2018 Keystone Passport 2810bh top bunk falling off wall

[Booch]

Noticed some sagging in the top bunk when I went to check on the RV a few weeks ago. Pulled the mattress and sheet off and wow, it's basically falling off the outside wall. Lots of discoloration, and split wood, and looks like water damage.

The window was shut, it's actually never been opened that I know of, as my family is all about the A/C. And even with the 300lb limit, there hasn't been anyone up there over 200lbs, because I don't think it'd hold 200lbs by the looks of the construction.

There's a 3 year structural warranty, but it's being called damage and not covered. Of course it's damage, but I don't really think it's my fault.

Anyone else had to fight this battle with the dealer/manufacturer?

[flybouy]

Water damage is just that "damage" and not a structural defect. You need to find the leak (most likely the roof) and seal it properly and then repair the damage.

[Booch]

Water damage is just that "damage" and not a structural defect. You need to find the leak (most likely the roof) and seal it properly and then repair the damage.

So the leak is not considered a structural defect on a 2 year old RV?

[travelin texans]

So the leak is not considered a structural defect on a 2 year old RV?

Keystone & your dealer will probably, actually definitely, tell you it was lack of roof maintenance by you or whomever does your periodic maintenance thereby denying all claims. If you pay someone to do your roof maintenance then you need to contact them for roof repairs & water damage.

[flybouy]

So the leak is not considered a structural defect on a 2 year old RV?

No it is not. Read the warranty that came with your unit or go to Keystone web site and read it. There you will find the maintenance required by the owner for the roof. If the factory failed to staple the roof on and it fell in and leaked then you may have a claim.

Claiming a structural defect for a leaking roof that was not maintained would be like expecting Ford, GM, or FCM to replace your rotors on your truck under warranty when you let the brakes wear out and tear up the rotors.

[Logan X]

I think Keystone says the roof needs to be inspected and maintained every 90 days...

If there is also a window right there, I would take a hard look at the seal around the window.

[Booch]

I think Keystone says the roof needs to be inspected and maintained every 90 days...


I hope you are kidding, but based on my experience with this one (which is my 3rd TT), that might be true. I had a list of 28 things for them to fix at my 1 year check-in. 3 of the 4 compartments leaked. I'm barely into year 2 now, and do inspect it regularly and nothing (especially seams and joints) looks in need of repair.

But, I guess it is what it is. That 3yr structural warranty isn't much beyond marketing. So, onto the fix. It's a wood bed frame, no big deal. But, what's in the walls? Are they wood studs that I'll find with a stud-finder? Metal? Any advice so I don't make things worse would be appreciated.

[JRTJH]

I hope you are kidding, ....

Here's a copy/paste from the Keystone Owner's Manual. I bolded the sentence pertaining to frequency of roof inspections so it's easier to spot.

"Roof Seams and/or Joints Roof sealants will deteriorate which can lead to leaks. Deterioration can be accelerated in heavy sun, changes in climates (expansion/contraction with aggressive temperature change), and cold climates. Once the RV leaves our manufacturing facilities, we can no longer maintain the sealants, this becomes your responsibility. Take this seriously because it can help prevent a very frustrating situation that can be expensive to remedy (damage from water leaks). Inspect the roof at least every 90 days, paying close attention to all seams and/or joints and attachments where sealant is used. Look for cracks, shrinkage and/or gaps/voids in the sealants. These must be carefully cleaned and resealed. It is necessary to use the same sealant as originally installed if touching up cracks, shrinkage and gaps/ voids. There is no way to know if 2 different brands of sealant will seal to each other. DO NOT use any type of silicone product on the rubber roof material."

[Logan X]

...Are they wood studs that I'll find with a stud-finder? Metal? Any advice so I don't make things worse would be appreciated.

The studs are usually easy to find. The walls are thin so you can press on them and feel where the studs are.

[smiles5160]

Just some thoughts here,

Every 90 days? Really? What is the cost? TCO?

What if the trailer is covered for the winter or for 6 months a year. ?
What if the leak is not on a roof seal?
What if every screw in the trim moulding is rusty on a 4 year old trailer?
What if the trim design is bad out of the factory and is leaking at day one?
What if the roof seal that is not on roof sealant is not complete out of the factory?
What is Keystone extends the aluminum trim up the vertical rear corner of the coach and folds in onto the roof and that leaks?

I have a list for my 4 yr old Keystone I just finished fixing. New bearings, roof repair, cabinet repair, roof re-seal, sagging cable slide. Some normal yearly stuff, some stuff that should never fail. This is the 2000's.

I am spinning up all the videos of the repair and will post them here.

The quick summary. Keystone screwed up the roof design, the wrapped the aluminum over the roof screwed in down and covered it with trim vinyl. They put a touch of silicone on that part, but, it was not a visible joint the receives Roof Sealant. Which means it was not touched in the regular roof maintenance. I HAD TO REBUILD THE WHOLE REAR CORNER!!!!!!! The wood part of the roof corner was basically black powder, which means the leak was DAY 1.

