questionable areas with self-leveling caulk, I found an 18" or so spot on the drivers side, above the slide where the underlayment material (or perhaps some kind of flashing) that wraps over the edge to the roof has "lifted". As it rounds over the edge of the side to the top, it has pulled the roofing material away from the underlayment. If I press down (as seen in the video) there appears to be solid material underneath the lifted area.

Pic and vid here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/65DtUXJQtpdcQQLw7


What is the best way to repair this? I was thinking perhaps a row of 4-6 short, stainless screws with either rubber washers, or stainless fender washers (or maybe both) then either topped with self leveling caulk, or perhaps a 4" x 24" strip of Eternabond roof repair material over the row of screws.

Being a Keystone forum, I was hoping someone here would know for certain what is under this roof area. I don't want to put holes in the material without KNOWING I'll anchor it to something solid.


Any thoughts, much appreciated. Thanks.
If it was mine I would cut an opening flap (open end down wind) big enough to expose everything underneath that is affected. I would be surprised if you don't have water penetrating somewhere and that has caused the roof to delaminate. Once you find and fix the leak, then I would use epoxy to reseal the laminations then eternabond the flap.