I stared checking screw behind the vinyl trim around the coach, found some loose, found nearly all rusted on the threads. These are not “Sealed” joints, just crappy parts.

The real problem I have is, Keystone, is not responsible, and will take no responsibility even when their design is the issue.

I am building the report on 4 years of my 2016 RETWE and the issue I have seen. Above is a touch of the opinion. The report is data specific. It includes: what I found, the ages, mileage, photos, videos and locations.

Stay tuned

[travelin texans]

Just some thoughts here,

Every 90 days? Really? What is the cost? TCO?

What if the trailer is covered for the winter or for 6 months a year. ?
What if the leak is not on a roof seal?
What if every screw in the trim moulding is rusty on a 4 year old trailer?
What if the trim design is bad out of the factory and is leaking at day one?
What if the roof seal that is not on roof sealant is not complete out of the factory?
What is Keystone extends the aluminum trim up the vertical rear corner of the coach and folds in onto the roof and that leaks?

I have a list for my 4 yr old Keystone I just finished fixing. New bearings, roof repair, cabinet repair, roof re-seal, sagging cable slide. Some normal yearly stuff, some stuff that should never fail. This is the 2000's.

I am spinning up all the videos of the repair and will post them here.

The quick summary. Keystone screwed up the roof design, the wrapped the aluminum over the roof screwed in down and covered it with trim vinyl. They put a touch of silicone on that part, but, it was not a visible joint the receives Roof Sealant. Which means it was not touched in the regular roof maintenance. I HAD TO REBUILD THE WHOLE REAR CORNER!!!!!!! The wood part of the roof corner was basically black powder, which means the leak was DAY 1.

I stared checking screw behind the vinyl trim around the coach, found some loose, found nearly all rusted on the threads. These are not “Sealed” joints, just crappy parts.

The real problem I have is, Keystone, is not responsible, and will take no responsibility even when their design is the issue.

I am building the report on 4 years of my 2016 RETWE and the issue I have seen. Above is a touch of the opinion. The report is data specific. It includes: what I found, the ages, mileage, photos, videos and locations.

Stay tuned

KEYSTONE!
First off, NO ONE from Keystone is reading/responding to any post on here, see disclaimer at the bottom of the page.
Second most of these issues are not new to any of us that have rved for lots of years regardless of make, model, brand or price of RV.
Fortunately for you & a good many of us we are physically able & mechanically skilled enough to do it ourselves.
Unfortunately a good many of the younger RV buyers don't know which end of a screwdriver to hold & have no idea what they're getting into. If it doesn't have a keyboard or handheld controller they're lost.
Posting your issues with pictures of the fixes will definitely be beneficial to lots of folks. Thanks!

[Booch]

Well after checking my roof seams and caulk, checking all the 'every 90 days stuff' the manual says, rebuilding the bunk, I found out where the leaks are. They are around the windows. None of them have caulk. We had water on the floor below every window after a downpour this weekend.

Doors have caulk, compartment doors have caulk, vents have caulk, lights have caulk, connection boxes have caulk.. why do the windows not have caulk? Did they forget this (wouldn't surprise me), or is it by design?

[travelin texans]

Most all you've mentioned should have butyl tape, looks like putty, as a sealant under the flanges. Because there's not a thick bead of caulk visible around each doesn't mean they're not sealed. Not saying the factory didn't/couldn't make a mistake, but further inspection is needed before saying they ARE NOT sealed & if not remove the item & use the butyl tape, don't smear silicone all around the place.

[JRTJH]

Brooch,

If your windows are "frameless" there is a "closed cell foam tape" applied to the windows by the window manufacturer and no further seal is applied at the factory. If your windows have frames on the outside flange, then the factory applies a layer of clay or butyl putty tape (about 1/8" thick and 3/4" wide) around the perimeter before installing the windows.

On some trailer brands (not every brand produced by Keystone) there is also a ProFlex or ProSeal bead applied at the top of each window frame. That does not occur with every trailer brand, likely only the more expensive brands, but I've seen it on Hideouts as well as on Alpines, so I don't know what the "factory rules" are concerning which trailers get extra sealant above the windows.

The "missing sealant on your windows" may not be a defect, rather a "design feature" of the type window or a assembly line process, not a "missed step"...

Road vibrations can loosen the flange screws, allowing the window to shift in the opening, causing a leak. If you look at the inside perimeter of your windows, you'll find a black aluminum flange with multiple screws in it. Check them for looseness and if loose, retighten the screws. Take care to tighten them in a "opposite side stepped process" rather than just going around the perimeter with a screwdriver. If you don't tighten them equally and in a stepped sequence, you may deform the ring and permanently damage the window by twisting it out of shape.....